Le mont saint michel castle. Mont Saint Michel

25.10.2021

About the castle

Castle Mont Saint-Michel (fr. Mont Saint Michel, Mount St. Michael) will easily remind you of a castle from a fairy tale. At first glance, it's impossible not to fall in love. Quite small from afar, but majestic, the castle-fortress is located on a small rocky island on the Kusnon River, at an altitude of about 80 meters above sea level. This miracle of architecture is located in such a way that Brittany and Normandy are still arguing who owns it? At one time, this castle was an abbey, to which pilgrims flocked from all over Medieval Europe, trying to find their "heaven on earth." More than one king and more than one vassal fought for this castle - abbey. It withstood a 30-year siege by the British during the Hundred Years' War. Having survived, not a single internecine war, the castle has retained its majesty and beauty. Here you can see the architecture of the "flaming Gothic", intricately intertwined with the Romanesque style. The architecture of the castle is characterized by the simultaneous erection of monastic services on different levels. The largest building was erected on three levels. The castle was built for more than one century. Everything that can be seen today: the abbey, gates, towers, museums were built during the XI-XV centuries. One of the features of the Mont Saint-Michel castle is associated with nature and the place where it is located. These are the ebbs and flows during the autumn-spring equinox. During this period, water arrives at an amazing speed and rises to the very walls of the castle city. During this period, the castle becomes an island. A long dam connects the castle and the mainland.

After Mont Saint-Michel fell into disrepair as a place of pilgrimage, it was a prison for a long time. And only in 1963, the castle passes into the possession of the state and becomes an architectural monument. In 1892-1897, the architect Victor Pedigran rebuilt the complex, which was in considerable disrepair. So a neo-Romanesque bell tower with a neo-Gothic spire appears in the castle. A gilded figurine of the Archangel Michael is erected on the spire of the bell tower. At the moment, the castle of Mont Saint-Michel is not so much the castle itself, as a whole complex of buildings, including: the Abbey, the Miracle complex, a huge number of gates and towers. If we talk about Mont Saint-Michel as a sight of France, then this is a real tourist Mecca. Ahead, Mont Saint-Michel in attendance, only the Eiffel Tower and Versailles.

History of Mont Saint-Michel

According to legend, the castle of Mont Saint-Michel, then still an abbey, was founded by order of Archbishop Aubert in the distant 709. Archangel Michael appeared to the archbishop three times in a dream and ordered to build a castle on a rock that rises above the sea. But the lazy archbishop could not understand everything, what does the angel want from him? Until the archangel Michael had to flick the elder on the forehead with his “flaming finger”, and burn a hole in his cassock with his sword. After such evidence, Aubert, according to the legend, began construction.

The first stone church on the island was erected by the Normans, then there was a Benedictine monastery. The castle-monastery gained momentum and gradually became a popular destination for pilgrims. In 1066, the then abbot of the monastery supported William the Conqueror and gave him money to build ships. After the conquest of England, William endows the monastery with extensive possessions. In the 12th century, Abbé Roger erected a stone tower on the northern slope. Today there are the Knight's Hall and the Refectory. The architecture of the refectory is similar to the Romanesque naves, it still has excellent acoustics.

Even the kings of France and England come as pilgrims to the abbey of Mont Saint-Michel. During the capture of Normandy by King Philippe-Augustus of France, the abbey was badly damaged. In atonement, the king donates money to the castle for construction. Thus, by the end of 1228, the Miracle complex was completed at the Château de Mont-Saint-Michel. The complex of buildings is made in the Gothic style, and Victor Hugo called the "Miracle" - the most beautiful wall in Europe.

During the Hundred Years' War, the castle of Mont Saint-Michel is one of the strongest strongholds of the kings of France. Only 119 knights defended the fortress to the last drop of blood. The British were never able to conquer this small castle-fortress. For 30 years they besieged it, but they got away with nothing. On the way of retreat, the city behind the fortress was completely destroyed.

But Mont Saint-Michel revived, and by the middle of the 15th century, it was again the main place for pilgrims. In 1470, King Louis XI establishes here one of the main state awards of France - the Order of St. Michael. This order was founded in honor of the invincible defenders of the fortress. But gradually, due to internecine, religious wars, the monastery gradually falls into decay. From the time of the French Revolution to the Second Empire, it is no longer a castle, it is a prison. At one time, up to 300 prisoners were kept here at the same time. The castle of Mont Saint-Michel was popularly nicknamed the "Provincial Bastille", because. it contained mainly political prisoners. Back in the time of Louis XI, stone cells were built here, in which the prisoner could neither sit nor stand, not straighten up, and his every movement, even fleeting, was accompanied by a rumble of chains.

In 1863, the prison was abolished, and restoration work began. And since 1979, the castle of Mont Saint-Michel has been a world heritage site and is protected by UNESCO.

The bastions of the castle should not be walked alone, especially on high tide days. The water rises so fast that there is a risk of not having time to reach the fortress walls. Only 2 times a year, the castle becomes an island, in one day the water level rises by 10 meters! The creator of Notre Dame Cathedral, Victor Hugo, was so taken aback by the beauty of this majestic castle that he called it a pyramid in the ocean!

Mont Saint-Michel is not easy to find on a map. This is a small island located on the northwestern coast of France, on the border of two regions - Normandy and Brittany. It is considered one of the most popular attractions in France. Now the population of the island is about three dozen inhabitants.

Despite its size and distance from Paris 285 km to the west, more than 7,000 tourists from all over the world come here every day.

From Thursday to Sunday, buses run from Paris to the island. Trip duration - about 5 hours. The cost of a round-trip ticket varies from 50 to 100 Euros depending on the season.

On weekdays, the road to the island will take longer.. To do this, you need to take the train to Rennes (Rennes) or Pontorson (Pontorson) and change to a suburban bus. The journey also takes about 5 hours. The cost is from 50 to 120 Euro for a one-way combined ticket.

You can also get to the island by car - on the A13 toll motorway, the trip will take about 4 hours. The fare on the motorway is about 15 Euros..

For those who like to travel, there is a free highway N10, which is shorter in mileage than the motorway, but longer in time: the road passes through small towns with narrow streets and speed limits. However, this option will allow you to explore the French hinterland in all its glory..

What to see?

An impressive part of the island, about 55,000 square meters, is reserved for the Benedictine abbey of Saint-Michel, which embodies the best example of French medieval architecture. The design of two three-story buildings of the abbey, held on a platform 80 meters long, amazes with the accuracy of the calculations of the builders of the 13th century and the uniqueness that distinguishes it from other monasteries and gives every right to call Saint-Michel an architectural miracle.

The monastery, which at various times was both a prison with the ironic name "Mount Libre" (Mont Libre), and a factory for the production of straw hats, is now again the abode of a dozen monks. The daily service in the abbey is open to everyone..

Service hours: morning - 7:00 on weekdays; 8:00 on weekends, holidays and in August. Daytime - 12:15 daily (except Mon); 11:30 on Saturdays. Evening - 18:30 daily (except Sun and Mon). You must be at the entrance 10 minutes before the start of the service.
Abbey opening hours: from May 2 to August 31: 9:00 - 18:00, last entry at 18:00. From September 1 to April 30: 9:30 - 18:00, last entry at 17:00.
The abbey is closed for visits on 1.01, 1.05, 25.12.
Cost: adults - 9 Euros, children under 18 and disabled people - free of charge.

The island and the city built on it with the abbey were named after the Archangel Michael. According to legend, he appeared three times to the Bishop of Avranches, St. Aubert, with the command to build a church on the island of Mont Saint-Michel, which at that time was still known as "Mount Tombe" because of its impregnability. Now in the chapel, standing on the outskirts of the island, the relics of St. Aubert are kept, which attract pilgrims from all over the globe to the abbey.

The year 708 is considered the year of foundation of the city of Mont-Saint-Michel. In the XIV century, due to frequent raids and attacks on the city, a wall and a suburb were built near the water border of the island. The outer ring of fortifications, protecting the city from invaders, and the inner ring, enclosing the territory of the abbey, create the atmosphere of a medieval castle.

The island is connected to the mainland by a causeway. You can enter the fortress through the Royal Gate (Porte du Roy). Together with the boulevard (Porte du Boulevard) and the outer gate (Porte de l'Avancee), they form the only entrance to the castle. Behind the main gate of the fortress begins the "Big Street" (La Grande Rue). It rises quite steeply up to the abbey, so you should not take strollers and bicycles for a walk around the city.

Cost: Free for all tourists.

This museum allows you to trace the thousand-year history of Mont Saint-Michel. In addition to the collection of paintings, sculptures and other archaeological treasures, the museum has an artfully designed exposition of prison cells.

The island was an ideal place for imprisonment, as it was difficult to escape from it: at high tide it was surrounded by water, at low tide anyone who escaped was sucked into quicksand, and the rocky walls did not allow to dig. The prison was active for a long time, but in the 19th century, thanks to the efforts of Victor Hugo and other French writers, it was closed.

Opening hours: from February to June, from September to November - 10:30 - 17:30, from July to August - 10:30 - 18:30.

The archeoscope, located on the Grande Rue, invites visitors to explore Mont Saint-Michel from an interesting angle. Spectators get a unique opportunity to become part of a magical performance that reveals the secrets of the creation and life of the island.

Opening hours: from February to June, from September to November - 9:00 - 17:30, from July to August - 9:00 - 18:30.
Cost: adults - 9 Euro; a combined ticket for all the museums of the island - 18 Euro, for children from 10 to 18 years old - 4.5 Euro; combined ticket - 9 Euro, children under 10 years old - free of charge.

Maritime Museum

The Maritime Museum is located immediately outside the Royal Gate, on Bolshaya Street. Here is a collection of ship models that will appeal to all lovers of navigation. Also in the museum you can see models of Viking dragons and European sailing ships of the medieval era. A fascinating story about the ebb and flow in the bay of Mont Saint-Michel and its influence on the historical events that took place at the foot of the island will not leave anyone indifferent.

Opening hours: from February to June, from September to November - 10:00 - 17:30, from July to August - 10:00 - 18:30.
Cost: adults - 9 Euro; a combined ticket for all the museums of the island - 18 Euro, for children from 10 to 18 years old - 4.5 Euro; combined ticket - 9 Euro, children under 10 years old - free of charge.

In 1365, the knight Bertrand du Guesclin, who served at the court of King Charles V, built this house for his young wife Tifena Ragenel before leaving for the war with Spain. Tiphena was a famous astrologer who predicted the fate of the world from the stars. The house-museum has preserved the furniture of that era, the armor of du Guesclin and the office of astrology of Tifena herself.

Opening hours: from February to June, from September to November - 9:00 - 18:00, from July to August - 9:00 - 19:00.
Cost: adults - 9 Euro; a combined ticket for all the museums of the island - 18 Euro, for children from 10 to 18 years old - 4.5 Euro; combined ticket - 9 Euro, children under 10 years old - free of charge.
Address: Rue Principale.

The scriptorial is one of the most important manuscript libraries in all of France.. More than 13,500 old books and publications dating back to the 16th - 19th centuries are collected here, incl. and the manuscripts and early editions of the abbey of Mont Saint-Michel, making Avranches one of the most significant cities with collections of historical books.

Upon entering the museum, each child is provided with a small guidebook for a fun and educational exploration of the island's history and wonders. Multimedia systems are placed throughout the museum, offering to delve into the study of the relevant theme of the exposition, and interactive games and documentaries are offered for young visitors.

Opening hours: October - December, February - March - 14:00 - 18:00 (Sun-Mon - closed), April - June, September - 10:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 18:00 (Mon - day off), July - August - 10:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 19:00 (Mon - day off)
The museum is closed throughout January, 1.05, 1.11, 25.12.
Cost: adults - 3 - 8 Euros, children under 18 years old and students, visitors with tickets to the abbey, disabled people - free of charge. 1st Sunday of the month (except public holidays) - free of charge for everyone.
Audio guide - 2 Euro.
Address: Place d'Estouteville, Avranches.

Walking tours along the coast of Mont Saint-Michel are very popular.. And the bay owes this not only to its wonderful island, but also to the strongest tides in Europe, which, according to Wikipedia, are considered the second largest in the world, after the Bay of Fundy.

At low tide, the water recedes from the island for almost 18 km, giving tourists a chance to walk along the wet sand of the coastline and enjoy the view of the castle, familiar to everyone from numerous photographs and postcards. The tide returns the water for about 20 km, surrounding the island. In the evening, with the onset of twilight, a breathtaking view opens up from the coast to the abbey and fortress of Mont Saint-Michel, illuminated by hundreds of lights.

The expositions of the eco-museum are constantly updated. Here you can get acquainted and participate in the process of extracting salt from the sea water of the bay. The permanent exhibition of the museum offers to explore the ecosystem of the bay in an interactive format. Also, visitors have the opportunity to wander around the surroundings of Mont Saint-Michel, accompanied by a guide.

Opening hours: from April to June - daily, 14:00 - 18:00, from July to September - daily, 10:00 - 18:00.
Cost: adults - 5 Euros, children from 7 to 18 years old - 2.5 Euros, family ticket (2 adults + 3 children from 7 to 18 years old) - 15 Euros.
Address: Route du Grouin du Sud, Vains.

3 km from Mont Saint-Michel is the island of Tomblen, which can be reached on foot at low tide. It served as a retreat for the monks. Built in the 12th century, the church in the name of the Virgin Mary was destroyed in the 17th century by order of Louis XIV. Now the island is an ornithological reserve.

Where to go with children?

On the way to Mont Saint-Michel there is a zoological garden with the largest population of alligators in Europe. Tourists and their little companions are offered not only to look at various types of lizards, snakes, crocodiles and turtles, but also to participate in the process of feeding some of them.

Opening hours: from 1.10 to 31.03 - daily, 14:00 - 18:00. From 1.04 to 30.09 - daily, 10:00 - 19:00.
Cost: adults - 13 Euros, children from 13 to 18 years old - 10.5 Euros, children from 3 to 12 years old - 8.5 Euros, children under 3 years old - free of charge.
Address: 62 Route du Mont Saint-Michel, Beauvoir.

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It's hard to talk about Mont Saint-Michel. This castle-abbey is rightfully called the Wonder of the West. Everything is a miracle here - a long history, amazing buildings, and the very atmosphere of an impregnable fortress located on a small rocky island. It is no coincidence that he became the prototype of the fortress of Minas Tirith in JRR Tolkien's trilogy The Lord of the Rings. However, Mont Saint-Michel is even more fantastic. For convenience, I will break my story into several parts. And today we will talk about its history and geography.

The abbey of Mont Saint-Michel is a symbolic model of medieval society. The lower tier is "those who work": artisans and merchants. The middle tier is "those who fight": knights and kings. Finally, the top tier is "those who pray": the clergy.

Mont Saint-Michel (fr. Mont Saint-Michel, normand. Mont Saint Miche- Mount St. Michael) is a rocky island 80 m high and about 950 m in circumference, located in a huge bay with an area of 40,000 square meters, open towards the English Channel. At 3 km from it lies another island - Tromblin, rising 40 m above the bay. These rocks were formed over 20 million years ago from granulite, a very dense crystalline rock. Three rivers flow into the bay - Se, Selyun and Couenon, which, at each low tide, lay new picturesque bends.

The strongest sea tides in Europe are observed here, fluctuations in the water level can reach 15 meters! Water at low tide recedes from the mainland by more than 20 kilometers, exposing the bottom - the finest quicksands of clay-limestone origin. Walking along such a bottom is quite dangerous: you can easily get stuck in swampy places. At high tides, the sea returns swiftly - according to legend, with the speed of a galloping horse. However, this is an exaggeration: the average tide speed is 62 meters per minute, which is also quite a lot and poses a danger to tourists and pilgrims.

These island-rocks are visible from afar - the coastal plain is absolutely flat. And therefore it is not surprising that people have long paid attention to them and revered them as sacred. Two French provinces, Normandy and Brittany, are vying for the right to consider the island part of their territory. Formally, Mont-Saint-Michel belongs to Normandy - the border between the provinces runs along the Couesnon River.

This is an incredible sight when two giants suddenly appear on the horizon and as you approach them, Mont Saint-Michel and Tromblain begin to grow.

The Celts once lived on the mainland. On the rock, which in those days was on land, there was a sanctuary of the Druids. However, gradually the sea advanced on land and the rocks became islands. However, over time, the reverse process began: the Gulf of Mont Saint-Michel is filled with sedimentary marine deposits. At the end of the 19th century, when a dam was built connecting the island to the mainland, this process accelerated, now only twice a year Mont Saint-Michel becomes a real island, surrounded on all sides by water.

History of Mont Saint-Michel

Founding of the monastery: Ober and St. Michael

The island was originally called Mont Tomb(fr. Mont Tombe), from Latin tumba, which means "mountain" or "grave". In the VI century. several hermit monks settled on it, who built two sanctuaries. According to a 10th century manuscript Revelatio ecclesiae sancti Michaelis, one of the nights of 708 Oberu, the bishop of the city of Avranches, the Archangel Michael appeared in a dream, who ordered to build a church on a rock. The bishop was in doubt, so the Archangel had to appear three times. And for the third time, angry for disobedience, he pierced Auber's skull with his finger. Only then did he start building. By the way, on the skull of Aubert, whose relics lie in the Avranches Basilica, you can see a round dent - a trace from the blow of the Archangel.

A chapel was built on the rock, similar to the sanctuary in the cave of Monte Gargano in southern Italy, where in 492 the Archangel Michael appeared. The chapel erected by Auber only remotely resembled an Italian grotto. Two relics were brought here from Monte Gargano: a fragment of a crimson veil thrown by the Archangel and a part of a marble slab with the imprint of his foot.

Several canon monks settled at the new sanctuary. At the same time, the cult of the Archangel Michael was strengthened throughout the empire. Soon the island became one of the most important centers of pilgrimage and became known as Mont Saint-Michel - Mount Saint Michael.

And here I would like to make a small digression and talk about the veneration of the Archangel Michael in France.

Tower and spire topped with a statue of the Archangel Michael

Cult of the Archangel Michael in France

Archangel Michael is revered as a warrior and intercessor. It is believed that he fought with Satan, who took the form of a dragon and plunged him into the abyss of waters. He protects the souls of the righteous from insidious demons on the way to Heavenly Jerusalem. According to the Old Testament, he is the protector of the people of Israel. In the last battle between Good and Evil, Archangel Michael will stand at the head of the bright host. At the Last Judgment, he will hold the scales on which the good and evil deeds of people will be weighed.

The Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire Charlemagne chose the Archangel Michael as his patron, and in 813 the celebration of St. Michael's Day was established. Under the Capetian dynasty (987-1328), the cult of St. Dionysius became widespread, but in the Valois era (1328-1589), the cult of the Archangel Michael again gained popularity. Under Charles VII, Archangel Michael becomes a national saint, the savior of France, who liberated the country from the invasion of the British. It was the words of the Archangel Michael that Joan of Arc heard:

I am Michael, patron saint of France. Get up and come to the aid of the French king.

The heroic defense of the defenders of Mont-Saint-Michel, besieged by the British, also played an important role in strengthening the cult. In 1469, Louis XI founded the monastic order of Saint Michael, and Mont Saint-Michel became its center. After the French Revolution, Archangel Michael became the emblem and symbol of the French nation.

So it is not surprising that throughout the Middle Ages and later, crowds of pilgrims flocked to Mont Saint-Michel.

Archangel Michael. A copy of the statue made by the sculptor Femier, exhibited in the La Merveille cellar

Mont Saint-Michel in the X-XV centuries: a center of pilgrimage and the Benedictines

In 933, the Cotentin, a peninsula in northwestern France, was annexed to Normandy, and Mont Saint-Michel came under the protection of the Dukes of Normandy. In 966, by order of Richard I, third Duke of Normandy, Benedictine monks from Fontenelles (now the Abbey of Saint-Vandrey in Saint-Maritime) were transferred to Mont-Saint-Michel. In their opinion, the life of the canons was not so edifying.

Life of the Benedictines

The motto of the Benedictines was the principle "Pray and work" ( ora et labora), established by the founder of the order, Saint Benedict of Nursia in 529. Benedictines take three traditional vows: obedience to the abbot, poverty and chastity, as well as a fourth, additional vow - stability, obliging them to stay in the monastery and not wander around.

Life in the community was strictly regulated: 8 hours were allotted for prayers, 8 for mental work, and another 8 hours for work. Services were held seven times a day: at dawn (matins), services of the first ( prime), third ( tierce), sixth ( sexte), ninth ( none) hours, vespers and after-vespers. In addition, Mass and Great Mass were held on the eve of holidays.

Twice a day the monks gathered for a meal that included bread, vegetables and wine. On holidays, the sick were also allowed fish, as well as poultry meat. Wine, first of all, warmed. It is not surprising that it was in the Benedictine monasteries that the strong drink Benedictine appeared, which I will talk about in more detail in one of the next posts.

At the beginning of the 11th century, 50 monks lived in Mont-Saint-Michel, a century and a half later - 60, and since then their number has never exceeded 60.

Construction in the monastery

The Benedictines dreamed that Mont Saint-Michel would become a kind of hymn to the glory of the Almighty. However, it was not possible to place a huge cathedral building on top of a cliff that could accommodate all the pilgrims. Then it was decided to build first four chapels, oriented to the cardinal points, which would become a platform for the future building. This is how the crypt of the Great Pylons appeared, facing east, in the south - the crypt of Saint-Martin, in the north - the crypt of Notre-Dame-de-Trent-Sierge (Our Lady of the Thirty Candles), in the west - the crypt of Notre-Dame-sous-Terre (Our Lady Dungeons). Notre-Dame-sous-Terre is the oldest, containing fragments of a pre-Romanesque church, possibly the first sanctuary on the mountain. In 1023, the construction of the cathedral in the Romanesque style began, completed only by 1520 in the Gothic style.

Nave of the monastery church

In 1204, Philip Augustus annexed the duchy of Normandy, which had been under English rule since 1066, to the French kingdom. Breton soldiers, speaking on the side of France, set fire to Mont Saint-Michel. Buildings to the north of the cathedral were destroyed. However, thanks to the generosity of Philip Augustus, buildings were erected in their place in just a few years (Miracle).

La Merveille is a symbolic reflection of medieval society and a symbol of the Holy Trinity: three buildings, each building has three floors, each floor has a hall with its own special meaning. However, due to lack of funds, only two of the three buildings were built. The “Western Miracle” includes the monastery courtyard-cloister as a symbol of spiritual food, the workshop of manuscripts, symbolizing mental food, and cellars, carnal food. The "Oriental Miracle" includes the monastery refectory, a hall for receiving guests and a refectory for the poor. In the third “miracle”, which was never built, the chapter hall was supposed to be located, below - the library, at the very bottom - the stable.

La Mervey, wall fragment

In the middle of the 13th - beginning of the 16th century, the complex of buildings surrounding the church from the east and south was supplemented by buildings that housed the abbot's apartments and halls for secular monastic services.

Pilgrims at Mont Saint-Michel

The Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel is the fourth pilgrimage site in the West after Jerusalem, Rome and Santiago de Compostela. History has preserved the name of the first pilgrim to Mont Saint-Michel. It was a Frank named Bernard. In 867-868, returning from a trip to Rome and Monte Gargano, he visited Mont Saint-Michel.

Since the 11th century, the number of pilgrims has increased significantly. Since that time, wonderful stories about pilgrims also appear. So, according to one of them, a young woman from Lisieux, who was in the last stages of pregnancy, was caught in the tide. In addition, she began labor pains. Anticipating an imminent death, she offered fervent prayers to the Mother of God. And a miracle happened: the water parted around her, the woman was relieved of her burden. The next morning, the fishermen found her and the baby safe and sound. Another story tells of an Italian who, without the permission of the monks, stole a stone from the abbey and fell ill afterwards. They also talk about miraculous healings after the sick drank the water in which the skull of St. Aubert was washed ...

In the XIV century, a new category of pilgrims appeared - children and teenagers. A kind of madness swept all over Europe at that time. Children ran away from home and went on the hardest journeys. They were called "shepherds" - many of them herded the flocks. The road to Mont Saint-Michel, where shelters and inns for pilgrims appeared, began to be called "paths to paradise."

The pilgrimage was dangerous. On the way, pilgrims were often robbed by robbers. Often they died of disease. Yes, and in Mont Saint-Michel itself, danger awaited them. So, in 1318, 13 pilgrims were trampled underfoot by a crowd that was breaking into the sanctuary, 18 drowned in the bay, 12 bogged down in quicksand. Norman proverb says:

Before you go to Mont Saint-Michel, make your will.

To this day, Mont Saint-Michel remains an important pilgrimage center. Pilgrims differ from ordinary tourists in that they walk, accompanied by guides, through the quicksands of the bay. Twice a year, the abbey is especially crowded: on May 8 (or the Sunday closest to this date), when the day of the appearance of the Archangel Michael in Monte Gargano is celebrated, and on September 29, on the day of the consecration of the Roman altar dedicated to the Archangel.

Low tide in the bay of Mont Saint-Michel. It was on these shifting sands that pilgrims walked

Defense of Mont Saint-Michel during the Hundred Years War

The Hundred Years' War broke out in 1337 and ended in 1453. At the turn of the XIV-XV centuries, the abbey and the village were strengthened. However, in 1420, the Abbé Jolivet abruptly left the monastery and offered his services to the English. In 1421, the altar part collapsed in the cathedral. In 1424, the sea siege of Mont-Saint-Michel began by the British, who settled on the neighboring island of Tomblaine. It continued until 1434. Thanks to the protection of the knights and high tides, the fortress-abbey remained impregnable.

Mont Saint-Michel in the XV-XVIII centuries

After the Hundred Years' War, a short period of prosperity for the abbey begins, ending, however, with a long decline. In the middle of the 15th century, abbots, previously elected by monks, were appointed by the kings. The monastery became a source of income for them. The monastic life quickly fell into decay.

In 1577, 1589 and 1591, when the Wars of Religion were raging in Europe, Protestants tried to take Mont Saint-Michel. In 1591, a hundred Protestants were massacred here under the leadership of Gabriel de Lorge, Earl of Montgomery...

Prison

The first punishment cells appeared in the abbey in the 12th century. Monks who committed serious crimes and those whom the abbot sent to court were sent here. At the end of the 15th century, by order of King Louis XI, a small part of the abbey was turned into a state prison, the "naval Bastille", as it was called. Extremely cramped cells were built, where it was impossible to stand up or lie down at full height. In addition, the prisoners were chained to the wall with a chain that rang with every movement. Huge cages with stakes sticking out inside were also built, where the person was, in fact, immobilized. As a rule, prisoners died within a year. In the period from 1666 to 1786, 153 prisoners visited this state prison.

In 1793, the revolutionaries announced the closure of the monastery and the transfer of property to the state. Mont Saint-Michel, renamed Mont-Libre (Mount of Liberty), turned into a prison that lasted until 1863. During this time, 14,000 prisoners have been here. At first they were priests and peasants, opponents of the Revolution. Then - political prisoners and criminals. The Miracle building housed a straw hat factory.

Restoration and revival of Mont Saint-Michel

Victor Hugo, who visited Mont Saint-Michel in 1863, wrote bitterly:

Toad in the reliquary. When, finally, in France will understand the sanctity of the monuments?

In the same year, the last prisoners were transferred to other prisons. However, only in 1874 Mont Saint-Michel was transferred to the administration of the "Historical Monuments", which took up the restoration of the abbey.

In 1897, the neo-Gothic tower and spire were completed (architect Victor Petigran), on top of which there is a gilded statue of the Archangel Michael (sculptor Emmanuel Fremier, 1897). Mont Saint-Michel acquired its current appearance.

At the end of the 19th century, a dam was also built that connected the island with the mainland. Unfortunately, it provoked an acceleration of the filling of the bay with sand drifts. As a result, over the past 100 years, the level of the bottom of the island has risen by 3 meters, due to which Mont Saint-Michel may lose its island position. Now a project is being implemented to build a bridge on the site of a part of the dam, the length of which will be 1 km. According to the calculations of hydrologists, such measures will contribute to the liberation of the bay from marine sediments.

Tromblain Island

Tromblain Island is located 3 km from Mont Saint-Michel. In the 11th century, two monks retired here for several years: Robert of Tromblin and Anastas the Venetian. In the 12th century, the abbot Bernard du Bec built a monastery here with a church in the name of the Virgin Mary, which became the center of the so-called "small pilgrimage" to Mont Saint-Michel. At the beginning of the 13th century, when a split occurred in the community of Mont-Saint-Michel, the abbe Jourdain was hiding here.

During the Hundred Years' War, Tromblain Island was occupied by the British, who built a fortress on it. In the 17th century, Tromblain became the property of Nicolas Fouquet, Minister of Finance at the court of Louis XIV. After Fouquet fell out of favor, the king ordered the destruction of all buildings on the island.

Since 1985, an ornithological reserve has been located on the island.

In the next post, I will continue the conversation about Mont Saint-Michel and talk about.

To be continued…

* When writing this post, materials from the guidebooks "Mont Saint-Michel" (Paris, 2006) and "Abbey Mont-Saint-Michel" were used.

About the significance of this place for the French, Victor Hugo wrote: "Mont Saint Michel is for France what the pyramids are for Egypt." Traveling with Gennady.

The border between the French provinces of Normandy and Brittany, off the coast of the English Channel, runs along the bed of the Couesnon River. Here, at the confluence of the river into the Gulf of Saint Michel, on a granite island there is a landmark place for the French - Mont St. Michel, which translates as: - Mount St. Michael.

It is difficult to talk about the island-abbey-fortress of Mont Saint Michel. The number of different events, stories and legends associated with it is huge. To mention everything and keep within a reasonable size, it seems to me, is not possible. I'm sure I'll miss something interesting or just don't know. The place is so popular that someone must have been there. Therefore, I ask you to supplement my note with stories, impressions, photographs.

The characteristic silhouette of the abbey among the low, flat coast appears on the horizon for several tens of kilometers, and we drove for about an hour until we reached the car park near it.

This castle-abbey is often rightly called the Eighth Wonder of the World. Everything is wonderful here: amazing natural phenomena, and his involvement in significant historical events for Europe, and wonderful buildings, and the very atmosphere of an impregnable fortress located on a small rocky island. Undoubtedly, Mont Saint Michel still influenced the architecture of the Castle of Sleeping Beauty in Disneyland Paris and became the prototype of the fortress of Minas Tirith in JRR Tolkien's The Lord of the Rings trilogy and in the film based on it.

During the time of the ancient Romans, Mont Saint Michel was not yet an island. The gloomy uninhabited rock was then called the Grave Hill. Perhaps the Celts used this place for their burials. The Druids came here to worship the setting sun, and the Romans subsequently preserved this ritual for a long time. According to one of the legends, Julius Caesar was secretly buried on Mogilnaya Gora - in a golden coffin, in golden sandals.

There are several versions of the origin of Mont Saint Michel. The most plausible, claims that at the beginning of the 5th century, after a strong storm in this part of the English Channel, the coastline changed. Part of the coast sank, coastal meadows and forests disappeared under water and then were covered with sand, and two rocky hills became islands. The largest among them is Mont Tomb (French for “Grave Hill”), and is now named Mont Saint Michel. The little one is named Tombelin (“Little Grave”).

According to another version, both rocks were dragged into the sea by giants - the parents of Gargantua. Grangousier, his father, as is customary among men, carried the heaviest of stones - Mont Tomb, and Gargamelle, mother of Gargantua, dragged Tombelin. But the giants got tired and threw these stones near the shore. Gargantua himself was also noted here in land management - it was through his efforts that the Couenon River appeared. How is easy to guess.

Which version to believe, everyone chooses for himself, but the fact remains - two islands rise in the Gulf of Saint Michel, and the tides in this place are among the highest in the entire oceans. Twice a year, when the solar and lunar tides add up, the height of the total tide can reach ~14 meters. Due to the low and gently sloping shores, the sea near the abbey at this time recedes / advances 15-20 kilometers, exposing the bottom - quicksands of clay-limestone origin. And so twice a day. It is easy to calculate that the speed with which sea water runs corresponds to the speed of a frisky pedestrian, and due to uneven terrain, in some places it can reach the speed of a galloping horse. Not surprisingly, in the long history of this place, not everyone managed to escape from the tide.

The next two photos were taken by me from the same place of the abbey during not the strongest ebb and flow. Here is a photo I took at high tide.

and this is when the tide began and continued to ebb ...

There are legends about the tides chasing the rider, stories about wagons disappearing without a trace along with the horses in huge quicksands, descriptions of the terrible death of travelers dragged into the wet sand. The low tide in the bay always begins somehow unexpectedly: until recently, wherever you look, a whitish-muddy sea splashed, as sand of the same color appeared everywhere, the cunning of which almost all French classics were "hypnotized" - from Hugo to Maupassant. This sand seems quite harmless until you go down to its treacherously unsteady surface, covered in puddles from recently receded water.

Unfortunately, we didn't catch the time of the highest tide, but for the sake of completeness, I will insert here a photo from the Internet - the island of Mont Saint Michel at high tide.

In the 70s of the XIX century, due to the increased number of visitors to the abbey, the island was connected to the coast by a dam. However, the dam disrupted the natural circulation of waters in the bay and it began to be covered with sand and silt to such an extent that at the end of the 20th century the island was actually full-fledged only during the highest tides twice a year. Therefore, in the early 2000s, the dam was destroyed and a bridge was built over which you can now drive to the gate of the abbey itself, but only by public transport.

The current appearance of the mountain is the result of repeated re-planning, destruction, rampant elements, fires, human delusions and exploits. This religious building also has a great secular significance. Here they not only prayed, but also fought and conspired.

The history of the abbey of Mont Saint Michel began with a chapel that was erected on a granite rock-island in 708 by the Bishop of Avranches Saint-Aubert. One of the legends says that Archangel Michael appeared in a dream to the archbishop and ordered to build a chapel on the island. The bishop thought that he was imagining and decided to wait. The archangel appeared again with the same order, but the bishop turned out to be heavy "on the rise" and again disobeyed. For the third time, the archangel literally hammered into the bishop the idea of the need to build a chapel, he punched a hole in the bishop's head, which, finally, was able to convince him to start building the church - this is how the Basilica of St. Michael appeared. It is certainly hard to believe in this, but evidence of this event has been preserved. In Avenches, where the relics of Saint Aubert are located, there is indeed a dent in his skull.

In the middle of the 10th century, Benedictine monks, with the permission of the Pope, founded an abbey here and built a monastery with the money of the Duke of Normandy. Soon the rock on the island of Mont Saint Michel became a famous place of pilgrimage, and its history was carefully traced.

In the next century, a Romanesque church with a monastery appeared on the mountain. The work of building the abbey was not easy and dragged on until the middle of the 12th century. Abbé Robert de Torigny made a huge effort and turned the island of Mont Saint Michel into a center of scientific thought. Then the priests began to play a prominent role in the political life of the region.

At the beginning of the 12th century, Abbot Roger II was building a tower on the northern slope, which now includes the Knights' Hall and the Refectory. At this time, the abbey is already one of the pilgrimage centers in Europe. The influence of the monastery is growing. The abbey receives the English and French kings, he was granted several possessions in England.

In 1204 King Philip Augustus of France captured Normandy. Guy de Tours, an ally of the French king, captured and burned the settlement near the monastery, as a result, the monastery itself was seriously damaged by fire. Philip Augustus, in order to atone for his guilt, donates a huge amount to the abbey, and also finances the construction of a structure on the northern slope, later called the Miracle. In 1128 the construction of the Miracle was completed. Until the XIV century, the architecture of the monastery did not change. Abbots, succeeding each other, gradually built up the island. In this unique place there are buildings of different styles and eras, which gives beauty to the architecture.

In 1356, the British attempted to take the monastery, but the siege was unsuccessful. In 1386, the abbot of the monastery, Pierre Roy, for security reasons, significantly strengthens the entrance to the monastery, and also builds three towers. In the future, Abbe Robber Jolivet, who replaced Roy, erected fortress walls at the foot of the monastery.
During the Hundred Years' War in 1424, the British again besieged the monastery. For ten years, suffering huge losses, they unsuccessfully tried to get beyond the walls of the castle. But the French defended the abbey. The British never managed to take the island, but they completely destroyed the town that had formed over the past centuries at the base of the monastery. In 1450, the English are defeated at the Battle of Formigny and driven out of Normandy.

But the monastery, which survived the religious wars, turned out to be defenseless before the revolutionaries, and in 1792 the troops expelled the last monks, and the territory was turned into a prison, which the people called the “provincial Bastille”.

With the advent of Napoleon III, Mont Saint Michel regains its former glory, the prison is abolished, and the monastery is declared a national treasure of France. Work is underway to restore it. The middle of the 20th century is marked by the return of the monks to the rocky island. In 1979, the abbey was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.

The island is currently inhabited. In addition to the Benedictine monks, about 70 people live on it, it even has its own city hall, police, hospital, and hotel. The inhabitants of the island mainly serve tourists.

Due to the large number of visitors in our time, travel to the island is limited. It is not possible to drive over this bridge privately. The vast majority of those who come on excursions leave their buses in the village, on the coast and drive to the gates of Mont Saint Michel on free shuttles or simply walk along the bridge. Fortunately, it’s only about a kilometer to go and all the time with a view of the castle.

Those who, like us, come on their own, by car, leave the cars even further away - in parking lots about 3 kilometers, and in the same way, they get to the gates of the monastery by shuttle.

In principle, there are one-day bus tours to Mont Saint Michel from Paris. It is possible and "disorganized" to turn around from there one day by train / bus. However, if you have already come here, it is better to stay overnight. In terms of the number of visitors, Mont Saint Michel ranks second in all of France after Paris. Up to 3.5 million tourists a year! And many of them stay in local hotels on the coast. But even outside the walls of the fortress there are several hotels, in houses of the XV-XVI centuries with a limited number of rooms. Rooms there, as a rule, need to be booked well in advance. Or be very lucky. We were lucky! At the beginning of the summer, following the best tripadvisor recommendations, we booked a place in a hotel on the coast, near the beginning of the bridge to the island, so that we could walk to the abbey. Just for the sake of order, sometimes they looked - how are things outside the walls. Literally a week before our trip, a room was vacated in one of the most famous hotels in Mont Saint Michel - Mother Poulard (La Mere Poulard.

The list of eminent guests of this hotel with only 27 rooms is very impressive. Stopped here: Hemingway, Spielberg, Yves Saint Laurent, President Roosevelt, the last emperor of Japan, various kings and queens. Well, now we are, of course. :))

We got a room in which the Russian prince Felix Yusupov and the French choreographer Serge Lefar had previously lived at different times, as evidenced by autographed plates on the walls.

However, what surprised us the most was that it was cheaper than the room we had to give up - 130 euros per night. Most likely it was because someone refused at the last moment and we were just lucky. The regular price of our room on the hotel website is 340 euros per night.

Wandering around the island and the abbey of Mont Saint Michel, we felt like we were walking through a 3D maze. Sometimes, in order to get into a building next to the plan, it was necessary to climb or descend to another level and go to the side there. Therefore, the plan of the island-abbey is simply necessary to have before your eyes. You can take a leaflet with a description of the abbey at the entrance, otherwise the monastery will turn into a series of walls and stairs.

This diagram shows:

1. Abbey
2. Miracle building
3. City
4. Sentinel Terrace
5. External gate
6. Boulevard Gate
7. King's Gate
8. Royal Tower
9. Arcade Tower
10 Freedom Tower
11. Low tower
12. Buckle Tower
13. Church of St. Pierre
14. North tower
15. Claudine Tower
16. Dam
17. Gabriel Tower
18. Strengthening warehouses
19. Saint-Aubert Chapel
20. Spring Saint-Aubert

Spending the night inside the city walls on the island has a huge plus - in the morning and evening the island is empty. Indeed, 3.5 million a year is just under 10,000 people a day. This is what the main street of the town looks like during the usual flow of visitors (the first photo I came across from the Internet).

And so the same place - in the evening, when only those living inside the walls remain.

And the abbey itself looks especially gothic in the evening hours.

To get into the fortress you need to go through several gates:

Outer gate

boulevard gate

and King's Gate with a drawbridge

In medieval fortification architecture, the gate was considered a weak point and such an entrance was necessary. Just outside the Entrance Gate, in memory of the 100-year war, this cannon, captured from the British, was installed.

Mont Saint Michel is for the French a symbol of resistance in the 100 Years' War. For all the time the island was never taken by the British. There was a moment when the abbey was already preparing to surrender, but by chance 119 French knights just happened to be in it, who took over the defense and held it continuously for 10 years, from 1424 to 1434. All of Normandy was in the hands of the British, and only Mont Saint Michel remained unconquered.

Behind the royal gates begins the main and only street of the fortress - Grand rue, which crosses the entire town, located below, at the base of the cliff. It is full of shops, hotels, souvenir shops, there is a city hall, a parish church and even a cemetery. The peculiarity of this village is that its houses and fortress walls with towers are built on sand!

At the very beginning of the Grand Rue, almost at the Royal Gates, our hotel was located with a world-famous restaurant. "Mother Pulyar". His story is this. In the last quarter of the 19th century, when restoration work began in the abbey, Edouard Corroyet settled here, who at that time held the post of chief architect of Mont Saint Michel. Not a single tavern came to his taste, and therefore he appointed his cook Annette Butio as the innkeeper. Soon she married a certain Victor Pulyar, and in 1888 she opened the tavern "Mamasha Pulyar". Despite the fact that delicious dishes were prepared here from a variety of products, Annette Poulard's signature dish was omelette. This fact is easy to explain. It prepares easily and quickly. For weary travelers, this is an appetizer in anticipation of other dishes, for the poor - the main meal. And during fasting and abstinence, he is a meal for everyone. The recipe for Mama Pulyar's omelet is kept a secret. However, the price of this omelet is not at all humane now - 30-35 euros, depending on the filling. Well, from personal experience, I note that despite such inflated prices in other restaurants “outside the walls of the fortress”, both lunch and dinner turned out to be not a fountain. Not in French at all, which, in general, was confirmed by subsequent reviews of reviews on Tripadvisor.

Several narrow lanes lead up from the main street.

In addition to streets and alleys, it is interesting to wander along the walls of the fortress from where views of the town and the sea bay open.

Houses in Mont Saint Michel

The powerful walls of the abbey are overgrown with moss and lichen, which makes it even more likely that this fortress-monastery is a creation of nature, and not of man.

Naturally, if you spend the night inside the fortress in the morning, you can get on an excursion to the abbey itself before the shuttles bring the first tourists from the mainland. Here, by the way, we encountered the classic "French hospitality". It was raining in the morning and ten minutes before the opening, on the stairs under a canopy, at the entrance there were about a dozen people waiting for the start of ticket sales at 9:30. About five minutes before the start, some boss appeared, put everyone out from under the canopy into the rain and stretched the ribbon through the stairs, motivating that it was not supposed to and repeating like a spell in broken English: - This is not possible.

The architecture of Mont Saint Michel, as it were, reflects the medieval European society. On the lower tier is the city, where a class of working commoners and peasants lived. Above, on the middle level, there are buildings intended for the class of defenders - knights and kings. At the top of the mountain stands the abbey, where the clergy settled. The abbey is crowned with a high spire with a gilded figure of the Archangel Michael.

An exact copy of the figure from the spire

Tours of the abbey begin at the gates, protected by a small castle built in 1393 by Abbe Pierre Le Roy. Behind them begins the ascent of a steep staircase, nicknamed "Abyss"

The Benedictines dreamed that Mont Saint Michel would become a kind of hymn to the glory of the Almighty. However, it was not possible to place a huge cathedral building on top of a cliff that could accommodate all the pilgrims. In 1023, the construction of the cathedral in the Romanesque style began, completed only by 1520 in the Gothic style.

Nave of the church.

church window

View of the monastery church, the bell tower and the spire from the cloister (cloister courtyard with a gallery) of La Merveil. The gaze involuntarily rushes to the sky.

In 1204, Philip Augustus annexed the duchy of Normandy, which had been under English rule since 1066, to the French kingdom. Breton soldiers, on the side of France, set fire to Mont Saint Michel. Buildings to the north of the cathedral were destroyed. However, thanks to the generosity of Philip Augustus, buildings were built in their place for a record 17 years for that time. La Mervey(Miracle).

TO loire la merveil, located at the exit of the church, an ideal place for prayer and reflection. It, like other buildings of La Mervey, was built at the beginning of the XIII century for

Cloister colonnade at Mont Saint Michel

From the height of the cloister to the east, the second granite island of the bay, Tomblen, is clearly visible.

The abbot lived in contact with the pilgrims while the monks took refuge in the monastery. From the east, on the southeastern side of the island, rise the abbey apartments, built in the 13th-16th centuries. Directly below them was the garrison of the fortress.

During the French Revolution, when the abbey served as a prison, the Miracle building housed a straw hat factory.

In 1793, the revolutionaries announced the closure of the monastery and the transfer of property to the state. Mont Saint Michel, renamed Mont Libre (Mount Liberty) turned into a prison (prison - Mount Liberty, well, quite revolutionary.), which lasted until 1863. During this time, 14,000 prisoners have been here. At first they were priests and peasants, opponents of the Revolution. Then - political prisoners and criminals.

In 1820, when the abbey was still a prison, a wheel was installed there. With its help, food was lifted up for the prisoners. Similar wheels were used in the Middle Ages to lift various loads. Such wheels were powered by a horse, which, in fact, lived in the wheel. Sometimes prisoners were also used.

The load was lifted by a chain on such sleds

Which moved along the stone guides

Now the premises of the prison are connected by stairs to the Hall of the Knights, located on the next tier.

It got its name in honor of the Order of the Knights of Saint Michael, founded in 1469 by Louis XI. It was a workroom for the monks. It is assumed that tapestries were hung in it, dividing the hall into small sections and an isolated passage through which guests entered the church.

The hall was heated by two huge fireplaces.

The guest hall was intended for noble pilgrims, including kings. Here they shared a meal with the abbot.

The monks' meal is a significant event for the entire brethren, so the hall where everything happens was built with technical and aesthetic innovations appropriate to the time. Thick walls hold light round arches. In order not to weaken the wall, the windows are made narrow and deep. During silent meals, one monk read the Holy Scriptures from the pulpit located on the southern partition.

In the Refectory we were finally overtaken by the first excursion that arrived from the mainland. It turned out to be Chinese.

For about ten minutes their guide chirped vigorously, and then all the same we managed to catch the last period before the influx of the main wave of tourists.

In the afternoon, when the number of visitors reached its maximum, we got out of the island.

and went to neighboring Brittany, to the oyster capital of France, to a town on the western shore of the Gulf of Saint Michel - Cancale.

If fairy tales live somewhere, then this place is located on the northwestern coast of France on the border of Normandy and Brittany in the abbey of Mont Saint-Michel (Abbaye du Mont Saint-Michel). I was there a few years ago and am still under an unusually strong impression, regretting that I never tried the famous "Mother Poulard's omelet" (La Mère Poulard). But more on that later.

This magnificent ancient abbey, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is located at the very top of a stone island, which was once called the Grave Hill (Mont Tombe). Twice a lunar day (24 hours and 50 minutes) there are high and low tides around the abbey, the strongest on the entire coast of Europe!

At high tide, Mont Saint-Michel, with its Gothic spiers, appears from afar, like a mystical island floating above the water surface. And at low tide, the water can move away from the island for 18 km, exposing sand dunes. By the way, you can walk along them under the guidance of a knowledgeable guide, because the water comes back at the speed of a galloping horse. It makes no sense to describe the abbey - it is better to see once than hear a hundred times. I, in turn, will try to give you all the information that I have.

How to get there

Unfortunately, there is no direct transport connection between the cities of the Russian Federation and Mont-Saint-Michel. Therefore, let's agree that we will consider the city as the starting point of our journey. You can read about how to get from Russia to Paris.

Although the road to the abbey no longer poses such a danger as it did in the Middle Ages for itinerant pilgrims, it takes quite a lot of time and, at first glance, does not seem too trivial.

By car from Paris, you have to make a journey of 3.5 hours one way. You can also take the train to the Breton city of Rennes and then take the bus to the abbey. In my opinion, the most convenient option is to book a day tour by bus from the center of Paris. But let's talk about everything in more detail, and you will choose the option that is acceptable for you.

By plane

Due to the unique location and tiny size of the abbey, it is impossible to get to Mont Saint-Michel by plane. As I said above, you can fly to Paris and rent a car there, use the services of French railways or take a bus.

In addition, one of the nearest airports is Rennes-Saint-Jacques Airport, but there are no direct flights from Russia.

By train

Both on weekdays and on weekends, you can get to the abbey using the services of the company SNCF. It is enough just to take a high-speed train departing from the 15th arrondissement of Paris from Gare Montparnasse ( Gare Montparnasse). On it you will reach the city of Rennes ( Rennes) or Dol de Bretagne, and then you can transfer to the train or bus going to the famous abbey.

A one-way ticket will cost at best 52 EUR. Trains run every 40 minutes to an hour, depending on the time of day. After that, you need to transfer to the shuttle bus. Travel time will be approximately 4 hours. On the site SNCF you can buy a combined train + bus ticket.

There is another option, a little energy-intensive, but very interesting. By train from Paris (this time from Saint-Lazare station) you can get to the city of Caen (Caen), in Normandy, and then transfer to the train to the town of Pontorson, located 10 km from the abbey of Mont Saint-Michel . Then you should take a shuttle bus or rent a car. The schedule of the direct shuttle bus from the city of Pontorson to the abbey of Mont Saint-Michel can be found. The cost of a one-way ticket is 2.8 EUR. Please note: to the bus and to the abbey not allowed with a dog.

Electric trains run to Pontorson from the Breton city of Rennes and from Norman Rouen. In the first case, the travel time will be 50 minutes, the ticket will cost 14.7 EUR. There are 2 daily trains from Rouen to Pontorson, departing at 12:04 and at 14:04. A ticket for them will cost 48 EUR, and you will spend at least 4 hours on the road.

By bus

In my opinion, a great idea for solo travelers would be a day tour to Mont Saint-Michel (for example, with the company viator). Such a tour will take 14.5 hours and will cost about 170 EUR. It includes:

road to the abbey(departure from the very center of Paris from the metro station pyramides or from the door of your hotel);
lunch in one of the coastal restaurants overlooking Mont Saint-Michel;
guided tour through the city, the abbey and the ramparts;
free time for a walk and the way back.

Another option is to use the services of a company flix bus. Her buses leave on weekends from the Paris metro stations ( La Defense or Porte Maillot) and arrive back in the evening. A ticket will cost you 24.90 EUR one way. Departure from Paris is at 7:30 am, from Mont Saint-Michel at 17:20 pm. Travel time will be about 5 hours. Please note that buses depart from different metro stations on Saturday and Sunday!

By car

How to get from Paris

The most convenient way to get to the abbey of Mont Saint-Michel is, of course, by car. If you are coming from Paris you should take the A 13 to Caen, then take the E 401 to Avranches and through Pontorson on the D 976 directly to Mount Saint-Michel. Please note that the road, as well as parking near the abbey, is paid.

The cost of parking for 24 hours is 11.70 EUR, less than 2 hours - 6.30 EUR. Please be careful and do not lose your parking ticket, you will have to pay 23.40 EUR for a lost ticket.

There is a beautiful idea to recreate the maritime character of the road to Mont Saint-Michel, which in the Middle Ages was overcome by pilgrims on their way to the abbey. Therefore, the parking lot is quite far (about 35 minutes on foot across the new bridge) from the only entrance to the abbey - the Porte de l "Avancee gate."

The path to the abbey from the parking lot

Once in the parking lot, head towards the Place du barrage and from there walk over the new bridge to the abbey, then you can take some great photos.

In general, there are 3 ways to get to the abbey, one of which is your own feet (I mentioned this above). In addition, you can use public transport, which is incredibly suitable for this fabulous place. There are two modes of transport connecting the parking lot and the abbey: one of them ( Le Passeur) is a gray bus, which is driven by electric traction, the second one ( La Maringote) is a cart pulled by Norman heavy horses. A wonderful way of transportation for those who decide to try on the shirt of the Middle Ages.

In the first case, the journey will take approximately 10 minutes with several stops. Departure is from the Place de Navette ( Place des navettes ), this type of transport is absolutely free. If you want to ride the old-fashioned way on a horse-drawn carriage, then a one-way ticket will cost 5.30 EUR, and it will take more time - about 25 minutes.

Clue:

Mont Saint Michel time is now

Hour difference:

Moscow 2

Kazan 2

Samara 3

Yekaterinburg 4

Novosibirsk 6

Vladivostok 9

When is the season. When is the best time to go

In the western part of France, where Mont Saint-Michel is located, winters are mild and summers are cool, because a temperate maritime climate prevails here. February with an air temperature of +5–7 °С is considered the coldest month, and August with a temperature of up to +20 °С is the hottest.

Rain in Normandy is a frequent occurrence. There is a lot of rainfall here throughout the year, so I recommend bringing an umbrella. It is difficult to name the best time for a trip. Mont Saint-Michel is one of the most visited places in France after Paris with its main jewel - the Eiffel Tower, so there are always a lot of tourists here, and housing and food prices are kept in the same position.

But, for example, the mussel season ends in February and begins only in July. Maybe this will somehow affect your choice of dates for the visit.

Mont Saint Michel in summer

July and August are considered the best months to visit Normandy due to the cool climate and less than usual rainfall. However, despite the fact that schoolchildren have summer holidays in the summer, the number of tourists in Mont Saint-Michel does not change in principle - there are always a lot of them! On warm summer evenings, grandiose performances and classical music concerts are held within the walls of the abbey. You can sit on the outdoor terraces of restaurants and enjoy fresh seafood delicacies with a glass of chilled Normandy cider.

In my opinion, summer is the best season to visit Mont Saint-Michel!

Mont Saint Michel in autumn

Early autumn in Lower Normandy, as in all of France, is good. The weather is still summer, and the flow of tourists is slightly reduced, especially in October. November is considered the most depressing month, although the abbey, dressed in Christmas decorations at the end of the month, certainly looks very festive and even, I’m not afraid to say this word, gingerbread.

Mont Saint Michel in spring

In spring and autumn (on the days of the autumnal and spring equinoxes), the most powerful tides occur around Mount Saint-Michel, and for this alone it is worth coming here at this time of the year. In addition, apple and cherry trees begin to bloom, and the air seems to be permeated with the scents of flowers. The city is painted with bright colors, flower pots with primroses are put up everywhere - spring is coming in Normandy.

Mont Saint Michel in winter

Winter in Normandy... rainy. If you decide on a trip to Mont Saint-Michel in winter, then, strange as it sounds, take an umbrella with you, and even better, rubber boots. Please note that on December 25 and January 1, the abbey is closed to the public. But this is the best time to try the freshest oysters and mussels!

But I'm afraid that for those who are not used to heavy rains, fog, and again this time heavy rains, a trip to Mont Saint-Michel in winter can be a disappointment. But if you go here in winter, it is better for 2 days. To see the ebb and flow and to admire the golden spiers of the abbey in the rays of the setting sun. And what a beautiful sunset in these places!

Clue:

Mont Saint-Michel monthly weather

Districts. Where is the best place to live

For those who decide to settle in the abbey of Mont-Saint-Michel, there are two options to choose from: housing within the city walls and hotels located 2 km outside the city.

There are not very many intramuros hotels, the rooms are small and the prices are high. The cost of living for two per day will cost 90 EUR and more. However, you will be able to watch the ebb and flow from the window of your own room, walk without thinking about the time, and drink wine or other spirits at dinner without worrying about having to drive. On a late summer evening, you can watch a performance or listen to a concert and take your time back to your hotel.

If you are looking for more modern and comfortable conditions for an overnight stay, then you should definitely pay attention to hotels located near the Mountain. The nearest town, as you can see on the map above, is called La Caserne. A room (often with a terrace and a panoramic view of the abbey) will cost around 55 EUR if booked in advance. Keep in mind that in reality there are many more hotels in La Casserne and the surroundings of the Mountain than indicated on the map above. You can search for options and compare prices, for example,. And it’s convenient to make a reservation at.

Often, free shuttle buses run from hotels near Saint-Michel during the day and in the evening, which will take you to the parking lot at the foot of the Mountain and back to the hotel.

There are no hostels, as in big cities, at the foot of Mont Saint-Michel. If your budget is limited, you can stay in the so-called auberges de jeunesse(youth hostels). Some dormitories have age restrictions (for example, up to 30 years old) and a discount is possible with an ISIC student card. Also very popular Chambres d'hotes, where tourists are given the opportunity to live on the territory of a private house, but in a separate room. Usually breakfast is included in the price, and often the owners of the house will keep you company, which can be extremely useful - you can chat with them and find out interesting things that only locals can tell.

What are the prices for holidays

Residence

Being one of the most touristic places in France, Mont Saint-Michel prices are absolutely not shocking. A night in a hotel within the city fortifications will cost 90-120 EUR, in the nearby town of La Caserne - from 55 EUR and more. The more beautiful the view from the window of the room on the abbey, the higher the prices. However, if you take care of booking a room in advance, you can save a lot.

Road

Traveling by train or bus from Paris will cost you an average of 50 EUR one way, but you won't have to pay for parking. Entrance to the city is free, but the ticket to the abbey is expensive (10 EUR per adult), but free for those under 18 years old.

Excursions

You can also save money on tickets to museums by buying a card for 4 city attractions at once, which will cost your wallet 18 EUR.

Nutrition

Lunch, for example, in a pancake shop will cost an average of 15 EUR if you order a main course, dessert and a jug of cider. And in the evening, you won’t be able to eat for such a modest amount - the minimum price for dinner without alcohol is 25 EUR.

Main attractions. What to see

The city on Mount St. Michael (that's how Mont-Saint-Michel is translated), bearing, among others, the name La Merveille or "Miracle", in itself is, so to speak, one big attraction. It was founded in 709, accepted Benedictine monks into its walls, in the 11th century it became a fortress with its garrison, survived several fires and the French Revolution.

The most interesting and main point of your visit will, of course, be abbey, which I will talk about a little lower in the "Churches and Temples" section. However, there are other places in the city worthy of the attention of tourists. But first things first.

Top 4

Beaches. Which is better

Rock Saint-Michel rises above the bay in the middle of the bay of the same name, so at low tide the city stands in the middle of a huge beach, along which, however, you need to walk carefully. Swimming is out of the question here. The Bay of Saint-Michel is a so-called estuary - a flooded mouth of the river, so it has the highest and fastest tide in France!

On the days of the autumn and spring equinoxes, during the most powerful low tides, only wet sand surrounds the mountain. The sea retreats from it for several kilometers, but after 5–6 hours the water rushes to a lonely rock at the speed of a galloping horse (6–9 m/s).

Churches and temples. Which are worth a visit

Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel (l'Abbaye)

To get to the abbey, you need to overcome the main gate of the city, the only street Grande Rue, and then climb a long staircase with 350 stone steps and enter guardroom. The visit is possible daily (except December 25, January 1 and May 1) from 9:00 to 19:00, the ticket price for an adult is 10 EUR, for children under 18 years old - free of charge. You can get all the necessary information and plan a visit on the official website of the abbey.

Entrance is possible to almost all rooms of the abbey, which you can see, for example, by renting an audio guide (4.5 EUR). However, it is worth noting that the ticket price includes an hour-long guided tour in English or French. Every day, 6 excursions are held within the walls of the abbey, you can catch the last one if you come half an hour before closing.

The architectural complex of the abbey is located on several levels. A detailed map can be obtained from the tourist office or when purchasing a ticket.

Desperately recommend to go to the observation deck, located on the terrace at the foot of the church. From there you can enjoy an incredible view of the bay, the islands Tombelaine and îles Chausey, where blocks and stones were mined for the construction of the abbey. Yearly November 8 from this terrace you can watch the sun go down behind Mount Dole. According to legend, it was on this day that Saint Michael fought the dragon there.

At that time, my future husband and I were lucky to get to a very interesting light show held within the walls of the monastery. At the same time, in each hall of the abbey there were art objects, music sounded, which was very memorable, because all the rooms themselves are very ascetic.

The heart of the abbey, which is mentioned in the legend of the bishop and St. Michael, is the chapel Chapelle Notre-Dame-sous-Terre. It is tiny in size, only 11 by 13 m², but this place is really worth a visit, because the centuries-old history began here.

Among other must-see places, I would like to mention knight's hall called Scriptorium. It was there that medieval monks copied books and studied.

Abbey Church (Eglise Abbatiale)

This church is the pinnacle of the Mont Saint-Michel abbey level system, as well as the rock itself. It was built in the 11th century and rises 80 meters above sea level. The interior of the church is very modest. The transept is oriented so that annually May 8 the sunrise is visible just behind the altar. At the entrance to the church, you can notice a carved stone coat of arms with lilies and shells - this is the coat of arms of the Abbey of Mont-Saint-Michel. Masses are held in the church daily at a quarter past twelve, which you can attend.

Museums. Which are worth a visit

There are four museums on Grande Rue: the Archeoscope, the Historical Museum, the Maritime Museum and the Tiffany House. A visit to one museum will cost 9 EUR, and a single ticket to all three - 18 EUR. Museums are open daily from 9:30 to 17:00. It is worth noting that all of them (except the Marine) are closed for the winter holidays, which differ in dates in each region of France, but conditionally take place in February. For visitors under 18 entrance to museums free.

tourist streets

Beyond the main street grande rue, which is mentioned many times in this article, I advise you to take a walk through the small streets of the city, which often do not even have a name. Usually they are not very crowded - it is almost impossible to meet tourists who have come with an excursion. Peace and quiet reign here, and the most common of the buildings are the so-called half-timbered houses - buildings that do not have load-bearing walls.

The power frame is set by an internal wooden structure of beams intersecting at right angles, racks and diagonal braces. The space between the beams is filled with clay and sand, the surface is plastered, and the protruding architectural elements in Normandy are painted in bright colors.

Such a walk will take you a little time, but an unforgettable experience is guaranteed!

What to see in 1 day

If you are lucky enough to get to Mont Saint-Michel for at least one day, I ask you to familiarize yourself with the tide map before starting your visit. This can be done online or at the local tourist office, on the outer wall of which there is a special table ( horaire des marees). In addition, the office sells a detailed map of the abbey. If you have a chance to see the tide with your own eyes, I consider it a great success!

After such a long walk, you will definitely get hungry. In addition, in France fully have lunch possible only with 12 to 14 hours, so I suggest you take a break and try the local cuisine in one of the city's restaurants.

12:30 Dinner. If you book a table in advance, it is quite possible that you will be able to try the famous omelette La Mere Poulard. If not, then try to come to this restaurant for good luck - and suddenly you are lucky and there will be places! Well, or in the most extreme case, just look into the panoramic windows of the restaurant. In them, like in a theater, you will see a real show of cooking the most magnificent omelette in the world, accompanied by the music of beaters, whipping yolks separately from proteins.
14:00 - Visiting of museum. I suggest you visit only 1 museum, the choice of which I will leave to your discretion.
15:00 - If you still hold your legs, I suggest walking along the few streets of the old city, turning off the main street anywhere, and also taking an unforgettable walk around the rock itself on wet sands at low tide. It will take half an hour of your time, and impressions will remain for a year ahead.
16:30 - You may want to buy souvenirs. This can be done, as you already understood, on grande rue. Don't forget to check out the gift shop La Mere Poulard and try the salted caramel. This is delicious!

It would be great if you had the opportunity to stay in Mont Saint-Michel for the night, because then you could taste the incredibly tender lamb meat Agneau de pre-sale, which I will talk about a little lower in the section "Food » , with a glass of red wine. If you are not a fan of meat delicacies, I suggest ordering a bowl of mussels grown right at the foot of the City-upon-the-mountain, with a glass of white.

19:00 - A delicious dinner on the terrace with a panoramic view and the opportunity to see the water coming at an incredible speed will leave an indelible impression of the holiday.

What to do with the remaining evening time is up to you. I only wish: Bonne nuit.

What to see in the surroundings

Food. What to try

Being located on the border of two French provinces - Normandy and - Mont Saint-Michel and the cuisine offered here has absorbed the best from both sides. Here you can meet traditional Breton crepes (Crepes), made on the basis of buckwheat flour, and more familiar to us sweet pancakes, but with a complex filling of salted caramel or delicious Normandy cream, apple jam with cinnamon. They are necessarily served with cider ( Cider).

For real meat-eaters, I highly recommend ordering meat " lamb from the salt fields" (Agneau de pre-sale). It is truly a local specialty that you can try either in Mont Saint-Michel or in Picardy in the area that bears the name Baie de Somme.

In addition to the above, it is definitely worth trying seafood, especially mussels(moules de bouchot de la baie de Mont Saint Michel), which are grown in the immediate vicinity of the walls of the abbey. It is noteworthy that they have French certification L "appellation d" origin protégée (AOP) like cheeses or wines. The mussel season starts in July and ends at the end of January.

What tourists come to Mont Saint-Michel in terms of gastronomy is, of course, « Omelette Matushki Pulyar». It was invented in the 19th century by a young woman named Annette, who did not share the family business with her relatives and opened an inn for tired pilgrims. Things were not going well for her, and the products in the kitchen were often only eggs. According to legend, one of the guests suggested to her the recipe for making an omelette right in the fire of the fireplace.

The secret of this dish is that the whites are whipped separately from the yolks into a fluffy white foam. The yolks are cooked first, and then the whites are poured over them. The omelette turns out to be unusually lush and folded, like a thick book.

Although there are legends about the famous "Mother Poulard's omelette", people go to Mont Saint-Michel not for gastronomic pleasures, but rather for impressions. The local cuisine is simple and tasty, but you should not expect amazing culinary delights from it. Local cafes and restaurants are used to serving a large flow of visitors. Mont Saint-Michel is visited annually by 7 million tourists! Therefore, the range of prices, as in all tourist places, is significant here. But let's talk about everything in more detail.

Budget

Among the budget restaurants, I, perhaps, will single out pancake ones. The simplest pancakes with butter, cheese or egg or sugar will cost you 2-3 EUR, spring rolls - 7-8 EUR.

La Sirene- traditional Breton pancake, very tasty for a reasonable price! Address: Grande rue, 50170 Mont-Saint-Michel, France. Tel: +33 2 33 60 08 6

Creperie La Cloche. Address: rue Principale, 50170 Mont-Saint-Michel, France. Tel: +33 2 33 60 15 65

Intermediate level

Le Relais du Roy-restaurant at the hotel, very tasty, traditional French cuisine, seafood. Address: 8 Route du, 50170 Le Mont-Saint-Michel. Tel: 02 33 60 14 25.

La Ferme Saint Michel Restaurant. Address: Route de Pontorson | La Caserne, 50170 Mont-Saint-Michel, France. Tel: +33 2 33 58 46 79.

restaurant at the Hotel du Guesclin. Address: Grande rue, 50170 Mont-Saint-Michel, France. Tel: +33 2 33 60 14 10.
Le Saint Michel. Address: rue Principale, 50170 Mont-Saint-Michel, official website of Mont-Saint-Michel.
Safety. What to watch out for
In terms of the human factor, I personally would call Mont Saint-Michel one of the safest places in France. Firstly, the entrance to the abbey is limited, and the ticket is quite expensive, and secondly, 72 people live in the city itself, where everything is in plain sight.

It is worth fearing, perhaps, only holes in pockets and tourists like us. We all know that sometimes you can meet dishonest people. However, please note that in the parking lot you need to make sure that you have locked the car and put all expensive things under the car seats or take them with you. You can leave valuables in the luggage room at the entrance to the abbey. This service is free, but you need to have a 1 EUR coin with you to lock the cell.

For those who decide to walk on their own along the sandy shores around Mont Saint-Michel during low tides, I recommend paying close attention to the special timetable, which you can find on the official website of the abbey.

This year, the water level is very high at high tide, reaching 12.8 m in height, so the newly built road may be under water. In order to observe the tide phenomenon, you must be in the bay 2 hours before the time indicated on the site. It's extremely dangerous to be here! The maximum speed of the tide can exceed 6 km/h! I kindly ask you to use the services of a certified guide for such walks.
Things to do
In Mont Saint-Michel, it is customary to walk with eyes wide open, enjoying the most picturesque views, breathing in the intriguing history of the “miracle of the West” along with the sea air.

Here you can watch the high tides crashing down on the rock Saint-Michel, or walk on the wet sand around the incredible beauty of the abbey at low tide.

Such a promenade takes about 30 minutes (distance is about 1 km). It is better not to go far from the foot of the mountain, because, in addition to the returning water, you can get into quicksand. The gray sand seems completely lifeless, but if you look closely, you can easily find all kinds of mollusks flapping their shells and blowing bubbles.

You can become a participant in an incredible light show that takes place within the walls of an ancient abbey, or you can become a gourmet who will taste the most magnificent omelet in the world. You choose!

Shopping and shops
The main and only street of the city ( grande rue) dotted with densely packed shops, cafes, restaurants and hotels. It is very short, you can skip it in a couple of minutes. However, if you stop in idle curiosity and choose souvenirs, you can spend several hours there.

There are half-timbered houses of the XV-XVI centuries, restaurants and cafes, souvenir shops, huddled tightly against each other. On the same street are the entrances to all the noteworthy churches and museums. In souvenir shops you can buy the famous “Mother Pulyar cookies”, knightly armor and watercolors depicting the abbey.

In fact, all shopping is limited to souvenir shops, but it will definitely not leave you indifferent!
Souvenirs. What to bring as a gift
Among the possible souvenirs, I, perhaps, will single out
- biscuits or salted caramelMatushki Pulyar(La Mere Poulard) in beautiful tin boxes. They are very tasty and very high-calorie, but very tasty!
- traditional alcoholic drinks from Normandy: cider (Cidre) or its equivalent, made from a pear rather than an apple - poiret(Poire) Calvados (Calvados) and Pomo de Normandy (Le pommeau de Normandie).
- copper utensils. Here it is sold in various sizes - from pots to pots. You can also find various frying pans, kettles and other utensils. Everything is very beautiful, and most importantly - practical!
- collectible coins Monnaie de Paris, which, in principle, can also be bought at any post office in France. Now on sale is a series with a little Prince Exupery. I have been dreaming of such a coin for a long time!
- replica of medieval weapons, but I'm not sure that it can be safely carried in luggage in our troubled time.
How to move around the city
Unfortunately, the only way to get around the city is on foot. Of course, it is worth noting that the abbey of Mont Saint-Michel is not suitable for visitors with reduced mobility, as you will have to climb a 200-meter path with a steep slope to the top of the mountain and a staircase of 350 steps.

The same applies to baby strollers. If you are traveling alone with an infant, it is best to bring a sling or baby carrier with you.

Near the mountain (2.5 km) there is paid parking, which operates daily. The cost of parking for a car will be approximately 12 EUR. If you lose your parking ticket, you will be asked to refund the full cost of daily parking and a small tax - a total of 23 EUR.

The fare on the toll road from Paris will cost you 24 EUR, from Rouen - 8.90 EUR. Tolls can be paid by credit card or cash. Don't be surprised, some sections of freeways may be free.
Mont-Saint-Michel: holidays with children
In my personal opinion, a trip to Mont Saint-Michel with a toddler can be a disappointment. Children who do not stand well on their feet and try to run on slippery pavement stones are dangerous. On the other hand, a visit with a baby who obediently sits in an airbag and looks around, or with a curious teenager will really bring you pleasure. If you have an angel child, come to Mont Saint-Michel together without hesitation. Otherwise, take a first aid kit with you.

During the summer months of July and August, there is a children's playground next to the church.

Le mont saint michel castle. Mont Saint Michel

About the castle

History of Mont Saint-Michel

What to see?

Maritime Museum

Where to go with children?

History of Mont Saint-Michel

Founding of the monastery: Ober and St. Michael

Cult of the Archangel Michael in France

Mont Saint-Michel in the X-XV centuries: a center of pilgrimage and the Benedictines

Life of the Benedictines

Construction in the monastery

Pilgrims at Mont Saint-Michel

Defense of Mont Saint-Michel during the Hundred Years War

Mont Saint-Michel in the XV-XVIII centuries

Prison

Restoration and revival of Mont Saint-Michel

Tromblain Island

How to get there

By plane

By train

By bus

By car

How to get from Paris

The path to the abbey from the parking lot

When is the season. When is the best time to go

Mont Saint Michel in summer

Mont Saint Michel in autumn

Mont Saint Michel in spring

Mont Saint Michel in winter

Districts. Where is the best place to live

What are the prices for holidays

Residence

Road

Excursions

Nutrition

Main attractions. What to see

Top 4

Beaches. Which is better

Churches and temples. Which are worth a visit

Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel (l'Abbaye)

Abbey Church (Eglise Abbatiale)

Museums. Which are worth a visit

tourist streets

What to see in 1 day

What to see in the surroundings

Food. What to try

Budget

Intermediate level

Safety. What to watch out for

Things to do

Shopping and shops

Souvenirs. What to bring as a gift

How to move around the city

Mont-Saint-Michel: holidays with children