Sulfur lake in the crater of the Kawah Ijen volcano in Indonesia. The brightest volcano in Indonesia When is the best time to climb Ijen, opening hours

The Seven Wonders of the World are not just monuments of the Ancient World, but also a kind of calling card of several eras combined. Although, it must be admitted that this list can be continued, supplementing it not only with architectural structures, but also with original natural phenomena that cause surprise and admiration among all mankind. One such example is a volcano. Kawah Ijen in Indonesia. The fact is that in the crater of this volcano there is a beautiful turquoise lake, in which you absolutely cannot swim, since the water in it is replaced by sulfuric acid.

At night, the liquid turns a rich blue color to the delight of all photographers and artists. We have selected the most spectacular shots Olivier Grunewal, illustrating Kawah Ijen at night time. In the meantime, readers are looking at another miracle of nature, let’s talk about the volcano in more detail.

The attraction is located in Indonesia, the eastern part of the famous island of Java. The height of the volcano is 2.6 kilometers, the diameter of the crater is 175 meters, and the depth of the lake is 212 meters. Even though the water is Kawah Ijen considered dangerous, and the acrid fumes cause an acute coughing attack, local residents go up to the lake every day to extract sulfur deposited on the adjacent stones.

The men climb the volcano on foot, armed with a metal rod and a pair of wicker baskets. In one go, an adult manages to carry up to 90 kilograms of sulfur on his shoulders, for which he receives 50 thousand rupees ($5). During the day, miners make 2 visits to the sulfur lake. By simple calculations, you can find out that the daily wage of an Indonesian is only 10 dollars for complex and dangerous work. And this despite the fact that the sulfur has to be carried on the shoulders in baskets connected to each other according to the principle of a rocker.

If a man wants to earn more, he continues to wear sulfur even after sunset. Considering the fact that there is no electricity Kawah Ijen no, you have to light the road with ordinary torches. The situation is aggravated by the fact that the fire does not illuminate the mining site well, so a person risks slipping off the path and getting his foot into the sulfur lake. After several months of such hellish work, the shoulders of each worker are covered with scars from the heavy burden. In addition, sulfur miners develop a chronic cough due to constant sulfur fumes settling on the lungs.

It’s a little easier for photographers who come to Indonesia to photograph Kawah Ijen. A short stay at the top of the volcano does not cause significant damage to health. But, as the photographers themselves admit, the clothes in which they climbed the volcano have to be thrown away, since the acrid smell of sulfur is simply impossible to wash. But all these inconveniences are completely compensated by the incredible feeling that arises when looking at sulfur glowing in the dark. It looks no less impressive when hot lava flows directly into the water.

Our journey from Mount Bromo to Ijen took the entire daylight hours. I slept almost the entire way. What else to do?! Periodically, Andy told stories of the places she passed. But these stories were of the category: “Coffee was grown here,” “But this is rice, it wasn’t here before,” “And a lonely grandmother lived over there.” Not to say that it was boring, but I didn’t learn anything useful or interesting for myself.

The ascent to the mountains had already begun in the dark. We passed numerous cliffs and slopes in pitch darkness. At one of the turns, Andy said: “It’s good that we don’t see what’s going on around us.”

In the mountains, near Ijen, there are many checkpoints, passing which Andy wrote us down in her visit notebook every time. About half an hour's drive from Ijen there are two small hotels: Arabika Homestay and Catimor Homestay.

We arrived in the village of Banyuwangi again after dark. We stopped at Arabica. Living conditions are camping. The room has a broken bed, insects glowing in the dark, running faucets, shower, toilet, a hole in the floor, windows that won't close, cold. Fortunately, I only sleep here for 4 hours. We had dinner. And rather, without further ado, they hurried to take a break from endless movements.

The Ijen volcano is known throughout the world thanks to numerous documentaries, including National Geographic. In the crater of the volcano there is a large hot lake of sulfuric acid, along the banks of which local residents mine sulfur in inhumane conditions. In a bowl of gray basalt walls there is a turquoise lake, over the surface of which sulfur plumes stretch. Its depth is not great - 212 meters. A kind of unique place worthy of your attention and visit.

When going on a hike to Ijen, do not forget to take a respirator with filters, because sulfur fumes emanating from the sulfur deposit - poisonous. I’ll tell you about my respirator a little lower.

I didn't sleep well. It was cold, and there were dragonflies flying around the room, which flickered and shimmered in different colors in the darkness. Anxious thoughts did not leave me, because the hike is fraught with many dangers and difficulties.

At 00:40 Andy woke me up again, insistently banging on the door. We must catch a nightly event that is famous in these parts: the Blue Fire Show. “A couple of seconds,” I answered, putting the sock on my hand.

We drove for about half an hour to the town of Paltuding, where the ascent to Ijen itself begins. The road is difficult. Not a single lantern, jungle and only us on the route.

There is another checkpoint at the foot, and now we are very close to the dream. We parked the car. Andy quickly found a guide. She assured me that this is the best guide. The guide's nickname was Robin. Robin Bobin Barabek, that's what he called himself as a joke. Climbing Ijen without a local guide is prohibited.

As soon as we headed towards the slope, it began to rain. Andy bought a couple of bottles of water and a rain jacket from local dealers, handed her a headlamp and a hand torch and we headed out. Our guide was very cheerful, sociable, and a local bully. The behavior was more like that of a child. He handed out slaps to his colleagues and took away their hats.

The road is 2.5 kilometers long and goes up a steep hill along a serpentine road, then 1 kilometer along the plain. The path is hard. In pitch darkness and drizzling rain, we barely walked along the path stretching into the distance. For unprepared people, this sunrise can be a problem. The task was complicated by a sleepy state, zero visibility and fog. Nothing was visible at a distance of 3 meters. It was completely unclear what was ahead and what peak we should go to. The water Andy bought was gone within the first 20 minutes. Andy herself was breathing very heavily and lagged behind Robin and me. On this trip she took a huge backpack, which kept her on the ground. We took over her backpack, but it was clear that she could not walk at all. Halfway there, she fell to the ground, either to sit down or to lie down. In response to our persuasion to go down, she refused, saying, my client Denis, he should be satisfied with my work.

After 1.5 hours there is a short break. All the tourists drink tea, the workers hand over the mined sulfur. I already thought that our torment was over, I was not mistaken for a long time. The owner of the establishment said that we were only halfway to the crater. Andy admitted that she had a bad heart condition and could not go any further. Naturally, we left her sitting on the bench, and we went further up the hill. It was then that I noticed that my legs were beating to the point of petrification, my breathing was becoming heavier, and sweat was running down my body in a stream. It's okay, we'll break through. “Gnarled workers” are coming towards us, dragging baskets with 70-100 kg. sulfur.

Volcano Ijen from above

You can take fascinating excursions to the crater of the Ijen volcano. Picturesque paths lead to the vent, along which tourists get to the edge of a natural spring that is amazing in its appearance and content. The lake is located in the largest mountain, at an altitude of 2386 meters. From a distance, the crater resembles the mouth of a true volcano, but as travelers approach it, breathtaking landscapes await. On the gray rocks lie different-sized blocks of bright yellow color - this is sulfur. It comes to the surface as a liquid, rich red color, then creeps down the slopes, drawing veins on them and becoming lighter. Eventually the sulfur cools, hardens and acquires the well-known yellow tint. At night, guests of the Ijen volcano will also not be disappointed: when oxidized, liquid sulfur begins to glow in the dark with incredible blue and blue lights. This mystical phenomenon is called “blue lava” or “blue fire”. The depth of the crater is 200 m, and the radius of the lake is 361 meters. Kawah Ijen is the largest acid lake in the world. The temperature on its surface reaches 60 °C, and at the greatest depth - 180-200 °C (during eruptions - up to 600 °C).

Many travelers dream of visiting the Ijen volcano only because sulfur vapors constantly fall from its depths. Sometimes this is the result of natural resource miners who set fire to the surface of the lake, artificially releasing new portions of the fossil. But history includes dozens of serious natural eruptions.

During the excursion, tourists can also visit coffee and tea plantations and get acquainted with the living and working conditions of local residents.

The history of the Ijen volcano

The origin of the volcano's name is unknown. Local residents used the same toponyms for the lake and the mountain in which it was located.

The first stratovolcano on the island of Java appeared during the Pleistocene period, which began 2.588 million years ago and ended 11.7 thousand years ago. It was then that a mountain range was formed on the basis of basalt, andesite and other types of rocks, which gradually acquired its modern shape and its current geopolitical, natural, economic and tourist significance.

During its existence, scientists have recorded the different nature of the eruptions of the Ijen volcano, each of which is majestic and unique in its own way. The most catastrophic eruption was in 1817, which lasted more than 33 days and caused lake liquid to overflow its banks and flood nearby villages. At the same time, the situation was aggravated by mudflows, which destroyed more than 90 houses and took the lives of many local residents. Activity of such magnitude has never been recorded again.

Sulfur mining

The extraction of a natural resource hazardous to health on the Ijen volcano is carried out manually. Many people who do this work every day have no idea how dangerous this activity is. They simply protect themselves from the stench with the help of constant smoking and wet materials that they bite between their teeth, forming a kind of respirators. Most local residents are not able to survive the age of 45-47, and young people who have already spent several years in the foothills look like sick, frail old people. There are practically no elderly people among the locals.

• The best time to organize a trip: dry, warm season, which lasts from April to October.
• Entrance fee: 15,000 IDR (approximately 67 rubles). Travelers will need money for travel, overnight stays and food.
• A one-day hike to the mouth of the Ijen volcano is quite difficult physically. Experienced tourists try to take care of accommodation for the night in advance, because many are already exhausted by the road alone, and there is simply no energy left to go to their destination. Not far from the volcanoes there is the city of Litsin, where hotels with cozy rooms are located. There is another option: on the way to the vent there are tea and coffee plantations, where tired travelers are offered not only tasting aromatic tonic drinks, but also exciting excursions, as well as overnight accommodation.
• From the foot of the mountain to the crater there is only a 3 km climb, but this road is difficult and exhausting. The paths are hard and flat everywhere, so not only young active people, but also children and older people can travel here. The main thing is to check the weather forecast in advance, because with rain and strong winds, the trip can be overshadowed by limited visibility and consequences in the form of a cold.
• Many tourists mistakenly believe that the high temperature of Lake Kawah Ijen implies a mild climate along the entire route of ascent and descent to the crater of the volcano. This is wrong. The mountain is so high that already from the middle of the route many people need warm clothes, and at the highest point even the most persistent traveler will not refuse a jacket and warm socks.
• Sulfur vapors have a foul aroma, causing lacrimation and an acute reaction of the bronchopulmonary system. To ensure that an excursion to the Ijen volcano is not overshadowed by asthmatic attacks, it is necessary to take care of high-quality respirators or gas masks that will protect not only the mucous membranes of the face, but also the eyes from unpleasant and hazardous evaporation. The higher the protective properties of the device, the safer it is. There are known cases of sulfur vapor poisoning among tourists.
• Those travelers who want to do a good deed for the aborigines can stock up on cotton-gauze bandages and respirators for sulfur miners who cannot afford even the simplest mask.
• Equipment for the excursion should include comfortable shoes, gloves, and insulated clothing.

Another travel option is to book a one-day tour to Ijen from anywhere on the islands of Java or Bali. In the second case, the trip will begin with a ferry crossing, after which you will have to transfer to a bus and get to the city of Bonyuwangi. From here you can get to the plateau by minibus or private taxi. Climbing the mountain will take only 1.5-2 hours, and if after that you want to go down into the crater of the Ijen volcano, workers mining sulfur can become guides. They guide travelers along established routes to ensure a safe walk. They usually ask for a small fee for this (by agreement).

And volcanoes are inseparable concepts. Here, in the most seismically active area of ​​the planet, are impressive giants constantly spewing lava, gases and ash. Among them, one special one stands out, which has no analogues in the whole world. It is engulfed in the bright blue glow of burning sulfur dioxide gas. The glow is light and visible only at night. But it is not the lava that burns, but the gases that come out of fumaroles - cracks on the slopes. Sulfur dioxide gases mixed with water vapor are called solfatane. When they reach the surface, they spontaneously ignite by reacting with oxygen. It is sulfur that is responsible for the unusual and beautiful color of fire. Solfatans are denser than air. During strong eruptions, they flow along the slopes, forming entire fiery streams...

Ijen - a volcano with blue lava

In fact, this is an entire volcanic complex on the island of Java. It consists ofsymmetrical cone-shaped stratovolcanoes. They border the caldera - a huge depression that appears when the fiery mountains are destroyed.The highest point of the complex is Merapi (2803 m).But to Rater Ijen is especially curious, because he filled with hot H2 SO4 - sulfuric acid.

Kawa Ijen - acid lake

Kawah Ijen, or simply Kawah, has a diameter of 1 km and a depth of 200 meters. Everything is interesting here: the color of the water, the fog of sulfur fumes, the temperature and depth of the reservoir. The temperature on the surface of the acidic lake reaches 60 degrees Celsius!

The lake owes its special blueness to its unique composition - a mixture of sulfuric and hydrochloric acids with impurities of various metals. The color and clarity of the Kava waters are related to tectonic activity and change even during the day. The spectrum varies from bright turquoise and green to milky white and gray.

Sulfur mining at Ijen

Near the shores of an acidic lake, local residents have been extracting sulfur with their own hands for hundreds of years, which is formed as a result of the activity of the volcano. It actually condenses from vapors that have not had time to burn. The Javanese insert special pipes into the most active fumaroles (cracks), accelerating the condensation process. But the bulk of the mineral is mined manually using picks and hammers.

Physically it is very hard work. During the day, a worker carries about 100-150 kg of yellow sulfur, loading them into wicker baskets... Not to mention the fact that at any second they can be scalded by hot toxic sulfate. It is noteworthy that locals rarely wear masks to protect against fumes, although tourists are not allowed in without them.

This job is official recognizedthe most harmfuland dangerouson the planet. The average life expectancy of miners is 30 years! Daily earnings are $5... However, in Java the profession is considered elite.

Local crafts made from sulfur are offered to tourists as souvenirs. They can be purchased directly at the top.

Excursions to Ijen

The ascent takes about 2 hours at night and 1 hour during the day. The length of the path is 3 km.

To see the legendary blue lava, you need to go out at night - at 1:00.

It's good to start climbing early in the morning to catch the sunrise at the top. In Indonesia, it is customary to visit most attractions at dawn: the weather is better, it is not hot, and the views are especially beautiful.

The landscapes here are absolutely cosmic at any time of the day. Photos from Ijen will be simply stunning - lifeless stone slopes of the volcano, huge clouds of steam escaping from the bowels of the earth, combined with a sky-blue lake at the bottom of the crater. From the top you can see picturesque panoramas of the entire complex.

What to take and how to dress

Be sure to take a couple of liters of drinking water with you. Thirst will make itself felt, and even if there are springs, you cannot drink from them.

Make sure you wear closed shoes with good soles. There are a lot of small stones and sand on the trail. Don't forget your jacket, as it is quite cool and windy at the top. Take headlamps for night climbing.

Do Ijen have eruptions?

In general, it is in a period of attenuation. It erupts, but without magma, which was last seen here back in 1817 (distant by Indonesian standards, of course:). It is characterized by phreatic (or gas) activity, which we discussed above. Earthquakes are frequent, but on the seismic activity scale - within 1 point.

Visiting these places is permitted subject to safety rules and the presence of a guide. Using a respirator or a special mask to protect against harmful sulfur dioxide is MANDATORY. A handkerchief, buff, or something to cover your airways and eyes will come in handy.

How to get to Ijen

N and Java has an international airport in Surabaya. B The nearest settlements to the volcano are the villages of Pos Paltuding (Pos-Paltuding) and Kalisat ( Kalisat), and from the largest - the city of Banyuwangi ). You can get to Banyuwangi from Surabaya by train, and then by minibus to Paltuding (2 hours).

If you fly into Jakarta, from there you can fly to the town of Jember (Jember) in Java, where there is also an airport. Jember is located near Pos Paltuding, and a domestic flight costs about $50.

Getting to Ijen from Bali is very easy. In the same Banyuwangi there is a large crossing Kepatang (Kepatang) , where ferries run regularly. In Java You can rent a car and drive an hour and a half to your destination from the ferry station.

Please note that the services of a local guide cost about $190.

In the photo - Ijen from the ferry to Bali

The path to your goal will give you a lot of pleasure - a serpentine road in the jungle, coffee plantations, colorful small villages, green hillsides and towering fire-breathing peaks of Indonesia...

We recommend visiting Bromo after Kawah Ijen - the journey will take about 5 hours by car. Bromo Tenge Semeru Park is especially beautiful in the early morning ;) We always enjoy the sunrise over Bromo on our trekking trips in Indonesia.

Ijen Volcano is one of the most amazing and at the same time most dangerous places on the globe. It represents an entire volcanic complex, as it includes craters, old volcanoes, volcanic cones, some of which are located at a distance of 20 kilometers from each other. Thirsty for adventure, thousands of tourists come here every year to see with their own eyes the incredibly beautiful blue fire, the largest volcanic lake and inhumane conditions for sulfur mining.

The volcano is located on the island of Java, on the border of two districts: Banyuwangi and Bondosovo. It is a whole complex, which includes about 10 objects. From a tourist point of view, the most remarkable is the crater of the Ijen volcano. Being in constant activity, it spews out clouds of gray smoke without interruption.

Ijen is significantly different from other volcanoes. In its crater, instead of seething lava, there is an emerald lake. The dimensions of the reservoir are 950×600 meters. But instead of ordinary water, the lake is filled with a mixture of hydrochloric and sulfuric acid. On the surface the temperature of the mixture is 50-60 degrees. Its color is constantly changing, it is now turquoise, now malachite, now emerald. On the shore and a little away from the lake, veins of a bright yellow hue may appear. This is exactly what sulfur is.

In liquid form, sulfur has a bright red tint. Flowing down the slopes, it cools and brightens. After this, it becomes hard and turns yellow. At night, as a result of oxidation, sulfur has a beautiful blue tint.

Near the lake, the local population is engaged in sulfur mining. This is quite difficult and dangerous work. After filling the baskets with pieces of sulfur, workers manually lower them down. The weight of one such burden is about 80 kilograms. During the day, the guys manage to complete only two such descents, as a result of which they receive $10-13. By the standards of the island of Java, this is a very prestigious and highly paid job. The population density here is high and the unemployment rate is at its highest. Therefore, residents try to take on any job.

How to get to the volcano from Bali?

There are two ways to get to Ijen from Bali. If you don’t want to worry about anything, you can book a group tour. You can take it. This destination is very popular among tourists, so hikes are organized regularly. The cost of the program in a large group starts from $95. This tour lasts 2 days.

There is also nothing difficult about traveling to Ijen on your own. Initially, from Bali you need to get to Banyuwangi - this is the nearest settlement where the tourist infrastructure is well developed. It is also the base point of departure to the volcano. By the way, by contacting local travel agencies, you can also book a tour to climb to the top. Of course, this is not necessary, since you can get to the volcano on your own.

Using any transport you need to get to the Pos Paltuding camp, located at the foot of the mountain. All the necessary infrastructure is concentrated here, there are cafes, shops, and parking. The hike begins from the camp; the entire route lasts about 3 kilometers. Here you can use the services of a guide who will accompany you there and back. But given that the road is not so difficult, you can climb without his help.

The distance from Banyuwangi to Pos Paltuding is 30 kilometers. There is only one road leading there, which is not of the best quality. Public transport does not run to the desired location. And you will have to use a taxi, motorcycle taxi, organized tour or rented bike. The last option is the cheapest, since daily rental of transport costs on average 65 thousand rupees, plus you will not depend on anyone for time.

Ijen Volcano on the map

On this map I have marked the exact location of the Ijen volcano.

How to climb the volcano?

As I already noted, the hike to the volcano starts from the Pos Paltuding camp at an altitude of 1875 meters. You need to walk 3 kilometers. You will have to overcome a height difference of only 500 meters, this route can take from 1 to 3 hours, it all depends on your physical endurance.

Ascents can be either night or day. The advantage of going at night is that you can see the “blue fire” in the crater of the volcano, as well as watch the sunrise on the top of the mountain. There are always a lot of night travelers. If you decide to hit the road at night, take a flashlight with you, preferably one that is attached to your head.

It is unlikely that you will get lost, since there is only one wide path leading to the top. Sulfur miners also walk along it, so if you meet them on the way, try not to interfere, do not forget that each of them carries about 80 kg. If you decide to take a photo with them, then try to thank them for it. Usually 5-10 thousand rupees is enough.

After you reach the top, you need to go down another 200 meters to the lake itself. This descent is quite steep and will take about half an hour, so be careful. It is in the crater that you will see a blue flame; this is sulfur being oxidized. Sulfur miners also work here. After admiring this spectacle, climb back to the top of the crater and go to the meeting point of the dawn.

Volcano crater

The volcanic crater with an acid lake located in it is 361 meters wide, its depth reaches up to 200 m. Being in it is quite dangerous, but this does not stop tourists.

Having climbed to the top, you will see that the crater is filled with acrid gray fumes - sulfur vapors, which have an extremely negative effect on human health. There is always a high temperature near the pipes from which sulfur flows; it is dangerous not only for health, but also for life. That is why, when climbing Ijen, be sure to take a protective mask with you, and the better it filters the air, the easier it will be for you to breathe.

But if you observe the crater from the side, that is, lingering on its slopes, then a picture of incredible beauty will open before you: devastated rocky slopes, tubers of caustic sulfur rising upward and a motionless acidic lake, considered one of the most dangerous in the whole world.

Hotels near the volcano

The best places to stay overnight are the towns of Banyuwangi and Bondosovo. They have good tourist infrastructure, and there will be no problems with choosing accommodation. If you are coming from Bali, it is better to give preference to the city of Banyuwangi. Some of the best hotels in this city include:

There are also several cozy guesthouses located near Ijen. 2 of them are located in the village of Sempol, 10 kilometers from the mountain, and one is in the camp where the hiking route to the crater begins. In Sempol you can stay in the houses of the local population; they usually rent out rooms.

If you are planning to visit a volcano, pay attention to the following recommendations:

1. The ideal time to travel is from April to October, when it is dry and warm.
2. The entrance ticket costs only 15 thousand rupees, but bring money for travel, food and overnight stay.
3. The hike to the volcano is physically exhausting. Therefore, you should decide in advance the issue of overnight stay. Good hotels are located in Banyuwangi town. You can also spend the night at a tea plantation that you will meet along the way. In addition to a place where you can spend the night, you will be offered a tasting of aromatic tea and a fascinating tour of the plantations.
4. The duration of the path from the foot to the top is only 3 kilometers, but this section of the path is considered the most difficult. Due to the fact that the route consists of gentle paths, people of any age, including children, can go on a trip. I advise you to check the weather forecast in advance; during strong winds and rain, visibility will be limited. Among the unpleasant consequences are colds and poor health.
5. Please note that the mountain is quite high and literally in the middle of the journey you will want to dress warmly. Accordingly, it will be even cooler at the top. Therefore, take warm clothes with you.
6. The released sulfur vapors permeate the air with a foul aroma, which irritates the mucous membranes and can trigger asthma attacks. Be sure to take masks, respirators or gas masks with you. The higher the protective properties of the product you choose, the better for you. Cases of sulfur poisoning among tourists have been recorded.
7. If you want to do a good deed, you can take with you several respirators or cotton-gauze bandages for the sulfur miners, since they don’t even have enough money for such vital little things.
8. Take care of comfortable equipment. You should have stable shoes, insulated clothing and preferably gloves.

Ijen is such a popular place that people from other countries come here specifically to see another natural wonder with their own eyes. If you are vacationing in Bali, then try to find time and go to the volcano. The main thing is not to forget about the basic safety rules, and you will get a lot of positive emotions from such a trip.