Normandy castle of mon saint michel. Wonder of the West: Mont Saint Michel

The castle, or rather the abbey of Mont Saint-Michel, is one of the most beautiful, unusual and unique buildings not only in France, but also in the world. According to statistics, in terms of popularity among tourist sites, this place is on a par with the Eiffel Tower, which is truly impressive.

In the north-west of the province of Normandy, among silt and sand, rises this fortress, which occupies the entire island. He is the only inhabited, of the three located in the Bay of Saint-Michel. The island rises to a height of about 79 m and is only 1 km in diameter.

The two provinces of Brittany and Normandy have not been able to divide the fortified island for many centuries. The border is the Cuenon River, which flows at the base of the fortress. Distance to Paris 285 km. In 1874 the island was given the status of a historical monument.

Since 1979, it has been under the protection of UNESCO.

The uniqueness of the fortified island lies in its location. Twice a lunar day (24 hours 50 minutes), there are ebb and flow in the bay, the strongest on the European coast and the second in the world. This falls on the days of the spring and autumn equinox, as well as on the 2nd or 3rd day after the new full moon.

Water leaves at a distance of up to 18 km and spills into depths of up to 20 km. The duration of this natural phenomenon in winter can occur for 8 hours, in summer for an hour longer. The maximum water speed is 6 km / h.

There are several ways to get to the castle island. On weekends, Flixbus buses leave early in the morning from the La Defense quarter of Paris, and return late in the evening. Travel time is 5 hours, the cost of a round-trip ticket is about 50 €.

On weekdays, a high-speed train leaves from Montparnasse train station to Rennes. Then, you need to change to the local Keolys bus. It is possible to purchase a combined train-bus ticket. One way price is about 50 €.

If you travel by car, you will have to leave the car 12 km away in the village in a parking lot for 11.5 € per day, then cover the remaining distance by bus for free.

The bus itself is unusual - its walls are upholstered with wooden slats. The last 300 m you need to walk on foot, during the Middle Ages it was done in a carriage. Now such a trip by horse-drawn transport will cost 5.3 € per person.

Climatic conditions, the best time to travel

When choosing the time to travel to the island castle, you need to be guided by the weather forecast for the north of France, the province of Normandy. Consider the special location close to the ocean. The wind freely walks here, which is especially felt on the observation platforms.

Due to the constantly humid sand around, there are often fogs in winter, and high humidity in summer combined with the scorching rays of the sun. Of course, before walking near the mountain, you need to know the tide schedule. After all, water comes quickly, at the speed of a running person, and sometimes it can reach 40 km / hour.

Local guides will tell you that in the old days, the wave absorbed inattentive wanderers and even entire crews. The most favorable time to visit this "eighth wonder of the world", as the French call it, is spring and autumn. There are a lot of tourists here in summer.

Transport

Every day, at intervals of several minutes, a bus runs between the island and the mainland. The first flight is at 7.30, the last at midnight. Electric buses have an unusual design: the driver's cab is located at the front and rear. They were specially designed for Mont Saint Michel. Travel is free, travel time is 12 minutes.

There is a very interesting sightseeing bus to Mont Saint Michel. Its peculiarity is that it is two-sided!

There is also an alternative transport: a wagon pulled by a pair of Norman heavy trucks. Capacity 24 people, price 5 €.

Historical reference

Mont Saint Michel (France) was originally built as a monastery. An unusual phenomenon of that time: all French castles were erected for protection, in the form of defensive outposts. As the legend says, in 708 the Archangel Michael appeared to Bishop Aubert of Avranches and ordered to build a temple on the Grave Hill (here the first Christian hermits lived and died).

The bishop, thinking that he had misinterpreted the vision, ignored it the first time and the second. Finally, for the third time, when the archangel burned a hole in Aubert's head, he decided to start construction.

According to the vision, it was at the site of the granite ledge that the meeting of two opposing forces took place: good and evil. The forces of light won, it was in honor of this victory that a monastery was built. For 2 centuries, the island has become a place of pilgrimage.

Concerned about the popularity of the canons, the Duke of Normandy Richard I replaced the local monks with Benedictines in 966. They were good builders. A small settlement was built for the pilgrims. A temple with adjacent buildings was erected on the top of the hill.

Today, only one wall has survived from the original structure, and the skull of Bishop Aubert is in the Avranches Basilica. In 1204, the French captured Normandy and burned down the monastery. To make amends, the French king decides to donate a huge sum for the restoration of the monastery.

In the northern part of the island, the creation of the La Merveille complex has begun, which means a miracle. Construction work lasted 17 years. In such an incredibly short time, a masterpiece of architecture, recognized as an example of medieval Gothic, appeared.

By the 13th century, several hundred Benedictine monks lived within the walls of the abbey. During the Hundred Years War, the abbey had an independent status and was under the protection of free knights. They successfully defended their home. Most of the west of France was then captured by the British. To this day, a list of free knights, defenders of the fortress, has been preserved on a stone slab.

The decline of the abbey's power began already during the Hundred Years War. At the end of the 16th century, only 13 monks remained. In the 18th century, the monastery fell into decay and was closed during the French Revolution. Until 1863, the abbey building was used as a prison. Its liquidation was announced by Napoleon III, and the monastery received the status of a historical monument.

The Abbey Church has been repeatedly struck by lightning and fires. To protect against a natural phenomenon, a 6-meter lightning rod in the form of a spire was installed in 1897. Today it is decorated with a decorative figure of Michael the Archangel with a sword. Over the years of its existence, the abbey church was completely burned down and rebuilt again. In 1966, the monks returned to the abbey.

The main stages in the history of the island - the abbey:

Event	Time (century, year)
The emergence of a settlement	708 year
Abbey construction	XI - XV century
The dam connecting the island with the mainland	1879 year
Historical monument status	Since 1874
UNESCO listed as a World Heritage of Humanity	1979 year

Acquaintance with the monastery, sights

The entrance to the walled city is free. After passing through the Royal Gate, then along the only street in the city of Grande Rue, there is an ascent along the cobbled stone streets up to the abbey church.

Among the locals, this path is called the "outdoor great ascent". After all, the width of the street is only 2 m, the side streets are very narrow, you even have to move sideways. How many mysteries these ancient buildings keep ... Along the way, there are many shops and restaurants. Previously, these were the houses of the abbots.

The urban population, together with the mayor, is no more than 30 people. All of them work in the service sector, have small farmland. In the 19th century, as a result of reclamation work, land was freed for agricultural work. The meat of the lambs raised here has a special taste and has been awarded the AOC quality mark. This is due to the grass irrigated with seawater.

So, further along the way is the Church of Jeanne D'Arc. Although what does this Maid of Orleans have to do with the abbey? Indeed, at the time of her execution in 1431, Mont Saint Michel did not belong to the territory of France. It was a feudal independent city.

There are 4 museums on the territory of the castle:

Walking along a narrow stone labyrinth, in addition to shops, a post office is encountered on the way. This is a great opportunity to send a postcard from the abbey to your friends or yourself.

At the end of the main street, steep steps lead to the upper tiers of the complex. This circumstance should be taken into account, since not everyone will be able to overcome such a rise. In front of him is the church of St. Petra with a cemetery.

Guided tour of the abbey

Most of the island, 55,000 sq m, is occupied by a Benedictine abbey, a unique and best example of French medieval architecture. The medieval craftsmen managed to “wrap around” the granite cliff with stone buildings.

The structure of the church, consisting of two 3-storey buildings, is held on a platform 80 m long. The skill of the calculations of the architects and builders of that time is striking. This allows us to call San Michel a miracle of architects. A service is held daily in the church, admission is free

Visiting the upper tier, where religious sites are concentrated, is paid. Price for adults 10 €, children - free. La Merveille Church has three floors. The guardroom is the fortified entrance to the abbey. The complex includes a cloister (courtyard), a guest room and a refectory.

The courtyard now looks blooming, with arches around the perimeter. Initially, there was just a stone sack, which served as a place for the prisoners to walk. There were no stone arches around the perimeter. This is how the cloister became at the beginning of the 20th century, and the garden appeared in 1965.

Immediately behind the cloister is the refectory or refectory. The floor was tiled in 1968 and the bas-reliefs on the walls appeared in 1991. In the guest room, the abbot received guests. It contains two large fireplaces for cooking and heating food.

Behind the guest room, through the gallery, visitors enter the former ossuary - the place where the bones of the dead are kept extracted from the graves. There is a huge wooden wheel installed in 1820 to lift food for prisoners and guards. Now it is a copy of the medieval one. The wheel was rotated by 2 horses.

Mont Saint-Michel (France) has preserved to this day only some fragments of the internal interiors of the abbey, dating from the XII-XV centuries, the main part of the building belongs to the period of the late XIX early XX centuries. The organ in the temple was installed in 1965.

The abbey complex houses a strip hall - a library with manuscripts recognized as part of the world cultural heritage. The upper terrace offers a magnificent view of the surroundings, the bay.

Until 2015, there was an embankment dam connecting the monastery with the land. The parking was located directly under the cliff and was free. Under the pretext of a worsening environmental situation, it was decided to move the parking lot away from the island, demolish the dam and build a bridge.

Local kitchen

The city has restaurants and cafes where you can have a tasty snack at reasonable prices. There are no fine French restaurants here. All dining establishments are located on Grande Rue.

Among the local dishes, seafood is especially popular, especially the meat of local lambs.

Also, guests are offered a signature omelette in a royal style "Mama Pula", which is cooked over an open fire, buckwheat pancakes.

Everywhere the service is fast, as the tourist flow at any time of the year is huge. The average bill is 12-25 €, a dinner with alcohol will cost 80-120 €. Sandwiches and takeaways cost 3-4 €.

Restaurants are usually found in hotels. Service in such establishments is not in a hurry, but it does not bother visitors.

Indeed, through the panoramic windows of restaurants, you can watch the ebb and flow or just enjoy the landscape.

Where can I stay

For travelers, there is a choice: stay in a hotel outside the fortress walls or nearby in the town of La Caserne. All hotels in the city are located on the main street. Despite the large number of hotels on the island, there are still not enough of them. Accommodation must be booked in advance.

Mont Saint Michel (France) offers hotels located on the ground floors of buildings from the 15th to 16th centuries. The most popular is the La Mare Poulard 3 * hotel. It is located in the center of the city and offers excellent views of the bay, the abbey or ancient buildings. The local restaurant offers the famous scrambled eggs and groceries can be bought at the shop.

The hotel has free Wi-Fi, parking and family rooms. Hiking and cycling excursions can be organized. The cost of a double room in June 2019 is about 300 €.

Auberge Saint Pierre is considered the best hotel according to tourists. It is located at the very top of the mountain in a 14th century half-timbered mansion. The hotel features elegant French interiors. There are duplex rooms. Breakfast buffet, Wi-Fi. The price of the room is about 200 €. On the territory of the castle there are only 9 hotels 2-4 stars, there is a camping, open from February 15 to November 11.

At La Caserne, hotel rooms are more comfortable, parking facilities and a vibrant nightlife. The price of a room in a 2 * hotel is from 55 €. There are no hostels in the vicinity, you can stay at the auberges de jeunesse - a youth hostel.

There may be age restrictions, for example, up to 30 years. You can rent a room in a private house, perhaps conversations with the locals will help you learn a lot more about the fortified island.

There are large hotels and motels along the D-976 road closest to the island. There is a railway station 6 km from the island in the town of Pontorson, and buses leave regularly to the fortress. For example, the Montgomery Hotel has a historic building and Bretagne has good restaurants.

Shopping

All shops and souvenir shops are located on the lower tier of the main street. Tourists take with them ceramics, porcelain and copper products. Tablecloths, alabaster figurines of chimeras, and sets of knightly armor at a huge price are in great demand.

The abbey sells numerous booklets, gift books and travel guides. The prices are quite affordable. You can bring butter cookies "from Mother Poulard", Brittany queen-aman pies and salty caramel.

The shop "Aux 3 Croissants" sells traditional for Brittany and Normandy carpets and woven products, jewelry, porcelain.

Excursion programs

The ticket purchased to visit the abbey entitles you to join one of the guided tours, which are conducted in several languages. Duration 45-60 minutes. The excursion schedule is posted at the entrance to the complex. In July and August, the abbey is open for evening visits.

From 7.00 to 21.00 you can walk in the gardens every day. When video and music equipment is installed in the abbey, you can stay on the territory until 24.00. Visiting from 21.00, price for adults 10 €, from 13 to 24 years old - 7 €.

One of the most unusual islands in the world, Mont Saint-Michel conquers with its uniqueness, mystery, antiquity. France is proud of the abbey no less than the famous Eiffel Tower.

Article design: Vladimir the Great

Video about Mont Saint Michel

A documentary about Mont Saint Michel:

Mont Saint-Michel is a castle with a truly rich history, whose roots go back to the beginning of the 8th century, when a small chapel appeared on the top of a granite rock-island. Although, according to the legends, the island on which this shrine rises has long been considered a sacred place. Here the Druids worshiped the setting sun and carried out the burials of the Celts, and some legends even say that Julius Caesar was buried in a golden coffin on the island.

The origin of the island is also shrouded in many legends. According to one of the legends, giants dragged two rocks into the bay. But the most realistic version of the formation of the island, where the abbey of Mont Saint-Michel is located, claims that the coastline in this region has significantly changed after a severe storm.

Part of the coastal meadows disappeared under water, later being covered with sand, and two rocky hills turned into islands. On the largest of them, Mont Tomb, a monastery arose, the name of which translates as "Mount St. Michael".

One of the French legends says that the idea of ​​creating a monastery on the rock of the island came to Bishop Aubert in a dream. Archangel Michael, who appeared to the holy father, wished that a temple dedicated to him be built on the rock surrounded by the sea. Aubert considered the dream nonsense, but the visions did not stop appearing to him. So the bishop had to start implementing the idea that haunted him in his dreams. In 966, the first Benedictines appeared within the walls of the monastery of Mont Saint-Michel.

A shrine, an impregnable outpost and ... a prison

The construction of the abbey here began in 1023, and 17 years later (a record period for those years!), A majestic castle appeared in the best traditions of medieval Gothic.

At a height of 80 m, the majestic walls and impressive turrets of the ancient monastery rise to the sky. The top of the spire crowning this majestic castle rises 155.5 m above sea level and is decorated with a golden figurine of an archangel. On all sides Mont Saint-Michel is surrounded by sea waters, and only a 2-kilometer dam, which arose here at the end of the 19th century, serves as a link with the mainland of France.

During the Hundred Years War, Mont-Saint-Michel withstood the 30-year siege of the British, gaining the glory of the last stronghold of France, never captured by enemies and forever remaining in history as an impregnable citadel.

At the end of the 18th century, the monastery that existed within the walls of the castle was closed, but its building itself for several decades turned into a prison for especially dangerous criminals, for which it acquired the name of the "provincial Bastille". But since 1863, after the overhaul and restoration of this unique architectural structure in France, the entrance to the castle of Mont Saint-Michel became available to tourists.

Insanely beautiful, insanely dangerous

For centuries, the majestic Mont Saint-Michel has attracted pilgrims to itself. Enchanted by the beauty of the holy monastery, travelers rushing to its walls often became victims of the insidious sea element. The bay in which the monastery was located has long been famous for its strong tidal currents. The water recedes from the coast by 10-15 m, but during high tide it returns back at a speed of about 4 km / h, with strong winds reaching speeds of up to 30 km / h.

Low tide in the bay always begins suddenly, and the sand that opens up to the gaze, demonstrating the ghostly illusion of solid land, is in fact like viscous silt. Therefore, the numerous legends about carts covered by the quicksands of the bay heading to the monastery, and travelers who died in the waters of the bay that suddenly overtook them, can have a completely realistic basis.

Here, the most impressive difference between high and low tide levels on the entire European coast is still preserved, but the sea has already moved away from the coast of the island, on which the castle of Mont Saint-Michel is located. Now the island is more often surrounded by sand than water, and the tides reach their peak only twice a year - on the day of the spring and autumn equinox. During this period, in just a day, the water level rises by 10 m.

But even though now there are no those impressive ebbs and flows, as in the Middle Ages, still rarely anyone dares to head towards the walls of Mont Saint-Michel through the sands. Yes, and there is no special need for this now, because there is, although a rather thin strip of land connecting the castle on the island with the mainland, available for transport.

The very same bay around Mont Saint-Michel is a unique nature reserve, where up to 10 thousand mussels are grown per year, and the same huge number of Norman sheep graze on the coastal meadows.

An architectural masterpiece for centuries

Invariably included in the ten most beautiful castles in the world, Mont-Saint-Michel is considered by the French to be a real “eighth wonder of the world”. Therefore, it is not surprising that the inhabitants of two historical regions of France - Brittany and Normandy, on the border of which an island with a castle is located, for a long time did not stop disputes about the right to classify an impressive sight precisely to their territories.

Everyone wants to be the most involved in such a wonderful architectural masterpiece. Nevertheless, Normandy was still the winner, since the Cuenon River flowing here clearly defines the conditional boundaries of the two historical regions. On this occasion, the inhabitants of Brittany sadly joke that the river went crazy, giving such a beautiful castle to Normandy.

The famous writer Victor Hugo was so impressed by the view of the castle that he called it "The Pyramid in the Ocean". The outlines of the castle may seem very familiar to modern visitors, and it is not by chance, since it was this architectural landmark of France that served as the prototype of the castle from the "Lord of the Rings" movie saga.

For many centuries, Mont Saint-Michel has retained the fame of one of the most striking architectural gems of France, second only to Parisian attractions in popularity and being the most visited ancient castle of this country after Versailles. So, it is best to visit this attraction in spring or autumn, since in summer there are almost no crowds of tourists here.

A tour of the castle includes a visit to the So-Gaultier terrace, which offers impressive views of the surrounding area, and a working temple - the Abbey Church. The most interesting is a visit to the upper tier of the castle, called La Mervel (ie Miracle), where you can admire various religious relics. In the small houses of the abbey, erected in the 16-17 centuries around the castle, there are now cafes, restaurants and souvenir shops.

On the border of two French counties, Brittany and Normandy, in the middle of the Cusnon River, there is a castle island with huge rocky shores towering 80 meters above the water surface.

It is called, which is translated into Russian from French as Mount St. Michael.

Castle Island Legend

Legend has it that the construction of Mont Saint-Michel, which was an abbey in the Middle Ages, was started by Aubert, the French archbishop, after the Archangel Michael appeared to him three times in a dream in 709 in a dream. The winged guest said that a fortress should be built on a rock that rises above the sea.

Twice Aubert did not listen to the angel, and Mont Saint-Michel would never have been built if the archangel's patience had not run out. During the third visit, the heavenly messenger decided to back up his words with a flick on the forehead, during which the angel's sword burned the clergyman's robe. Aubert considered such an argument weighty enough to overcome his laziness and fulfill Mikhail's request.

Pyramid in the ocean

Mont Saint Michel was built by the Normans, contemporaries of William the Conqueror. Kings of all Europe in search of paradise on earth made a pilgrimage to him. During the Hundred Years War, the great castle did not surrender to the English conquerors in 30 years of siege.

Twice a year, on the days of the autumnal and spring equinox, the water of the Kusnon River rises to the level of the castle walls. The tide is extremely fast, so unwary tourists have a chance not to have time to reach the fortress. The water turns the castle into an island connected to the continent by a causeway.

Visited this magical place Victor Hugo, a master of the pen and father of Notre Dame Cathedral, considered the Miracle architectural complex on the island the most beautiful in Europe, and dubbed Mont Saint Michel a pyramid in the ocean.

Visit to the Monastery of Mont Saint-Michel

For several tens of centuries, people have been walking to this place along the road called the "Path of Paradise". They go not just like that, but to ask for help and consolation from the Archangel Michael.

If you are traveling on a tour to Paris, then your tour operator can arrange for you a trip-excursion to the island of Mont Saint-Michel, but only for one day.

It is much better to go there on your own to wander the medieval streets of this island-castle, discover different hidden corners and imagine how history comes to life before your eyes ...

You will have to stay in a hotel with a three-star level of comfort, since there is no choice - there is only one hotel in the castle. And this hotel is also involved in history - after all, it was built in the sixteenth century.

Currently, Mont Saint-Michel is visited by crowds of tourists; in terms of its popularity, it has clearly eclipsed Versailles and even Paris. No joke - more than three million people annually!

Not so long ago, restoration work was carried out on this island, and the top of the tower is decorated with a gilded statue of the Archangel Michael, the work of the famous sculptor Fremier.

Castle of Mont Saint-Michel - tourist attraction

There were troubled times in the history of the castle of Mont Saint-Michel - at first it was a monastery, which was closed in one thousand seven hundred and ninety, and instead of a monastery it was turned into a state prison for the most dangerous criminals and repeat offenders.

And for fifty years the castle was not a place of pilgrimage for people, but, as it was called, "Provincial Bastille".

But, fortunately, the authorities changed their minds, Mont Saint-Michel was restored, it was overhauled, after which tourists were able to visit this beautiful place again. But this happened only in one thousand eight hundred and sixty-three.

Tourists will be interested to see the abbey, the Gothic complex of buildings "Miracle", the Grand staircase, which are located in the city of Mont Saint-Michel, the Grand Rue lane.

To get to the inner part of the island, which, by the way, consists of only one street - Rue Grande, you need to pass the Royal Gate.

After passing through them, you will see small, charming houses, standing close to each other on both sides of the street.

Earlier, in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, these houses were residential, but now you can find souvenir shops, shops or cafes there.

The most famous miracle of the abbey is the "Monastery Courtyard", which hangs between earth and sky.

It contains six rooms, as well as a passage to the former refectory, which today is used as a venue for various meetings, symposia or banquets.

Participants in these celebrations can taste the monastery cider.

Stone buildings harbor centuries-old cold. And the drafts do their job, therefore, when going to the island of Mont Saint-Michel, you need to take warm clothes with you. It will definitely come in handy, especially for those wishing to take a walk outside the castle, for example, to walk around it.

Due to the proximity of the sea, there is a strong wind outside, so it is very easy to freeze, despite the fact that it will take only one kilometer to walk around the castle.

Going out for such a walk is allowed only during low tide, when you can walk on the sand, and not alone. The soil of the island is such that there are voids in it, and if a leg gets stuck there, it will be impossible to get out on its own.

You will need to be sure to know the high and low tide times if you are planning to walk around the island. After all, the water at high tide can rise fifteen meters!

The timetable, written in various languages, is on the board at the entrance to the city.

An interesting fact - if it seems to you that you have already seen the castle of Mont Saint-Michel somewhere, then you will be right - it was he who served as a model for the fortress of Minas Tirith, from the movie “The Lord of the Rings. Return of the King".

For tourists, access to the island itself is free, however, parking nearby is paid everywhere. Admission to the abbey for adults is also paid, while for children it is free. Well, one more thing, guided tours are paid.

Time to visit:

• summer period, from nine in the morning to seven in the evening;
• winter period, from half past eight in the morning to six in the evening.

Until something unique, unknown and super-interesting catches our eye, we will continue to stroll through the most famous. There is a chance that you will learn or see something new. Well, if not, then you can still look at such beauty many times :-)

Before the advent of man-built structures, Mount Saint-Michel was only a rock with steep slopes, eighty meters high. The granite of which it is composed is very tough and has not been eroded for thousands of years. Around Saint-Michel lay a dense forest, which is believed to be called the Sissi forest. Over time, under the pressure of the sea, the forest disappeared. According to legend, a real tsunami - a huge whirlwind of water and wind - changed the landscape at the beginning of the 8th century. So Mount Saint-Michel, together with the neighboring hill of Tombelin, seemed to be separated from the continent, turning into an island at the time of high tide. Three rivers flow along the sandy shores around the mountain: Se, Selyun and Kuenon. The latter is the border between Brittany and Normandy. A French proverb says: "Couenon lost his mind, which is why Mount Saint-Michel ended up in Normandy".

In times ancient romans Mont Saint Michel was not yet an island. The gloomy uninhabited rock washed by the waves of the Atlantic was then called the Grave Mountain - perhaps the Celts used this place for their burials. Druids came here to worship the setting sun, and the Romans subsequently preserved this ritual for a long time. In the rays of a luminary plunging into the sea, dazzling legends were born: according to one of them, it was on Mount Grave that Julius Caesar was secretly buried in a golden coffin, in golden sandals ...

In the 5th century, part of the coast sank under water, Grave Mountain turned into an island, separated from the mainland by an almost six-kilometer strip of sea. Only twice a day, at low tide, the sea exposed the muddy bottom and opened a dangerous passage to the island.

Mont Saint-Michel's own history began in 708, when the Archangel Michael appeared in a dream to a bishop from the town of Avranches and ordered to build a chapel on Mogilnaya Gora. At first, Aubert - that was the name of the bishop, later canonized - was seized with doubts: neither the first nor even the second appearance of the archangel convinced him. For the third time, the Archangel Michael, once again invading the priest's peaceful sleep, was surrounded by a formidable and majestic radiance: repeating his previous order, he hit the indecisive Norman on the forehead with a radiant finger. Awakening from sleep, Aubert felt a dent on the skull and, no longer hesitating, went to Mount Grave.

Miracles accompanied the construction chapels... A huge boulder that occupied a platform on the top of the mountain rolled down at the touch of a child's foot. A rocky island in the middle of the sea was devoid of fresh water. But Saint Aubert, who had already felt the miraculous touch of the archangel, struck the rock with his staff, and a healing spring gushed out from under it. And Michael himself, surrounded by heavenly radiance, occasionally appeared to the builders on dark, thunderous nights.

In 966, the first monks were replaced benedictines who adhered to the vows of poverty, chastity, obedience to the abbot. The property of the monastery gradually increased thanks to the financial assistance of the lords of Normandy, Brittany, Italy and England. A huge church was built on top of the cliff. In the hours free from prayer, the monks compiled, copied and studied manuscripts on literature, history and sciences.

At that time, Romanesque architecture reigned. Its distinctive features are powerful columns and giant arches that supported the vaults and frame. To strengthen the monastery walls, crypts-chapels were built on the slopes of the rock.

Since the Benedictine monks settled on Mont Saint-Michel, thousands of people began to come to the island to earn protection. Archangel Michael- the crusher of the devil, protecting from evil. Many died in the quicksands of the bay, drowned in tidal waves, never reaching the cherished goal. There is a legend about a woman who, in her last month of pregnancy, went alone to Mont Saint Michel. Coming to the coast of the bay and seeing ahead of such a close and alluring silhouette of the Mountain, she succumbed to the illusion and went through the sands, but did not calculate her strength: the distance was too great. The tide has begun.

The wind intensified, the foamy tongues of the rapidly approaching sea appeared from behind the Mountain. The woman realized that she was dying, lay down on the sand, preparing for death and begging the Virgin Mary for support. The roaring sea closed around her, but - lo and behold! - forming a semblance of a water tower, the waves did not even touch the poor woman. Remaining inside this wonderful "well", the woman resolved herself as a boy and, when the sea subsided, baptized her baby with sea water. The fishermen who went in search of the body were amazed to find her safe and sound with a baby in her arms. In memory of this miracle, which occurred in 1011, Hildeber, then abbot of the abbey, erected a huge cross in the bay. For a long time, he towered in the middle of the sand and waves, until the sea swallowed him ...

The bay of Mont Saint-Michel has always been famous for its tides- the difference between the highest and the lowest sea levels here reaches a record value of 15 meters. Due to the shallow depths and flat bottom, the sea retreats from the coast by 15-20 kilometers during low tide, but it usually returns back at a walking speed of about 4 km / h, although, they say, in some places with a strong tailwind, this speed can increase and up to 30 km / h. Legends about tides catching up with the rider, stories about carts disappearing without a trace along with horses in huge swells, descriptions of the terrible death of travelers caught in wet sand - what is more in all this, truth or fiction?

Low tide in the bay always begins somehow unexpectedly: until recently, everywhere, wherever you look, a whitish-muddy sea splashed, as sand of the same color appeared everywhere, by the cunning of which almost all French classics were "hypnotized" - from Hugo to Maupassant. This sand seems quite harmless until you descend on its treacherously unstable surface, all covered with puddles from recently receded water. The fact is that the sand of the bay is more like silt, it is dense when it dries up, but, mixing with water, turns into a viscous clay mass. The bottom is riddled with streams and streams in many places - and it is they, apparently, that pose a real danger. Streams of water easily liquefy the sand, and in the channels (as well as under the channels) of even small streams, those insidious swamps can form, which an overly arrogant traveler risks falling into. And although today near Mont Saint-Michel there are no such dramatic tides as before, few people risk going for a walk along the bottom of the bay, not knowing the "timetable" of the sea.

Over a thousand years, tides have brought so much sand to the bay that the coastline has advanced almost 5 kilometers westward, close to Mont Saint Michel. Humans completed this process by building a dam in 1879, on which cars now race. Today Mont Saint-Michel is a real island only 2-3 times a year, when especially strong tides sweep the highway. Thanks to the dam, the number of people visiting Mont Saint-Michel annually exceeds 2.5 million, high-speed TGV trains bring one-day excursionists here from Paris - but no more than a third rises to the very top of the Mountain, where the 11th century church and La Mervey Monastery are located. all arrivals.

radiation of pilgrimage to Mont Saint-Michel is rooted in the time of St. Auber, but even today people go to the Mountain not only paying tribute to fashion - many try to stay here for a few days. In the evenings, when the buses with tourists leave Mont Saint-Michel, the rue Grande Rue, leading upstairs, becomes less busy, the halls of the monastery are empty. These late afternoon hours are the best time to get acquainted with the architectural ensemble of Mont Saint-Michel.

Since its founding, several catastrophes have tested the abbey's existence. In 922 it was struck by a fire, in 1103 the upper parts of the nave of the church collapsed, in 1203 again the fire tried to destroy the monastery. Other disasters came from humans. A hundred years of war between France and England, together with an epidemic of plague, devastated the land. After the defeat of the French at Agincourt in 1415, Normandy was taken over by the British. In 1423 the islet of Tombelen was besieged by the British. The siege of Saint-Michel began in 1424, when the British decided to capture a rebellious bastion, protected by fortress walls and the sea, however, attempts were unsuccessful. Along the perimeter of the gulf, troops were stationed, a small fort was built opposite Saint-Michel, and a flotilla blocked the island from the sea. Throughout the Hundred Years War, Saint-Michel remained the only French territory in Normandy not captured by the British.

According to legend, Saint Michael helped the monastery to survive, appearing to Jeanne D "Ark and calling her to lead the rescue of France. The last attempt of the British to take the fortress in 1433 was unsuccessful, although a fire broke out in the city, wooden houses burned down and the walls were damaged.

The construction of the monastery church began in 1023 and lasted for almost a century. The tower and nave, built in the Romanesque style, have retained their original appearance. The church rose high above the Mountain (the spire on the tower, which is familiar to everyone, however, was not yet) and was immediately attacked by lightning. Large fires broke out on the island every 25-30 years. And after France annexed Normandy in 1204, the obstinate Mont Saint Michel was put on fire at the will of the people.

The old abbey was completely burnt down, and in 1211 the French king Philip II, apparently wanting to atone for his sin before the Archangel Michael and his burnt abode, began the construction of the famous Abbey of La Mervey(translated as "miracle"). In just 17 years - an incredible period for that time - an architectural masterpiece was created, which is now considered a generally recognized example of medieval Gothic.

Striking in its size, La Mervey is built on a narrow rock and therefore, unlike other monasteries, has a vertical structure: it consists of two three-storey sections. The eastern section, as conceived by the creators, was intended to satisfy bodily needs. On the ground floor there was a hall for the poorest pilgrims, here they had to live and eat. Above them - in the guest room - the abbot received and treated dignitaries, the third floor was a refectory for the monks. In the western section, the ground floor was occupied by a storage room. On the second was the Knights' Hall, which, with its huge ovens, actually served to heat the monastery.

This hall, originally called the scriptorium, was intended for working with manuscripts, but it was too dark in it, so the monks carried out all the manuscript work in the refectory, where an even and clear light poured from unusually narrow, high and closely spaced windows. The third floor in the west wing was occupied by a covered gallery - a kind of "haven of tranquility" intended both for reading and reflection, and for walks of the monastic brethren. The unique architecture of this gallery, as if hanging between heaven and earth, in the words of one of the monastery's chroniclers, "allowed the Lord to descend to man without losing his greatness."

During the Hundred Years War (1337-1453), Mont Saint-Michel, which was never taken by the British, inspired the famous Joan of Arc to feats, and after the war his fame went far beyond the borders of France. During this period, the hard-to-explain mass pilgrimages of children reached their peak. Leaving their homes and parents, thousands of boys and girls between the ages of 7 and 15 made their way to Mont Saint Michel. A mysterious heavenly call gathered them from all over Europe - from Poland and Flanders, Germany and Switzerland. They walked through France, lined up in a column in two, and chanted: "In the name of the Lord we are marching, we are going to Saint-Michel!" The adults were afraid to interfere with them. So, the father of one child, trying to stop him, exclaimed in his hearts: "In the name of the devil I conjure: come home!" - and immediately fell down dead. The mother of another young "pilgrim", who tried to hold him back by force, became numb and deaf. Many children died on the way, froze from the cold - their parents were terrified and confused. Finally, the religious authorities began to speak out with condemnation of such exaltation, and one German theologian generally called the heavenly call, prompting children to pilgrimage, "the voice of the devil."

At the beginning of the 16th century, the face of the city on the mountain changed. The viceroy of the French king completed the construction of the fortifications. The entrance to the town was protected by the city gates, fortified by a moat, drawbridges and lowering gratings. Then the abbey was embroiled in religious wars. Protestants tried to capture it. Knowing about the inaccessibility of the fortress, they decided to take it by cunning. Disguised as pilgrims, the Huguenots got inside, hid their weapons there and made the watchmen drink wine. Having revealed the intentions of the enemies, the abbot sounded the alarm, and the plan of the Protestants did not come true. Over time, the monastic life deteriorated, funds for the reconstruction of buildings became less and less. Later the fortress turned into a sea jail where the kings exiled recalcitrant aristocrats, priests, and politicians.

In 1469, King Louis XI established the knightly order of the Archangel Michael, and in 1472, he placed an iron cage for especially dangerous criminals in one of the dampest chambers of the monastery - the infernal invention of Cardinal Balyu. The cage was a palisade made of thick wooden rods, bound with iron, it was hung on chains from the vault, so that with every movement of the prisoner, the cage began to sway. The unfortunate ones who got into this cage had nothing to hope for - despite the efforts of the compassionate monks, they soon went crazy and died of hunger and cold. The cage regularly served the French kings for 300 years, one of the last to suffer in it was Victor Dubour, a journalist convicted in 1745 for a pamphlet on Louis XV. Dubour died a year after his imprisonment, and in 1777 the creepy cage was finally destroyed. Under Napoleon, the monastery served as a state prison, and only in 1863 the prison was closed, and Mont Saint Michel was declared national treasure.

During the French Revolution, the Benedictine monks were expelled from the Abbey of St. Michael, and the island became known as the "free mountain". In fact, the monastery was plundered. Romanesque stained glass windows were removed from here, and the abbey became just a prison that received political prisoners. The dungeon was abolished during the Second Empire, and in 1874 Saint-Michel became a "historic monument". From that moment on, new travelers - tourists began to come here. At the same time, the Benedictines arrived here, who founded new abbey... The restoration of the monastery began, the last important detail of its appearance was received by Mont Saint-Michel in 1897 - the tower of the cathedral was crowned with a neo-Gothic spire and a 500-kilogram gilded figure of Michael the Archangel. In 1900, construction of a pier that opened the way to Saint-Michel began. In 1965-1966. the monastery celebrated its millennium. In 1979, Saint-Michel was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

Mont Saint Michel is visible from afar. Day and night, the lonely silhouette of the Mountain, carrying a fabulous city, looms over the roofs of neat Norman houses. The spire directed into the sky is like the threatening finger of the Archangel. Perhaps he reminds us that the spirit of Mont Saint Michel remains as solid and unapproachable as it was hundreds of years ago.

Return of the sea
The dam broke the tidal regime well-established by nature, and the sections of the bay around Mont Saint-Michel began to fill with sand and silt. The former flooded meadows - polders - have long ago become a grassy shore, close to the island. Herds of Norman sheep have already “laid siege to” the walls of the historical monument, included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.

In order to restore Mont Saint-Michel to its former, legendary appearance, the construction of a tidal barrier has begun at the mouth of the Couenon River, which bends around the Mountain. The new dam will delay the ingress of silt into the river at high tide and facilitate its transport into the English Channel at low tide. Thus, the land around the abbey, which is constantly under water, will gradually be cleared of sedimentary rocks. The expensive project is expected to be completed next year.
With fully open sluices, the dam will be practically invisible. Later, when the sea returns, the old access dam will be replaced by a pedestrian bridge, car traffic on which will stop, and tourists wishing to visit the historical monument will be delivered to its territory by a special ferry.

Adjacent to Saint-Michel islet Tombélen, translated from French meaning "small grave", at one time was a modest likeness of the neighboring abbey. A monastery and a chapel were built there, where monks went in search of solitude. Gradually, it also turned into a fortress, in which, according to legend, King Arthur's bride Helene died, but was later destroyed by order of Louis XIV. Today it is a deserted island.

Walk in Mont Saint Michel

The island's buildings consist of monastic and secular buildings. All structures are surrounded by fortress walls with watch towers, erected in the 15th century. This is evidence of the establishment of the abbey's defensive system. The towers, interconnected by patrol routes, do not rise above the fortress walls, but are protected by them. In the horizontal loopholes were placed bombards - giant guns of the late Middle Ages. At the top of the mountain is a church, the construction of which began in the 11th century. The nave of the church was built in the Romanesque style, part of the cathedral was completed in the 15th century in the style of fiery Gothic. The spire of the church is crowned with a golden figurine of the Archangel Michael. In the abbey, it is worth seeing the gallery for walking monks, the Aquilon Hall, Robert de Torigny's apartments. This abbot of the monastery ordered the construction of premises overlooking the sea. Here he received guests, judged the monks.

An interesting monument is Church of Notre-Dame-sous-Terre, built in the middle of the 10th century, dating back to the pre-Romanesque period. Once it was in the open air, then its vaults were erected, then it was turned into a tomb. The Gothic part of the Abbey of La Mervey was built after the destruction of the 13th century to replace the monastery buildings of the Romanesque period. On the lower floor, food was handed out to the poor, on the second, in the living room, the abbot received influential visitors, and above was the refectory. The indoor gallery - the last floor of La Merveil - is a wonderful place to walk. This place is called the garden between the sky and the sea, as it overlooks the ocean. The arcades of the gallery are decorated with sculptures from Caen limestone.

Saint-Michel, like any old French city, has its own coat of arms... The coat of arms of the abbey depicts a scattering of black shells intertwined with the fleur-de-lis of France. The shells are reminiscent of the pilgrimage, as they were the hallmarks of the pilgrims. Lilies speak of the guardianship of the monastery and the fortress by the king of France. Sometimes, for decoration, a staff and miter were added, indicating the dignity of the abbey, equated to the bishopric. Each abbot had his own family coat of arms, which was often depicted on the stained glass windows of churches.

Monastery relics

The Abbey of Saint-Michel was famous for its relics - the golden statue of the Archangel Michael, its precious ancient manuscripts. The collection includes 203 manuscripts, 199 of which date back to the Middle Ages. Over time, the collection has become scarce. During the collapse of the abbey's library in 1300, some of the manuscripts were buried, while most of the relics were lost and plundered during the French Revolution. In 1882, an unknown visitor in a cassock took away a 14th-century missal. Today twenty manuscripts are scattered around the world, for example, a Romanesque Bible in two volumes is in Bordeaux. 203 manuscripts constitute the finest collection in Europe of the Romanesque era, a monument to the art of calligraphy. The manuscripts were compiled in the scriptorium, a room in the abbey, in which the monks received knowledge not only in theology, but also in philosophy, law, history, medicine, music, and even astronomy. The heyday of the creation of manuscripts fell on the XI century. However, soon, already in the XIII century, the decline began. The monks went to get education in Paris, and the manuscripts they brought were compiled by secular people. The manuscripts of the monks of Saint-Michel, original and one of a kind, are rightfully considered a world cultural heritage.

The nature of the bay

Many people come to Mont Saint-Michel not only to see the sights, learn the history of the monastery and admire the beautiful views of the ocean and the continent from the walls of the abbey. A breathtaking sight is the high tide, the amplitude of which (or rather, the difference between the low tide level and the high tide level in the water of the selected location) is considered to be the strongest on the entire European Atlantic coast. In a few hours, sea waves travel several kilometers, and their speed is incredible. In order not to miss the high tide hour, it is worth asking the tourist office for help upon arrival in Saint-Michel.

The bay is a unique nature reserve. Here 10 thousand tons of mussels are grown annually, and the vegetation occupies only 1% of its area, being, nevertheless, a pasture for 10 thousand sheep. Ducks and other birds come here, feeding on fertile silt. A "natural zone of ecological significance" has been established in this area. The bay is a crossroads of migration routes, a kind of international transit point for ash geese and black scurry ducks. In the waters of the bay, 80 species of fish are born, as well as the Risso dolphins, gray in color with small specks on their backs, the length of which reaches 3.5 meters. Every year about a dozen fur seals come here to breed their offspring here. However, the picture is not so idyllic. Saint-Michel runs the risk of finally merging with the continent, since the construction of polders for the needs of agriculture and animal husbandry significantly accelerates the onset of sand. In 1997, French Prime Minister Lionel Jospin approved a program to restore the original surrounding landscape in the bay. The goal is to stop the growth of the so-called natural prairies.

The French say that all roads lead to this architectural wonder. From Paris, Saint-Michel can be reached by TGV or by car to Rennes, then on the road towards Dol-de-Bretagne. About a million tourists visit Saint-Michel annually, they come here by train, car and bus. The car park is small, and there are a lot of people who want to stay. Climbing the mountain, you can see thousands of cars and buses. The entrance to the territory of the monastery is paid, for children under 12 years old it is free. The monastery is open to the public all year round, with the exception of some holidays (January 1, May 1, November 1, November 11 and December 25). There is a cafe on Mount St. Michael, 25 souvenir shops and three museums - the Maritime Museum, the Archaeological Museum and the History Museum. You can stay on the continent and in Saint-Michel itself.

Those who are impressed by the view of Mount Saint-Michel during the day should stay here until dark. At night, the island becomes even more mysterious. They say that the nights of Mount Saint-Michel are more beautiful than his days. The lines of sky, earth and sea merge, the landscape is illuminated by moonlight. During the day, you can appreciate the architectural and historical values, at night - spiritual. The excursion program also includes a night walk around the island.

To get to the complex of buildings of the abbey, you need to walk to the end of Grande rue and then climb the stone stairs. Most of the premises can be explored on their own, but the ticket price includes an hour guided tour (in French and English). There are 5-6 excursions per day. The latter starts half an hour before closing.

The abbey's layout is atypical. It was initially determined by the shape of the rock and the lack of building areas. The monks were forced to place the elements of the architectural complex on top of each other. The top of this kind of medieval "skyscraper" is the abbey church and the La Mervey (Miracle) group of buildings. There were no building materials on the rock either. Stones and bricks were brought here by sea during high tides, and then they were dragged to the top with the help of ropes.

Climbing the steep stairs to the entrance to the abbey, we find ourselves in guardroom (guardroom) where the ticket offices and information stands are located. Further, following the brown signs, we climb the stairs of Gran Degre to the terrace of Sautier and then onto the west terrace. It appeared in the 18th century. after part of the abbey church died in the fire. The terrace overlooks the bay, the island of Tomblain and the Chause archipelago, where granite was taken for the construction of the monastery. Every year on November 8 (St. Michael - autumn) from the terrace you can watch the sun setting behind Mount Dol. According to legend, on this day Saint Michael fought there with a dragon.

It is also clearly visible from here bell tower spire(1867, neo-Gothic, copy of the bell tower of Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris), crowned with a gilded figure of the Archangel Michael (sculptor Fremier).

Abbey church(Eglise Abbatiale, XI century, mass daily at 12.15) was built on top of a cliff at an altitude of 80 m above sea level. Its transept rests on rock, while the nave, choir and transepts are supported by the massive walls of the monastery structures below. The transept is oriented so that on May 8 (St. Michael is spring) the sun rises exactly behind the altar and moves across the sky along the main axis of the temple.

The classicist façade was added in 1763. At the entrance, notice the stone carved row of Mont Saint Michel - 10 seashells (scallops) and 3 royal lilies. The nave of the church is made in the Romanesque style, and the southern wall has been preserved since 1084, and the northern one was built after the nave collapsed in 1103. The vault of the nave was originally flat, and the modern wooden one was built in the 15th century. The place where the choir connects to the nave took its final form only in the 19th century: the dome of the middle cross (architect Petigran) with an opening, from where a ray of sun falls on the altar at noon, rests on four columns. The Romanesque choir collapsed in 1421, so in the 15th century a new choir was built in its place in the style of "Flaming Gothic". The choir of the Rouen abbey of Saint-Ouen was taken as a basis.

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From the gallery, a straight passage, illuminated by lamps, led to the seventh gate. Behind them was the Upper Courtyard, the famous reservoir with a fountain, and the White Tower, built in T.E. 1900. (rebuilt in T.A. 2698), which housed the palantir. (with)

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Let's go virtually around the castle! Click on the pictures below

The Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel is an architectural wonder of France. This site is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A unique monument of nature and architecture is a city built on a rock, which is located in a small bay. At high tides, the abbey of Mont Saint-Michel is cut off from the mainland.

The ancient architecture has survived on the island, despite the numerous sieges that he had to endure over the 1500 years of its existence. Chapels and fortress walls are of great interest not only from a historical point of view, but also from an engineering point of view. After all, inaccessible rocks in the Middle Ages were almost always cut off from the land by high sea waves, so the ancient builders had to overcome nature itself and show miracles of ingenuity to build this unique complex.

Expert opinion

Knyazeva Victoria

Guide to Paris and France

Ask an expert

Today France considers the abbey of Mont Saint-Michel one of the main tourist attractions in the country. It is the second most visited city in the state after Paris. Its population is less than 100 people, but annually the monastery and the surrounding areas are visited by up to 3.5 million tourists from different parts of the world.

general information

The island of Mont Saint Michel on the map is easy to find. It is located 285 km north-west of Paris, in the province of Normandy, almost on the border with Bretonne. The city on a rock is surrounded by a small bay, against which it rises more than 70 m. The bay seems to encircle the mountain from 2 sides, cutting it off from the flat land.

Twice a lunar day, which is 24 hours 50 minutes, you can observe a wonderful picture of how the sea water recedes, exposing the foot of the mountain and creating a natural passage to the island along the sandy bottom, and then floods it again.

However, it is strictly not recommended to walk in these places on your own. This is only possible when accompanied by a certified guide. Such strict rules are explained by the fact that the bay has an unstable bottom. In some places, it is formed by quicksand.

In addition, you should carefully study the ebb and flow schedule. After all, after a few hours, the water will begin to arrive at the rocks at the speed of a horse galloping. At the same time, the wave height can reach 14 m. In the area of ​​the castle of Mont Saint-Michel, the tide is considered the most powerful in the entire territory of Europe. Therefore, it is better to observe this amazing natural phenomenon at a safe distance.