Radio-controlled flight. Independent training flights

22.05.2021

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My Twin Dream is a radio-controlled aircraft model designed for long-range FPV flights.

The range of flight is 160 kilometers oriented, and the flight weight can reach 5 kilograms.

At the end of the article, you can see a video flight to a distance of 200 kilometers, the electronics configuration of the aircode and the calculation of power consumption is applied.

Avia model is the further development of multiplex TWINSTAR, has a more capacious fuselage and convenient to install FVP equipment nose.

Video overview aircode and first flight on it.

But a detailed video review of My Twin Dream in Russian.

Many believe that the MyTWindream radio-controlled aircraft is one of the best media for distant FPV flights.

FEATURES OF AVIA MODELS MY TWIN DREAM

Wing scope: 1800 mm
Fuselage Length: 1230 mm
Total height: 350 mm
Fuselage height: 160 mm
Maximum fuselage width: 134 mm
Empty Case Weight: 960 grams
Maximum take-off weight: 5,800 grams
Maximum flight time: 210 min
Maximum range: 160 km
Maximum speed: 150 km
Maximum flight height: 5000 meters
Material: EPO.

Avia Model is produced since 2015 and it can find a lot of information on it.

Equipment for the radio-controlled aircraft MY TWIN DREAM

Motors (2 pcs) 900 rev / volt: such or such.
Regulators (2 pcs): Such
Propelleys (2 pcs): Such
Battery: such or such
Servo (4 pieces): such or such
Servomatinians (4 pcs): Such

This is a basic configuration for long-distance, not not record flights.

FPV Equipment for My Twin Dream

Let's start with the main - term chamber and video seater.

Course chamber can be installed simple, without frills, well for these purposes Eachine 1000TVL CCD

Simple, in a shockproof building, a very strong camera with the possibility of night-night flights.

You can choose another, see Article 6 cameras for FPV flights.
I also recommend to see the Friendly Site section: cameras cameras for FPV flights. In this section, reviews are more than 60 coursework, there is something to choose!

Order Eachine 1000TV.L can be.

Landlocked video transmitter for radio controlled aircraft

A video transmitter for distant flights is better to take 1.3 GHz, at the same power, the signal at this frequency allows you to receive video at a greater distance.

Order a video speaker and video receiver 1.3 GHz 1500 MW can, 100 MW - or 800 MW.

With a directional antenna at the receiver (you will fly in one direction, it means that the omnidirectional pin is not needed on the prinic)) and the phrase of 400 MW people flies by 25-30 kilometers.

In the premium of cases, regular antennas have a shit quality, usually put a self-made vee antenna designed for a certain channel, and an antenna (square) is used to receive a directional patch.

However, in more cases, the newbie in distant flights already have equipment at 5.8 GHz, so we will consider the most common, who will decide on records - this part of the article still does not really interesting, and who wants to just fly far, usually wants to have compatibility And with other airmodrels and quadcopters.

For long-distance flights, video transmitters with a capacity of 1000-2500 MW are used. The receiver requires a directional antenna!

Order Video transfer for distant flights To: 1000 MW, 1500 MW or 2500 MW.
Antenna Directional 5.8 GHz: Spiral or patch.

Attention! When installing a video file, detect it and the RC signal receiver is as far away from each other !!!

In the budget approach it is possible to use video shops.

VR D2 Pro and EV800D have built-in diversities, while EV800D can be divided into the FPV monitor, but VR D2 Pro is a better built-in recording of the flight video.

For more information, see the article video shops for FPV flights. As well as in reviews: Eachine VR D2 Pro and Eachine EV800D.

Buy FPV video: Eachine VR D2 Pro or Eachine EV800D

Camera for recording flight video on aircraft model

In my opinion - there is a good optimal camera when flying to long distances, it is Runcam 2!

It has a more aerodynamic case than ordinary anger, can feed from an onboard battery directly (5-17 volts), it can be used and as a course (small FPV delay), look in more detail in the article Overview Runcam 2.

Order Ekshchenka Runcam 2 can .

But if you want to remove a beautiful video without swinging from the winds of the wind, then a three-axis stabilizer and Gopro or Gitup 2 are often installed.

Such a device will greatly increase the windshield and reduce the autonomy of the flight, but that you will not do for beautiful frames! :-)

The location of the suspension is chosen to their taste, the main thing is to keep the aircraft model center.

Order inexpensive suspension can .
Order an action: Gitup 2 or Gitup 3 Duo.

Autopilot for radio controlled aircraft

Since long flights are accompanied by the risk of signal loss, then for minimizing the risk of transformation of radio-controlled aircraft models in the freight-free autopilot needed!

This is not a mandatory requirement, many fly without it, but there is a difference - the aircraft model will return to the point of takeoff or you will have to look for it 10-100 kilometers from the take-off point. The first requires the investment of money, the second time and does not have a noodle probability of loss of all equipment installed on the plane.

Be sure to put a GPS tracker !!!

Even with the autopilot, your dunnut aircraft may not reach the point of take-off (for example, we return against a strong wind, which changed the direction after your departure). Search is easier when you have GPS planting coordinates + recorded flight video (write on video).

Without a trackcker and without autopilot - do not fly further a kilometer from the point of take-off!

Video location video using GPS Trekker

Order GPS Trackker You can either.

It is better to take the first option - he has an external nutrition (12-100 volts) + built-in battery. Sturdy shockproof design, even with a total paint with a couple of kilometers of height, he will be able to transfer the point of its location.

But, back to the pool controllers.

Optimal for Novich is considered autopilot FY-41AP Lite. He, though old, but flies almost "from the Corbby without settings."

Supports "Car Range", "Air Fence", "Flight by points". About this autopilotus is achieved by a great dissiskey on our aircraft forum.

Order Autopilot FY-41AP Lite can .

Control Panel for Dalnal Plane

In my opinion, Taranis is the optimal radio control equipment for flights. She has very great opportunities through the use of Lua scripts, poems on bearings, precision resistors giving accurate response response and much more.

For opportunities, it exceeds expensive (60-80 TR) control panels from brand firms.

In addition, Frsky Taranis regularly allows you to fly by 1.5-2 km against the standard 850-900 meters from any other radio control equipment at 2.4 GHz.

Order Frsky Taranis can .

If you are not needed on the back and you want to use a budget control panel, then your choice is Flysky!

This is the most budget full-fledged control panel!

Order Flysky FS-I6 can .

In any case, for distant flights you will have to modify your control panel.

The easiest option is to install a LRS module and receiver at a frequency of 433 megahertz. This frequency in Russia is permitted for household purposes. With the help of such modules and are made by 50 kilometers from the take-off point.

Order LRS module with receiver can .

If you have a tarani - then you just insert the LRS transmitter into the socket of the external RF module and everything! The receiver is connected as usual.
In the case of FRSKY - you have to work a soldering iron.

Well, with the base electronics for the aircraft with a distant flight, they can now talk about the flights themselves on this aircode.

Flight by 200 kilometers on the radio-controlled plane My Twin Dream

Electronics installed on aircraft model:

Motors: (2x) 470KV MN3110-26 T-Motors
Battery: 31500mAh 6S Liion (2654 grams)
Regulators: (2x) 40A YEP ESCS - Set to AFW AND WORKED FLAWLESSLY FOR 62 FLIGHTS SO FAR.
Propellers: (2x) Aeronaut Cam Power Props 10x6 (AER7226 / 22)
Control Panel: Taranis X9D Plus
Flight controller: Eagletree Vector W / GPS V2
Ground module: Eagletree Eagleeyes Diversity and Multi Video Splitter
Boarding: Castle Creations 10a Bec

Far Flight Characteristics:

Flight weight: 4617 grams
Distance to reversal: 103.6 km
Total distance distance: 212.9 km
Flight time: 3h 54 min 31 seconds
Top consumption: 21849 mAh
Mach consumption / km: 21849 mAh / 212.9 km \u003d 102.63 mAh / km

As you can see - flying 100 kilometers from the point of takeoff and return on this aircode, it is quite possible!

Good Muscovites are a lot of model professions in the city, there is a newcomer with whom to learn from anyone. Well Pieters - they also have a lot of people. All well, who lives in large cities. And what about those who live far from major models?

The model is built, the equipment is installed and debugged, and everything seems to be ready for flight. But ... problems arise when you start to understand that you have to teach you no one. And point to errors too. So you have to learn to us - on someone else's experience and our own "cones."

First of all, we will learn to manage the model in the simulator - mainly in order to fix the transmitter knobs in the memory of the movement and understand the reaction of the model.

Then we will have a suggestion model preparation on the eve of the flight day.

And finally, let's go to the field - learn to fly.

The benefits of the simulator

Goal

Bringing to the automatism of movements of the transmitter handles when managing the model takes time. If you practice this at the airfield, on the flying model, 90% of the time you take the hobby will take repair of a broken aircraft - in flight it is necessary not to think that where to pull it, but without thinking. Therefore, the simulator seems to be an ideal tool of savings as time and money in teaching.

What should I learn in the simulator to the first departure on the flying field?

to learn and bring to the automatism of the movement of the transmitter handles when managing the model
learn to keep the model in the horizon when moving both "from yourself" and "to yourself"
learn to exercise ideal takeoff and landing (without a "goat")

With the successful end of learning in the simulator, you will have a good chance of not split the model in the first flight.

It is only necessary to remember that when moving the handle of the aileron to the right, the right (if you look at the mode of the model), the aileron should rise, left - to descend. In this case, the model gives the right roll, and vice versa.

With the deviation of the directional control knob to the right, the direction of the direction deflects to the right, turning the model again to the right.

When moving the handle of the height of the height "on itself", the height wheel rises up, and the model begins to move up. "From yourself" - down.

Gas handle: When moving the handle "From yourself", the damper of the carburetor opens, and the engine increases the turnover. In the extreme position of the handle "on yourself" - idle.

Methods

So, we installed the simulator, connected the transmitter to the computer and set the roll deviations. You can learn.

It is hardly worth painting every movement with handles for each maneuver model - it is intuitive. They gave gas - flew, wanted to decline - the height wheel down, the gas is closed. Let us dwell on the most important features of models management.

The main management bodies of the model - the height and aileron steering wheel. If you have an aleroons, the direction steering wheel performs auxiliary functions and is required only on takeoff. Maybe it is better not to use it at the initial stage. And without him there is enough worries.

If there is no aleron, the direction steering wheel becomes the main and only means of control in the course, and in this case it should be connected to aerona control channel.

Never pull the handles - in the literal sense of the word. Movements must be soft, smooth and completely by "slightly". For example, you need to make a turn. Smoothly I reject the aileron handle towards the reversal of 5 ... 10% of its stroke, no more. And - wait. The model begins to increase the roll in this direction. Upon reaching the right roll smoothly Return the aileron knob to neutral, and the loss of height in the roll compensate for smooth and very minor movement of the height handle of the height "on itself". Different models behave differently during turn, and to maintain a permanent roll may require additional deviation of the aileron. This is most often happening in the case when the model tends to returned to the horizontal position.

Special attention should be paid to the effort of flight "to yourself." In this case, the ailerons and the steering wheel of the direction work "on the contrary" - with the dacha of the steering wheel, the model flying to you is right to the left! So you try to fix the left roll of the model flying at you will unwittingly give the steering wheel to the right. But right to actually turn the model rightIf you look from the tail! And you look from the nose. The result is even greater roll, spiral and firewood, if not understand it on time. However, the time to figure out most often no ...

How to bring to automatism management when flying "to yourself"? Three options:

submit
"To sign" the handle of the ailerons then the wing, which leaned the model
turn the face along the model, looking at her over the shoulder

The "final exam" in the simulator "fleece school" will appear the exemplary flight - takeoff, the flight in a circle, "eight" in the horizontal plane, approach "on the box" for landing and landing itself. Landing in the simulator should be worked out ideally! In real conditions, it is a little more complicated, and the ideal "computer" landing will mean a good "real".

Possible mistakes

Among the most common mistakes of newcomers are such:

convulsive "jerk" pens. Error Correction: Permanent Motion Character Control.
so-called "Checking" - you let the model for a large distance, and "hit", being unable to correctly assess the position of the model. Error correction: constantly monitor the model remoteness. You always need to have a flight plan in my head. You must direct the model, and not she.
"Hanging" on landing - when the model reaches a critical low speed at a very high height. Characteristic signs - when landing in a meter above the ground, the model coars the nose or falls on the wing. Correction of the error: Do not take the height steering wheel too much "on yourself" when approaching the surface, and most importantly - do not be afraid of the earth! The fear of the impending land is the most common cause of "hanging".

For everyone in different ways, but on average, it is possible to move to real flights when you never broke the plane from the thirty-forty.

On the simulator you can not only learn to fly. By changing the settings, you can see signs of rear centering, lack of thrust of the motor, reaction to the side wind. You can work the goat on landing. One of the main positive side effects of the simulator - you can get the experience of determining that something is wrong in the model. For independently studying it is very important!

One on the simulator, unfortunately, it is impossible - to work the eye to determine the distance to the model and its speed. The eyemeter will have to train directly on the field.

Profit preparation

We learned to fly on the simulator, and now we can rush to the airfield. As usual, "the flight begins in the workshop" (© G. Mile).

Preparation of model

Before first flight, it is necessary to carefully examine and check the model. Engine and all equipment must already be installed in the model. Before checking, it is quite reasonable to put the batteries of the transmitter, receiver, the battery panel or running, if available.

Centering. The training model center must be within 25-27 percent of the chord of the wing. On the training models, the wing spar is usually held in this place. More important (\u003e 30%) will make a model almost uncontrollable for a beginner. It is better to high anterior centering than at least a little rear. Moving the batteries inside the fuselage, you can bring the center to the value you need.

Horizontal balancing. The model must be balanced relative to the fuselage axis. If any wing outweighs, then you need to add a loader (piece of lead or coin) to the end of a easier console.

Wing. The wing should not have a twist, distortion or other deformations. It is possible to fix a bit by pulling the wing plating film using a hair dryer. If you fail to correct the situation, you will have to fully disassemble and redo the wing.

On models with a connector wing - first of all these are gliders - special attention should be paid to the identity of the attack corners with the left and right consoles.

Symmetry and angles. Next, you should check the symmetry and angles of the installation of the wing and stabilizer. The distances from the stabilizer legs to the corresponding wing legs should be the same. The angle of installation of the keel relative to the stabilizer should be 90 degrees. In addition, it is necessary to observe the perpendicularity of the axes of the wing and the stabilizer of the longitudinal axis of the fuselage, as well as the parallelism of the axes of the wing and the stabilizer, as shown in the pictures:

Rule expenses. Expenditures or, in other words, the maximum angles of the deviation of the steering surfaces must be installed in accordance with the recommended manufacturer of the model. If you built a plane in drawings, then follow the recommendations of the author. But in any case, expenses should not exceed 15-20 degrees in each side for the steering of height and 15 degrees in each direction for the aileron. The steering wheel of the direction at the first flights will not be required, but for confident taxiing when it is desirable, its deviation at an angle of about 25 degrees is desirable.

Fastener. Make sure the reliability of the attachment of all the thrust coming from the steering machines to the control surfaces. If you have plastic latching attachments, it will be worth it to further consolidate them with the help of a segment of a silicone tube, dressed on the "mustache".

All power steering slots must be securely connected to the receiver, and he himself, like the battery itself, should be packed in a fairly thick and tight foam in order to avoid strong vibrations and damage from shock.

The location of the receiver and batteries. Here is the only rule - ahead along the model - battery, and behind him receiver! Otherwise, when the aircraft falls the battery, moving along inertia, breaks everything that will be on her way.

Antenna receiver. Must be fully deployed inside the fuselage. If it is longer, then its tip must be left outside, but in no case do not crop it! This will lead to a sharp decrease in the range of the radio control system.

Engine mount. The engine must be securely attached to the motor. It should also be paid to the fastening of the muffler and propeller. Do not forget to attach the pressure sampling tube into the tank.

Engine shutdown trimmer. To drown out the motor, you must completely close the carburetor damper. To do this, set the transmitter correctly. If you have computer equipment with electronic trimmers, adjust the engine shutdown to a specific toggle switch (the function is usually called Throttle Cut). If you have mechanical trimmers, then check that when the gas trimmer is completely lowered, the damper is completely closed. This will give you the opportunity at any time to drown the motor. Without this setting, do not attempt to start the engine.

Engine shots. To compensate for the motor torque, its shaft is installed at an angle to the fuselage axis - approximately 2 degrees down and 1.5 to the right. More accurate values \u200b\u200bcan be obtained from the drawings of the model. If your plane is ARF, then carefully read the instructions - if no recommendations are not specified, then the manufacturer is installed. It is not critical for the first time, but then you still may have to make an adjustment.

Be very careful at this stage. Check out everything to what your eyes and hands can get - this is one of the safety conditions.

Before first flight, it is necessary to complete the procedure for running your new engine. The necessary recommendations are in its operating instructions.

Do not forget the flight box

That, in addition to the model, we will need another, told in article about the flight box.

Learn to fly

From this point on, the story is divided into three similar, but still different branches. Next, it is described about the methods of independent tests and trained flights on models with DVS, models with electric drive and glider.

Here you have taken from home everything you need for flights, got to the nearest field and even managed to collect the plane. What should be paid to now, so that the first flight does not become the last because of any little things?

Check before flying

Centering. Check again, before refueling the tank, the center of the aircraft - remind - it should be within 25-27% of the chord of the wing. It makes sense - at home you might before checking forget to install rechargeable batteries, propeller or kok. Correction can be corrected a bit by moving onboard batteries. But do not forget - ahead batteries, behind the receiver!

Neutral rolls. Turn on the transmitter first, and then the receiver on the plane and leave the handle in the neutral position. Check again the neutral position of all steering surfaces - they could change due to the fact that you were inadvertently shifted by trimmers on the transmitter, the traction could be brought when transported, more and more than at home, temperature and humidity on the field, sometimes cause neutral displacement machines.

If the steered is visually not in a neutral position - be sure to correct them, it is desirable not by the help of trimmers - just we will need them. It is better to adjust the length of the thrust, and the trimmers are left in a neutral position.

Important remark - after trimming the aircraft in the air, the steers may be not in the neutral position! More to shift them in neutral should not be!

Is everything fixed? This is what should be checked first: the reliability of the wing, engine, muffler, batteries, the receiver, as well as all the thrust and fasteners to the steering surfaces. Any play or the smallest, but not until the end, the twisted bolt can cause an accident.

If you fit out any part of the model, check the reliability of the fastening of the "sore" once again.

If the wing is attached to rubber bands, then use the recommended amount of rubber to this - no longer. It is necessary to wear them. Cross-cross-time is more reliable.

It will be worthwhile to raise and shake the model - if you hear something else, except the brazer's knock in the tank - it is better to find the reasons and correct the defects.

Attention! Do not forget to properly connect the steering machine of the Aeronov in the wing. This is one of the most popular "forgetfulness", leading to an accident.

Verification of equipment. Ful up completely antenna, then turn on the transmitter after it receiver. Without pulling out the antennas, go away from the model for 25-30 meters, move with handles and check that the steering machines did not start trembling and confidently work out your teams. If they are randomly twitching or respond to the transmitter commands, it is possible that the transmitter is faulty or the source of interference is in your range. Try changing the frequency or find yourself another place for flights. Possible interference sources - high-voltage power lines, railway, military units, etc.

On the models of the electrels, it is necessary to check whether the radius of the equipment is reduced when the engine is turned on. When this malfunction is detected, take measures to reduce the level of interference by the engine.

If everything is in order, check the correct direction of the movement of the steering surfaces. The control knob "on itself" - the height steering wheel is deviated, the handle of the airone control to the right - the right airone rises, the left is lowered (if you look at the model from the tail side). Rule control knob Left - The direction steering is deviated to the left. Gas control knob "from itself" - the carburetor opens completely.

Installation of propeller. It is important proper installation and fixing of the propeller. When you scroll through it with your hand and feel compression compression, the propeller must be placed horizontally! Any other position of the propeller can lead to his breakdown with a rough landing. After you drag the engine, the propeller flows the incoming air to the start of the compression phase - in the horizontal position - it is the safest for it, even if the model is lined with landing.

Be sure to check whether the propeller fastening nut is tightened!

To fulfill the first flight outlet, we choose a clear sunny day with a weak wind - no more than 1-3 meters per second.

Models with DVS.

Running and engine adjustment

Fill the tank with fuel, unscrew the needle adjusting the mixture into the manufacturer recommended by the manufacturer to start the engine, fully open the carburetor flap and close it with your finger. Scroll the propeller several times in order for the engine to get fuel (5-10 revolutions). Next close the flap to 1/4 of the position, check that there are no wires or other items in the propeller rotation field and plug in the heat. If you have a starter, then we start it (Introducing the polarity of the connection), if not, then you have to hand, scrolling the propeller counterclockwise (if you look at the model from the engine side). Wound Give it a few seconds to warm up, smoothly open the damper completely and disconnect the heat. Lift the model to the nose up and steps 2 clicks with pauses Start twisting the needle of the adjustment of the mixture until the engine comes to maximum speed. After that, unscrew it by two clicks back is its optimal position. Next you need to adjust idle. To do this, lose the speed to the minimally stable, allow the engine to work 5 seconds, and fully open the damper (1.5-2 seconds, but not sharply). If the engine "spits" and gains momentum with jerks - it is necessary to detect small gas, tightening the idling bolt by 15 degrees. If, when opening the flap, the engine begins to quickly gain momentum, but further resets them and stalls - the mixture is poor - unscrew the idling bolt by 15 degrees. After setting, the engine must smoothly and quickly respond to moving the gas control knob.

All idle adjustments must be performed only on the shredded engine!

Possible problems with the start of the engine:

Insurufficate glow on the candle. When the heat is connected, the spiral should glow raspberry. In any case, it is better when with a bright sun first twine candle as it were not to be consistent. This can be checked on a spare candle.
Engine "Restalit". Symptoms - from the exhaust pipe dripping fuel, when scrolling the propeller, the "chamber" sound is heard. Remove the intensity, tighten the fuel needle completely, turn the model to the carburetor down and scrolling the propeller in the opposite direction to pour the excess fuel.
In the engine there is an insufficient amount of fuel. Learn it is very simple. Connect the heat into the candle and take a hard hand for the blade (as a precipitant key), then slowly scrolling to go through the upper dead point (overcoming compression). If the engine is enough for fuel, you will feel the "flash". If there are no flashes, it says either about the absence of fuel, or about the candle fault. Drink fuel, and if the engine still does not give signs of life - check the candle.
The propeller is very difficult scrolling. Engine "flood". No way attempt to start it! First, pour extra fuel from it, as described in paragraph 2.

You can recommend the following method - before running, pour out 1 cube of fuel into the carburetor from the syringe. Scroll down the propeller several times, plug in the heat and start. This is the average optimal amount of fuel required by the engine to start.

If there are problems with the setting of the already running engine:

Forgot to connect the pressure sampling tube into the tank. Check and connect to silencer.
Foreign objects or garbage in the tank. Disassemble and check.
The fuel system is notching. Remove the tank, plug all the tubes except one, pour into it and clamp so that the tank is under pressure. Wait 20-30 seconds and release - if the air with a whistle crashes - everything is in order. Just do not forget that the fuel is poisonous, and it is necessary to blow into the tank, but, for example, a medium-sized subject ...
Fuel foams from a strong tank vibration and goes with bubbles in the carburetor - rub the tank of foam on all sides.

It is important the quality of the fuel you use. Elected-quality or erzats fuel can lead to problems with starting, setting up and even to break the engine parts.

It is best to use fuel made of 80% methanol and 20% of castor or special synthetic oil. 5-10% Nitromethane will improve the launch and transition modes of the motor.

Pay special attention to security!

All settings, pumping the fuel, or pouring it out of the carburetor only when the candle is turned off! The stunned engine can start spontaneously when scrolling the propeller (due to the residual high temperature of the combustion chamber and candles, even when the candle is turned off) - be careful - let the engine cool!

Be careful when starting the engine. It is desirable that the model holds the assistant, if there is no such - hold the hand tightly. Modern model engines develop a fairly large static craving.

Your clothes should not have opened and unfluous parts, chatting scarves, mittens, strap from the transmitter, everything that can get into a rotating propeller. In breast pockets should not be anything outstanding, which might fall when the slope above the model.

The rotating propeller can cause very severe injuries that models are mostly obtained only due to inattention or carelessness. Carefully work with your hands - when the engine works on full revs, the diameter of the propeller is very bad - it is easy to please it with your fingers. The injury will be unpleasant: with plenty of red and very painful.

Filty!

So the long-awaited moment came to which you were so stubborn. We start the engine, put the plane to the strip (or any wide and more or less smooth track). Press the tail of the model between the legs so that the stabilizer was behind you, check the engine pickup, is once again the correct operation of all steering surfaces. Reset gas.

Rule. It is time to learn how to control the aircraft on the ground. Smoothly and quite slightly increase the turnover so that the model starts the movement and try to ride in a straight line, turn around and ride back. For models with a nasal rack - the task is not so simple, as it seems at first glance (be careful - with a sharp turn, the model can fall to the side). What needs to be done now: put the trimmer of the steering wheel, so that the model is straightforward when the handle is cleaned. Also, it may be necessary to reduce the angles of the turning wheel deviation so that the model has reacted smoothly smoothly.

Keep track of the model speed, and reset gas on time - at this stage you do not need to take off. After you can correctly and promptly manage the movement of the model on Earth, you will have more chances not to call when you take off to roadside bushes. Although, to be honest, it will not cost it. Be prepared that the first few attempts to fly will turn your plane to the roadside lawn mower. Nothing terrible - it happens to everyone.

Flight Plan. For each flight, you need to have a clear plan in my head. Most accidents occur due to inconsistency and lack of an action plan in flight.

Our first flight plan:

Take off, set of height, reversal 180 degrees, horizontal flight in the opposite direction by itself, turn 180 degrees, horizontal flight, ... and so on. Horizontal flight with reversal - here is your first task. Then - landing.

Takeoff. Well, ready? Fill the tank, start the engine, check the motor pickup and steering surfaces again. It's time to look at your psychological state. This is usually strong excitement and irrepressible trembling in the knees. Oddly enough, but it will not be possible to wait. Some deep breaths, complete collens - and started.

It will not be reminded that it is necessary to take off strictly against the wind. No side! Determine the direction of the wind will help the silk rope, tied to the tip of the antenna.

Give a lot of gas - the model will start accelerate, while it will try to deviate from the straight movement - here your task is to keep it in the direction of takeoff, against the wind. It is necessary to do it very small deviations of the steering wheel. Be careful - at high speed, the model will be very sensitive to control. If you understand that you cannot hold it on direct, lose gas and start everything from the beginning.

After the model picks up the speed, smoothly, quite a bit, give the handle of the height of height. But not completely - otherwise you can immediately make a loop and put the plane to the nose to the ground. The model itself will break away from the ground and the height set will begin, after it reaches the necessary take-off speed.

At this point, a small roll may arise, which must be "gently", but confidently and quickly parry with aileron. Try to keep the elevation angle constant using the height steering wheel. After a set of 40-50 meters of height, reset the gas half and go to the horizontal flight.

Take off with hand. It is significantly different from take-off from the strip, and if you still have the opportunity to take off the chassis, it is better to use it. How it's done?

Your assistant holds a model with two hands, above his head, strictly against the wind. Give the full gas and once again check the correct operation of the steering surfaces. The assistant makes a small running and pushes the model, leaking from the hands at an angle of 10-15 degrees to the horizon. The task is nontrivial, especially if you and your assistant do it for the first time. After the assistant releases the model - in no case do not pull the transmitter knobs sharply! Before the aircraft gives sufficient speed, your task is smooth, but confident fast and short movements to parry the resulting roll by Ailerones and maintain a permanent, but a fairly small elevation set. After a set of 40-50 meters, reset the gas half and go to the horizontal flight.

180 degrees and horizontal flight. After a set of height and transition to a horizontal flight, it is time to make a reversal of 180 degrees. In order to make a turn, give a small roll by Ailerones towards the turn and take the height stick. The plane will start unfolding. Running speed control the deviation of the height steering wheel.

Remember: sharp and "squeezed" movements of the control knob will only lead to an accident.

After the reversal (do not forget to remove the roll of the aircraft - for you, he is unlikely to do it), you will fly past yourself in the wind. Meters through 200 again, turn 180 degrees reversal and fly against the wind. At this stage, the main thing is to try to hold the model at a constant altitude and follow possible roll.

Do not let the model fly away - otherwise it will be difficult to determine what is happening when instead of the model you see a small point. There is a chance to "break down".

If you feel that you can not cope with the model or can not align it (yes in general in any critical position), quickly lose the gas to the minimum and release all control knobs in neutral, it will reduce the flight speed (as well as drop from fall) and give you Ability to figure out how the model is relative to the earth ...

Probably, you will immediately notice that the aircraft constantly leads up or down, the crint left or right. It is time to sterriate it.

Trimming. Suppose the model is constantly descended and its cribs left. To compensate, you need to shift the trimmer of the height of the height gradually 2-3 clicks until the model stops the altitude independently. Roll to the left compensate for the thrimmer of Aeronov, shifting it on the right side. Trimming are performed when the model flies strictly against the wind - it will make it much easier for you.

Landing. For the first flight, a couple of minutes with trimming attempts. However, if in fifty seconds you feel that you cannot cope with the model, time has come for landing. Remove the meter model to a hundred in the wind and take a turn 180 degrees.

Landing, like takeoff, is performed strictly against the wind. The place of your first landing should be grass, and not a concrete strip - even if the landing is not very successful, the consequences will be much smaller.

Muffle the engine using a trimmer or a specially programmed switch on the transmitter. Try to make the model flying past you at a distance no closer than 30 meters - it will be easier for it to manage it. The aircraft will begin the hollow decline in which it is best not to interfere - even if the model clearly unlocks the estimated point of landing or flying it. When the aircraft will be 1.5-2 meters from the ground, start a very smoothly reduce the rate of reduction with the helm of the height - take it "on yourself" do not make sharp movements - otherwise the model will dry the nose, will lose speed and nodes to the ground will bounce And again dresses his nose. Next will happen again. Such a "sinusoid" to plant it safely and preservation is unlikely to succeed.

Do not forget to parry the resulting roll, otherwise the plane falls away, and clings to the ground with a wing. When the model goes down to a height of less than a meter, no longer worth doing any height steering wheel. Let better the landing speed be a little more than you get the model after the "quive" nose. Touch. Here, actually, and that's it! Do not turn off the transmitter - run to the landing site! First, turn off the onboard power of the model, and only then the transmitter.

The results of the first flight. The most difficult thing in the first flight is to correctly sterriate the model and make your first landing. Competently and with minimal consequences it will make you only an experienced instructor. Did you do everything? Congratulations. If, on your joy, the model remained the whole and unharmed, then before the next departure does not hurt again to make a full inspection and verification of the model, as well as all its elements. In the meantime ... while it is better to sit on the grass, finally relax and completely scrolling in the head all the whole flight. What exactly turned out to be the hardest? What should be paid attention to next flight?

Well, the last warning: if you consider in your first flights that you manage to manage the model well enough and ready to "join the loop or barrel - we hurry you to assure - back you are lucky plane in a very small package. Better learn first correctly and safely plant a model.

Plannel

If you have chosen as a model for learning a glider, do not forget to learn how to manage it in the simulator. The glider has one large difference from any other models - he has no motor. Therefore, by itself, he will not fly, no matter how try.

Flying in the simulator, note that the glider has some minimal speed, below which it begins the nose or falls on the wing. The real radio-controlled glider behaves in the same way. Remember it well, and, flying, always keep the speed slightly greater than the dumping rate. However, the glider himself perfectly chooses the speed of the decline itself, and you can only not interfere with it to do it, too much raising the steering wheel of the height.

For flights on the glider, you need to choose a day with a small smooth wind.

Setting up model

Before you fly, you need to execute the glider. In addition, it is advisable to figure out what the model speed of the model is in order to do not throw it too much or too much when starting with your hands.

First, let's run. Until we need to manage the model, so we turn off the power, and the transmitter is set aside. We take the glider for the fuselage in the center of the center of gravity, and, gradually overclocking, running against the wind, holding a glider horizontally - i.e. So, how he must fly.

At some point you will feel that the glider stopped at least to weigh anything, and flies himself. Relieve your fingers, continuing to run synchronously with the model, but do not remove the hand and in no case do not push the model !!! Be prepared to pick up the glider again if he declines to deviate from the straight line. Give the model to fly a few meters, catch it again. Repeat the experiment several times.

We analyze the results of jogs. First, we defined the flight speed of the glider - at this speed and we will run it at the first starts with the hands. Secondly, if you have noticed a duplicate to run a tendency of the model to roll into the same side or down or lower the nose, it's time to enable the transmitter and receiver and move the corresponding trimmer to compensate for the effect. Of course, this is done only after re-checking on the twist. If any wing or plumage currency showed, it is better to fix it at home. After the trimmer is rearranged, we repeat a series of runs. It is necessary to achieve a smooth rectilinear decline in the glider - the glider flies straight and smoothly, and your hand follows him without touching it. Have achieved? Now you can fly.

Flying with hands

In principle, you can fly alone. But it is better that the buddy goes with you, whom you ask to launch a glider with your hands, and you will steer yourself. Pluses two: first, the hand is not tired, and secondly, you can fully focus on management.

The purpose of flights (or rather, takepoint) with the hands is as follows:

get used to the feeling of control flying model
feel the reaction of the model to your teams
learn to maintain a straightforward movement of the model - with constant speed and course

It is made extremely simple. Turn on the transmitter, then the receiver. Once again, check the correctness of the steering. We run up and release the model. I do not push, namely, we are released - for this, it is clear, you need to run with the speed of the model flight. The glorical nose must be directed slightly into the ground, right or left roll when the start must be avoided. Your task is smooth, "millimeter" movements of the handles compensate for the possible deviations of the model from the course - let it flies in a straight line from us. Keep in mind that the glider is most likely to respond very well to the deviation of the height of the height (more inactive with it!) And with a small delay - to deviate the steering wheel of the direction or the alero.

Repeating this process of an ennone number of times, you will understand how the behavior of the model with the commands you are connected.

As a rule, with a careful approach, correctly chosen weather and minimal luck, grabs one day, to confidently feel when controlling the glider, brushed with the arms. At the same time, the model remains the whole or receives only insignificant damage.

Key points:

sharp squeezed movements of the handles are unacceptable - only smooth minor deviations.
do not "eradicate" the nose of the glider - i.e. Do not take too much "on yourself" the steering wheel of height. Otherwise, you "suspend" the model, and it will "bend" to the nose to the ground.
do not interfere with the planner to fly. He himself knows how well - training gliders are best flying themselves, and the pilot intervention is only needed to perform reversal.
when starting with the hands, you can not "flush", "throw", "throw" model. The correct start is a jog with a glider until it takes place.

If you see that they squeezed everything possible from the flights with the hands, it's time to move to these flights.

Start with Leera

Since the glider does not have its own engine, additional energy is needed to raise it to height.

To do this, we will use Leer - a line with a diameter of 0.8 ... 1.2 mm and a length of 150-200 meters. Nothing terrible at first, if you have to tie Leer from several shorter pieces. At the end of Leore, clinging for the glider, the flag or parachutic from a bright fabric is attached - it will signal about the groove of a glider with a leather.

The glider is launched as a snake - the one who delays the model holds the fishing line in one end and runs towards the wind. The one who releases the model holds a glider, fixed by the end of the end of the Leera, and runs synchronously with tightening. After a small jogging, the glider begins to rise. The tightening runs until the glider gains the maximum height. After that, the glider is uncovered from Leore. For this, the delay must stop and weaken Leer, who himself jumps off the hook on the glider.

If the speed of the tightening lacks for a tightening of the model - for example, in the calm, the tightening is used through a block or even the block system. In this case, the end of Leore, who would have to be in the hands of the tightening, is attached in the ground, and the glider is towed through the block. With such a tightening, the speed of towing doubles, but also an effort that has to be attached to the tightener is also doubled.

What if you do not have an assistant? In this case, we take the rubber harness with a cross section of 10 ... 15 square meters and a length of about 30 m. One of his end is fastened in the ground, the second is tied to the end of the end, which would have to be in his hands at the tightening. We cling to the glider to the layer, we turn on the equipment - and move down the wind of meters by 60-70, stretching the rubber. We produce a glider, which in ten seconds dials the required height.

In fairness It is worth saying that the start with the rubber catapult, as a rule, makes it possible to achieve a smaller height than the tightening on the lear helper.

Actually, in the start with Leera there are no special difficulties - try only to explain to the assistant, who drags the glider, what needs to be done, but hold the glider on the course "Strictly Up".

Landing a properly configured glider is very simple - just lift it against the wind, throw the handles, and he sits himself. Got harsh? Well, ... On the next landing, take a little bit "on yourself" in a half-meter from the ground, forcing the model to reduce the reduction rate.

Despite the simplicity of the launch of the glider, there is always a risk of chagrin - it's enough to plant one of the ending ground, and the model will go with the wheel. Or, instinctively fear of land, on the landing you jerk "on yourself" too much, hiding the model. The glider begins the nose, and the breakdown is almost inevitable.

Therefore, attention, attention and just once. Do not forget that by itself up the glider will not fly.

What should pay special attention to high-rise starts?

have a flight plan in your head. To begin with, this is: Flight against the wind on a fairly great removal, turn to 180, a short passage in the wind, again turns 180 and again flying against the wind, and so before landing.
do not let the wind glider! He should always be with a windward side of you - otherwise you risk losing it.
do not fly above your head - when you look strictly up, it is very difficult to determine the direction of flight and the position of the model
again - do not interfere with the model to fly. It flies well without your control and, in the case of which it will land. At first, limit the reversal by studying.

After you perfectly master the curricula with the curricula, you can more or less to fly to the training aircraft ... or go to a more perfect glider, starting to learn from the rising air in the rising streams.

A little about motorcase. Starting the flights are best just like on ordinary - start with hands with a non-working motor. When you learn, you can run the motor and raise the model higher. There is one important point: the moto store does not have a large stock of thrust, and the power of the engine is enough only to make the model slowly gaining height. Do not try to force the glider to gain a height at an angle of 45 degrees - he will inevitably lose speed and break into the spiral. Try to keep the angle of a set of no more than 10 ... 15 degrees. If you see that the glider began to lose speed - immediately lower the nose and give the models again accelerate.

There are no other differences between glider and motoroplain, except, except, a little higher flight speed of the Motoplain because of its greater mass.

Electrollets

The method of training for flights on the electricity contains part of the planer and part of the aircraft techniques.

Before entering the field for the tenth time, check the absence of a twist and distortion. Special attention - longitudinal and transverse balancing.

Ideally, if the field in which the flight of the electroletter will be placed, it will be covered with high, thick and soft (!) Grass, and the wind will be robust and constant.

Pads

Recall how we learned to throw a glider with the hands, and we will do the same. We will rush around the field with a model in your hand until it is 100% convinced that the model released from hand will fly straight and smoothly.

If you still managed to buy an electric power, the minimum flight speed of which exceeds the maximum speed with which you can run, you will have to go to risk - raise the model in the air already with a working engine.

However, I want to hope that this did not happen. Therefore, let's run with the airplane in your hand on the field, determining bad trends - to the nasalism, to the dumping, etc. How to run and what to look at this, told in the chapter on glider, and it is hardly that it makes sense to repeat it again.

So, the model is executed. You can proceed to some. Turn on the transmitter, receiver - and flew. While the motor does not need us, therefore it is not necessary to include it. Now there is a task of managing the planning model.

And again repeats the same thing that was with gliders. By releasing the model alone or with a friend, we try to hold it on a straight-point point. Any deviations from the optimal decline line are punishable by repeatedly launching a model with a hand that removes the moment of motor takeoff. Careful until you feel the one hundred percent confidence that you can easily cope with the model planning on landing. Senake? Everything. Recharge batteries and ...

Learning to manage an electropole

It is assumed that you conducted an avenue amount of time at a computer while learning to fly in the simulator. In this case, the flight on the electric power supply has high chances to end well. In fact, the landing (and this is the most difficult!) You have mastered the ones, launching a model with a hand, withholding in the air you have mastered in the winter in the simulator, but take off ... takeoff is simple. Remember how you did the raid, and repeat the same operations, with the only difference that you need to do with the motor turned on.

Turning on the Motor "On Full", we break well and produce a model. CAUTION: In no case do not force the model to fly up immediately. Allow it to fly at a permanent height of at least fifty, so that it gains speed, but then you can already take a tape for yourself. Why is that? And because the models with the electric motor, as a rule, have a very mediocre traction, and when trying to an intensive set of height, lose speed and fall.

While we argue with you here, the model has already soared. We will not give her to flush, and, by turning it, start the flight by the plan, which (remember the beginning of the article?) It should already be printed in your memory and, in good way, is rehearsed in the simulator. Here, in fact, all.

Landing no difficulties will deliver, because we have already studied it, launching a model with hands. Turn off the engine, and putting a model against the wind, let it decrease yourself to the height of the meter-one and a half, after which it is slowly chosen the height of "on yourself" to reduce the rate of reduction of the model. It is necessary to do this so that by the time of the touch of the Earth, the model had a very small vertical speed, and the horizontal was minimal and close to the velocity of the breakdown. Of course, it will not be possible right away, but it was recommended that the field with thick grass was recommended. Even if you pluck in it a quickly flying model, the plastics, with it in 90% of cases nothing happens. True, Grass will not save you from the vertical "sticking" of the model. So try to keep the model "in the horizon" before planting.

And what if the electric power is so hard that it does not want to fly without a motor "with hands", and there is no take-off strip in the area? One thing remains. Finding out the most difficult model in the simulator, learn to manage it, and fly at the minimum possible engine speed. So you will acquire the speed of the reaction, although spend a lot more time.

After that, select a day with a smooth wind of the middle strength and head on the field. Do not rush to check the readiness of the model to flight. Turning on the motor at full power, run out against the wind and push the model right. Not up, not down, not left or right, namely right. Make sure that at the time of launching the plane did not acquire any roll and did not shake the nose up. Practice, if necessary, longer. It is better to flee to half dead, than incorrectly start the model and then it is painfully restored.

After this start, the model is required to fly. Compensate the rolls with smooth, but fast movements of the handles and, again, do not try to dial the height until the model has accelerated to the required speed.

That's all.

Conclusion

In fact, independent training flights - the thing is very and very difficult. Not everyone has enough enthusiasm to bring the started to the end - on the fifteenth repair of a broken model, your patience can burst. And even if it seems to you that it is not about you and you will definitely learn how to make it all the same effort to search the instructor. You not only learn to fly much faster, but also recognize the lot of useful things.

What is described in the article is just the beginning. But to start - the most difficult. Further training will go seven-year steps, it is worth learning you to learn an independent takeoff, flight and landing.

Successes to you in training!