Drawing of a model of an airplane made of wood. How to build a wooden plane

Introduction

To create my first plane, I was pushed by the banal lack of money and the desire to learn to fly. Since the Chinese plane presented to me by my girlfriend was repaired an infinite number of times and, in the end, came into an unrepairable state, and there was not enough money to buy a new one, it was decided to build my own. Moreover, on the forum of the store modelsworld.ru, I was advised to do just that. I originally tried to copy the fuselage of my Chinese aircraft, but building an airplane requires at least some basic knowledge. Therefore, it is better to have a manual already written by a more experienced designer at hand. And, while crawling on the Internet in search of a suitable aircraft, I came across an article "ParkFlyer 2 or our answer Piper" y and Cessn "e" by Evgeny Rybkin (link). A very successful option for me: a high-winged plane, which means it is easier and more predictable to control; I am also glad that the aircraft is domestic, since our aircraft are practically not represented in this class.

I read the article, and although there is a slightly different manufacturing method, I decided to build according to this guide. True, if we compare both options, then only the name of the aircraft will be in common - after all, Evgeny Rybkin's description is more suitable for those who already have experience building models and have the necessary materials and tools. In a way, my example looks like "building an airplane in unfavorable conditions." Therefore, externally, the models are different (Yak-12 Yevgeny Rybkin - on the left, My version of the Yak-12 - on the right):

The construction of my plane was carried out more intuitively than science: no calculations were made, the engine was not selected, but what was available was stuck in. Affects the remoteness of the city in which I live - to the only model store I know of more than 100 km, and in our hardware stores there is a whole problem to buy a normal ceiling and good glue. Therefore, the construction process was constantly hampered by the lack of the necessary materials and parts. As a result, something was removed from the crashed Chinese plane, something (and this most of) was invented from improvised material.

Since this is my first self-built aircraft, there were some mistakes. Therefore, in the process of creating an aircraft, it was necessary to look for different options for solving problems, then some corrections and upgrades appeared in the process. Therefore, it makes sense to read the article to the end, so as not to repeat my mistakes.

I would like to add that this article should not be taken as a guide to action or instructions for building an airplane, as I, for example, perceived the article by E. Rybkin. It just describes the process of making a newbie, in the field of aircraft construction, a parkflyer, practically from improvised means. But, if you are building your first plane, and you do not have the opportunity to get hold of branded parts, then, I hope, some points will be useful to you. In general, go for it, and you will succeed!

Materials and tools

On this plane, in principle, not so much material took me. Considering that I redid some of the nodes and parts several times, trying to achieve a more accurate match, the amount of materials wasted is minimal. I wasted the most time, because because of work I could only take care of the plane in the evenings.

The article by E. Rybkin describes the manufacture of an aircraft from PS-60 foam. There, a special machine is used for cutting it, where a heated nichrome (perhaps I am mistaken in the name) wire plays the role of a knife. Due to the lack of this device, I decided to make the model entirely from the ceiling. I did not have more accessible material at that time. I used the ceiling of different manufacturers, different colors, but the same parameters: 500 * 500 mm, the same density, 3 mm thick and must necessarily look like a "box from" Doshirak "". It took me nine sheets for the plane. When buying a ceiling tile from a store, buy a bottle of ceiling tile adhesive. I used Master glue. As it turned out later, this is an analogue of the well-known Titan glue. In general, ask the seller, he will tell you.

Then we go to the stationery store and buy wooden rulers 30 cm and 50 cm there. I used the 30 cm long rulers as ribs in the wing and for the stiffness of the fuselage. As practice has shown, for the stiffness of the fuselage, it is better to use a 50 cm ruler - they are thicker. In the same place, I bought a colored tape for covering the model. Due to the limited assortment, I had to take white, blue and orange colors. I was looking for black scotch tape to imitate glasses, but I could not find it. But our stationery store sells knitting needles. I took four pieces of 2 mm each and two pieces of 3 mm each. In principle, you can do without 3 mm spokes - I used them as a spacer between the wing and the fuselage, but the spokes are quite heavy, after several dashing turns they fell out, and I had to replace them with plastic tubes. If you do not have a ready-made motor frame, as in my case, then you will also need a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 3 mm and a size of about 200 * 200 mm.

The tools I used: a stationery knife with a replaceable blade, scissors, a helium pen, an awl and Phillips screwdriver with a diameter of 3 mm, a set of pins and, of course, a ruler.

"Filling"

E. Rybkin's article contains a lot of calculations. And, based on these calculations, a motorcycle installation and other electronic filling are selected. This is the right approach when building a serious airplane. Perhaps the next time I build, I will use this method. At the same time, I proceeded from what I had in stock. And I had the following: Futaba 6EXA equipment with a receiver, two Chinese motors, with rear and front mounts, a 30A regulator, two servos weighing 8 g and a force of 1.3 kg, hogs taken from a Chinese aircraft, two propellers with dimensions 10 * 7 and 8 * 4 with a cooker and a Chinese battery of 8.4 volts and a capacity of 650mAh.

Drawing

I downloaded the drawings in the same place, in the article by E. Rybkin, and printed the sheets on a printer.

Gluing is very simple - there are marks on the sheets that you just need to combine to get the correct lines without shifting the line. There are two ways to transfer an image to the ceiling. The first is to fix the sheet on the ceiling with pins and pierce it along the contour with a thin awl. Then, for clarity, you can connect the holes obtained on the ceiling with a pencil, or you can simply cut it with a sharp knife. On straight sections, it is enough to make several punctures, and on curves the more often there are punctures, the more accurate the transfer will be. The second method is suitable if the drawing is printed on an inkjet printer. To transfer, slightly moisten the tile, attach a drawing and iron it on a flat surface with a warm iron. The image should remain on the foam. The main thing is not to overdo it with the temperature and not melt the ceiling.

When placing a drawing, it is worth remembering that ceiling tiles have different bending strengths. It is easy to check by bending the sheet in different directions. This applies to the wing, since my left and right sides were placed diagonally, from one corner to the other. This made it possible to avoid gluing the fuselage from several sheets of the ceiling.

I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the top and bottom of the plane are given in halves, and they are of different sizes. For the correct tracing of the lines, you must first draw one half, and then make a mirror image of it. I divided the upper part into two segments - the front one goes from the nose of the car to the leading edge of the wing; back from end to trailing edge.

The wing profiles, as well as the inner frames in the drawing, turned out to be smaller than we need. Therefore, you will have to make them yourself.

Fuselage

After the bottom and sides of the fuselage have been cut out, mark on them where the frames will be located. In order not to be too smart, I transferred almost all the locations of the frames from the drawing.

Except for "A" and "B". I decided to use these two frames as a motor mount. Since I had two motors and with different mounts, it was decided to make the motor mount universal for motors with front and rear mounts, reducing the distance between the frames so that both motors could fit. Subsequently, this arrangement was very useful - the originally installed motor was too weak.

The motor frame was made of two plywood plates 3mm thick and two pieces of a ruler. I also added two corners for strength and adjusting the inclination of the plates at the bottom at the base. In frame "B" or in the rear wall of the motor mount, do not forget to cut holes for the output of the motor wires to the regulator. The whole structure was glued with epoxy resin. Initially, I wanted to make a "curved" frame, so that later I would not bother with bevels down and to the right. But on the forum site modelsworld.ru I was dissuaded in time and advised to make the motor tilt by placing washers under the base. Looking ahead, I will say that the structure turned out to be very strong - after several strong frontal impacts on the ground, the front wall burst at the engine mount. The second option, when the frame itself is purchased, and I will not consider the foam base here, since this option has not yet passed flight tests. And there is nothing complicated there: a foam base is made, reinforced with rulers for a ready-made motor mount.

You also need to think about where and how the "filling" will be located: servos, battery compartment, receiver and regulator.

For the regulator, I made a small podium from the same packing foam, making a depression in it slightly thicker than the regulator itself, where I glued two strips of double-sided tape. This was done for more comfortable work with wires when connecting and for more safety of the regulator.

Immediately after the podium, on the bottom, I have a load-bearing element for the chassis, made again from the line. The chassis will be screwed into it.

For the battery compartment, I used blocks of packing foam, adjusted to the size of the battery and a ruler as frame "B" (before gluing, it is better to wrap the line with tape a couple of times, otherwise the battery will break it if it falls). The compartment turned out to be universal - it successfully accommodates both the Ni-Cd battery and the Li-Po. Moreover, there is enough space to adjust the balancing by moving the battery. I also had a receiver there.

Immediately behind the battery compartment in front of the D frame, I placed the rudder and elevator servos. For them, a foam podium was also made, in which niches for cars were cut out. I glued strips from the ruler to the places into which the fastening screws will be screwed.

Then he glued the frames "D" and "E", having previously cut out grooves in them for reinforcing the sides of the fuselage. Also in the frame "D" a hole was cut for the rudder rods. In the photo above, the hole is in the form of a circle, but I had to abandon this shape and make it square and cut off the top. That is, it turned out like an inverted letter "P". This design turned out to be more practical.

When planning the plane, I thought to make the wings removable, inserted on the spokes on the left and right sides, respectively. But, having already made this structure, I understood its weaknesses. First, you would have to think about access to the internal compartments. Secondly, on impact, most likely, the attachment points of the wings would simply be ripped out of the fuselage. Therefore, I decided to make the wing mount classic for such models - removable, with elastic bands.

In the picture, the glued rulers are what I did initially. The subsequent wing cutout is shown in red; blue - power elements from the rulers; yellow - the approximate location of the holes for the sticks on which the elastic bands will be attached. The neckline will depend on the shape of the wing. Of course, it is better to make such a cut right away, when it is possible to attach both halves to each other, so that it turns out the same on both sides. Basically, I removed the upper part already on the glued and covered fuselage - it turned out not bad. But all the same, it is advisable to glue the bottom and sides after the wing is made and cut out for it. seats in the sides.

Now, having already flown on the finished model, I came to the conclusion that the rear power element is not necessary, since there are quite enough frames and adhesive tape at the back. But if you are worried about strength, you can do it.

Since the bottom of the side is not straight, I glued it in the following way: I first glued the central part, fixing the position of the bottom, side and frames with pins; after the glue dries, I also glued the nose; and finally glued the tail. I glued the motor mount to the sides with epoxy resin.

After gluing, I got the following:

In the lower part, in front of the "B" frame, on both sides, I glued two plastic spare parts from the spokes onto the epoxy, with the holes outward. They come with knitting needles and are clothed at the ends. The wing struts will be inserted into these holes.

In the very corner of the back of the case, I placed a piece of Styrofoam. The rudder will "stick" into it. The upper part of the fuselage consists of two halves: bow and stern. After the transition to the construction of an aircraft with wing fasteners on elastic bands, there was no need to make the nose part with an approach to the wing. The photo shows a dotted line where you need to make a bleed.

Before installing the rear upper part, it is necessary to place the steering gears and rods (bowdens) inside the fuselage. Since my rudder thrust came out exactly through the rear fuselage cover, I had to make a small hole for the bowden in it (the cover). Another hole was made in the rear of the port side for the elevator thrust.

The fuselage was covered with white tape. I did not meet any difficulties here. But making the appliques took some time.

To simulate the cockpit windows, I made templates from cardboard. Then he simply applied them to blue tape, circled and cut off with a clerical knife.

The blue stripe was made from a strip of duct tape. I glued the scotch tape directly to the fuselage, marked it out, ran it along the marking with a knife and removed the excess. But it was a big mistake - to cut off the blue stripe in place, on the fuselage. After hitting the ground, the ceiling burst exactly in the place where the cuts took place, although he tried to touch the foam as little as possible when cutting.

The inscriptions were printed on a printer, cut off and pasted on transparent tape.

Elevators and rudders

In the manufacture of the steering wheels themselves, there were no difficulties. Problems appeared during their installation - it was required to achieve an even installation so that there would be no problems during flights.

When manufacturing the elevator, it must be borne in mind that the jumper connecting the two halves is rather small and requires reinforcement. I did not immediately pay attention to this, for which I was punished: in flight this jumper was torn, despite the tightness of the tape, and the PB worked like an aileron. The result is several barrels and earth. You can strengthen it with a thin strip of a ruler glued to the glue, and also slightly increase the size of this area itself. There are also more practical options for amplification than I used. For example, carbon pipes. After strengthening, cover with tape. And one more important point: do not heat up after covering! The adhesive tape is already pretty strong, and if you start heating, the stabilizer will most likely lead, as it happened in my case. I had to make a new one. The same goes for the rudder. The elevator was leveled using struts made of thin spokes. There were no problems when gluing into the fuselage, so I see no point in describing in detail.

But there were problems with the rudder - I didn't want to be installed exactly. For gluing into the fuselage, I used rod ends glued to the spokes.

But this was not enough, and it was necessary to install props from the rulers. In the future, I hid the props, as well as the reinforcement of the elevator, under white scotch tape so that they would not be conspicuous.

Wings

The most problematic part for me was the wing. I redid it several times, trying to achieve the same results on both wings. They were different all the time. Lack of experience affected.

An important point when placing a wing drawing on a sheet of a ceiling tile will be the choice of the direction of bending of the ceiling itself, as already mentioned above. When marking the wing, we will need to make its specular reflection with a margin slightly larger than the front height of the rib. That is, we outline one half, retreat the desired distance (about 20 mm), turn over the wing pattern and outline the mirror image. In my case, the indent was about 15 mm and, still, it was not enough.

A ruler was used as the material for the ribs. Initially, I made a rib with an irregular shape with a sharp forehead, but then, having received advice on the forum, I corrected myself. In general, it is advisable to make a profile, as in the drawing, but with dimensions suitable for our wing. On the wing, four ribs turned out: three on the wide part and one in the middle, between the end of the wide part and the end of the wing.

In the first three ribs, at the same distance, two holes were made for the spokes, which were originally conceived as devices for attaching the wing to the fuselage. But even if you make a top-mount wing, I think the spokes can be left as they will stiffen the wing and prevent it from breaking.

When everything is ready, proceed to fold the wing. There are many ways to bend ceilings on the Internet. The bottom line is the same everywhere - you need to warm up. I heated with a heater. And here the main thing is not to rush. Choose a temperature at which it is not very hot itself, and the sheet bends as it should. Already on the next wings, I did this: I took two wooden 50 cm rulers, applied on both sides and bent (pressed) with rulers, and not with my hands. This was done so that there would be no dents from the fingers. Fixed when gluing with clothespins and even paper clips. When gluing, when fixing, it is also better to use a flat substrate in the form of rulers.

I realized this only when the dents from clothespins and paper clips remained on the wing left to dry until the morning.

It so happened that on one wing, the terminal chord turned out to be 5-7 mm less than on the other. Having tortured several sheets of the ceiling, I decided to make it easier. I measured the missing piece, cut it out of the waste and glued it. After covering with tape, the differences were not visible.

Next, we make the profile of the inner wall of the wing from the ruler. It is enough just to attach the wing vertically to a sheet of paper and trace along the contour, and then transfer the resulting contour to the ruler. On this profile, I got two rows of holes - the first for the exit of the spokes from the wing, and the second, slightly lower and slightly to the side under the entrance of the spokes from the opposite wing. When the profiles are cut, we glue them to the ends of the wing, and, after the glue has dried, insert the knitting needles into the holes. It turns out like this:

Then we cut out a rectangular piece of the ceiling, with an approximate overlap on the wing of 30-50 mm. Having evenly positioned the workpiece on the wing (as in the photo), glue the lower part. After the glue dries, bend it in the shape of the wing. We try on the resulting wing on the fuselage, mark the width and remove unnecessary sections with a knife.

There was even an idea to increase the wing area in this way, but since the plane flew, it was decided to leave everything as it is.

The wing cover was made with white tape with an overlap of 3-5 mm. I made the ends of the wings orange. I printed the inscriptions on a laser printer, cut them off and glued them onto transparent tape. I did not resort to using an iron to smooth out irregularities, since a slight overkill in temperature threatens to deform.

I used thick knitting needles for the braces. But either I made a mistake in the calculations, or the knitting needles turned out to be a heavy material, in flight, after several maneuvers, they fell out even after gluing. Perhaps it makes sense to find an easier option. For example, as E. Rybkin suggests, you can use cotton candy tubes or pick up an analogue.

For the installation of the struts, I used the juice tubes in the tetra-packs, since with their help it is easy to achieve the desired angle of installation of the struts. Glued into the wing with epoxy.

Chassis

For a long time I could not make a chassis, since I could not find the appropriate material. But in the end, as always, the stationery store helped - aluminum rulers, this is what we need. Wheels used from a Chinese aircraft, dimension 5.

It will be safer to make a structure from one ruler, but I did not find a ruler of a suitable length, so I had to use two 15 cm each. I cut off the excess and bent it according to the drawing. Initially, I planned to attach it to the fuselage by gluing, but the very first tests (I just threw it on the floor) showed that such a structure was too flimsy. I had to combine the gluing and drill holes for the fastening screws.

Chassis pattern shape

I installed the chassis after covering it. Before gluing, I used the method described by E. Rybkin: the part that was going to be glued was wrapped with thread, loop to loop and then smeared with glue.

Hood

Initially, when making the hood, I wanted to follow the example described in the article by E. Rybkin, but after several attempts I found this method difficult for me. As a result, I decided to make the hood from the ceiling strip. I cut out a rectangle 70mm wide and about 300mm long, attached it to the nose of the aircraft and wrapped it. I glued the bottom with tape. An important point here is the correct choice of the direction of bending of the ceiling. In my case, there was no heating and other methods that are used to shape the ceiling. I wanted to use a propeller from a processor cooler as a motor front, but I haven't found a suitable size yet. This would help solve the ventilation problem in the engine compartment. So far, I have limited myself to a sticker of blinds printed on a printer from a drawing.

Flying

The first sorties were without a chassis, without a hood, with a plywood engine mount and spokes as struts. Impatience made us leave for the field in a rather tangible gusty wind.

Checking, centering. For the load, I glue a few five-ruble coins on the nose. I start it up from my hand without a motor - the flight is not far, but smooth, with a slight roll. I decide to fly with a motor. The first flight is lumpy. The plane did not want to fly - at full throttle it smoothly descended into the grass. Affected by the use of an unknown motor. After the plane "sat down" next to a pipe disguised in the grass, he decided not to tempt fate and went home to remodel the motorcycle. It is good that the motor mount was originally made universal, so the alteration did not take much time. I also decided to put Li-Po instead of the standard battery.

Back in the field. The wind has intensified even more, but this does not stop, although the thought "can it wait?" arises. Check and take off again. Now the picture is different - the plane is flying, gaining altitude, making uncertain turns, but all this is somehow strange: the nose is lifted up against the wind - the tail is lowered. In the wind, the picture is the opposite - the nose is down, the tail is up. Several times, when cornering, I was caught up in gusts. It didn’t work out once, and didn’t lightly touch the ground. A crack appeared under the blue stripe. But the experiments do not stop there - you need to find out what is wrong with the plane. Until it turned out: during one of the flights, the plane suddenly made two barrels and "softly" sat down in a puddle. They approached, and immediately everything became clear - the very same jumper connecting the halves of the elevator broke.

From the injuries of that day: a dented nose, a crack under the strip, a torn-off knuckle-brace. A little. We are going home for repairs.

The next morning was calm and the decision to go appeared immediately. To be honest, I was very worried: after the first flights it seemed that the plane was assembled poorly and somewhere there were a lot of shortcomings and miscalculations. Ground check and start. And, lo and behold! The plane is flying right! Climb, turn, another, I reduce the gas to almost half, but it still flies! There is no limit to delight! The only thing that spoiled the mood a little - when turning, you have to be very careful with the rolls: you gape a little and the plane is rapidly losing altitude. But it is very easy to catch, although it adds adrenaline. It is enough to put the rudder in the center, and take the elevator a little on yourself, and the plane goes into level flight. True, I have not enough experience and in the end I stuck it in the ground. This time, the damage was more significant: the motor mount burst at the bolt attachment points, the nose was even more crumpled, and the ruler holding the battery broke.

Conclusion

Despite the recent damage, I am very pleased with the plane, although he does not pull on the role of a coach, as was originally intended. This was my first independent step into radio aviation. When building this aircraft, I learned a lot, which is no doubt useful for me when building other aircraft.

I would also like to add that testing and fine-tuning continues.

I would like to say a huge thank you to my mother, girlfriend Masha for putting up with all the mess that I made at home; Vadik for providing details and ideas; members of the forum forum.modelsworld.ru, especially Barbus "for his advice.

Specification:

Length - 685 mm
> wingspan - 960 mm
> weight - 500 g

motor - E-Sky Ek5-0003B 900KV
> regulator - Rich-ESC - 30A
> servo - E-Sky Ek2-0500 weight 8g. Force 1.3 kg
> propeller - 10 * 7

Hardware - Futaba 6EXA 40Mhz

Author - Evgeny Valerievich Zhukov. (Terranozavr)
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Erect airplane from wood absolutely capable of even a schoolchild who does not miss classes in the school aircraft modeling circle. Such a model of a glider, finally, is unlikely to be able to take passengers on board, but it will reward the creator with good flight properties and high structural strength. By launching a wooden glider, you will acquire the skill of adjusting free-flying models and get the unforgettable feeling of a DIY flight airplane a.

You will need

• Pine slats, a knife, a jigsaw, a plane, PVA glue, aluminum wire, polystyrene, balsa, lavsan film, iron with a thermostat

Instructions

1. Working on a wooden model airplane but start by assembling the frame. Glue it from pine slats with a cross section of 5x5 mm using PVA glue. After the glue is dry, reinforce the frame with foam inner corners. Cut the upper end of the keel with a knife from a piece of foam or balsa. Round off the front and back edges of the frame. Cover the keel with colored polyester film on both sides. Glue the steering wheel to the trailing edge (it is allowed to cut it out of cardboard 0.5 mm thick).

2. Also, assemble a stabilizer from pine slats with a cross section of 5x5 mm. Reinforce it with foam corners, rounding the edges of the frame. Bend the end parts of the stabilizer from a wire (an aluminum knitting needle or a piece of electrical wire will do). Tie the tip to the frame with threads with PVA glue or epoxy resin. Cover the finished stabilizer with a thin polyester film, like the keel.

3. The wing is entirely made of pine wood. The leading and trailing edges of the wing must have a section of 3.5x9 mm, the spar - 3.5x7 mm. Make ribs also from a pine blank or from a linden. Later, after the frame is assembled, cut the edges along the wing profile and round off.

4. The fuselage is made of a pine lath with a section of 10x15 mm. The strip should thin out evenly along each length towards the tail. Cut the spout out of linden or pine. You will also need a lead slice balancing weight. Insert the weight into the hole in the spout and rivet.

5. After gluing and processing the fuselage, glue the keel and stabilizer to it with PVA glue. At the same time, observe the mutual perpendicularity of the empennage elements and the even position of the stabilizer in relation to the fuselage beam. Lacquer the fuselage and cover with shiny nitro paint.

6. Adjust the wooden glider model. Tie the pylon at the rear and front ends to the fuselage with a rubber band and move the wing along the beams until you find the desired center of gravity relative to the wing.

7. Perform the first test runs in the gym or outdoors in low winds. Launch the model with a slight throw across the horizon. Use wooden adjusting wedges between the pylon and the fuselage to achieve the slowest descent speed when planning the model. Later, when you master the technique of such "piloting", use the model bravely to showcase your engineering knowledge - for fun to the public.

Aircraft modeling has fascinated both adults and children for decades. Aircraft made of plastic, wood, metal, composite materials... The final version today is probably the most famous, tea composites are strong and durable, they are created by an unnatural method by connecting heterogeneous solid materials, which consist of several components that differ in their chemical and physical properties.

Instructions

1. Design your plane on paper. Remember, it depends on your plan what the aircraft will be in terms of appearance and functionality. There can be a lot of options, it all depends on your imagination and imagination. However, here one should also consider those factors that will affect the lifting of the unit, its flight and landing, that is, all the details of the aircraft must be proportional and accurate in measurements and calculations.

2. Calculate all the details of your aircraft. In this case, not only the weight and geometric dimensions unit, but also consider the number of places, engine power, the one that you will use, stall speed, operational overload, aerodynamics, etc. All calculations should be made strictly according to the appropriate formulas.

3. Determine and mark on your paper plan where the butt joints will be, and where the supporting ones, where the adhesive ones, and where the welding, threaded or composite ones. It should be borne in mind that more high loads are usually brought to the joints, and they should be made with metal elements.

4. Prepare all materials and tools for work. Do in those places of the composite materials where holes, threads and connections are required. Remember, however, that the holes do not have to be near glued seams and glued joints.

5. Clean the surfaces around the holes and threads made. Determine the locations of the rivets and make these types of connections.

6. Start assembling your aircraft in accordance with the calculations and paper drawing (sketch), observing, stepwise connecting all the parts of the aircraft. When assembling an aircraft from composite materials remember that the wings and tail are assembled first, and more closely then the body, into the one that all the elements (parts) of the aircraft are inserted into. Test the finished assembly.

Construct airplane allowed from improvised means, spending a minimum of time and effort. At the same time, such an aircraft model, with the correct adjustment, will be able to fly quite far away. Having erected several such airplane s, you will be able to compete with your friends in the flight range of your models.

You will need

• - a sheet of notebook paper in a cage;
• - match;
• - a triangular object.

Instructions

1. Take a sheet of notebook paper and draw on it drawings of the wing and tail of the aircraft in accordance with the diagram shown in the figure. Cut out the details neatly and bend the keels along the dotted lines on the tail unit.

2. Take the match that will be used as the fuselage of the upcoming aircraft. The match must be of good quality, that is, straight-layered and even. Cut off part of it with a blade, as shown in the figure. Sand the cut area with sandpaper. Now glue the tail unit (see picture). Use PVA glue or similar.

3. Find a triangular object on which it will be allowed to balance the fuselage with the tail. For example, you can cut a triangular prism out of wood yourself, or use a triangular ruler. If the fuselage does not balance in any way and the tail of the aircraft outweighs, glue a small slice of plasticine to the nose (to the sulfur head of the match). When the balance point is found, sweep it - it will be the center of gravity of your aircraft.

4. Glue the wing to the fuselage, making an indent towards the nose 2.5 mm from the center of gravity. After the wing is glued, you need to bend it about 8 °, as shown in the figure.

5. Your plane is ready, but in order for it to fly perfectly, it needs to be tuned. Take it with two fingers and smoothly run horizontally. Watch his flight. If he immediately dives down, bend the horizontal part of the tail up. If it rapidly descends flat, on the contrary, you need to bend the tail a little down. If the plane is turning to the right, you need to bend the folds on the tail unit to the left. If he turns to the left, you need to bend them to the right. By bending the left or right side of the wing, you will get rid of the tilt of the aircraft. With an impeccable setting, your plane will fly straight and descend smoothly and fly at least 8 meters.

Related Videos

Polycarbonate is the current material often used to make awnings... It possesses a number of advantages: attractive appearance, low weight, and the likelihood of color selection. Despite the fact that many firms offer to carry out the installation of a canopy from polycarbonate for a certain fee, this work is allowed to be done on their own.

You will need

• - polycarbonate sheet;
• - metal pipes;
• - wooden slats;
• - dye;
• - self-tapping screws;
• - fasteners for polycarbonate;
• - drill;
• - hacksaw.

Instructions

1. Before making a canopy, take measurements and purchase the necessary components: polycarbonate itself, pipes, wooden slats, fasteners.

2. To fasten the canopy, you will need a frame, the size of which depends on the available free space. The shape of the canopy depends only on personal preference, because polycarbonate is quite elastic in order to take the shape of a semicircle.

3. Take 4 pipes and dig them into the ground to a depth of 30-40 cm, forming a square or rectangle. There should be a distance of about 1-1.5 meters between the pipes, if the canopy is from polycarbonate will be larger, the number of supports increases. They will be the basis of the canopy frame. Cement the base of the pipes for increased structural safety.

4. Make a frame out of wood that looks like a window frame, the sides of which will be equal in size to the distance between the pipes. There should be several transverse slats inside the frame, spaced 50 cm apart. It is to them that polycarbonate will be attached. Treat the wood with wood stain or paint it so that the frame preserves its shape longer.

5. Attach the wooden frame to the pipes using corners with tighter technical holes. The corners are attached to the pipes using self-tapping screws for metal. It is allowed to use all kinds of screws on the wooden part.

6. Cut a piece with a hacksaw or circular saw polycarbonate, the size of which should be 5-7 cm wider than the frame made.

7. Lay the sheet on the frame and drill holes for fastening in it. They can be placed at a distance of 50 cm from each other. Drilling is desirable to carry out at high drill cycles initially, opposite the edge of the holes are torn.

8. Using self-tapping screws and special washers with wide caps, attach the sheet to the wooden frame. It is allowed to avoid leaks at the attachment points using rubber gaskets. To make the edges of the canopy look more diligent, it is worth putting on special finishing profiles, which are sold in the same stores as polycarbonate.

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Minecraft allows you to make trolleys, cars and even airplanes. Probably every minecrafter dreams of moving through the air with unimaginable speed. And if you still don't know how to make an airplane in Minecraft, then it's time to learn it.

Instructions

1. Unfortunately, making an airplane without mods in Minecraft is unrealistic. In order to build a working winged transport, you need to download and drop the Flan's Mod files into the minecraft.jar folder. In order for the mod to work correctly, you also need to install the MinecraftForge utility on your computer. With the help of this software add-on, it is allowed to make four-winged and six-winged aircraft.

2. You should start crafting a flying unit with the manufacture of a tail. It is made of leather and metal. In order to make the body, you need a tree, and to make the wings they take sticks. All items must be placed on the workbench as shown in the picture below. An airplane in Minecraft will not fly without a propeller. It requires steel and sticks to craft it.

3. In fact, making an airplane in Minecraft turned out to be not so difficult. No hard-to-find materials were needed for its construction. You can hover in the air for a bird's eye view of the area. But a tea plane can still bomb enemies!

4. In order to make a combat plane in the Minecraft game, you need to make a machine gun and bombs. You will also need a place to store charges - a cocklite. All these things are easy to craft if you look at the picture. This is how it is allowed to arm an aircraft made in Minecraft.

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Playground on site suburban area or a country house will allow your child to spend time energetically in the fresh air under your supervision. Choose a coolly lit and wind-protected place for the play area and build a playground with your own hands.

Sandbox in the playground

For kids, a sandbox must be present on the playground. It can be made by several methods from inexpensive materials. Build a sandbox from a tire from a tractor or other large machine. Cover the bottom with a non-woven material, one that will allow moisture to pass into the soil, but will not allow the earth to mix with the sand. Lay the tire on top and cover the structure with sifted river sand. A beautiful sandbox can be obtained from hemp. Choose the right number of stumps and treat them with an antiseptic so that the tree does not rot. Lay out the string in the shape of a sandbox where you plan to place it. You can fantasize and give the sandbox the look of a boat, a flower with petals, an airplane, or create easily curved silhouettes. Dig in the stumps along the silhouette, the one that you marked with the rope. When using thick stumps located on the same tier, children will also get paths along which it is allowed to run or sit. Build a sandbox with the support of boards. First, dig a hole about 50 cm deep in the place where it will be located and fill it with rubble. In this case, after a downpour, the sand will dry out rapidly. Unscrew the box from four boards and four bars. Take the bars more reliably, so that their lower ends also serve as legs. Paint the wooden edging of the sandbox with shiny oil paint. On the sides you can draw cartoon characters or large berries and fruits. Dig the legs into the ground along the silhouette of the hole and fill in the sand for the games.

Baby swing

When constructing a swing, it is important to observe safety precautions. Supports must be strong, and the fasteners are hefty true. Also consider the presence of free space in front of and behind the swing. For the supports, take two thick beams about 3 meters long. Treat it with antiseptic impregnation. Dig two holes about 50 cm deep. Install the timber and fill it with concrete or cement. After the mortar dries, attach a metal water pipe to the top of the supports. Tie a rope with a seat to the crossbar. If the seat is wooden, try to give the corners a rounded shape. It is comfortable to use a child car seat for a swing.

Playground houses

Toddlers love to hide in secluded places. Make a house on the playground. This can be a hut built from branches, or a tent that you can buy in a store. You can also make a fabric house independently.Make a frame from a bar or bend from metal-plastic pipes. Stretch shabby sheets or curtains on it. Cut through the window.

Elements for outdoor games

Reinforce the basketball hoop on a bar or tree. Determine its height based on the height of the child. It is allowed to make a labyrinth out of dilapidated tires. Cut them in half and dig them into the ground in a specific order. Install a horizontal bar. Make a flat badminton court.

Modern life is developing in such a way that, having already become parents, we do not always have enough time for our children. Being puzzled by the issue of earnings and material support, dads, who are so necessary for their children, often do not have the strength for games and entertainment. Therefore, all busy dads who are happy owners of wonderful sons will find this master class very useful, which will help in just 1 hour to build an airplane together with their child. Let it not be an exact copy of a Boeing or a fighter, having the most important parts in its arsenal, but a pleasant pastime will help to create such a toy from scrap materials that the kid will be very happy with. Just imagine with what pride among the guys your precious son will declare that this toy was made for him by his father, himself, with his own hands, and he helped. Such moments are the most valuable in life and will help to forget about the accumulated fatigue at the end of a hard day at work.
So, let's start making the very simple plane Yak-12 models. In order to carry out such a model, you will need the following tools and materials:
plywood or thick cardboard;
manual jigsaw for wood;
sheet of paper for the template;
pencil or marker;
sandpaper (if working with plywood).
The first step towards creating a model is its template (drawing). In my case, there was a clipping from an old magazine that can be easily copied onto a blank white sheet. To facilitate the task, you can use our template by printing it on a printer.

After the paper parts are cut out, they must be attached to the plywood, cut around the contour, and then put the templates aside.

When the contours of the future aircraft are drawn on the plywood, they must be carefully cut. To do this, you need to take a jigsaw on wood and carefully cut out all the parts, you should be especially careful about the small details that hold the main ones together.

The last step is to collect all the parts. To do this, you do not need to use any glue or other fastening components, all parts are inserted one into one.

So, having spent just an hour of time, you can easily make an airplane that, even if it does not fly, will be one of your child's most beloved toys. Do not forget that you can involve the baby himself in the work, entrusting him with the most pleasant part of the work - decorating. You can decorate the plane by painting it with paints, adding stickers in the form of stars, animals or other elements, or you can leave it that way, in its original version.

Since childhood, many boys have been fascinated by technology, various cars, trains, airplanes. They are of great interest in all the elements that are directly related to these subjects. To captivate the child with creativity, invite him to jointly make toys that will look like an airplane.

Crafts for children in the form of an airplane will be a great way to spend time with your child. You can have fun free time... In addition, such crafts can be done with children at children's parties.

A photo of crafts on the topic of an airplane demonstrates all the variety of models that you can make with your own hands.

Airplane made of wood

When creating an airplane out of wood, the question arises, what can be used to make an airplane? To create an airplane craft, you must have a clothespin, wood sticks, acrylic paints, brushes, Moment glue, scissors and sandpaper.

Algorithm for creating a toy plane

Consider step by step instructions how to make an airplane. This will allow you to create a craft without too much trouble if you follow the instructions for creating a toy airplane exactly.

We take blue paint and paint the wings of the future aircraft. Then we take the red paint and paint the clothespins, which will later become the basis of the airplane. To create the hind wings, you need to cut the stick in two. Use scissors to round off the trimmed edge.

The tail of the plane consists of a piece of a stick. Cut a piece of 10 millimeters from the stick. For this we use a clerical knife. The edge should not be flat.

Using sandpaper, we grind the surface of the wooden sticks. We paint the resulting parts and glue them together.

Plane made of cardboard

To create this version of the aircraft, you will need blue cardboard, matchboxes, scissors, Moment glue, and a cork.

We take a stencil and cut out all the details of the plane, from which we will then create it.

We take the matchbox and glue it to the base of the plane. It is necessary to cut one small strip of cardboard, which we then glue to the base of the aircraft. Billets of the same size are then glued over the matchbox on the other side.

To create a tail, you need to cut a strip measuring 50 millimeters by 10 millimeters. The edges are rounded on both sides. The resulting strip must be divided into three equal parts. Each strip should be 15 millimeters long. To do this, you need to use a clerical knife.

Stars must be glued to the airplane. They will become a real decoration of the model.

We take the cork from the wine. Using a clerical knife, cut off a small circle. Next, we put some glue on the surface of the cut piece of cork and glue it to the plane. Then you need to create a propeller. Its creation is described as a wooden airplane.

We take a needle with which it is necessary to pierce the cork. Then we attach all the parts to the base of the plane. We create small flowers from several sheets of colored paper. To do this, you need to take a decorative hole punch. These leaflets must be glued to the entire surface of the airplane.

Note!

Airplane from a bottle

To create an airplane from a bottle, you need to take the bottle itself directly. Using a knife, you need to make several slots, into which you will need to insert cardboard in the future. Externally, this cardboard should resemble the wings and tail of an airplane.

Cut out a piece from thick cardboard that looks like a propeller. In the center of this shape, you need to cut out a place for the plastic cork. It is necessary to install the propeller over the neck of the plastic bottle, and then screw on the plastic stopper. This will secure the propeller to the plastic bottle.

After that, you can invite your child to apply paint to a plastic bottle in whatever color he wants. The child will be happy to paint the base of the plane and its wings.

Thus, airplane crafts will be ready. The presented options for creating children's airplanes allow you to quickly make a craft.

You can give an airplane craft master class. This will allow you to do children's party more interesting and useful at the same time.

Note!

You can make your own choice of materials for DIY crafts. If your child is fond of wooden crafts, then it is best to make a plane out of wood, but if your child is fond of cardboard crafts, then it is recommended to create a flower plane.

Photo craft plane

Note!

Modern toy stores are simply bursting with a large assortment of all kinds of cars, bears, designers and much more. But remember the old days, when there was still no such abundance. Then, in circles and in labor lessons, we were taught to make toys on our own, and the main material for creativity was plywood for modeling. It is about such crafts that we will tell you today.

Preparation of material and tools

Like any business, and making a toy for a child is a very crucial step, you must first prepare both the material and the tool that will be needed in the design of the model.

If you are missing something from the above list, buy these missing items urgently.

1. Manual jigsaw for wood, the electric tool in our case is not an assistant to us, we do everything manually.
2. Model plywood, usually the thickness of the material is three and seven millimeters, in another way it is also called three-layer and seven-layer, respectively.
3. Pencil, ruler.
4. Sandpaper and square file for the processing of aircraft parts.
5. PVA glue or any other, which is designed for gluing wood.
6. Great patience and desire to bring joy to the child.

Of course, we need to start our design by marking all the details of the future airplane, namely: the fuselage, wings and stabilizer. You can first draw a drawing on paper, and then transfer it to the plywood itself, you can immediately draw the details on the plywood, as it is convenient for anyone.

Since our model of an airplane made of plywood was invented on the fly, there are no exact dimensions and, accordingly, there is no template or drawing. But as an example, we will take a certain size of the wingspan, and we will make a start from it when assembling our aircraft.

Let's make a wingspan thirty centimeters long, this is perhaps the most the best option, for those who find such an airplane small, it can increase the size of the wings and thereby make the airplane a little larger.

Cut out the workpiece with a jigsaw

As you can see in the photo, all the components can be easily drawn by hand, there is nothing complicated here. Let's start with the fuselage, which can be ten millimeters longer than the wings in length. Just draw the body itself by hand as shown in the picture.

Immediately on the fuselage body, make spike joints for attaching the wings. Due to such connections, prefabricated plywood models are quite strong and can be easily connected with glue, so be sure to use them.

Moving on to the wings, as we have already decided, the wings will be thirty centimeters long, the width, respectively, from eight to ten centimeters. Remember the main thing, the lower wing should be no more than ten millimeters shorter than the upper one.

It remains to draw the struts to support the fenders and the rear flap, stabilizer. When everything is ready, you can start cutting out parts with a jigsaw. Carefully cut out all the parts for the airplane based on the outlines you drew. Do not be discouraged if irregularities appear somewhere, in any case you try, and you will succeed.

Advice!
Cut out parts must be sanded with emery cloth immediately before assembling the model.
After you assemble the plane, it will already be inconvenient to grind it, as it will be possible to damage the model.

Assembling our plane

As a rule, modeling from plywood is an interesting and scrupulous lesson, and if you have already prepared tenon joints on the fuselage, now you need to make grooves on the wings for attaching to the body and for the struts that support the wings.

Do not hesitate to use a file during work and adjust the connections as accurately as possible. Start assembling by installing the stabilizer, which you will glue to the tail of the toy.

In the next step, our instruction recommends installing the wings in their place. To do this, apply glue to the joint and install the upper wing. Turning the model over, we install the racks to support the wings, we also pre-apply glue to the attachment points.

There is very little left and our homemade plane will be ready, we install the lower wing and our assembly. Just carefully glue all butt joints on the assembled model with glue and place the plane, letting the glue dry completely on the shelf.

It is not at all difficult to make such an airplane, of course, it is not an ideal option, and if you want, then you can look for other drawings of prefabricated models from plywood, because the flight of imagination and creative ideas does not end there. Let's take a look at what other crafts can be made from wood.

We continue to make homemade products

Well, let's not stop halfway, but try to please the child again, no matter what kind of plywood craft. If you focus on the boy, then it is possible that you want to know how to make a tank out of plywood? Quite a logical question, let's try to answer it.

As an example, we suggest that you consider our small model of a plywood tank, which is easy to manufacture and, when assembled, looks no worse than tanks made of plastic constructors.

Let's go through all the stages of design in order, and start with the materials that are needed for modeling.

• Plywood is, of course, the basis of our model, in this case the thickness of the plywood should be two to three millimeters. It will be very convenient to work with such plywood to cut out parts and then assemble them.
• Copy paper, with its help we will transfer the drawing to the workpiece.
• A set of files will be assistants in the processing of finger joints when assembling the model.
• Manual jigsaw and files for it, as for the files, then prepare several pieces of them, usually when cutting a model from plywood with your own hands, the files tend to break.
• Glue, it is advisable to use PVA, it interacts perfectly with wood and after drying it becomes discolored.
• Sandpaper and transparent varnish.

Advice!
It is recommended to sand the prepared material, plywood with an emery cloth and make the surface smooth before starting to outline the details of the tank.
This approach will provide a more accurate copy of the drawing onto the plywood surface.

Copy the drawing and cut out the elements of the tank

The next step in the design of the tank model will be the transfer of all the constituent parts of the model from paper to plywood. In the process of modeling, namely, answering the question of how to make a tank out of plywood - model drawings play a very important role.

Tank model drawing. Part 1

Now that you have a ready-made part template in your hands, you need to transfer it to the plywood using carbon paper. It is best to sketch the details with a simple pencil or use an empty ballpoint refill.

Do not forget about the numbering of parts, when copying them, transfer them to the material too. In the future, when assembling, it will be easier for you to navigate in details. Assembly rules are the joining of parts in sequence according to numbers: we connect number one with number one, number two, respectively, with number two.

When everything is ready and the drawing is transferred to plywood, you can start cutting out the parts. We will not teach you how to use a jigsaw, but we will give you a recommendation. After you have cut out all the parts, be sure to sand them with an emery cloth, so you will smooth out all the corners left by the jigsaw and end up with a neat model.

Now, in the order of digital designation, we begin to assemble our model of the tank, coat all joints with glue after docking and let them dry a little. After assembling all the components, you should have a model of the tank, which is almost ready.

As in any other business, it remains to put an end, and our point is the processing of the assembled model with colorless varnish. Believe me, the price of such a homemade toy is not comparable to the joy of your kid, who will play with it, you can be sure that you did not waste your time making such a model.

What else can be made from plywood

In fact, modeling is a huge potential for creativity, plywood as a material is ideal for this purpose. Various car models made of plywood are very popular, as a rule, they are simple in their manufacture and are in demand among kids.

Here, for example, is a simple model of a truck, for its manufacture very little material is required, and it will not take much time for assembly. If you take into account that you already have all the necessary tools, you can easily make such a craft.

In order to make such a truck, it is enough to transfer the template and all the spare parts of the car to the material. After collecting all the parts and connecting them together. These plywood car model drawings have a common base and different truck variants can be assembled on this base.

If you fantasize, then instead of a body, you can make a closed van, or cut out a fire escape, fantasize and bring your ideas to life with your child.

Making a boomerang yourself

Another very interesting toy is the boomerang. In fact, this toy in the old days was considered a throwing weapon, but today both adults and children really like the flight of this unique invention and its return to the place from which it was launched.

Let's figure out how to make a boomerang out of plywood, while observing all its aerodynamic properties. As a rule, first of all we need a material, in our case it will be plywood ten millimeters thick, and a template.

For the template, you will need a sheet of paper measuring fifty by sixty centimeters, and apply a grid with a mesh size of fifty millimeters on this sheet of paper. After we draw the boomerang itself on the template, try to do it, as shown in the picture below.

After the boomerang template is ready, we cut it out along the contour and transfer it to our plywood blank and follow a simple procedure:

1. We outline the contours of the template with a pencil on the workpiece.
2. Using a hand jigsaw, cut out the boomerang in accordance with the contours.
3. The resulting boomerang must be further processed and given aerodynamic properties.
4. We clamp the boomerang blank with a clamp and remove the excess wood covering from the center to the edges with a small plane.
5. As a result of processing, we should get a uniform transition from the edge to the center. central part should be ten millimeters thick, the edges of the boomerang six millimeters. Try to make the transition smooth, not ragged.
6. The next step is thorough. The boomerang should be perfectly smooth, this directly affects aerodynamics.
7. Now the toy needs to be opened with varnish and, after drying, painted in a bright color. Typically, bright colors will make it easy to spot the toy in flight or when searching after landing.

Information!
Boomerangs are inherently dangerous toys, so be careful not to hurt yourself or those around you when launching.
It is advisable to launch in the field, in places where there are no crowds and no residential buildings.

Finally

Very often, lovers of fakes are interested in: how to make a balalaika out of plywood and is it possible to do this in practice at home? We hasten to please you, although such a product is considered a complex musical instrument, it can still be made at home. But we will talk about this complex process another time.

In the video presented in this article, you will find additional information on this topic.