Pass 1A category of complexity. Below is a list of the mountain passes of the West Caucasus

The number of categories of complexity in all types active tourism 6. With an increase in the category of complexity of the hike, its difficulty is increasing from i to VI (Table 1). The category of complexity of the route define local obstacles occurring on its path. In the trekking (mountainous tourism) - these are passes, in water tourism - thresholds, in a speleotourism - caves, etc. In turn, local obstacles can also be divided into several categories of difficulties. The complexity category is used in the context of the campaign in general, and the category of difficulty is for local obstacles on the tourist route.

Table 1 - Note standards in active tourism

Category of complexity	I.	II.	III	IV.	V.	VI
Minimum duration, in days	6	8	10	13	16	20
Type of tourism	Minimum extent of the campaign, km
Tracking (mountain tourism)	100	120	140	150	160	160
Bicycle	300	400	500	600	700	800
Water	150	160	170	180	190	190
Speleo (Number of caves)	5	4-5	1-2	1-2	1-2	1
Pedestrian	130	160	190	220	250	300
Ski.	130	150	170	210	240	300

In the tracking, the trip route must be linear or ring and make up at least 75% of the entire route. This is done in order to in the event of a lack of a distance for credit in the ICC, tourists could make radial outputs. The "radale" is counted in one direction if the return on the same path.

The difficulty of climbing in mountaineering is determined by the complexity of a particular route to the mountain peak. The categories of complexity are also 6, divided into 2 semi-coathegories A and B (1A K.S. in the mountaineering in the offset of the discharge is not included). The complexity categories of the route are determined by the difficulty of local areas, which are also 6 from i to VI. There is an international methodology for assessing the difficulty of rock Uiaa. - Union of International Mountainery Associations. The classification is represented by 11 K.T. from i to xi. You can see it.

In the tracking, local obstacles are mainly passing (Table 2). The main categories of 3, dividing on the semi-Category as well as in the mountaineering - A and B. There are passals without K.T. - noncategories (on the maps are denoted by N / K). In the offset of the campaign in the tracking, you can include traverses and climbing peaks. Here it is necessary to correctly translate the climbing category of complexity in the trekking. Approximately it looks like this:

- the nature of the most complex sections of the pass;

- necessary to overcome the translating technique, the tactics of movement and features of the nights of the night;

- quantitative characteristics (time of movement, number of insurance points);

- Required special equipment ( Popinchsky V.Yu.).

In the offset of the route any k.s. Consider several passages (Table 2). The minimum number of passages of one or another difficulty has been established. At the same time, the maximum number of passes in one route can be enlarged by 2. Tourist group May include passes of any difficulty not exceeding the complexity of the campaign. It is worth noting that, starting with the campaign III, K.S., the group has the right to decide which pass to go is more logical.

Table 2 - Standards Categories of Hanging Hangs in Tracking

	Category of difficulty hike
	I.	II.	III	IV.	V.	VI
Minimum number of passes	2	3	4	5	6	7
Difficulty pass
1A.	2	1
1B		2	1	1
2A.			2	1	1
2B				2	1	1
3A.					2	1*
3b						2*

* In the route VI K.S. Possible option per. 2B - 1 pcs, 3a - 3 pcs, 3b - 1 pc.

The complexity of the pass is determined as follows (Table 3).

Table 3 - Criteria for assessing the difficulty of passages

(Table from the book "Russian tourist. Regulatory acts on sports and recreation tourism in Russia for 2001-2004")

K.T. Pass	The nature of the most complex areas of the path	Technique and conditions of movement	Total time (T) overcoming the pass. Number of insure points (N). Length of the defining area (I)	Required special equipment
1A.	Simple, oily, snowy and rock slopes of steepness up to 30 ° gear (up to 15 °) glaciers without cracks cool grassy slopes, on which areas of rocks are possible, usually the presence of a trail at approaches.	The simplest individual technique of movement Samostraki alpenstock or ice ax. When crossing through rivers at approaches may require insurance using a rope. Overnight, as a rule, in the forest or meadow zone.	A few hours .N \u003d 0i \u003d 0	Footwear on a non-slip sole, alpenshtoks, safety belts (chest straps) and carbines for each participant. 1-2 Main ropes per group.
1B	Uncomplicated rocks, snowy and dirty slopes of medium steepness (from 20 to 45 °), and in some years and areas of ice on the slopes, usually covered with snow: closed glaciers with sections of hidden cracks.	The simplest collective technique: simultaneous movement in bundles on slopes and closed glaciers. Handling railing on the slopes and with crossings. Possible overnight stays on the border of the glacial zone.	Not more than one day.n \u003d up to 5i \u003d up to 40-50 m.	Boots on a corrugated sole, alpenstocks or ice axes (1-2 ice axes per group must), safety systems and carbines for each participant. On one main rope for every 3-4 people. Crocheus rock and ice (3-4 per group), rock and ice hammer.
2A.	Rock, snowy, ice slopes of medium steepness (from 20 to 45 °) closed glaciers and simple icefields.	More complex individual and collective technique, alternating or group (periodile) insurance, the use of cats or cutting steps may need hook insurance. Overnight in the glacial zone are possible.	No more than a dayn \u003d 5-10i \u003d up to 80-100 m. (2-3 ropes in a row)	In addition to the 1b kt listed for passages ice axes and "cats" for each participant, hooks in the required quantity and assortment. On one main rope for every 2-3 people.
2B	Cool (over 45 °) Snowy, ice and rock slopes of medium complexity, short (up to 10-15 m) wall sections of the Inexuality of medium complexity are possible.	The use of the entire most common arsenal of technical techniques: periodile or alternate insurance, the use of hooks, the movement of the first on the rise, and the last on the descent without a backpack, the separate lift and the descent of the backpacks are descent in the rope (Duchfer). As a rule, inevitable overnight people in the glacial zone.	No less than day .N. = 5-20i \u003d up to 200 m (3-5 ropes in a row)	In addition to the 2a kt listed for passages,: brake devices for, descent on the rope and (preferably) clips for lifting. Auxiliary rope, loops, consumables rope and hook for descent.
3A.	Cool (from 45 to 65 °) Snowy, ice and rock slopes of considerable length Wall sections up to 1-2 ropes in a row, complex icefalls.	The use of various methods of movement and insurance at extended areas, including the use of artificial supports, ladder, anchors, etc. Usually requires preliminary exploration and route processing. Tactics acquires the prevailing value. Inevitable repeated overnight people in the ice zone. The Bivak organization may require high time and strength.	Up to two daysN \u003d 10-40i \u003d from 200 to 500 m. (Up to 10 ropes in a row)	In addition to the equipment listed above, climbs for lifting over the rope it is possible to use basic and auxiliary ropes of increased lengths. It may be necessary to use ladies, bookmarks and hooks extracted during descent.
3b	The same as for 3a, but with a larger length of complex areas, a variety of their character or utmost complexity, including walls of steepness of 60 ° and more.	The need for practically continuous mutual and group insurance for many hours and even the day special, designed to overcome this pass, prepare excellent ownership of the technique by all participants in impeccable tactics. Perhaps the absence of places for overnight cars, which requires the organization of seating or hanging Bivakov.	At least two days.n ≥ 30i \u003d 500 m. And more (more than 10 ropes in a row)	The same as the 3a K.T. It may be necessary to take equipment specially prepared for overcoming a specific pass.

In the criteria for evaluating routes on mountain peaks Includes:

— absolute height vertices;

- the length of the route;

- steepness of the slopes, the nature of the relief;

- technical complexity of individual sites;

- the total number of areas of varying degrees of complexity on the path to the top;

- Approaches and descent from the top are not included in the category of complexity of the route.

In general, they are similar to the assessment of passages. The complexity of climbing routes is determined as shown in Tables 4 and 5.

Table 4 - Criteria for assessing the complexity of routes to mountain peaks

K.S. Vershins	The nature of the sides of the vertices	The category of difficulty areas on the route (detail about K.T. See the table below).	Total time (T) overcoming the vertices. Number of insure points (N).
1B	A rock / snow-ice or combined route, tops up to 5000 m high. The average length of the route is 500 m, the average steepness is 10-25 °.	The basis is the sections 0 K.T. It is necessary for the presence of a plot I K.T. (rocky: 20-30 m and more, or ice-snowy: 80-100 m or more) or the presence of several sections II K.T. (each - 3-15 m rocky or 30-40 m ice-snowing character).	t from 1.5 to 8 h .n \u003d 0+
2A.		The base is the sections of 0 and I k.t. It is necessary for the presence of a site II K.T. (rocky: 5-20 m, or ice-snowing: 80-100 m).	t from 2 to 10 k.n \u003d 0+
2B	The rock / snow-ice or combined route, tops with a height of up to 6000 m. The average length of the route is 550 m, the average steepness is 15-30 °.	The base is the sections of 0 and I k.t. It is necessary for the presence of a site II K.T. (rocky: 15-30 m or more, or ice-snowy: 80-100 m or more) or the presence of several sections III K.T. (each - 3-10 m rocky or 20-50 m ice-eyed character).	t from 2 to 10 k.n \u003d 0-3
3A.		The base is the sections I and II K.T. It is necessary to have a plot of III K.T. (rocky: 5-20 m, or ice-snowing: 50-200 m).	t from 3 to 10 b .n \u003d 1-3 Possible descent on the rope.
3b	A rock / snow-ice or combined route, tops up to 6500 m high. The average length of the route is 600 m, the average coolness is 20-40 °.	The base is the sections I and II K.T. It is necessary to have a plot of III K.T. (rocky: 20-30 m, or ice-snowing: 100-300 m) or the presence of several sections IV K.T. (each - 3-15 m rocky or 50-100 m ice-snowing character).	t from 3 to 10 tsp \u003d 2-6pins for the rope.
4A.		The foundation consists of plots II and III K.T. It is necessary to have a plot of IV K.T. (rocky: 20-50 m, or ice-snowing: 50-200 m).	t ≥5 C.N \u003d 10-15 + It may be necessary to organize the night on the route. Descent on the rope.
4b	The rock / snow-ice or combined route, vertices up to 7000 m high. The average length of the route is 650 m, the average coolness is 30-50 °.	The foundation consists of plots II and III K.T. It is necessary to have a plot of IV K.T. (rocky: 40-80 m, or ice-snowy: 200-400 m) or the presence of several sections V К.Т. (each - 3-15 m rocky or 50-150 m ice-snowing character).	t ≥6 Ch .n \u003d 10-20 + In most cases, it will be necessary to organize an overnight on the route. Descent on the rope.
5A.	The rock / snow-ice or combined route, tops up to 7500 m high. The average length of the route is 700 m, the average coolness is 40-60 °.	The basis is the sections of the III and IV K.T. It is necessary for the presence of a section V K.T. (rocky: 10-40 m, or ice-snowing: 100-400 m).	t ≥6 C.N \u003d 15-20 + In most cases, it will be necessary to organize an overnight on the route. Descent on the rope.
5 B	The rock / snow-ice or combined route, tops with a height of more than 2000 m. The average length of the route is 750 m, the average coolness is 45-70 °.	There are practically no plots I and II K.T. The basis is the sections of the III and IV K.T. It is necessary for the presence of a section V K.T. (rocky: 50 m, or ice-snowing: 300-500 m) or the presence of several sections of VI K.T. (3-20 m each).	t ≥8 C.N \u003d 40-50 + In most cases, a technically challenging organization will be required on the route. Descent only on the rope.
6A.	The rock / snow-ice or combined route, tops with a height of more than 3000 m. The average length of the route is 800 m, the average coolness is 65-75 °.	There are practically no plots I-III K.T. The base is the sections of IV and V K.T. We need to have sections VI K.T. (each - 20-40 m or more), a total length of at least 200 m.	t ≥3 days \u003d 100 + A technically complex organization is required on the route (mainly sitting or hanging places). Descent only on the rope.
6b	The rock / snow-ice or combined route, tops with a height of more than 3000 m. The average length of the route is 800 m, the average coolness is 70-80 °.	There are practically no plots I-IV K.T. The basis is the sections V and Vi K.T.	t ≥3 days \u003d 100 + requires a technically complex organization over the route (mainly hanging hammocks TP). Descent only on the rope.

K.T.	Character of plots	Technique passing
0	Skid-ice, rock slopes and ridges of 20-20 °.	Plots pass through the entire group movement.
I.	Skid-ice spots of 15-30 °, uncrowded cliffs.	Plots are passed through the simultaneous movement of the whole group, using the hands to maintain balance.
II.	Skid-ice spots of 25-30 °, uncrowded cliffs.	Plots pass alternately, and experienced climbers - at the same time, using hands to maintain equilibrium.
III	Skid-ice spots of 30-45 °, steep rocks with numerous hooks and protrusions or gentle, but smooth cliffs.	Rock plots pass "free climbing", with a main load on the legs and a backpack on the shoulders. Slow-ice plots are carried out by technique in "Three Takt" or in cats.
IV.	Skid-ice areas (slopes and crests with snowy eaves) 20-55 ° steep areas, steep cliffs with few horses and protrusions.	Rock plots pass "free climbing", the passage with the backpack on the shoulders is possible, but is very difficult. Slow-ice areas are mainly on the front of the cats.
V.	Skid-ice areas (slopes and crests with snowy eaves) steeply more than 45 °, steep cliffs with uncomfortable neglected horses and protrusions.	Rock sections are passing by "free climbing" or with the formulation of artificial points of support (ITO). The passage with a heavy backpack is impossible on the shoulders. Slow-ice sections are mainly in the front of the front of the cats, but mostly with the production of ito.
VI	Rock vertical walls and hounds with uncomfortable, few horses and protrusions.	Passage of sites requires effort at the limit of human capabilities.

There is no official assessment of the backcantry routes in the post-Soviet space. The complexity of the complexity of the backed routers is closely intertwined with the complexity of climbing and tourist routes (Table 6).

Table 6 - Assessment of the complexity of the backcantrian routes ( Vitaliy Rage)

K.S. Route	Difficulty (rating) of descent (sKI)*	Analogue in mountaineering	Middle bias and relief	Features of descent and degree of danger
F -Simple	1, 2.1, 2.2	n / k, flat	≤28 o, hilly terrain without obstacles.	Lack of key sites, risk of loss of control and fall.
Pd. – Not very difficult	2.1-3.2	n / k, cooler	28-35 o, open spaces with small sections of steep relief. Riding in the forest. Not very steep and short narrowings.	Calls for overcoming obstacles. Cool plots with good digest.
AD - Middle	3.2-4.3	1A, 1B.	35-40 o, the steep areas are inevitable. Short and very steep narrowings.	The need for short turns. Risk of injuries with loss of control. Overcoming obstacles require a rapid response.
D. – Complex	4.2-5.2	2a-3A.	40-45 oh, steep slope, rocks, cliffs, ice.	Short turns are still possible. Many obstacles that require excellent equipment ownership. During fall, death is possible.
TD. – Very difficult	5.3+	3B-4B (5a)	45-50 o, very steep slope, many rocky discharges, steps, cliffs, larger cracks.	Partially needed short turns and climbing along the long cool sidelines. It is possible to descend in Dulfer. When falling, death is likely.
ED (EX.) - Extreme	5.4+	5a and above	50-55 o, steep walls and satellites, rock steps, discharges, cliffs, large cracks.	Short turns and climbing on long steep satellites are needed. Passage of Dulifer rock walls. No safe dots to stop

Methods categorizing other types of active tourism can be found in detail in this book on page 86-115. Vostokov I.E., Panov S.N. Russian tourist. Regulatory acts of sports and recreation tourism in Russia for 2001-2004. - M., 2001. Download .

Officially, the passage of routes can be issued in Federation of sports tourism and tourist all-around, we have such . On the site you can find various information of tourist and sporting events on active tourism: competitions, tourists, festivals, water regattam, etc. throughout Kazakhstan. But this, if you want to become an athlete, if not, then join us.

Categories of passes little know, they must be experienced. On the noncategorical, calmly go on the trail to the mountain, then from the mountain, such walking. 1a The easiest of category - enough self-insurance. This is when they insure yourself - alpenstock or, because with a backpack, our jumping and mobility suffers greatly. Well, constant attention - every step should be thought out, taking into account the slippery surface, and "living" stones and mobile bulk. On more complex passes, it is already necessary so carefully trained in nodes, strapping and railings.

Evalnamed in the mountains and emotions. With heavy loads, people are not so kind, someone holds back anger, someone tears. And then you watch the video of another group - the girl rises along the rope and smiles. - Why is she without a backpack? - I could not, the boys were raised for her. And smiles, and when you could not drag your backpack, I didn't want to smile at all.

The knees are a weak place, but not everyone. The load on them is large, especially on the descent, and some wipe the knees for the prevention of elastic bandages. Others suffer from hip joints and this is worse - they will not climb them.

There is another trouble with which you can meet - stretching the bundle on the foot. Neither saving, nor caution - when you, together with a 16 kilogram, literally blows up the wind when moving along slippery valleys of the flooded streams, you can get such a nuisance that you can feel and six months after a hike.

Starindicates a possible increase in the category of pass depending on the conditions of passage.
Rex means increased avalanche.
"Khibiny fall"- November," Khibiny winter spring"- December-April.
The classifier was created by Konstantin Beketov.

name	height	summer	fall	winter spring	Pass connects ...
Academic	1075	1A.	1B	1B	First. The Right. R. Tinyok - R.Tulike
Aku-Aku.	440	N / K.	1A.	N / K.	Ruch.YUMEKORRAYY - Lev. Protect R.Goltsovka
Arsenyeva East	1030	N / K.	1A!	1A!	HRF. EFSMAN - Vost.Tok
West Arsenyev	1000	1A.	1b!	1b!	Ruch.childman - Center. The source is hand. Meirdional
Nameless	925	1B	1b!	1b!	R.Tulikeok - R. Kukisyok
Petrel	1080	2A.	2a *!	2a *!	The source of R. Mal. Bel - R.Kuniokok
Question	940	N / K.	1A.	1A *	Handle, flowing down with per.geographers on Yu-z - Unnamed Lake in the U-Z Circus Xr.Tatarvumchorr
Vortkeuaive	750	N / K.	1A!	1A!	R.Tulikeok - Mine Skirova
Tall	1125	1A.	1b!	1b!	The source r.kalikeok - South. Tsirk Central Leavor
Geographers	880	1A.	1A.	1A.	Promzone Apatity - Oz.Mal.Vukhwer
Gorey (Valley of Waterfalls)	400	N / K.	N / K.	N / K.	R. Tentaryok - next. south of the stream; on the border of the forest
Guriy East (Nikpakhk East)	680	N / K.	N / K.	N / K.
Western Gury (Western Nikpachk)	650	N / K.	1A.	1A.	Koachva Koachva - Ruch.Tomsasaive
Denisian joy	680	1A.	1A.	1A.	HRF. Nefelin - Hands. Snake
Star	300	N / K.	N / K.	N / K.	Hands. Snake - HRM
Impulse (South Yumjector)	840	1A.	1A.	1A.	HRF. Nefelin - Lev.Real
Canyon	680	1A.	1B	1A.	Ruch.Madvezhiy Log - Title. For the south of the stream; In Zap.Prelch V. Stilman
Eaves 1 to 4	1020	1B *	2A.	2a!	Circus per.Chel - HRAK.GAKMAN
Eaves 5.	1010	1B	2A.	2a!	Circus per.Chel - the source of R. Kwyonayok
East Catastrophe (Takhtarvum)	920	1B	2a!	2a!	Lev. R. Mal. Belai - a mark on the south-east of the stream from the handle
Western catastrophe	900	1B	2a!	2a!	Lev. R. Mal. White - HR
Cross (rocky)	1005	1B *	2a!	2a!	Circus per.Fersman - Circus of the origins of the HRF. Petrelius
Cookisvum	480	N / K.	N / K!	N / K!	R.Kuniok - R. Kukisyok
Partition	430	N / K.	N / K.	N / K.	R.Tullyok - R. Kaskasniyok, west of G. Rypnetk
Loparsky	644	N / K.	1A.	1A.	Rudnik I. Kirova (r.oparskaya) - R.Tulike
North leavor	700	N / K.	N / K.	N / K.	R. SEV.LAVOK - R. Perevalal
Leavor Central	925	1B	1b! *	1b! *	R. SEV.LAVOK - R. Kalike
Leavor South	1090	1A.	1B	1B	R. Kalike - R. Lavavyok
Mannepachk	790	N / K.	1A.	1A.	Pr. Protect R.Mannepachk (Individual) - R.Mannepachkayay
Marchenko (Kuelport)	670	N / K.	1A.	1A! (cornice!)	3rd rights. Protect R. Kuniok - R. Rysiok
Namuaiv	520	N / K.	N / K.	N / K.	R. Kalike - R. Maivaliok
Ridiculous	760	N / K.	1A.	1A!	R. MAL. BELAY - HREL., FURNMENT TO NORTER OF R. TTARYK; Eastern V. Chibins
November	790	1A.	1A *	1A *	Rights. R. Mal. White - HRR., FURNMENT. SUGE FROM HERM.MEDWERE LOG
Deceo	563	N / K.	N / K.	N / K.	R. Kalike - R.obmannane
Deer (random)	730	1A.	1B *	1B	Calioc CP.
Orlina	1100	2A.	2a *!	2a!	Ruch. Petrelius - HRF. Theftsman
Partomorr	533	N / K.	N / K.	N / K.	Casquenyunyok - R. Maivaliok
Northern parthorrhr	840	N / K.	N / K.	N / K.	R. Lavavok - R. Maivaliok
Patomchorr South	770	N / K.	1A.	1A.	R. Lavavok - R. SEV.Kaskasnyunyok
Petrelius East	883	1A.	1B	1B
Petrelius Western	840	N / K.	1B	1A.	R. MAL.BELAY - HRR. Petrelius
Full	1100	2A-2B.	2B!	2B!	"Circus Fersman" - Sev.TSirk V. Khunchorr; By the sidelion on the glacier №2
Postman	600	N / K.	1A.	1A.	Ruch.Madvezhy Log - HRF. Nephlean
PuTulousorr.	780	1A.	1B	1B	R.Kuniokov - Lev. Protect R. Bassaine Kun
Rainbow	600	N / K.	N / K.	N / K.	Oz.Komarina - Guba Tulilukht; Eastern G.Norkpakhk
Ramzaya.	800	N / K.	N / K.	N / K.	R. MAL.BELAY - Ruch. Pauchyok
Figure North	900	N / K-1A	1A.	1A.	R.Kaskasenyunyok (Caution. Marakothova Cupid) - Sitting The source R. Rysiok
Figure South	890	N / K.	1A.	1A.	R. Kaskasnyunyok (Caps. Witch Gorge) - South. The source R. Rysiok
Saddle Wallepachka	600	N / K.	1A.	1A.	Pr. Prit R.obmanny - R. Kalike
Seven samurai	1050	1B	2a!	2a!	HRR. Meirdional - Sev. Tskark V. Khunchorr; through spong
Suoluyiv East	560	N / K.	N / K.	N / K.	R. Kalike - R. Maivaliok
Suoluyiv Western	640	N / K.	N / K.	N / K.	R. Kalike - R. Maivaliok
Takhtar	1120	1B *	2a *!	2a *!	Circus of the left side of the valley R. MAL.BELAY - HRR. PhotoPachek
Takhtarvum (Takhtarvurchor Roma)	955	1B	2A.	2a!	Lev. R. Mal. Belai - Handle. The first south of the hand.
Crack	960	2A.	2a *	2a *	Option Pass Eaves, actually via V. Bastion
Umbozersky	527	N / K.	N / K.	N / K.	R.Partowayok - R. SEV.Kaskasnyunyok
Gorge rocky	600	N / K.	N / K.	N / K.	Gor. Kirovsk (R. Babel.) - Handle. with per.geographers
Fersman	980	1B	2a *	2A.	hand. Meridional - hand. Fersman
Chalnchorr	1130	1B	1B *!	2a!	Circus per.Fermsman - the first left influx of the handle. Petrelius
Chilman	790	N / K.	1A.	1A.	hand. Chilman - Lev.Itok HRF. MEDWERE LOG
Chorgor North	1020	1A.	1b!	1b!	R.Kuniokok - R.indivichvumyok (Mannepachk)
Chorgor South	850	N / K.	1B	1A.	R.Kuniok - Handle. Pialyok
Charm of Hybinpachkchorra (North-South)	780	1A.	1B	1B	Lev. R.Goltsovka River - Yumyekor
Gap Euleslogchorra	820	1B	1B *!	1B *!	R.Tulike Prit River - R. Wonder
Euleslogchorrere East	810	N / K.	N / K.	N / K.	R. DUONNEYOK - Ruch.Tomshasuyv
Euleslogchorrere Western	900	N / K.	1A.	1A.	R.Tulike PRT - R. Wondre
Euleslogchorr Central	900	1B	1B *!	1B *!	Pr.prit P.Pritok R.Tulike - R. Wonder
Juxosset	674	N / K.	N / K.	N / K.	R. DUONNEYOK - R. Yuksporkiyok
Yumjekorr.	700	N / K.	N / K.	N / K.	Handle.YUMEKorriai - Lev. Criminal Person. Meirdional

	The most sophisticated area	Number of Insurance Points	Transition time
N / K.
	Outdown and rock slopes up to 30gr Glaciers up to 15 gr		Few hours
	Snowy and Outlined Clones up to 45 gr, light cliffs		No more than 1 day
	Snowy, Ice, Rock slopes up to 45gr, Lands		No more than a day
	Snowy, Ice, rock slopes Over 45gr, Lands, Wall sections up to 15 meters		No less than a day
	Snowy, Ice, rock slopes up to 65g, icefalls, wall plots up to 2 ropes
	Snowy, Ice, Rock slopes Over 60g, Lands, Wall sections of more than 2 ropes		At least two days

Category Difficulty Pass	The nature of the most complex areas of the path	Technique and conditions of movement, Bivaki	Total time to overcome the pass. The number of insure points (N). Length of the determining site (L)	Required special equipment
1A.	Simple felon, snowy and rock slopes of steepness up to 30 °; gear (up to 15 °) glaciers without cracks; steep herbaceous slopes, on which areas of rocks are possible; Usually the presence of a trail on approaches.	The simplest individual vehicle technique; Samostraovka alpenstock or ice ax. When crossing through rivers at approaches may require insurance using a rope. Overnight, as a rule, in the forest or meadow zone.	Several hours .n \u003d 0; L \u003d 0.	Footwear on a non-slip sole, alpenshtoks, safety belts (chest straps) and carbines for each participant. 1-2 Main ropes per group.
1B	Uncomplicated rocks; Snow and felous slopes of the average steepness (from 20 to 45 °), and in some years and ice areas on the slopes, usually covered with snow; Closed glaciers with sections of hidden cracks	The simplest collective technique: simultaneous movement in bundles on slopes and closed glaciers. Handling railing on the slopes and with crossings. Possible overnight stays on the border of the glacial zone.	Not more than one day.n \u003d up to 5; L \u003d up to 40-50 m.	Boots on a corrugated sole, alpenstocks or ice axes (1-2 ice axes per group must), safety systems and carbines for each participant. On one main rope for every 3-4 people. Crocheus rock and ice (3-4 per group), rock or ice hammer.
2A.	Rock, snowy, ice slopes of medium steepness (from 20 to 45 °); Closed glaciers and uncomplicated icefalls.	More complex individual and collective technique: alternating or group (periodile) insurance, use of "cats" or cutting steps; Could take hoo insurance. Overnight in the glacial zone are possible.	No more than a day.n \u003d 5-10; l \u003d up to 80-100 m (2-3 ropes in a row)	In addition to those listed for 1b to. T., Ice axes and "cats" for each participant, hooks in the required quantity and assortment. On one main rope for every 2-3 people.
2B	Steep (over 45 °) snowy, ice and rock slopes of medium complexity, short (up to 10-15 m) wall seats are possible; The icefills of medium complexity.	The use of the entire most common arsenal of technical techniques: periodile or alternate insurance, the use of hooks; Movement of the first on the rise, and the last on the descent without a backpack, separate lifting and descent of backpacks; Descent on the rope ("Duchfer"). As a rule, inevitable overnight people in the glacial zone.	No less than a day .n \u003d 5-20; L \u003d up to 200 m (3-5 ropes in a row)	In addition to the 2a k. T., Brake devices for descent over the rope and (preferably) clips for lifting. Auxiliary rope, loops, consumables rope and hook for descent.
3A.	Steep (from 45 to 65 °) snow, ice and rock slopes of considerable extent; Wall sections up to 1-2 ropes in a row; Sophisticated icefalls.	The use of various techniques of movement and insurance at the extended areas, including the use of artificial supports, ladder, anchors, etc. Usually, pre-exploration and processing of the route. Tactics acquires the prevailing value. Inevitable repeated overnight people in the ice zone. The Bivak organization may require high time and strength.	Up to two days.n \u003d 10-40; L \u003d from 200 to 500 m (up to 10 ropes in a row)	In addition to the equipment listed above, clips for lifting by rope; It is possible to use basic and auxiliary ropes of increased length; It may be necessary to use ladies, bookmarks and hooks extracted during descent.
3b	The same as for 3a, but with a high length of complex areas, a variety of their character or limit complexity, including walls of steepness of 60 ° and more.	The need for practically continuous mutual and group insurance for many hours and even the day; special, designed to overcome this pass, preparation; excellent ownership of technique by all participants; Impecable tactics. Perhaps the absence of places for overnight cars, which requires the organization "Sitage" or "hanging" Bivakov.	At least two days.n \u003d more than 30; l \u003d 500 m and more (more than 10 ropes in a row)	The same as for 3a. Equipment may be required, specially prepared for overcoming a specific pass.

Notes:

1. The technical complexity of the plots and methods of their overcoming, given in graphs 2, 3 and 4, are characterized only for this category of passages of passages and are not found when overcoming the passages of previous categories. It is allowed to have sections of any length with the complexity characteristic of the passages of the preinfect categories.
2. Under insurance points are meant the places (positions) of fixing and rope rope using ice ax, hooks with carbines, rocky protrusions, ice columns, over the shoulder, lower back, etc., necessary for the mood of the railing and for insurance that goes first on the rise and the latter descent.
3. The presence of potentially dangerous areas (cochovels, avalanches, ice rods) does not affect the category of the difficulties of the pass and should be taken into account in the tactics of passage and in the selection of equipment.
4. To pass the passages of any category of difficulty in winter conditions or with deep snow cover on the slopes, it is additionally required to have avalanche cords (20 m) for each participant and avalanche shovels by one for every 2-3 people.

The time of passing from the border to the forest border: 5-6 hours, in winter: 5-8 h.

HISTORY AND DATE OF PREVENTION: Pass was first passed by Irkutsk tourists during the expedition on the classification of passages in October 1970. The pass was named according to the first letters of the participants of the detachment that studied Pass: Buchetseva G., Egorov Yu., Pelageikin V.N., Kukushkin V. N. (hands.), Antipyev G.N., Nemchenko M.I.

Special Equipment: Rope Main

The pass is one of the most popular and reliable passes through GWC, is often used to navigate or exit a route in a bunch with feathers. Dinosaur (1A).

The pass is in the right circus of the main stream (r. Barun-Handagai). Approach to the lake located at the foot of the lane. Dinosaur, runs along the cripples and overcoming moraine swollen. Above the lakes, you can continue moving along the river bed arising from the circus, and you can leave abruptly left (100-150 m, up to 25-30 ° to Morane and traversing the inclined plateau, folded by the moored indirect rocks, go under the pass. Sedloval is expressed completely unequivocally - It is an oval fission saddle, clamped with rock vertices. Transfer rise to a length of 80-100 m and 30-35 ° with a dirty slope and removes to the saddle. The duration of the rise from the forest border is about 2-3 hours.
The saddle of the pass is wide, oid. Tour in the center. Well visible n. San, Per. Snow (1B), per. Dinosaur (1a).
Directly under the saddle there is a rock reset, so it is necessary to go to the right to go to the right of 40-50 m to go to the right (the trail is read), and then down the cutting sideline, squeezed rocks. Kuluard steepness 25-30 °, a length of about 100 meters. And then to the lake located on the bottom of the circus along the extended felous slope (about 400 m, up to 35-40 °). The duration of descent is about 1 h.

From under the pass movement along the Morane along the right stream, to the border of the forest about 40-50 minutes.

From the part The bilyuta pass is located on the left (along the way) between the vertices almost on the circuit of the circus. Saddle trapezoidal, expressed definitely.

In winter, approach under skis pass. The approach itself and the rise to the pass is practically not avalanche. When leaving the saddle, stick to the scales on the left (along the way).

The descent and traverse towards the bilyuta is potentially avalanche. The movement here must be carried out in compliance with all the measures of the illegal safety along the rocks.

Potentially avalanchers also clarify from under the Pass - there were cases of a waste of powerful side avalanches in almost the forest zone.

The passage of the pass in winter may increase by 1-2 hours.

Description provided by L.E. Fighting.

In mountainous tourism and mountaineering, there are categories of complexity (K.S.), determined by the Unified All-Russian sports classification of tourist routes (EARSCTM) and recommendations for the classification of climbing routes approved by the Russian climbing federation.

The category of complexity of the hike consists of among the complexity of local obstacles, from the length of the route and its duration. In total, there are six categories of hiking complexity and for local obstacles - pass and vertices. Hiking are classified from 1st to 6th K.S., and for local obstacles, such gradations are introduced: non-icted passes (N.K.), 1A, 1B, 2A, 2B, 3A, 3B.

"Necategorized" (NK) Camping are used to prepare newcomers and are available to everyone, as well as the campaign of the 1st category of complexity. They are distinguished by the fact that they lack the number of passages or they are too short. Usually hiking N.K. and 1st K.S. Pass in low mountainous areas, they are not terrible for health and do not require special technical skills and special equipment.

Plots of the second - simple difficulty - these are snow-ice areas of 25-30 ° and non-cristed rocks. When passing, elementary climbing preparation is required.

Plots of the third - medium difficulty are ice-snowing areas with a steepness of 30-45 °. From this category of difficulty, the alpineism itself begins, since the movement in such sites requires special climbing and equipment for organizing a safe movement (insurance).

Plots of the fourth - above average difficulty (difficult). These are cool (40-55 °) ice-snowing slopes and crests with a variety of snowy eaves, the passage of which requires the intense free climbing and good possession of those in the course of the movement of the subgroup relief. Equipment: climbing shoes, cats, ice axes, for organizing insurance and self-insurance - various rock hooks, ice axes, bookmarks, carbines, hammers, consumable reps, rope.

Sections of fifth difficulties are cool (more than 45 °) ice-snow slopes, walls and crests with a variety of snowy eaves, which are held on the front of the cats, but basically require the creation of artificial support points. To pass these sites, good special climbing technical, tactical, physical and moral preparation is required. Equipment: Special climbing shoes, cats, ice axes, a large set of diverse rocky hooks, mortgage elements, borants, carbines, hammers, auxiliary reputant, ladder. Insurance and self-insurance - only hooks, the descents are carried out only by Dühlifermi.

Sections of the sixth difficulty are smooth vertical and hanging cliffs with a very limited number of uncomfortable and small in size, stops, protrusions, ledges necessary for the organization of movement, and even cracks that allow organize artificial points. There are practically no short narrow (per person) shelves for recreation. Plots demand for their passage of excellent ownership of the highest climbing special technique of movement, tactical, physical, psychological and moral training, possession of special climbing equipment and can be a limited number of very well-trained climbers athletes.