Impressions about the top Mongolia film engagement. Mongolia: Subjective Practical Overview

- The idea of \u200b\u200bthe trip to Mongolia arose after our very pending friends visited there. Usually they stop in hotels not lower than 4 stars, and here Suddenly Mongolia! They lived in the yurts, were already three times time on Hubsugul and always talked with delight. At the same time, then there was a visa - three thousand rubles. I madly sorry to pay 12,000 on my family, and this year the visas were canceled, and we decided to celebrate my birthday in Mongolia, because the rest in the beloved Many Thailand became very expensive.

As it turned out, information about trips to Mongolia is very and very little. Where to stop? What to see? What are the nuances when crossing the border? The information was literally collected. The most important accommodated accommodation. They first and took up. The choice is very and very affected. Of the most famous - the base of the "Edge of the Earth" and "Silver Coast". Both are near. "The edge of the Earth" attracted the presence of well-maintained numbers that we still did not take advantage. But with detached landscaped toilets, washbasins and shower cabins used to the full coil. Did not book the base through well-known sites only because they simply have no offers on Hubsugulu. By the way, the weather in this place is also not so easy to learn on the Internet. The application in the phone cannot find neither the lake nor the village of Khanha, but claims that haha \u200b\u200bis a city in the province of Tea-Nat Thailand.

So, we are going to a large company - 9 adults and 6 children, no youngest years old. We plan to go for 4 cars. Family couple of two people I book a 3-seater yurt (800 rubles per person per night). Two families of 2 adults and 2 children in the 4-seater yurt (700 rubles per person). At the same time, payment only for adults. Children under 7 years old for free. My fourth yurt is a company of 3 adults and 2 children.

So, in early May everything is booked. By the end of the month, 20% of the claimed amount was paid. The rest is based on. We leave on July 2, we return the 6th. What to take? What to buy? What products-things? I read customs rules: it is forbidden to import raw meat, and on the spot you can buy only lamb and meat yak. And we somehow more accustomed to pork in kebabs. Next - you can carry 1 liter of strong and up to 5 liters of stamining drinks. I recommend to take vegetables and fruits, this is not there at all. Running ahead will say that the kitchen-tent, tourist chairs and tables, in general, need to be equipped like Baikal, are not mistaken to equipped.

We went on a trip we at 7 am. The first car went far ahead due to the appearance of unforeseen circumstances. We rewrite through SMS messages and applications, we learn that at the post in the village of Shaluti, where they collect money for travel to Arshan, the friends asked the passports. In order to make sure that they are really in Mongolia, and not in Arshan. We also asked passports, but did not look.

Now a little numbers. Distance from Irkutsk to Lake Houbsugul is about 330 kilometers. You need to go to the village of Monda, the road asphalt. From the village to the border of about 10 kilometers. It is necessary to make a complete refueling of the car in the cooler and return to the Kyrena. In mondes, refueling is non-instructed. So write. But we refrain there, in monda. You can reflect on Hubsugul only in the village of Hanh, but only with a diesel fuel and gasoline A-80. From the border to Khanh 22 kilometers of the Gravel Road.

In mondes on the PPC, they take passports for 10 minutes. There, on the border, we met with a huge Hagoning Woods, so the sprays need to be taken necessarily. Columns of cars skip in turn. First on one side of the border, then on the other. The time of passage was obtained 2-2.5 hours. Drivers fill the declarations if something heavy, more than 50 kilograms drive. My husband paid a duty in the amount of 70 rubles - all drivers pay it. Passengers fill the declaration if something subject to declaration is taken, they will tell about it on the border.

On the Mongolian border filled the registration list. The driver additionally fills the leaflet in which the customs and border guards mark. You will tell you everything and show. CAT on the border works from 9 to 17 hours without days off.

Here we are in Mongolia, driving away from the border, and immediately some gearbox with a barrier. People in the form collect 100 rubles from an adult for visiting the National Park. If you do not check the receipt on the way back, then you will have to pay again. Another important point is registration. At the entrance or leaving you need to register in the administration of the village for 170 rubles per person.

When exchanging views with other travelers, Hubsugul finds out that someone paid for both children too. Someone paid not 170, and 300 rubles. In general, no clarity on this issue.

From the border there is a gravel road, we see the pointers closer to the village with the name of our base and now we are already before the gate. For a while we are looking for an administrator and go to get acquainted with the placement. And it turns out that everything is in order with three yurts, and the fourth yurt is some kind of Yurt Khan. We go to watch. This is the most extreme yurt, secluded, with its territory. It has a huge 2 bedroom bed, unfolding sofa, table with chairs, wardrobe with hangers, two bedside tables, two chests, stove, heater. In Yurt 4 outlets. In ordinary yurts, also a furnace and a heater. Nobody warned us about this yurt, but it is 4000 rubles per day - we somehow did not count on such money. But in the process of payment, we are told that it is from two adults 4000 rubles, and even for the third 1500 per day will pay extra, as a result, they agreed on 4,000 for the yurt.

On the second day of our stay, they went to inspect the surroundings, in the role of conductors - relatives who are no longer for the first time in Mongolia. So, we leave the base on three cars. We are going for some kind incredible road, all in stones. Worse, the road only to Hoboy on Olkhon.

Drive to the coast of Hubsugul. Lonely tent. If you want loneliness, take a break from everyone, then you definitely on Hubsugul. Never around! Not a single soul. Ringing silence is easy! And we are going on a charius that you can catch hands standing in the river! At least our relatives were caught last year! We are going in anticipation, come, and the river is half dry, and the charians do not even smell there. We went to another lake, but there are no fish and there. We did not despair and arranged a picnic.

On the way back, we visit Hanh. He is just on the way to our base. In one cafe we \u200b\u200bare told that only hushura is available. With surprise I find out that in Mongolia Khushura - Chebureks. Going on. In another cafe Choice Season. Stop. We order poses for 30 rubles and try the first national dish - Tsuyang (150 rubles). It is noodles, potatoes and meat. Ordered an average portion, but she was great for one person.

Familiarity with local cuisine continued the next day. I wanted to surprise the guests with something in my holiday, and the Bazi administrator suggested Khorhard. For its cooking, lamb is used. Meat on the bone cuts into pieces. From ten to twenty smooth stones with a fist size put into the fire. Meat and hot stones are placed in a metal vessel, which often uses a milk bidone, salt, spices are added. Often prepared with vegetables (carrots, cabbage, potatoes). Next, the required amount of water is added, the vessel is closed with a lid and put on fire. Quenching is warm from fire and hot stones. The dish is preparing half an hour. The contents of the vessel are unfolded by portions, and guests are given by hot stones. They absorb fat in the cooking process and become black and slippery. Eating chorog usually hands.

We also tasted the local delicacy - a fried lap liver, wrapped in fat. For my taste, very fat! As for the chorogog, I got a hard piece of meat, and my friends are soft. In general, the dish I didn't like it at all. By the way, in the cooking process, our chorogi was taken with the words "on the stove will be faster." Unauthorized somehow. According to the rules, everything should be reached by fire and with stones. I have a solid disappointment from this dish. Cooking a whole ram costs 8,000 rubles, half - 4000, and a quarter - 2000. We ordered the last, all had enough with interest.

Of course, Mongolian tea tried. And they prepare it like: the water is boiled in a cast-iron boiler, the tile green tea is thrown into it, milk is added, boiled to complete readiness, then add salt, oil, roasted flour, slightly roasted laundry Kurdyuk, bone brain of the ram. Tea with such components often serves as many food to nomads for many days. On the surface of such tea floats a thin layer of fat. Drink it without sugar. As they say, it is better to try once, although for people with weak stomachs such tea drinking can be fraught with too pleasant consequences. Honestly confess, this tea is more like a soup.

The fourth day in Mongolia was devoted to travel around the surrounding area. So we saw that the manure was dried - they are drowning in the yurt, however, firewood was used. We are going without a conductor, Naobum, and now stop in very interesting placeBy the way, like Olkhon. OK - sacred Mongolian place. The Shamanskoe sanctuary of Arvan-Gourvan-Oboh, literally translated into Russian "13 Ob.", is located on a protruding rocky Hanginsky Cape. This place was sanctified in 2005, at the same time there were 13 new ones from large white boulders, which were brought on several trucks, and the whole village tuskled stones and folded the sanctuary. Shaman's rites are practiced at this place and at present, the fresh fires and skulls of sacrificial animals can be seen next to the central ob.

Later we walked along the rocks over the shore - the view as in the Maldives. I'm just sure that when you are abroad, you do not think about how your phone calls the place of your stay. And it's funny. For example, we are on Hubsugul, but the phone considers otherwise. A similar situation was on phi-Phi Island In Thailand.

On this I complete my story about Mongolia. It is truly distant, and close. The country is located in a little more than 300 kilometers from Irkutsk. But it is so far away from us! For development, according to customs, in the life level. Although they say that in Ulan-Bator, everything is completely different. Probably, I'll want to check it out. Would you like to go back? More likely no than yes. At least, not in the near future. Do I advise you to go to Mongolia? Definitely yes! To make your own opinion about this country.

For traveling in Mongolia, I almost did not prepare. Two weeks before the border crossing, I did not know what I will go there. Therefore, many things that should learn in advance and read more in place, passed by me. Perhaps I missed some attractions that were on my way. But in any case, I think my little experience will be useful for the next generations of travelers. General issues described in different kind guides (how to travel on airplanes, trains, cars, horses, etc.), I will not affect, see for this link in the "Information" section. I will tell only about what I saw and heard with my own eyes.

Technical information
In Mongolia, I was from June 19 to July 8, 2009. Together with the Polyachka, now working in Ulan-Ude, we drove into the country through a border crossing in Kyakhte (Republic of Buryatia), held two days in Ulan Bator, drove along the route Ulan - Battle - Arvaiher - Bayanhongor - Altai - Hovd - Ulaangom - Harhorin - Ulan Bator. Then I was already driving on the route Ulan-Batar - Wanda © Rhaan - Bayan-Wool and left to Russia through the borderline of Upper Ulhong (Zabaykalsky region). Most of the path drove the hitchhiking, part - on the minibuses and buses.
Hereinafter, in the text, I use the original Mongolian names of geographic objects, with the exception of the Ulan Bator, which I will write in the traditional Russian transliteration (on Mongolian the name of the city is written as "Ulaanbaatar").
Travel Map

Pros and cons
Mongolia is known two things. The first is the nomadic population, which preserved the traditional lifestyle. It is said that for Mongols, life has not changed much since the times of Genghis Khan, and it looks like the truth: a significant part of the country still lives in yurts, breeds cattle, cares from places to sites in search of new pastures, eats meat and milk. Unless now, many on UAZ and Japanese trucks now, and the most wealthy, near Yurts are satellite antennas and solar panels. And otherwise the same thing is to the national costumes that the Mongols are not worn on large holidays, but in everyday life.
The second plus is beautiful and untouched by man nature. This is not the dull steppe of the south of Russia or Ukraine, who has a boredom and longing. Mongolian steppe landscapes are always beautiful and diverse and very rarely mutilated by human buildings. The leaving the distance of the plain on the horizon is always framed by beautiful hills, somewhere come across picturesque rocks Or stones, somewhere the steppe goes into the stony or sandy desert, somewhere replaced by the mountains covered with the forest. And on these Mongolian expanses here and there are yurts and wander the fat herds of large and small cattle: cows, goats, sheep, horses, camels, yaks.
Cons Mongolia logically flow out of the advantages. Beautiful nature And the traditional lifestyle has been preserved due to the fact that the civilization has not yet reached here. Only Ulan Bator, whose photos I have already shown, can be called civilized citywhere there is everything you need for life. Most of the rest of the cities are the urban-type settlements. The regional center of Mongolia resembles the most recent Russian district center, Mongolian district centers and remind the villages. And between these cities, huge spaces extend, where the human presence is noticeable only on the lonely yurts yes, and rut in the steppe (see the section "Roads").
In general, after traveling in Mongolia, Russia begins to seem quite a civilized country in which there are many automotive and railways, roadside cafes, toilets, shops and supermarkets. When I went out of Mongolia to Russia, there was a clear feeling that I was returning from Asia to Europe - because the last 50 km before the border was the killed dirt road with the pit and puddles, on which 1-2 cars were passing a day, and after the border, a smooth asphalt began With good traffic. In a word, it's nice that we have ever overtaken about a hundred years ahead. The only thing about Mongolia was noticeably ahead of us - this is the development of animal husbandry. After you see the herd of several hundred animals, which, like a locust, occupied the green Mongolian pasture, not very happily look at three or four thin hungry cows, wandering around some Transbaikal village.
But, otherwise, as I said, our country is much civiful. With all my passion for travel, I still love comfort, smooth roads, fast cars, hot lunch at least once a day and hot shower at least once every two days, and in Russia after Mongolia returned with some relief. So read the descriptions of Mongolia and think about how you should - are you ready for such difficulties or better go to the hitchhiking trip to the countries of Benilyux.
Information

Guide Lonely Planet in Mongolia (English)
Report of travelers on the BPClub.ru forum
For acquaintance with a cultural and historical context, I recommend to read the wonderful book of the ISAE Kalashnikov "Cruel Age" (1st part and 2nd part) - the history of the life of Genghis Khan from birth to death, and also to see the great film Nikita Mikhalkov "Urga - the Territory of Love" about the relationship between Russian and Mongols in China.
Visas
In Russia, there is a Mongolian embassy in Moscow, as well as consulates in Ulan-Ude, Irkutsk, Kyzyl. It is usually impossible to make a visa on their own without an invitation, they immediately refer to travel agency. In Ulan-Ude, the registration of a visa in a travel agency costs 2300 rubles, including consular fees, and takes 10-12 days. In the comments, they say that in Moscow things are better - I do not know, check with the commentator. Previously, a visa was made in the Kyzyl Consulate without an invitation, but now, I think this is no longer.
Hit
There is already 10 border crossings between Russia and Mongolia. It is usually working from 9.00 to 17.00. For more information about the transition of the border in Kyakhte, I wrote, in Ulukhun -. Interestingly, only three transitions are international, that is, there may be a border of third countries. So if you are not a citizen of Mongolia or Russia, it will be possible to move the border only in Kyakhte (Buryatia) or Tashanta (Altai Republic), or move it by train to the mains (Buryatia). Note that the transition to Kyakhte is a car, it is impossible to cross it, so if you are going to stop, you will have to fit into some car on the border. Transition in Upper Ulukhun (Transbaikal Territory) - pedestrian, sit in a car or a bus no one forces.
From Ulan-Ude in Ulan-Batar, there are buses every day, in addition, the train Moscow - Ulan Bator takes place through the capital of Buryatia. How things are in other regions - I do not know.
Expensive
Before traveling to Mongolia, I thought that there were no roads in Russia. Now I realized that in our country there are still there, and even quite good. Because Mongol dear is such a tin that you will most likely see anywhere. Only from north to south, from Russia to China through Ulan-Batar leads a decent asphalt road, plus there are plots from Ulan-Bathan to West to Arvahheer (569 km, of which, of which, 50-60 km are not yet built) with a branch Harhorin and from Ulan Bator east to Wanda © Rhaan (331 km). Perhaps there are other sites, but I didn't go on them.
The remaining expensive, including the most important routes connecting the West and East of the country, are usually three or four rolling ruts in the steppes that converge-diverge and lead from one town to another. There is no refueling, no cafes, no kilometer pillars between the settlements, no piggybacks, nor cellular coating - only naked plain, according to which everyone goes as he wants. However, the quality of the roads is that it will not be able to break the speeding regime at all desire, and the abundance of the killets reduces collisions to a minimum. The relief is usually such that you can even move from the rut and go along the steppe in any direction.
According to such roads, some manage to ride even on simple cars, but it is still better to use SUVs - Japanese jeeps or Russian UAZ. The latter, by the way, is preferable, because the Mongols are very common and, what happens that you will quickly find spare parts. Mongols travel on motorcycles, Korean minibuses, Japanese trucks, Russian Kamaz. Foreign tourists usually move on jeep and motorcycles. So, on the track we met colleagues four times: Poles on motorcycles, a group of French on jeeps, one Australian motorcyclist and a company of Koreans, who traveled to a minibus (most likely, also Korean).
If you are going on your transport, be sure to store the GPS-navigator - instead of the roads here are directions, so it's quite really get lost, going by chance by a track leading to some kind of distant village. The card is better to buy on Mongolian - then it will be easier to figure out the nomads where you are and where you go. If you travel hitchhiking, it is possible in principle to do without a navigator - drivers usually know the road and go from one city to another. The main thing is to find out where the driver goes exactly, and further entrust him to search the right path.
Hitch-hiking
Mongolia is the most difficult country for the car from all I was. However, the hitchhiker is interesting here and funny, and if you have time in stock, you can ride in this way. Just consider some features of the Mongolian highway.
The first and main problem is low traffic. Very good ride only on asphalt tracks (see the section "Roads"). The track is still quite revived from border guard in Tashanta to Ulan Bator (through Ulaang and Cezzarleg), although it is sometimes possible to wait for a few hours. On the rest of the roads, the cars are extremely rare - up to three or four cars per day. So be patient, and still books, magazines or crosswords - you can take something at least to take yourself until half a day sit at the track. In short, "in the backpack my fat and matches and Turgenev eight volumes" is just about Mongolia. We have some times so bored to sit at the road that we took backpacks and went on foot, so many Mongols have drivers and locals - the feeling that we are still going on their own country. The essence of the hitchhought to explain to them is difficult, so even better. Still keep in mind that between regional centers (if this road does not lead to Ulan-Batar) the traffic is completely low - for example, from Ulaangoma in Mu © Rhus © N is unlikely you can get directly, because the main flow of cars in Ulan-Batar is south , through Cezzarleg. And on the local roads, do not even stand and try to try, if you do not want to get stuck somewhere for a week.
The second problem is the choice of the desired gauge for the vote. The easiest way to travel out of a major city: usually a few kilometers before and after a major settlement there is one asphalt road, so it is enough to get out of the city and start voting from this road. A different thing is in the steppe or small towns and villages. Here the ruts can be diverted to the distance to a half-kilometer and it is quite difficult to choose from them. Sometimes you can navigate through the power lines - usually pillars are standing along the main rut, but this rule does not always work. It is best to find some exaltation, from where it opens the view of the surroundings, follow, which expensive the car will appear on, and in the case of which it is quick to move there. If you wore your hands, and the driver will see you, he will most likely stop or even turns and comes to you.
The third problem is the overcrowding of cars. During the trip, we only went twice in the car, where there was one driver. Usually, in addition to him, there are passengers in the car, which, as a rule, occupy all the places. Interestingly, cars stop, even if they are overflowing - to find out if something happened to you, but it is not always possible to sit in a stopping car. Sometimes you go to the car in the car in the back seat, putting on the knees of the Mongolian child, sometimes you lie on the luggage in the body of a truck, covering dust and sand, sometimes you sit on a sleeping bag in the cockpit, slightly blowing a bunch of things and distant relatives of the driver, whom He took with him. In short, do not wait comfort.
And the fourth problem is the money-freeness of the local population. In principle, everything is expected to be money for trivia, but most persuades for free. "No money" Mongolian "Mungo Bayhgo" - and before landing in the car, always one or twice, say these words. Only four times the drivers, having heard such a phrase, were disappointed further - and all these times happened on a busy site of the route, where we quickly caught the next car. In the rest of the places, drivers understand that you will wait for the next car for another half a day, and after heavy thoughting, they still nod - they say, climbs. However, truckers and wealthy Ulan-Batorians on jeeps do it without long thought. But still it's a bit hard - especially after Russia, where there are practically no one about money about money, and I don't even warn that I'm for free.
In short, I recommend, if you allow funds, ride in Mongolia on your motor transport. If the funds do not allow, but allows time, use a bike - it will be slightly slower, and if you are an experienced cycleriker, it may even faster than the hitchhiking. So, for example, a plot from Bayanhongor to Altai long in 390 km we traveled in three days. A plot from the city of Bayan-Wool to the border crossing of Upper Ulhun a length of 49 km I drove all day - here I could walk on foot during the same time.
But still the hitchhiker helps to get acquainted with the local life, chat with Mongols, many of whom know Russian. So if the listed difficulties do not confuse you, collect a backpack - and forward.
Flight transport
Only in Ulan-Bator has some kind of car station, with which buses on a certain schedule and tariffs go to different regional centers. In the other cities, the buses either do not go at all, or go like God for the soul. Travel guides recommend looking for minibuses in the city market. There you can also find drivers who go to other cities, and are looking for travelers to compensate for expenses. Lonely Planet for some reason exactly calls the "hitchhiker" - that is, it recommends to go to the market and find such a car. I do not know, in my opinion, the traditional motorway is still more effective.
In prices for buses to navigate quite difficult. For example, from Ulan Bator to the Moon (130 km) we drove for 6 thousand tugres, but from Ulan Bator to Darkhan (220 km), my fellow traveler went for the same money. Although, maybe the fact is that Darkhan go along the asphalt road, and part of the path to the moon - already described in the steppe.
Overnight
Even who travels in Mongolia must certainly spend the night from nomads. It's easy enough to do it - it's enough to approach the yurt in the steppe and politely ascend. During our only one in the yurt, we did generally very delicately: they asked if it was possible to put a tent next to the yurt, but then, while we were sitting and rested after a hot day, we were invited to the yurt itself. In general, if it was in the steppe and there will be a yurt - boldly suggest a visit. It is better to take in advance candies and chocolates - distribute children, put something on the table to tea and everyone will be happy. If you're lucky, get to abundant dinner, but we just drank tea and goat milk.
Another a good option Overnight - roadside cafes. Almost every one there is one or more large beds with a width of 4-5 meters, where anyone who orders dinner or breakfast in this eating can be spent free of charge. Usually dinner per person costs 2-3 thousand tugres. True, on the same bed a few more people will sleep, but free travelers in the presence of their own sleeping bag, I think it will not embarrass.
In major cities there are hotels. We stayed in those two times - in the city of Arvyahher, the room for two cost 11 thousand tugres, in Altai - 15 thousand tugres. In the first hotel there was no soul, in the second - hot water. But if that, in cities you can find public bathswhere you can take a shower for 1-2 thousand tugres.
In particularly promoted among tourists, there are Guesthouses and hostels, including seeing legal campgrounds (several Yurt, in which you can spend the night). However, those who spent the night in the real yurt, it will not be particularly interesting: inside there are no attributes of nomadic life, only a few beds and bedside tables. In Harhorina, such a guesthouse cost 5 thousand tugres with a person.
Well, a huge selection of overnight stay in Ulan Bator. Firstly, this is the only city where more or less active members of Hospitalityclub and Couchsurfing are living, so that no challenges can find free overnight. Secondly, there are hotels, hostels, geeshaus for every taste and pocket. By the way, in Guesthouse Golden Gobi there is a discount of Russian and Poles: the chief administrator was so straight and said, so for the night they paid not six, but five dollars per person. Keep in mind.
Food
Vegetterians in Mongolia do nothing. All vegetables and fruits will be taken from China, and the Mongols themselves make and eat almost all of meat or milk. Only in Ulan Bator can find vegetable salads, in other places such a luxury is rare. I have always been a meat and antiveganom, but then I even started experiencing nostalgia by vinegret or tomato-cucumber salad. So be prepared if you don't carry meat at all, buy the necessary products in Ulan Bator and carry them with you.
The most popular dish in Mongolia - Buouza, known those who have been in the Irkutsk region or Buryatia, under the name "posture". This small meat, wrapped in the dough and cooked for a pair. Very tasty and nutritious thing - so that I will have enough 4-5 pieces. It is usually worth 300 tuggers apiece. Another popular food - Hushur, resembling our native Cheburek and standing 300-400 Tuggers apiece. Plus, the noodles with pieces of meat and potatoes - either in a dry form, or as a soup. Unfortunately, I did not remember how it is called, costs about 2-2.5 thousand tugres. Actually, these three dishes we are traveling mainly and fed.
There are a lot of interesting dairy dishes, but they, as a rule, are not sold in cavets - we were treated either in yurts, or in the machines. There is a cool cheese, to taste reminiscent of cottage cheese, very tasty creamy oil and a low-alcoholic drink based on milk, resembling koumiss.
The main soft drink is tea with milk. In Ulan-Bator, I did not like it, but then, for the absence of choice, I had to love him. It is usually served without sugar, but slightly salted - however, I didn't feel this salt. In the capital there also add some oil, but there is no such in the province. In general, a very nutritious thing. It costs 100-200 tugresses for a cup, and sometimes it is served at all for free.
As in all other aspects, Ulan Bator and the rest of Mongolia are two big differences. In the capital, the choice of food is great and diverse. There is both cheap tables with mentioned above dishes and prices, and pathoral restaurants with Italian, Japanese and other kitchens for every taste and pocket. We once wandered even in a vegeteric cafe. A cheap dining room can usually be identified by the word "Gazar" on the sign.
As for the products, here too a big difference Between the capital and province. In Ulan Bator, many shops and supermarkets with good choice Products, in other cities - mostly small benches, the choice in which is less than in any Russian rural store. The usual set is soda, vodka, chocolate-cookies and, if lucky, a huge piece of meat in the refrigerator. Even bread falls rarely. The store can be identified by the word "Delhur" on the sign.
Cafes and large shops are found only in cities, so, given the quality of roads and low traffic, it is better to always have a stock of water and eating at least one day.
Language
In Mongolia, a lot of people speak Russian. Once we even brought a graduate of Philfak MSU. From the drivers met most of I knew at least a few words and phrases in Russian, and approximately with each third one could even be fully understood.
But still specifically rely on the fact that you will get out of Russian-speaking Mongols, it is not worth it. Try all the same Mongolian to learn a little, it will greatly facilitate your life in the journey and will help much better know the local life. Unfortunately, I knew only a few more important phrases for the traveler, and the rest complemented by Russian words and gestures. But if I could still say gestures "Is it possible to put a tent" or "Stop here, please", then ask more complex and interesting questions ("How do children nomads go to school?", "What do you try the stove?" And etc.) no longer succeeded.
Mongolian Language Phone
The missing phrases to it (double vowel read as one, but elongated):
Can you go with you? - Hamt Новжа и у уу?
Where are you going? - That hasha Навж bin vi?
We travel in Mongolia - Bid Nar Mongolore Ayalazh Baygaa
The people knows English much worse than Russian - mostly formed young people, metropolitan beggars and workers of the tourist sphere.
Money
1 dollar \u003d 1428 Tugry
1 ruble \u003d 46 Tugry
Change money better immediately in Ulan-Bator for all the journey. In the rest of Mongolia, banks are found in an amount not exceeding the limits of a statistical error.
Like Belarusian rubles, Mongolian tugresses exist exclusively in paper, so the feeling occurs during the journey that you have a lot of money.
Internet and communications
There are several cellular operators from which we recommended Mobicom. On the road cellular bond, naturally, does not work, but almost in all major and small settlements There is a coating.
1-2 Internet cafes are found in most regional centers and in abundance are common in Ulan Bator.
Danger and trouble
Most of all I was frightened by dogs of nomads - they say if you fit into, then approach the yurt early, and they will not attack her dogs. Even recommended to learn the phrase "Noah Horio", which means "hold dogs". Therefore, I expected every nomad to see the evil wolfges, which are a little bit to tear you into pieces. In fact, near Yurts, we saw the meal and encouraged pieces that are not able to scare even steppe gloom. Mongols of dogs do not like themselves and often award them with a kick, passing by. Therefore, all these friends frightened when we tried to stroke them.
Other dangerous animals already from the world wildlife. Travel guides lists steppe wolves and bears living in the desert of scorpions and snakes, ticks living in the grass. Nothing from this came across. The largest wild animals we have seen - lizards size less palm, constantly running under their feet in the Gobi desert, and steppe rodents - or hamsters, whether Surki.
I personally did not come across the crime, but my fellow traveler, which walked in the last day alone on Ulan-Batar, pulled the camera. However, it can happen in any city of the world. And so the Mongols are friendly and non-aggressive, the gopniks are almost never found here. I felt in complete safety throughout the journey at any point of Mongolia - in contrast, by the way, from Russia, where in small district centers is not always pleased to be located.
Climate
Weather in Mongolia changed, with sharp fluctuations in temperatures. In winter, it is very cold (Ulan Bator is considered the very cold capital of the world), in the summer it is usually hot. The summer heat soften the winds, walking along the Mongolian plain, but they also create a different difficulty. A couple of times the blowing so hard that the tent was simply impossible to install - and on the plain it is often impossible to find any shelter from the wind. I can not imagine how terribly here should be in the winter with such a wind.
Route Ulan Bator - ARVYUKHEER

ARVYAHEER

Highway Arwehheer - Bayanhongor

Bayanhongor.

Bayanhongor's track - Altai. Group of Poles traveling on motorcycles

Bu © MBA © GE © R


Northern Gobi Desert

Whether the holiday, whether the lesson of physical education at the local school

Buaugagan

Altai

Altai Track - Hovd

Australian Jeff, who lives in Ulan-Bator for three years. Driving by bus to the parents of his bride into one Mongolian village

Hovd.

National character
Mongols, as I already wrote, the people are very friendly and friendly. Foreigners will always help and prompt, where, like what. The prices for them to overestimate have not yet learned - at least those who work not in the tourist sphere. Russians for the Mongols are generally almost native, many of the older generation recall their studies or work in the Soviet Union. True, such an open and welcoming reception, as in the Caucasus or the Middle East, do not wait - any Russian-speaking Mongol will gladly talk to you, but it is unlikely to call a visit. In general, friendly, but quite even attitude.
Like many other Asian peoples, Mongols are pretty preoccupied, relaxed and leopard. The situation is completely normal when the seller or the administrator in the hotel departed to an hour or another from the workplace and it is necessary to wait for it or look somewhere nearby. They are not particularly hurry, especially since in Mongolia anyway, nothing will happen. Agneshka said that she had several Mongolian students in Ulan Bator, who were constantly late for classes for half an hour and sincerely surprised when they were reproaches them. And indeed, in Mongolia in the steppe, the car can easily arise, it will be necessary to wait half a day the passing car, then refine and eventually come to the destination in the day later. What are the half an hour of late. In a word, "there are nowhere to rush, they have eternity ahead."
At the same time, the Mongols have a very developed mutual assistance. If you broke the car, the first passing car stops and his driver offers help. Often he can stay with you for a few hours, helping to start an old UAZ or replace the springs from the truck. However, they say in remote regions of Russia, such as Yakutia, Kamchatka or Chukotka, everything is the same.
From the whole Mongolian people, Mongolian children produce a particularly pleasant impression. They are very lively and immediate, and the most colorful objects for photography are even more than old men or all-tree riders on the horses. They are clearly not tormented by some punishments and prohibitions, but they do not indulge in anything - yes, there is nothing particularly walked. Instead of plastic toys, they have a whole flock of goats or sheep, instead of a bike or rollers - horses, in which many ride, it seems, from six or seven years old, and instead of dirty streets and convinces - green plains. There are no urban temptations and entertainment here, so they are sincerely glad to any chocolate chip, which will bring a foreigner from the city. My fellow traveler liked the Mongolian children so much that she even wanted to have one such. True, it is afraid that her boyfriend from Kiev will not understand this - all the same few men such tolerant as the hero of the film "Styles".
Lifestyle
Ulan Bator is the only real city in Mongolia. In terms of the level of availability and development of infrastructure, he resembles a large Russian regional center. There are supermarkets, cinemas, restaurants, internet cafes, public transport - All you need for life. The rest of the country is a big nomadic camp. Even in regional centers, a significant part of the population lives in a nomadic - in the center there may be several Soviet buildings in two or three floors, and surrounds it all private sector from wooden houses and yurts. But, of course, the real Mongolia begins outside the cities.
In the steppe yurts come across every few kilometers, in the desert - every 10-20 kilometers. Sometimes the yurt stands separately, sometimes several such dwellings form a kind of mini-sealer. I expected that the interior of the yurt would be quite ascetic, almost like in a hiking tent, but in fact they are usually always well furnished and remindes the insides of the Russian hut or even a modest urban apartment. There are several beds, a wardrobe, a table, a chest of drawers, on which there are photos of distant relatives, TV (sometimes even with a DVD player). In the center there is a stove-bourgear, the long tube of which is directed into a round hole in the middle of the roof.
The only occupation of people living here is animal husbandry. Next to the yurt is driven to the land of Konovyaz, to which several horses are tied, goats or sheep are crowded (and more often without it), the grass and cow are erupted alongside, and the desert roam and chew rigid camel shrubs. These animals are at the same time all agriculture, food and textile industry, and often transport.
Mongols are practically engaged in agriculture. You can drive the whole country and not to see a single field. Only in the vicinity of the city of Ulang we saw a kind of vegetable gardens Yes, the Russian border was brought to us, who said that she was going on some farm. In the rest of the places, the Mongols do not grow anything and all their huge plains are used exclusively under the pastures. They say that they still consider sinful to dig and do something from the ground.
National costumes are large robes of dense tissue, usually gray. I never put it on, but judging by the appearance, such a robe protects well from the penetrating Mongolian wind. And also, I apologize for intimate details, such a robe helps Mongols to ignite need in the steppe: here it is usually impossible to find any shelter, so you can move a little from other people, get up or sit back with your back, closing a bathrobe, and make your business, no one when This is not shocking.
Religion
As in any other communist country, in the 90s, a religious revival began in Mongolia. Began to restore the old and build new monasteries, create religious educational institutions. Buddhist monastery Or the temple became the same indispensable attribute of the Mongolian city as the Orthodox Temple - Russian. In the monasteries you can see young monks, and if you're lucky, getting to the religious service, when they sit at the table and read the mantras or in Tibetan, or on Sanskrit - fascinating spectacle.
However, special religiosity at Mongol-laity is not noticeable. Only in one yurt I saw something like a small altar, and in cars I never met any religious attributes. So, if you do not travel to cities and not to look for Buddhist temples there, in general, you will not define any of the religion the Mongols adhere to. True, as in neighboring Buryatia, the relics of shamanism have been preserved here: along the roads are "obo" - piles of stones and pillars with blue rags attached to them. But in contrast to the same Buryatia, drivers next to them stop and do not show any respect.
Entertainment
Of all the Mongolian culture, the traveler can best meet music. Mongols love to sing very very much, and on the road can often be observed such a picture - the driver begins to sing a melodic and sad song, and his partner sings to him as far as possible. Or the old woman drags the song, and the entire bus is picked up together. If no one sings, the driver puts the cassette (by the way, almost never seen in CD-magnetic machines - only cassettniki) with Mongolian folk or modern popular songs and listens to her, looking at the road leaving for the horizon. Quite often, the Mongols, including those who do not know a word in Russian, listen to Russian music. Several times we heard that Valery, then Dima Bilan, then the song "Million Scarlet Roses" performed by the Mongolian singer, singing in Russian with a funny accent.
Except to sing, people still love to drink. Moreover, at first glance, it seems that even more than in Russia. For the month of traveling in Eastern Siberia, I was offered to drink vodka once, and in two weeks in Mongolia - five times. However, it is explained by the fact that in Mongolia, except for the driver, there are always many passengers in the car, and just they so that it should be more fun, drink half a letter, and the driver is limited to tea with milk. In Russia, drivers, mostly go alone - there will not be much eating here.
Lyrical conclusion
What I did not understand after the trip - why the eight hundred years ago, Mongols needed to leave their cozy nobra and native steppes and to conquer polim. After all, they were not going to breed the cattle and put yurts on the conquered lands, so unlike Mongolia - all these Chinese rice fields, the ancient cities of Central Asia, the peaks of the Caucasus, the Iranian deserts and Russian forests. And it is impossible to learn in these peaceful and friendly people of those evil and cruel conquerors who passed with fire and a sword as well as adriatic coast. Maybe the whole thing in a strong person who can collect and lead people behind themselves - I do not know.
But Mongolia makes it possible to understand another thing: that our whole civilization, all that humanity has come up with the last few thousand years - this is, in essence, pleasant, but not so necessary excesses. In this country, people almost do not use them, and those that use it seems to be not so needed. Tens of thousands of Mongols cost without sewage, gas and microwave ovens, washing machine, computer, telephone, car and completely not concerned. And the omnipotent force of electricity uses, it seems, only for watching TV. Do not be it - just asked by the travelers, which is new happening in the world. And having learned about our entire progress, the Internet, flights to space, nuclear energy, nanotechnology and laser surgery, they would have nodded disapprovingly - why do something invent something, if for a good life only yurt, fifty goats, dozen horses and endless green plain .
Route Hovd - Ulaang

Group of French and Swiss on jeep

For a week in Mongolia, I could not understand what she was: outside the "sixteenth republic of the former USSR", and inside - Virgin Asia, or vice versa: outside - Virgin Asia, and inside - "Sixteenth Republic"? The main emotion of the traveler in Mongolia is the removal of the brain, and at every step. The main emotion of Mongolia itself, her national motto is "all do not care!" Well, the Mongolian Altai, the Cobdo River Valley in the aimaks Bayan-Ulgiy and Hovd is the furthest from the capital and the most atypical corner of Mongolia. In the first part, I will tell about the road there from Russia and the local, more urban, specifics; On the second part, I will leave a story about the life of nomads. But for all Mongolia, these impressions are typical, or only for its Western corner - so far I do not assume.

There is still an aircraft, but it is completely different prices: from Uligi to the capital by the bus 80 thousand tugres (about 2000 rubles), and the aircraft is 350 thousand. Airplanes are beautiful here, all that flew over us - were turbopovintov, such as this Fokker 50.

Specific transport (besides airplanes, of course) gives rise to a specific attitude towards the toilet. On the tracks there are not even the calm rustic sorts, hide in the steppe there is nowhere, so the sanitary stop looks like this: half the bus goes out, it is built in a rank and begins to cope. Or bleak - judging by two trips to dear Ulgiy-Hovd, the critical number of local residents have a weak vestibular, refusing to the passes. It is possible to sit down in a large stone, but this is if it is. Women in this sense are not much more shy men, so Mongolian buses can be in every way advise the adepts of urinophilia. Wheel people (like us with Olya) will have to be morally ready. Let's say in the ulgie a sorter without a door facing the street:

The appearance of its cities of Mongolia does seem to be the "Sixteenth Republic". The same five-story buildings, low-rise Stalinings and even wooden barracks, the same garages, rusty children's playgrounds and garbage tanks, and of course balconies, glazed who in what is much:

Familiar landscapes, if I saw, or:

In some places there are something other - barracks with extraordinarily frequent windows and square in the section of the pipe of the yard boilers cause me a association with China's times of Mao Zedong, which I have never seen.

In general, the Mongolian city looks more launched and uncomfortable than even in Kyrgyzstan or in the Russian north. In the same Khovde, once laid a paving and tile, lay lanterns and shops, but without daily care, all this was covered with garbage and dust. A new buildings are particularly contrasting - nowhere in the former USSR there are no such close yards without a single bladeing:

Mongolian entrances are quite post-Soviet - that is, the shaft, written and the pictured ads. But right to pay attention to a small detail - from the threshold, the staircase does not only up, but down: in the basements of new buildings here are also apartments!

The centers of Mongolian cities come across very non-free Stalinkins, mainly administrations, hotels and houses of culture:

Twice - in Ulgie and Khovde - we came across a stone watch. At first we joked that it was a very visual expression of how Mongolians refer to time. But after seeing the watch the second time, we realized that the arrows on them in the same exact position. What time is it captured on them? Revolution, proclamation of independence, some victory?

But the main "chip" of the Mongolian cities is that in them from the most unexpected places suddenly literally jump out yurts:

Here I will say Yurt on the backyards of college - maybe in it they live repairing workers from somewhere from the steppe?

In Khovde on the outskirts there is a whole yurt city. This is essentially the workers of the slums - the people come to the city, and does not build Halupa from Kyzyak and stick, but simply installs the yurt and lives in it. Others are so complaining that they put fences around the yurt, cutting sites, but I think most of the inhabitants of Yurtograds come to the city to work on season:

Even in the courtyards of rich homes, Yurt can stand, at least performing the role of summer kitchen, veranda or living room. This is already a Ulgiy - Yurthedograd there is no, but in the yards of YUT, it is unlikely not more, and notice that they are another design - in the Hovde of Yurts Mongolian (GER), and here - Turkic (Kazakh-UY):

Mongolian cities are a very bright monument of what is called "false urbanization". Here in the khovde on the lawn central Square Cow grabs:

42. Photographed Olya.

And one of the "chips" ulgy - regular scotoproogon through the city:

Cattle is far from the only animal, notable in Mongolian cities. I watched the same thing in Kosh Agach, that is, it apparently general feature For the tired - here are the core instead of Crow:

Sit on wires, trees, roofs:

Round over the garbagers:

47. Photo Ol.

They dive into the courtyards, hunting on pigeons, puppies, kittens or meat for the dog, while she sleeps in a cone:

48. Photo Ol.

So it is no wonder that the turbulent turbulents hang on the power lines:

Mongolian is beautiful, although where we were, it is presented in the main inscription and pop. I think, "a clear letter" came to him much more than Cyrillic: a solid "hole bu shlitur". But the meaning of the inscriptions in general is clear: "Come, go awesome!", "Everything is very difficult there, before doing something - think" and "from the fire there will be Tamhi Tatha Garghayg!".

Contingent in Mongolia if different from Central Asia, Kazakhstan or Altai, then not much: there are here and sloppy selyus, and the pretty stylish youth. Gopniks I do not remember here, and the police are friendly and is not inclined to extortion - there are never scenes like Central Asian, there have never been in Mongolia. They say it is easy to run into drunk, but we didn't have such experience, and with other people's words, drunk to tourists are not aggressive and in the worst case they will be climbed to fight. Again, as I understood from other people's notes, much worse than with aggression, things are doing with theft - things are better not to leave without supervision even on the borders.

Another unusual property of Mongolia is perhaps the easiest and painless transition to democracy in history. Until 1911, she was China's province, in 1921-90 - quite a totalitarian socialist country, and in the 1990s he took it a democratic - without sort and pogroms, without a "father of the nation" with an iron order, without political hysteria. Since 2017, the country has already had the fifth president, the Mongolian folk (previously popular-revolutionary) and the democratic party regularly replace each other in elections. Lenin in Ulan-Bator demolished only in 2012, but in Khovda at one of the stores (!) Hovid the Order of the Sukh-Bator - apparently, there are socialist nostalgia here:

But the red star peacefully gets around with a swastika. Mongolia sent to the aid of the USSR caravans with warm clothing and meat, tens of thousands of cameljores from Hovd to Biysk. Maybe there were Mongol volunteers on the front, but in principle, the Mongola was not fought with fascism. An important difference between Mongolia from the former USSR - there is no press of the Great Patriotic War. Therefore, for Mongols, the swastika is just a sun:

Before the trip, I was confident that Mongolia turned into a protectorate of China. But I would say, chitized is hardly more than more. Tajiks from the mention of China are flashing that Ukrainians with the word "Europe", but from the Mongols before the consecutive long-time fear, for which it is possible to contact Russia. They say, closer to Ulan-Bataror, Chinese influence is more noticeable, but Bayan-Ulgiy and Hovd definitely look north:

The ownership of the Russian language here I would estimate approximately the level of the most unbredded places of the former USSR type of South Tajikistan or the rural depth of Estonia. Each second here in Russian can link a few words, and almost in any crowded place there will be at least one person who speaks Russian almost freely. And, - heard about it from different people- Mongols are very conscientious in study, so if the Mongolec says in Russian - it is worthy. In Russian, it is possible to explain here, and in any case, at times easier than in English. Knowledge of English, as it seemed to me, correlates with age (the youth peculiar to me), but the knowledge of Russian in my opinion does not correlate with anything - among young people and residents of Yurt and among the older generation and citizens all three cases came across equal proportions. In general, the grip of between two great powers here is very noticeable. For example, once we met a woman who has a daughter in Beijing, and Son - in Tomsk.

A strange socket on different plugs in the Hovd Hotel is a visual testimony of China's proximity with his cheap lots of the world. Maybe therefore Mongolia and to the Anglo-Saxon world seems closer than post-Soviet countries, with the exception of the Baltic States.

Another property of Mongolia is almost nothing in it. In fact, everything comes down to mines and animal husbandry, but ore will not trade in stores. According to statistics, 2/3 of imports in Mongolia goes from China, 1/3 of Russia, but in Grocery stores Ulgy and Hoved, the proportion looks rather reverse. The geography of goods in the country, not burdened support for the domestic manufacturer, impressive - on the shelves and showcases Callaidoscope are replaced by Russia, China, Kazakhstan, Ukraine, Korea, Germany, Poland, Israel, Japan ... I remember how before leaving we bought 5 chocolate - and all of different countries. But many products in Mongolia are simply no, because they are not interested in local - for example, we have not seen cheese in stores.

Actually, Mongolian products are few, but all that we came across - excellent. For example, an incredibly tasty and very natural fruit water "Goo":

Well, that the Mongolian stew is the best in the world, for many travelers it is not a secret:

And you probably ask - where is Genghis Khan? So here - no. For a week in two Western aimaks, we did not see an unrealistic monument to the shochar of the universe.

Mongolia is a country that can really surprise. Here, for comparison, the impressions of the same year about Central Mongolia from Denis - See Table of Contents!
Mongolian Altai - Will posts!
Land Cobdo. The first impressions of Mongolia.
Land Cobdo. About nomadic Kazakhs.
Ulgiy. The capital of Mongolian Kazakhstan.
Ulgiy Hovd. Mongolian road.
HOVD (COBO). Oldest city Mongolia.
Manhan. Land of Zakhchins and Petroglyphs of the Stone Age.
Mongolian Altai. Road to Hurgan-Nur.
Mongolian Altai. Cobdin lakes.
Mongolian Altai. Back through Cengel.
Nealatai Kazakhstan - See Table of Contents!
Steppe Altai - see Table of Contents!

Good day. I live in Khakassia, to the border with Mongolia 600 km, to the nearest city of 720. Therefore, we are on may holidays They rushed literally for a week. We got no problem. The bandwidth of Handagite - Megacraft, everything is culturally and polite. Riding gathered to the city of Ulang - 28 thousand people.
Hotel 1500 day - Room on Troy! Food is inexpensive, there are many unfamiliar dishes. A lot of sea buckthorn juice, also a novelty, we have no. The meat is all rigid, but cheap, it is better to buy buds in Tsayny, by the way, you quickly get used to Tsay, especially in the cafes where it is done normal. Were on Lake Jarghe Nuur, and at UBR-Nuur, huge lakes, on the shores of Safari - a bunch of non-epoigaled game, a lot of yaks, geese, herp, etc. There was a Russian guide, well, it is better to know the foundations of English language And to have a Russian Mongolian phrasebook. Walked around the city at night, very safely, everyone greets, invite you to visit, a bunch of smiles. In general, very positively rolled, if there are questions I will answer with pleasure.

Sometime in the Ulangome there was a small military unit of the Soviet group of troops. The part was small, since the direction was not "tanning". I will say that in that area the service of officers was like in the resort: hunting, fishing. The management of the army is far away - so far you can hover several times. And resting there is really one pleasure. Of course, for the 20th years, when Soviet experts left the MNR, many have subsided. But at one time, even in such small settlements in Russian talked to 50% of the population. Even if you do not have a guide, you can always find local residentwho will gladly tell and show reserved places. Well, in the Ulanna, the representative office of the Republic of Tyva was opened. Therefore, even if there are problems, then you can decide everything through them. For lovers of relaxing in nature - a wonderful place. : hlopaet:

In 2007, we also went from Khakassia to Mongolia. Although the relationship (at the state level) was none, but the Mongols greatly remember the kindness and assistance of the USSR for the formation of their state. We drove out and the Ulang, were also on the lakes. Spruce Guses, Herkel, Yakov and Conin. By the way, most of the inhabitants (middle age) are communicated to Russian, but they understand at all, 100 percent. Recommended their attitude to the USSR, and to us (formerly countertilizer) - warm, welcoming, almost native. They did not speak about Russia at all, but called our country in the old age - the Soviet Union.
No poverty, or especially poverty, we have not seen. This is a normal lifestyle of the Mongolian people. If the family is settled, then they live in the house, an apartment as ordinary rural people in any country. If the family cares, has its livestock, pasteure, then the lifestyle, respectively, nomadic. Hence, national accommodation, clothing, food ... Therefore, you should not be afraid to go to Mongolia on Safari. Just need to decide for what purpose, and where can I go to Mongolia, in the steppe, or in the city-village?

Under the severity of the square

One of the Paris lectures organized by the international exhibition of surrealism, almost turned around the tragedies for the Salvador invited to her. According to the artist, the lecture needed some revitalization and clarity, so he dodged into a skate. With his booty and, at the same time, heavy, outfit, the artist, as he himself admitted to journalists, wanted to symbolically, to portray full creative immersion. It all started quite traditionally, an extravagant artist was photographed with Ruperton Briton Lee and his wife Diana. But when Dali tried to remove the helmet, it turned out that he was jammed: the air in the scaffle ended, and the artist began to choke. If the skate was not broken, then this touch could cost an eccentric life, and nothing suspects would applaud, enjoying the dramatic effect.

Bike bike

On December 7, 1959, a presentation of a bicycle (Ovocypedee) took place in Paris: the devices that Salvador came up with and embodied Lapare engineer. Rivet - transparent ball with fixed seats for one person. This "transport" has become one of the devices that gave successfully used to shock the public with its appearance.

Shocking showcase

Stay was given in America became the most scandalous time in his life. Back in 1939, the artist agreed to place a showcase of the Bonuita Teller's store on the fifth Avenue and, I must say, this decision made it known as never. On the mannequins of the beginning of the twentieth century, used in the composition, instead of artificial wigs there were real hair cut off from the corp. In addition, the composition consisted of a black satin bathroom, a bath lojani and a canopy from buffalo head, in whose teeth was a bloody dove. Such a showcase could not remain unnoticed for residents of New York. The interest of the public was so great that in the sidewalks of this street it was impossible to pass. The city administration, fearing the riots, decided to dismantle the composition Dali. However, the artist's reaction was unexpected. Having angry, he turned the satin bath, crashed it a mirror showcase of the store, and came out of there to the street, where the police arrested him.

"Rainy taxi"

Arriving the exhibition in Paris in 1938, Dali, he tried to warm the interest of the public with all their might. Shortly before the discovery, he stated that it would be one of the most amazing events of the first half of the twentieth century. So it came out. Before entering the building of the exhibition visitors, an extravagant surprise was waiting - "rainy taxi". The maestro created a car, inside which it rained, the floor was eliminated by Ivy, and on a mannequin, sitting in the back seat, crawled a hundred burgundy snails. To date, a peculiar "taxi", a finalized and complemented by the artist, can see all visitors to the Museum-Museum in Figuene.

"Cadillac" instead of bull

On August 12, 1971, a festival was organized in the city of Figueras in the city of Figueras. The discovery began with the battleship of the bulls and the procession created in the style of his beloved artist Dali - Goya. The only stot knocking out of the overall picture was the open "Cadillac" Salvador. Maestro welcomed with his hand to all the gathered and proved that he would not lose even against the background of Spanish bulls, it would be able to surprise. By the way, "Cadillac" was given in a special line "Caddy", consisting of only five cars. Holders of this limited series were the most famous or shockful personalities of the last century: one belonged to President Roosevelt, the second - Clark Gablo, the third was in Al Capon, who came to the freedom, the fourth became the property of the couple Gala and Salvador Dali, the name of the owner of the fifth car still unknown. Notice, a good acquisition, given that Dali used his "Cadillac" only for the appearance in public.

"Andalusian dog"

In 1929, the premiere of the film "Andalusian Dog" took place in Paris, which became the result of the collaboration of Salvador Dali and Louis Bunuel. Punching and shocking scenes of the picture (cutting the blade of the eyeball, ants, crazy hands, etc.) made it, perhaps, the most famous surreal work of two creators. The script was written in just two weeks and was based on Dali and Bunuel dreams. "Andalusian dog", contrary to the expectations of the directors, was enthusiastic adopted by the public. Gloomy fame film added the tragic death of leading actors painting. Pierre Batcheff died from overdose of the drug "Veronal" on April 13, 1932 in the Paris Hotel, and Simon Marieil made a self-immolation on Périgueux Square in Dordon. Later, Dali used a film as a source of inspiration for the next rapid act. He again won the public, appearing in front of the telecons in the coffin, put on the money and sising ants, with the egg shell on the face.

Mongolia with mushrooms

In his life, Dali himself completely completed the work only over one film, "impressions of the uppermost Mongolia", released on the screens in 1975. In Ribe, who did not receive special recognition of the public, he told the story of an expedition, which went to search for huge hallucinogenic fungi. The video series "impressions about the upper Mongolia" is large part based on increased microscopic stains of uric acid on the brass strip. "Author" of these stains was given. For several weeks, he "drew" them on a piece of brass.

"Ball of dreams"

On January 18, 1935, Joella Levi and Caris Crosby are organized in honor of the departure Dali and Gang from New York organize the "Ball of Dreams". On the costume Ball, the artist appeared in the image of the windows of his wife's bra, as a headquarter, he used lobster, and behind his black wings in white gloves gave the black wings. Gala defiled in the Red Skirt from Celofan, in a green bodice and with a celluloid baby as a headdress. In his "mystery life," he would later write that the image of a "charming corpse", which chose his companion, attracted even more attention than the costumes of Eve, bloody nightgowns and English pins, stuck in the skin of the other ladies. From this rapid appearance of a married couple on the ball journalists blown a real scandal. The fact is that at that time the kidney of the Lindberg family was widely discussed in the press, and one of the journalists of the Paris newspaper wrote that he was not just a doll on the head, but the image of the kidnapped baby. The artist himself rejected a similar "version" of the outfit.

Love on Troykh

At the end of 1965, El Salvador Dali meets the model Amanda Lir already known at that time, which becomes his mistress. The appearance of the favorite was not a joke withdrew the legitimate wife of the artist, however, the wayward gala gradually gets used to an unusual love triangle. They often walk together, dinner in restaurants and attend receptions. Of course, such public ease only disbanded reporters who did not miss the top three out of sight. Every interview of that period did not work out without questions about the personal life of the artist, which he answered with his inherent journey. However, one of the maestro's outcomes seriously angry Amanda. In an interview with the Minut newspaper, Dali said that his girlfriend is a former boy Alain TEP and thus strengthened the already existing rumors about the transcemption of the model that arose due to the low voice timbre of the model.

Jacket - Aphrodisiac

The jacket, also known as Aphrodisiac Dinner Jacket, Salvador Dali invented in 1936. To the tuxedo on thin straws were suspended 83 cups with mint liqueur and dead flies, and instead of a manica, the artist used a bra. The original "jacket - aphrodisiac" has been preserved only in photographs for which it periodically recreates for special exhibitions. Later on one of the techniques, Dali appeared in a jacket resembling a sample of 1936. However, this time the cups with a liqueur were replaced with numbered crystal glasses. A photograph on which Maestro is captured in this strange outfit, was called the Air Force TV channel with one of the symbols of the twentieth century.