Bay of Providence - an example, as Russia loses Chukotka. Photo

  • 23.09.2019

Sometimes I miss communication, I just want to talk to someone. There are very few people in Chukotka. You can go on a motorcycle all day and do not meet anyone. I, in principle, suits me, I'm used to traveling alone. Sometimes in a few days the trips do not pronounce a word, but I don't like to talk with me.

In Chukotka, I live from two years old, you can say, all my life, and born in the Krasnoyarsk Territory, on the Taimyr Peninsula. It is too Far North. In general, all my life I live in the Arctic. Perhaps, so my place of residence seems to me perfect. For example, when I go on vacation, in big cities I feel uncomfortable from all this fuss around. I want to return home faster to Chukotka.

There are almost no innocent at home. Tourists are, of course, but mostly foreigners on cruise ships come: they roam crowds around the village for several hours and go further. An ordinary tourist, I think very problematic to get into the territory of Chukotka. First, it is borderzone, and secondly - very expensive. The plane is not the cheapest type of transport. They fly here from Anadyr: once a month in winter and once a week - in the summer.

My main passion is a motorcycle trip. I love to climb the mountains, walk alone along the tundra and to be in abandoned, the dead towns that we have enough since the time of the "iron curtain". On our side of the bay is the village of Providence, and on the opposite - Uliki, the dead and abandoned military town. I am often there, I just go to the empty streets, I look at the gaping, broken windows of buildings.

This autumn examined the local school, the building is in a completely depressing condition, even though the horror movie takes off: there is a broken glass, water drips from the ceiling, the wind walks along the corridors. I am familiar with some graduates of this school, these are already adults, sometimes they come to their school, but can not even get together in their own class. They are sitting in the yard, jested kebabs and complain that the meeting of graduates now have to spend on the street, since only walls remained from their native school.

I used to be afraid to wander around the abandoned buildings, and now I feel fear. It seems that there is something alive in these houses, so I completely stopped entering the dark premises: basements, long corridors and rooms without windows. But I make me on these houses, I love to wander to places that have no future: to be in old hunting, fishing houses.

I am always interested in the journey suddenly find the old house of geologists in Tundra. I love to read the inscriptions on the walls. For example: "Andrey Smirnov. Chukotka. Summer 1973. Questions immediately arise in my head: "Who was this Andrei? What did he do in Chukotka in 1973? How did his further fate come around, where is he now?" Etc. It all worries and interests me crazy.

"The active construction of the village began in 1937. Here arrived a caravan of the courts of the enterprise "Providstroy". First of all, it was necessary to build a port. At the end of 1945, the Kamchatka Obc WCP (b) adopted a decree on the creation of a providence village in the Chukchi district. The village continued to develop rapidly, military units were replied here. The first public building, dining room, was built only in 1947.

From the memories of Lyudmila Adiatullina, Perm:

- My Father, Borodin Vasily Andreevich, reached Prague during the war years. Then his part was loaded into the echelons and sent them all over Russia Far East In the bay of providence, where he served for another five years.

It was very difficult, two years later they lived in six-square tents, among the rocky stone sills. Nara was made of stones, topped with deer moss. Four slept, and the fifth top of the bourgeois. In the morning, sometimes the hair came to the tent. Snow entered this tent town, people fastened each other, made meatballs, officer houses, defensive structures and even roads.

For the second year, little fuel was delivered, and in order not to freeze, the military wanted dwarf birches, died them with the root; Collars bricks and soaked stones in barrels with kerosene. This was already treated stoves. It is good that Chukchi suggested that not far from the location of the part there were coal mines developed by the Americans. When they were asked to leave from there in 1925, they blew up everything and fell asleep. The soldiers rejected these mines to the primitive way, we wore coal for 30 km in backpacks, skiing. And nevertheless survived.

Then they went on dogs and deer, rented them from Chukchi. Snow sawed with saws, drove to sleigh and made water from it. Only on the third year began to build soldier barracks from wooden bars. The barracks were big on the division. There were no builders among the soldiers, but the life of everything taught. In 1950, in September, all demobilized. Seven years they were not at home: two years - in war and five years - in Chukotka. "

The village of Providence itself is the usual northern port of the town with monuments of the destruction of the nineties, bad roads and good, responsive people. Some come here to simply earn a "northern" pension and dump. The beauty of the north they do not understand, it is for visits - cold, snow and stones. Someone, on the contrary, crazy from the mountains, northern Syania, whales, and other romance. I am just to such people.

All the most interesting is outside our village: the base of marine hunters, whale cemetery, the remains of military facilities, ancient parking of Eskimos, hot underground sources. In the summer, I leave for the ocean on a motorcycle constantly, I love to walk everywhere, I climb on the hills, I go to the uncharted places.

And on which animals can be stumbled upon! I saw: whales, seals, wolves, brown and white bears, fox, fox, wolverine, hare, eagle, ermine, lemming and a bunch of various birds. Bear and wolves are dangerous for a person. Rifle, I think, of course, not an extra piece in the tundra, and just in wildlifeBut it happened that I did all my life without him. Maybe lucky, just if I stumbled on the bears, it was always on transport, on a snowmobile or a motorcycle. But if you travel on foot, then it is better to take a gun or at least a missile: some kind of petardes to scare away predators.

Once I came across the wreckage of the aircraft. I rode somehow along the shore of the lake and saw something slope of the hill. She climbed - it turned out that this is the plane "Li-2". He crashed here in the seventies. At the bottom I saw a memorable plate and a sign. There are still many fragments of aircraft can be found on the territory of military facilities. All this remains since the time of the Soviet army.

Mobile phone here catches. Internet, truth, dear and very slow. Therefore, everyone is sitting in the chat rooms "Welder". Megabyte mobile traffic is worth nine rubles.

What kind of work is somehow there. Power station, boiler room, border services, police, seaport and airport.

Shops here are fifteen pieces. They are very expensive in them, because the goods are brought by ships. What they abandoned the aircraft is even more expensive. Fruits and vegetables can cost 800-1000 rubles per kilogram, and those that have been cheaper from the ships are cheaper than two times. Things are basically Chinese from Vladivostok. I don't buy them here at all, I order everything through online stores or buy on the mainland. So many do.

For children, there is a garden, school, ski section, sports complex. In general, you can live. Lovers of the North Providence will have to do.

: Coordinates:  /  (G) (O) (I)64.403056 , -173.348056 64 ° 24'11 "p. sh. 173 ° 20'53 "s. d. /  64.403056 ° C. sh. 173.348056 ° C. d. (G) (O) (I) (T)

Bay Providence - Bay in Anadyr Gulf Bering Sea, Southeast coast of the Chukotka Peninsula.

Geography

The entrance to the Bay of Providence is limited to Cape Bald Head in the East and Cape of Leskovsky in the West. Cape Bald head is located at a distance of 11 km to the west-north-west of Cape Chukotka. Width of the Bay of Providence is about 8 km at the beginning. Length - 34 km (measured along the midline). The width of the bay in part below the Emma Harbor is about 4 km, and above Emma Harbor is about 2.5 km. In its lower part, the bay goes to about the northeast, turning then in its northern part (known as Hed Hed) bends north and has about 2 km wide. Cool shores and hills (mountains) bays are in a height of about 600-800 meters (on average). In the bay semi-sufficient tides high up to 1 meter. From May to October, completely or partially free from ice. At the entrance to the bay, the depth is about 35 m (USCGS 1928). The maximum depth is about 150 meters. Recently, there are data on the reduction of depth at the inlet to 18-20 meters (USCS 2000).

Inside the bay of Providence is several smaller bays: the Komsomol Bay (Emma Harbor), Slavyanka Bay, Hed Bay, rider and cache bays.

The bay of the Komsomol Bay (Harbor Emma) is located 14 km from the mouth of the bay of providence in its eastern part and has dimensions of 1.5 × 6 km with depths from 11 to 27 m. On its shores are villagers of PGT Providence and Uliki, as well as airport " Bay of Providence. " The entrance to the bay is limited by the capes of Puzin and Likhachev.

The Slavyanka Bay is an anchor parking for a spanking swimmer, which is a natural waveness. It is located 8 km from the mouth of the providence bay. The tip of the swimmer Kosy is called Cape Gaidamak.

US COAST SURVEY. Describes the entire upper part of the bay, like a rider bay. Asiatic Pilot. In 1909, the Bay of Vladimir and Cash, separated by Cape Popov, and notes that these bays shallow water.

Local population

On the spit, the swimmer was located the Eskimo village.

US Coast Survey describes the Riracle village at the base of the braid, and, since 1928, it describes the Uredolk village on south Bank Harbor Emma. In the Soviet era, the village, located near the Spit, was damaged by landslides and the inhabitants were resettled in the port of Providence (Providence).

On the settlement of Chukchi Ponchchu Poniver reported in 1881, Aurel Krause, but in 1898 it is no longer mentioned by Waldemar Bogoraz. There were other settlements on the coast. Chukotka village Avan lay to the east of the bay, between the sea and freshwater lake Estimated (from the English "East-Head"; in English-language literature the name "Lake Moore" is also found.

They were evacuated in 1941 to free the place for coastal defense batteries. According to another source in the 1950s, they were still at the entrance to the bay.

History

Opened by the Russian expedition of Kurbat Ivanov in 1660. After that, another 200 years of the bay remained unnamed. In 1848-1849, the British ship "Pilover" turned in the bay under the command of Tomas Mura. Coming out of Plymouth in January 1848, the ship cruised on Bering Sea in search of the lost expedition of Franklin. On October 17, 1848, the vessel Mura threw his anchor in a safe harbor. In honor of the first successful wintering in the area of \u200b\u200bthe Bering Sea, he gave the name of the Bay - Providence (Providence).

In 1866-1867 in the bay overloid Western Union Telegraph Expedition.

The bay was popular Moz Meetings, wintering and fishery for the kitoboes and merchants in the XIX and early XX century.

In 1875, Russian Clipper "Gaidamak" under the command of Sergey Tyrtova threw anchor in the bay of providence. Tyrtes, directed to ensure the state monopoly on coastal trade, distributed printed leaflets among the local Chukchi in the name of foreign merchants. Then he headed to the north to the Gulf of Lavrentia, where the American merchant ship "Timander" was intercepted, engaged in the exchange of locals of the walrus on alcohol.

In 1876, with the same task in these seas, the Captain Novosilskiy was sent at the Horseman's clipper. The rider has become anchored in the bay of providence on July 5, 1876, performed the hydrographic shooting of the bay, and then headed north, passed the Bering Strait, turned to the West, reaching the Cape Schmidt (then Cape Northern, or Cape North Cape in English Sources) and safely returned to back . The rider did not meet a single trading boat, but found evidence of the last and signs of trafficking in local residents with the Americans (including the heaven of whiskey barrel).

In 1881, the Russian clip of "arrows" threw anchor in the bay of providence. "Arrows", except for surveys and border control, had a task of saving the crews of two missing American whale courts. However, soon the crew of the American schooner Handy He told Russian that one of the missing boats was sank with all the crew, and the second safely reached San Francisco. Instead, the "shooter" was discovered and equipped with the German scientific expedition of Aurel Krause. In the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the clip of "arrows" met with the American vessel "USS Rogers". Both ships went to the north to Bering Strait, but soon divided. The "arrows" reached the cape of Dezhneva (then Cape East) and turned back while Rogers reached the Island of Wrangel.

The history of the Chelyuskin Epopea and the development of the Northern Sea Route showed the need for construction in the bay sea Port.. In February 1937, the head of the main northern sea route Otto Yulievich Schmit approved the project construction project. And in the summer of 1940, the vessels were already unloaded at the wall of the first berth. With the creation of the seaport in the providence, settlements of Urmetiki (Pilover) are developing intensively.


Wikimedia Foundation. 2010.

I, honestly, even doubted whether to upload it. But there are pictures, maybe someone will seem interesting.
36 photo + slightly text.

What is this village, and where did he come from there? That's what Vicky says.
After opening in 1660, the bay of providence of the Russian expedition of Kurbat Ivanov here regularly carried out fishery and wintering of whaling and commercial ships. At the beginning of the twentieth century, with the beginning of the development of the Northern Sea Route, a coal warehouse was organized on the coast of the bay to replenish the fuel reserves of ships heading to the Arctic, and by 1934 the first buildings of the future sea port appeared here, which became a city-forming for the village of Providence.

In 1937, an active construction of the port and the village began with the arrival of the caravan of ships with construction materials, and at the end of 1945, the Kamchatka Obc WCP (b) adopted a decree on creating "in the Chukchi district of the working village of Providence at the base social Point Glavsevmorthuti in Providence Bay. "

On May 10, 1946, the Decree of the Presidium of the Supreme Council of the RSFSR on the formation of the village of Providence, which is considered the official date of the foundation of the settlement.

The village continued to get upset quickly, it was facilitated by the redeployment of military units here. In 1947, the first public building was built - the dining room.


And the wiki says to us that ..
Until the late 1980s, about 6,000 people lived in the village, but in the 1990s, in connection with the massive relocation of residents on the mainland, an administrative association of two villages occurred - Uliki and Providence. The initiator of such enlarges was the then Governor Roman Abramovich.
NDA, well, I'll show you too.


We were also there we were not behind the pictures, but at work. Promper in bay, topographic and geodesic work. So normal, tourist photos are not at all. It was just once.


The village itself also rarely walked. In the store if only, but they have prices .. well, in a bath on Wednesdays and Sundays.


Village, if that, too, serve. The most interesting thing is that they have it there is a museum. The museum is small, but there are people there who love him, it can be seen immediately. Naturally, the prices for souvenirs in dollars, as Alaska is very close, and often the cruises of American.


Yes, both Russians and Chukchi and Evenks live there .. But this is not singe, all local representatives of small nations Spirped alcoholics for the most part. Neither deer, nor clothes of national, nor flavor. All that is, only in the museum.


Whaling rifle. We even gave it to hold it. Heavy damn, 11 with superfluous kilo. Previously, they say whales came to the bay, holidays arranged. We did not see anything.


The photo is straightforwardly reflects what is happening in providence. On top and bottom on the newspaper the same ship.


Well, yes, it was worth going to Chukotka to see the Chum in the museum ..


Okay, come back to the village. At the exit from the port, we meet the American SUV. Our and no worse can do, and even better. Uzik this proves. Uncle with a level from ours.


In general, you can actually get used if you wish. The administration, like almost in small villages, is trying to work. Built a small sports complex, swimming pool. There is a bus to the airport and the village. More precisely, the vakhatovka, but for the absence of the coat of arms, as they say ..


They have even something like dacha village.. There's actually quite cozy and there is very fun. Although there is a problem with building materials.


Oh! I did not show you the port itself from the sea. It's like the night. Polar day.


People seem to live quite a bit. It used to be more.


Yes, and the port itself is rather big.


It looks better. True, such sunny days There are rarely there. Rarely. And it's still cold. Although we were there in July.


Uliki, as promised. Sorry, but little pictures. I do not like such "landscapes" in reality. Guide Abramovich, yes. When they were the military (do not forget about Alaska).


One more. There, by the way, people work. Even Uzbeks brought Tajiks. They divide everything there, demolfate at home. And quite quickly demolish.


Well, they are these abarm, here are a little pictures from the hill. There really very beautiful, very clean air, beautiful sea. Well cold, yes, it happens. This is the bay of providence from a height of about 430 meters above sea level.


Because of the fogs, the photo is difficult. Moreover, the bay of providence. In the Komsomolskaya (bay indoor) fogs later enter and you can have time to take pictures. For example, long-suffering urchs.


You can climb alley even higher. I did not want to go down, honestly. Komsomolskaya bay 1.


2. The village of Providence itself on to me just.


3. Uls. A huge lake of the bastard is visible. Water in it is fresh and it contains Kizhuh. Some kind of variety listed in the Red Book. The lake in the right side of the photohrofia, separated by a relatively narrow oblique from the bay.


Fogs, what are the fogs beautiful. True for the month they zadolbali, as they are endless.


Pulls and fog .. view from the pier.


The whale bay came in. The truth is unauthorized. I did not want to be photographed, I got acquainted refused .. just managed to sfotkat.


It happens that they die there. Well, local kitoboes somewhere in smaller villages. Those Eskimos, Chukchi and others who live in their old traditions. After them, it remains this (not to watch nervous).


In the south-east of Chukotka in the water area of \u200b\u200bAnadyr Gulf, there is a beautiful corner of the peninsula, limited by Rocky Capes named after the Leskovsky and Bald Mountain Sea Port of Providence. The harsh, but the infinitely beautiful bay of providence has its own unique northern beauty. The magnificent corner under the light northern sky and the wonderful Providen local lore museum is a worthy reason to visit these fabulous places, Touch the ancient, mounted as a magnet, mysteries and secrets.

Toponym the Bay of "Providence", which appeared in 1848 with the light hand of Captain Englishman Thomas Mura, in memory of the "happy God's Providence", which allowed his ship to winter in a secluded natural bay, excites the imagination of the history of history. It was here that maritime merchant and whaling vessels rose for wintering, fearing the ferocious storms.

Courts received reliable protection in a calm harbor, thanks to successful geographical location Bay of Providence. At the very beginning, the width of the bay is up to 8 km, with the length of the bay of 34 km, the further deep into the way it becomes narrower. Down from Harbor Emma Width of the Bay of 4 km, and above 2.5 km. On any card, the bay is like a giant, curved to the north and northeast plant with separate bays.

Steep rocky shores, high hills up to 800 meters close it from cold storm winds. In the summer, the bay is free from the ice cover, then there are daily rings here. Depths fluctuate from 35 meters at the entrance to the bay to 150 meters. Along the banks of the bay there are minor bays and quiet harbor: Komsomolskaya bay, Slavyanka, Head, Harbor Emma, \u200b\u200bHorseman Bay, Vladimir, Cash.

On the eastern Bank Komsomolskaya bays are large villages of PGT Providence and ethnic village "Urmetiki", the airport with the same name "Cove of Providence", receiving international flights and charters. In the Bay of Slavs behind the natural wave of sea braid, Pilover and Cape Gaidamak is the Anchor Parking Savory.

For the first time on the shores of the bay in 1660, sailors from the ship under the command of Kurbat Ivanov appeared, but they did not name it and did not drive it to the card, and for another two hundred years she remained for geographers and researchers nameless before the wintering of Tomas Mura. In the summer of 1876, the Horseman's clip arrived here under the command of Captain Novoselsky, who first made a hydrographic survey in the bay of providence.

After Chelyuskin's events in 1937 O.Yu. Schmidt, the head of the Sportsmorputy approved the construction of the conducted port in the Bering Sea, his appearance gave a powerful impetus to the development of the territory. Many centuries on the sea braza Pilover was the Eskimo village, she, like many small villages of Chukchi and Evenkov, was evacuated to accommodate in 1941 by coastal defense batteries.

Today, tourists, travelers and lovers of rare and exotic northern sports come on the shores of the providence bay. Every year, winter races on snowmobiles and dog sumps are held here, in summer, tourists of Vodniks come here to make a fascinating waterfront on kayaks and other plaques on the routes of Marigorvators.


Bay Providence in the photo

Address: Chukotka JSC, Bering Sea, Anadyr Bay

GPS coordinates: 64.404094, -173.319303

Bay Providence on the map

Bay Providence on video

The Chukchi Peninsula is overwhelmed with bays and bays, but one of them is a mansion - the bay of providence. The name fully corresponds to the bay due to constant fogs that cover it almost round year And the local waters of the bay covered with a dense veil through which it is difficult to see. Local residents It has long been accustomed to this, but the visit to the guest will seem a big wonder. However, it was not named because of the fogs, but about it later.

Such an amazing phenomena is formed due to the elongated shape of the bay. In length, it is stretched by 34 kilometers, while in the width of only 4km, while they surround the bay of providence of steep and ripples, reaching 800 meters in a height. As a result, a peculiar natural tube is obtained, due to which constant fogs are formed. But despite this, the place is very important On the northern sea route due to the fact that here the sea is free from ice longer than elsewhere, from May to October.

Opening history.

The first who visited these places was Kurbat Ivanov, who was considered receivers of Dezhnev seeds in the development of these places. Ivanov's expedition reached these places in 1660, however, as well as the discoveries of Dezhnev, did not pay due importance to this event, although the bay was an ideal place For the construction of the northern port and the reference point on the northern trading path. The bay received its name only two centuries in 1848. That year in the area, the ship was in search of the Franklin expedition and in October, it was decided to winter in these places, the deep bay was an ideal place for overwhelming and the later the British called her bay of St. Providence. In the next one hundred years, a hidden trade war was conducted in the region. Russia struggled for his monopolies in the trade in local commodities and as he could have defended from the visits of American guestrs who changed fur and the walruct bone on whiskey. Lightweight clips and arrested American merchants periodically visited the bay, but it was left few of whom, because trade expeditions were super-profile.

At the present, the bay of the beginning began only at the end of the 30th year. In 1933, the Commission arrived here and developed a project for the construction of the port. The construction was accelerated and after the Second World War already there was a small town in two thousand people, and 5 thousand people reached the population of all towns of the bay. Currently, these places have been empty and here it remains for mostly the local population.

Village providence.

Chukchi has already seen these places for a long time, but about a full city on the shores of the bay of Providence, they thought only in the 30s. A completely small support point appeared in 1928, and it was only a warehouse with coal for floating past ships. Since 1933, at home and port were gradually built, and four years later in 37th, mass construction began here. The village began to fully function after the war, and his population reached 2 thousand people.

The next horse racing surveyed in the 50s of the 60s, when the confrontation with America scored the maximum turnover. Military parts were poured into these places, which led to a sharp jump in the population and there was even a plan for the construction of a city by 12 thousand people, but he was never destined to come true. But even despite this population exceeded 5 thousand people, and the settlement became one of the largest in Chukotka.

The collapse of the Union occurred and the collapse of the village. Military left, remained most of their local. From 1994 to 2002, no construction was conducted at all, and the local population was gradually leaving on " large land"And it seemed soon the village would disappear from the map of Russia, but this was not destined to happen and the last ten years of the village is gradually restored, overhaul was completely repaired, new buildings are being built everywhere. But the village of Ghosts is already unlikely to ever become so big as before, but only remains a reference important port on the Northern Sea Route and the fishery site.

Tourism.

As a military point on the map of Russia, the village is already hardly restored, but as an exotic tourist point may well be. In the last time, tourists are increasingly attracted unusual places on the planet, such as an excursion to north Pole It is worth a lot of money, while you need to defend in a big queue to get a coin ticket for flight. The bay of providence is also the edge of the earth with the untouched Northern Nature, the real natural museum, almost like another planet. The city itself is still unsuitable for tourism, it has a small museum of the history of the region and everything, but it can be developed as an unusual tourist point of the world.