The land of Franz Joseph is the Archipelago of Islands in the Barents Sea in the very north of Russia. In total, the archipelago consists of 192 islands. I happened to visit this place during the expedition to the Severen Pole on the board of the atomic icebreaker "50 years of victory."
Despite the middle of the summer, a day after our departure from the port of Murmansk, we began to fall asleep. 
Very soon, individual ice floes changed with whole ice fields. Minor icebergs began to come across. 
It was in the area that we met first polar bears. No wonder. Such a combination of ice, sushi and water is an ideal habitat for this polar predator. 
The main mining of the polar bear is nervous. He tracks it mainly by smell. Very often, the nerver hides in the stretches in the thickness of the ice. Shooting on the surface too often it does not risk. The polar bear, having tripped the nerpair with all the strength on the front paws, breaks the ice and then tries to pull it out. This teddy bear was explicitly late. Someone more successful has already dealt with the seal. 
Trusting your nose, white bears are able to climb far to the north of the nearest land. They have no natural enemies. They are not social animals and prefer to live alone. The only exception is moms with small bearings. Mother not only feeds a bear at the beginning of his life, but also protects against adult males. From time to time they attack the bear. 
Although they are able to overcome tens of kilometers on the icy desert, still a favorite habitat for them is the combination of land, ice fields and open water. Bears are perfectly swimming in the water, but once again prefer not to surprise. Small cracks in ice they can easily jump over. 
After successful hunting, the bear is not capable of weeks. Therefore, they are saturated. Just having enjoyed the bear can be easily recognized on a huge belly. 
Because of the fact that they do not have natural enemies, bears are rather curious. Of course, most of them prefer to stay from the atomic icebreaker away. Still, the difference in sizes is colossal. But some are suitable with interest straight to the board and try to see what is happening on the deck. 
Especially pleased with the bear with a very small bear. They circled around at least an hour. It was unusual, because most often, with the slightest danger, the female tries to lead the baby away. 
Here they themselves approached the ship and circled for a long time on the flames. 
We watched with great interest in their relationship. 
Trying to see what exactly happens on board, the Meshbed even climbed on Iceberg. 
We practically were at the level of her eye. It was probably the most interesting acquaintance with bears for all the time of the expedition. 
In addition to white bears, we still came across walruses. They are less muggy than nerves. Although the adult bear is sometimes capable of going to cope with the walrus. In the water they feel quite safe. Often their rookers are located right on big ice floes. 
However, when approaching big Ship. Most often prefer to dive into the water. There they are much more comfortable and the speed with which they float is much more than awkward movement on land. 
Large males are all covered with scars from fights with their relatives. Each big walrus seeks to protect their harem and territory from annoying competitors. Therefore, they have to spend most of life in battles. 
Two days later, we approached the first islands of the archipelago of the Franz Joseph. Earth's existence Eastern Spitsberena predicted many scientists. Lomonosov spoke about it at one time. One of the most fundamental studies on this issue was made by Peter Alekseevich Kropotkin. He even calculated the coordinates of the islands. Unfortunately, funds for the expedition were not found. Therefore, the opening of the islands was made absolutely by chance. The Austro-Hungarian expedition Carl Weiprecht and Julius Payer tried to find the northeastern pass, but was heated with ice near the New Earth. Gradually, the drift made them sailing and steam schooner to the coast of the archipelago. It happened on August 30 in 1873. Therefore, the newly open land was named after the Austrian emperor Franz Joseph I. 
The expedition leader in our journey was the famous Canadian traveler Lorry Dexter. Based on the ice setting around the island, it was decided to disembark the helicopter as shore. Inflatable boats "Zodiac" could not come close to the place of landing. We had to go ashore in the area of \u200b\u200bCape Flora on the island of Yuri Kuchiev. Interestingly, this island is one of the youngest on the archipelago. It was opened in 2008 during the Yamal icebreaker expedition. Before that, there was experiencies between the islands and it was part of Northbrooke Island. But the atomic team found that the experienses blocked water. Thus, a new island appeared on the map. He was named after the captain of the legendary icebreaker "Arctic". It was under his command for the first time in the history of mankind, the surface vessel reached the top of the world - the North Pole.
On board our icebreaker was the Mi-8 helicopter with the crew. Usually such large helicopters are not used for real work in the sea. For ice intelligence, more economical and smaller in size Mi-2. However, in our case, the landing of people and delivery of equipment was assumed, so the choice fell on this type of helicopter. 
Similar tasks for only experienced crews. It is necessary not only to sit down and take off from a small platform on the ship, but also to competently choose a landing place and make sure that there is no danger to people around. While landing on the shore or ice, the main problem was white bears. First of all, it was necessary to make sure that they were not nearby. 
A 300-meter mountainside rises next to the landing site. Thousands of birds nest on it. Basically, it is the Cayra and white seagulls. Black dots around the helicopter are just birds in the air. 
The first to the shore are people who ensure the safety of the rest of the group. The hunt for a polar bear is prohibited by law. And although they are armed, but the bullets are used in order to scare the beast. No one shoots on the defeat. In order to eliminate the ricochet, a steel core is used. Thus, you can shoot the stones and drive a bear. In addition, there are light grenades. 
Place of our landing - Cape "Flora". In this place, arctic expeditions were raised. For the first time, the crew of the British yacht "Air" was transferred under the command of Benjamin Lee Smith. His vessel was wicked in ice close to this place. Researchers have managed to build a hut from girlfriend and overwhelm on the island. With the onset of spring, they reached the new land on four sluts, where they were picked up by the English vessel, expelled in search. 
British polar explorer and geographer Frederick Jackson founded a stationary base here during an expedition to study the land of Franz Joseph. On June 17, 1896, the Norwegian researchers of Fercor Nansen and Yalmar Johansen, after its unsuccessful attempt to reach the North Pole, came out to this base. 
In this place of the Expedition of American Walter Wallman on a steamer "Formoof", as well as the duke of Arbutszi to Stella Polaserve. 
Many polar expeditions used brew coal reserves, whose deposit is on the island. Interestingly, Sedov during wintering neighbor Islands On the schooner "Holy Martyr Thomas" did not know anything about it. They desperately needed fuel and disassembled wooden buildings in the base. 
This is only a small part of the history of Arctic studies in this region. Officially, the archipelago was announced by the Russian territory during the Expedition of Isaak Ibrahimovich Islyamov in search of Sedov in 1914. It was then that the Russian flag was raised here. 
No less stories are affected in this place the beauty of Northern Nature. Summer is short, but very bright. Everywhere under the feet of multicolored moss, covered with flowers. It is worth only to come on this carpet and immediately fall into the water on the knee. 
Constantly heard is not a smaller bird gam. The surrounding cliffs were chosen by thousands of Cair and Chaws. 
They nest literally everywhere on these basalt cliffs. Only glaciers are free from bird settlements. 
White bears come here. On the islands also occurred sands, walrus, nervous, sea hare, Greenland seal, narrowing and beluga. A little south in the sea can be found by the taway. But in this visit we did not have the opportunity to see any animals. Only old bones. 
Back we flew one of the last helicopters. I wanted to walk on the island as long as possible and admire local beauties. And I must say that it was fully uttering. 
Almost immediately after takeoff, we felt a strong vibration. The helicopter was at first dramatically lost her height, and then with a set went to turn for the next cape. I sat in the tail and heard how the tail beam strongly creaked. 
After some time, we sat on the site and it became clear that we had a blade on one of the numerous Kair. Because of this, the propeller's ending was deformed. 
It was decided to transport everyone on rescue bots on the other side of the bay. There was free from ice coastline. After the evacuation of all people from the island, the helicopter crew will independently try to fly onto the icebreaker. 
Thus, we had a "wonderful" opportunity to enhance the beauty of the island during this disembarkation. However, the transition was not very long. Most of The paths fell on the hill so it was relatively easy to go. 
The rescue bot slowly approached the shore, freeing the depths, to not damage the screw to the lacquer. 
And then, in several flights, we and equipment transported us on board the ship. 
Despite the events ranked day, it was not possible to sleep on this night. At this time of the year, the Sun does not go beyond the horizon, so it is constantly light. Passing near the rest of the archipelago islands, we constantly met polar bears. Well, how can you miss this opportunity to get to know the closer wildlife Arctic? 
The second time next to the Islands of the Franz Joseph, we visited the way back, returning from the North Pole. 
First of all, we approached the basalt Rubini rock. She is named after the famous Italian tenor and is interested in its huge bird baza carrier. 
Thanks to the volcanic origin, the coast around the cliff is very cool. Therefore, even such a huge ship, as our atomic icebreaker, can approach it almost closely. This is a very impressive spectacle. In order to lead such a delicate operation, one of the sailors with a portable wagon is located on the nose. He constantly reports the distance to the rock and the trend of movement. 
The basalt slopes of the island are all quenched by birds. It is also interesting to observe the structure of the cliff, which seems collected from individual even columns. 
But the main goal Our re-coming was quiet on the island of Gucker. It was here that in 1929 the Soviet Research Station on the archipelago was opened. 
Unfortunately, by the time of our visit at the station for several years no one lived. All buildings on the territory were conserved and the only inhabitants here were unless the polar bears. On board our icebreaker were members of the first for all this time of the expedition to this island. They had to land ashore and appreciate the ability to restore this polar base. Before landing, they are most worried about the issue of the presence of uninvited guests from among the bears. Therefore, all the time before shipping ashore, they carefully studied the shore and build in binoculars. Because of the ice, it was not possible to approach the shore on the boats. Therefore, the landing was carried out again a helicopter. During the trip to the pole, ship mechanics managed to fix the ending and Mi-8 again ready for flights. The remaining passengers on the island did not land. Visibility on this day, unfortunately, was not very good. Therefore, as soon as a little bit, everyone immediately plunged into the helicopter and flew to the island. 
It turned out my visit to the Earth Franz Joseph during the expedition to the North Pole.
A source -
The archipelago "Land Franz Joseph" - a group of islands in high-techArctic - Where the permafrost permafrost is dominated, and the average annual temperature is -12 ° C.
Archipelago is located about a thousand kilometers from the North Pole.
Most of the Land Franz Joseph is covered with glaciers.
Although, do not confuse ZPI with the North Pole. In the summer, the temperature here still can reach +12 ° C and snow in July usually melts.
During this period, land is exposed, which, literally in a couple of weeks, is covered with moss and lichen, as well as blooming polar poppies, stamping, polar yoy, and other unpretentious plants.
Birds here not so that much, but they are. These are rugs, chicks, kayra, moaes, white seagulls, burgomistra, paint, pieces, gaga, barracks, etc.
An animals meet a polar bear and sands. By the way, you knew that the polar bear belongs to marine mammal And even the Latin Name of the White Bear - Ursus Maritimus translates as "Marine Bear"? In the sea, there are also nerves, sea hare, Greenland seal, walrus, narrow and whites.
- region included in a small area natural zone, known as the polar desert zone. The Arctic desert can be read here.
People at ZPI have never lived for quite understandable reasons - there are no firewood, nor berries, no mushrooms, nor deer, which can be domesticated, nor other animals on which you can hunt. Feed and warm here just nothing. Even the fin (brought by sea logs) is not lit, unlike the fins on the coast. It happens, apparently because the wet firewood simply do not have time to dry, so they round year Fully "impregnated" ice.
However, in the twentieth century, during the development of the Arctic, a meteorological station and military towns were built on Earth, Franz Joseph, so it turned out that during the awareness of civilization to live here. True, it costs all these considerable money, given the high cost of shipping food, fuel and building materials.
The history of the emergence of the Earth Franz Joseph (geological history)
In Dopalozoic Time there was a huge mainland on the site of the modern Barents SeaStoring to the west to the shores of Greenland. In the Paleozoic period began to occur
slap-forming movements, after which most of the current Barents Sea began to represent the mainland with a complex mountain relief.
However, erosion and denudation processes Gradually cut off the mountain relief of the mainland, turned it into a flat country, that in Verkhnevonsky time was captured by the waters of the sea.
At the beginning of the Permian time began to occur raising DNA Sea geosynclinal pools, and their crosses. Later, population movements were manifested, accompanied by energetic volcanic activities. Poor-forming processes were created powerful mountain chains New Earth, Urals, Kanin and Separate Parts Svalbard. Raising shelf is accompanied volcanic eruptions (Basalt Pokrov Svalbard and Land Franz Joseph). According to Furside Nansen on the site of the Barents Sea in the tertiary time was located mountain country, raised above the modern sea level by 500 m.
Quaternary time happened placing powerful glacial coverings. To the maximum phase of glaciation under the action of the island's glacial load and the adjacent space of the bottom of the sea immersed at 300-400 m. In the late- and postleglands took place mailing of glacial covers and complex coastline oscillations. The process of raising the coastline of the Barents Sea continues now. The pace of the general lift of the archipelago over the past 7,000 years is 1-5 mm / year.
By the way, on Earth Franz Joseph still you can find pieces of petrified trees, as well as deer horns, which suggests that once a long time it could rather actively grow and diverse a variety of flora and fauna.
Deer on Earth Franz Joseph lived in the middle-grade time (8-2.5 thousand years ago). It follows that on average Holocene climate archipelago was warmer, and vegetation is richer than now.
The end of the "deer time" can be precisely dated. Oleni horns are not found below the 5-meter level. Consequently, the worsening of the climate, the major advancing of glaciers and extinct deer on the archipelago islands occurred when his shores were 5 m below, i.e. About 2.5 thousand years ago.
The extinction of deer and the major advancing of the archipelago glaciers coincides with the time of the forest zone and the revival of the TundR zone along northern coast Russia, as well as with the departure of the thermal-loving fauna from the coastal waters of Spitsberegin.
History of the opening and mastering of the land of Franz Joseph
Theoritical opening of the land of Franz Joseph
The first thoughts on the need to study the northern territories appeared in the XVIII century. Mikhail Lomonosov in labor entitled " Short description different travels According to the northern seas and the testimony of the possible passage by the Siberian Ocean in East India, "the islands had to find the islands east of Spitsberegen.
At the end of the sixties, the famous Russian meteorologist A.I. Vaekov raised the question of organizing a large expedition for the study of Russian polar seas. This idea was warmly supported by the famous geographer and revolutionary, Anarchism theorist Prince P.A. Kropotkin. Various considerations, and mostly observation of the ice of the Barents sea led Kropotkin to the conclusion that "There is no open land between Svalbard and New Earth, which extends north of Spitsberegin and keeps the ice for himself ... The possible existence of such an archipelago pointed out in its excellent, but a few well-known report on currents in the Arctic Ocean Russian fleet officer Baron Schilling". In 1870, Kropotkin was a draft expedition. However, the royal government refused funds, and the expedition did not take place.
Practical opening of the land of Franz Joseph
The land of Franz-Joseph was opened by the Austro-Hungarian expedition of Julius Payer and Karl Weiprecht, and by whom was not examined - both the British, and the Scots, and the Americans ... And I still got anyway.
In the photo Julius Payer and Karl Weiprecht. By the way, what kind of fur coat is one of them? None of the red-born polar bear?)
In 1901, the Archipelago was examined by the first Russian expedition on the icebreaker "Ermak" under the post of Vice Admiral Makarov. It is alleged that it was during this period on the Islands of the Archipelago for the first time the Russian flag will be raised.
In 1914, in search of G. Ya. Sedov archipelago visited Ishak Islyamov. He declared ZPI to the Russian territory and raised the Russian flag over it.
In some sources (even in the same notorious Wikipedia) they write, which announced the ZFI of the Russian territory precisely Islyam. Although, the flag before it was put to Makarov, so it seems to be that Makarov first presented the rights of Russia to the land of Franz Joseph?
Why such a traveler arose - I do not know, but in order to justice, I will note both facts - and you already decide who was the first.
Islyamov, telling the acquisition for the country of the new territory, offered to immediately rename it from the land of Franz Joseph in the land of Romanov, but the offer is stuck in the bureaucratic devils. And there I left in history first one empire, and immediately behind it is different. Ishak Islyamov became a member of the Helsingforsian Muslim Executive Committee of the Army, Fleet and Workers, then fought as part of the White Army, emigrated, headed in Constantinople with a hydrographic part of the Russian marine base.
In 1926, the CEC of the USSR accepted the decree on which all the Arctic Islands, adjacent to the land borders of the state, was announced by the Soviet territory. Three years later, in the summer of 1929, Otto Schmidt during the polar expedition on the icebreaker steamer "Georgy Sedov" Waterflag on the Soviet flag archipelago.
In 1929, the Soviet government decided to establish a research station for strengthening scientific work on the territory of the Arctic. At the same time, the first Soviet Research Station opened in the Bay of the Quiet Island of Gucker. In 1931, the archipelago was announced by the territories of the Soviet Union, since that time, the development of the North Pole with Soviet researchers begins. Since then, the archipelago attended the Soviet polar expeditions annually.
The Soviet government was going to change the name of Franz Joseph as politically not convenient and renamed the archipelago in honor of the Norwegian researcher Fogrotof Nansen or the Russian anarchist Kropotkin, but there was no solution.
In addition to scientists, the military tightly settled on ZPI. In 1936, the first military air base of the USSR was organized on Rudolf Island. And then went, went ... Nevertheless, in the 90s of the twentieth century, due to the well-known economic and political reasons, the military archipelago left, leaving only the border shop "Nurskoye", located on the island of Aleksandra.
The town of the border linear separation of the military unit 9794, which includes the most north Airport And banging - it works so far. Not so long ago, there was an excellent two-storey building with all the amenities: central heating, sewage, cold and hot water, satellite TV. Inside the complex there is a "winter garden", however, plants and trees there are artificial. The garden is called the "Atrium". There is always a blue sky with cumulative clouds, playground, fountain, shops, billiards, aquarium with alive fish, cinema hall, table tennis.
Only officers and ensigns are served in Nurendskoye. A third of the border guards live on the outpost along with his wives. Fly here from Vorkuta and Arkhangelsk. Dense fogs, low cloudiness, precipitation and strong winds - such weather on Earth Alexandra all year round. There were cases of unsuccessful landings, but an amazing thing: in the entire history, no man on the island died.
Although, on other islands, the victims were. For example, on Grem-Belle, where from the 50s to the 90s of the twentieth century was a unique ice airfield, a couple of times there were air crashes with victims.
And finally, near the airfield lies AN-12 № 11994But it was not possible to detect any information about it.
In one of the forums, I found the information that it was just a bad landing - the plane was too early at the lane. But there were no victims there - everything ended well.
If we talk about the victims, then I suspect, the main danger of the archipelago of the Land Franz Joseph arises because of the polar bears.
Although, on the other hand, given the huge number of bears on ZPI, deaths because of them there were not much. It is believed that the land of Franza Joseph is the maternity home of the White Bears, so it can be assumed that the serums met with predators constantly. So, the percentage of accidents is actually not at all high.
Well, again, if people are in the ZPI and died, then exclusively because of their own nonsense and negligence. All as everywhere. Here, for example, history:
Although, enough about sad. Good on Earth Franz Joseph is also a lot. And few tourists have the opportunity to make sure.
Land Franz Joseph in our time - photos, descriptions, cards
ZPI is the northernmost territory of Russia, located about nine hundred kilometers from the North Pole. Administrative archipelago refers to the Arkhangelsk region. The coordinates of the land of Frankca Joseph: 80.666667, 54.833333.
Wikipedia says that ZPI consists of 192 islands. But it turns out that this expense still had certain doubts and the 192nd Island is still officially "not registered" and does not have a separate name.
The letter through the Russian Embassy in Norway was transferred to the Russian Foreign Ministry, and from there the disposal ofManaging navigation and oceanography of the Ministry of Defense of the Russian Federation - to figure out how much the islands in the archipelago.
At the same time, after public statements about the "appearance of a new island among Russia", the deputies of the Arkhangelsk Regional Assembly assigned the name of the famous polar captain Yuri Kuchiev. And under this title, he already appears in Wikipedia, although the solution of the regional meeting on such a question is not legitimate. So now it remains to complete the opening - officially recognize and give the names of the new geographical objectsWhat should be done by the Office of Navigation and Oceanography and the Geographical Name Commission. On the island of Heis, Vladimir Sanin wrote one of his most famous books - "Do not tell you by the Arctic - goodbye."
Galle Island, Cape Tegethoff
The cliffs are also famous on the tip of the island, which rise from the sea itself.
Willchek Island
Another island associated with the tragic events of the expedition of the archipelago of the archipelago, is the island of Wilchek. On the high island There is a grave of one of the participants of the expedition on the ship "Admiral Tegethoff" Otto Krisch, who was a mechanic on the ship and died in 1873 from Qingi.
Camp Island, Cape Trieste
At Cape Trieste are unique stone formations of perfect round shapes - spherolites, or specs. Markazite specs are found on Cape everywhere, and their size from several centimeters to several meters in diameter.
The word "concretion" comes from the Latin Concretio - "Action". These are deposits, mineral formation of a rounded form in sedimentary rocks. In its composition it is sandstone. In the very center of concretion there is an organic core, around which loose material of continental origin accumulated.
Strait Negri.
Islands of Apollo and table
These islands are not distinguished by anything, and even on marine maps usually indicated only more large Island - The table, but, as it often happens, the most interesting is located on the island of Radom, quite small and inconspicuous. In this case, is the island of Apollonov. The island is known for the fact that there is one of the largest rooting of the Atlantic walrles, brought into the Red Book of the Russian Federation.
Island Gucker
On the island of Gucker there is an abandoned Soviet polar station "Quiet". The station was opened in 1929, and in 1959 closed, but in those days it was the largest Arctic Research Station of the USSR. Until today, the station has retained its appearance - you can see with your own eyes how the polarks lived in those times.
Rock Rubini Rock
The largest bird market at which more than 50 thousand birds nests. Among them, Maucke, Cayra, Clean, Burgomistra and Luriki. Cayra nest directly on the ledge. Nockets they do not build, but lay eggs on a bare stone surface. The seagulls of the Mauca build nests from herbs, lichen and other vegetation, bonding it with their own litter.
Algera Island
Land of Wilcheka, Cape Geller
On the island there are remnants of the wintering fort McKornley and the grave of Burnta Bentsen, who could not survive the wintering of 1898-99. He was in the expedition of Walter Walman, the main purpose of which was the conquest of the North Pole. The main camp of the expedition was at Cape Tegtetthoff of Gall Island. At Cape Geller, a temporary food warehouse was organized. It was built from large flat stones and covered the skins of killed walrles and bears. The temperature inside it in winter was kept below 10 degrees. In January 1899, Burt Bentsen died. However, it was buried only in the spring. Before his death, he asked not to bury him to spring, as it was afraid that his body would become easy prey for the sands and polar bears.
Rudolf Island, Cape Flygeli
Northern Cape Archipelago Land Franz Joseph - Extreme Island Russian Federation and Eurasia.
Rudolph Island, Greenhouse Bay
In the Bay of Greenhouses there is an abandoned meteorological station, which was built in 1931-1932. It was the second station on the archipelago and worked until 1995.
Jackson Island
Jackson Island and Cape Norway are famous for the fact that Furoof Nansen and Yar Johansen spent here (1895-96). They returned after trying to conquer the North Pole, as they thought, on Svalbard, but came to the land of Franz Joseph. They had time to prepare for winter. They shot a walrus and polar bears, built the dwelling in which they spent the winter, mainly in a lying position in one sleeping bag. In Christmas, they turned shirts inside out, and in New Year Nansen said Johansen, that after all the experienced together, he can call him just Furoof, and not Mr. Nansen, and shook his hand. But they remained on "you". The Cape has a memorable sign and there are limits of wintering.
Nordbrok Island, Cape Flora
A distinctive feature of the archipelago Land Franz Joseph is the presence of a large number of historical places - the remains of the wintering camps of expeditions, which planned to use the archipelago as a starting pad to achieve the Northern Pole, and some expeditions fell to the archipelago after unsuccessful attempts to conquer the top of the planet. Almost all expeditions on the Earth Franz Joseph stayed at Cape Flora Nordbrook Island.
The island was opened by the expedition of Benjamin Lee-Smith in 1880. Here was his second expedition 1881-1182. Wintering was forced. Initially, Lee Smith planned to winter on Bell Island. In 1894, British Frederick Jackson built the first settlement on Cape Flora - Elmwood. The remains of the expedition buildings can be seen now.
In 1896, the historical meeting of Nansen and Frederic Jackson occurred at Cape Flora. On June 17, two came to the caulation. No one was waiting for them and did not meet, and they did not expect anyone here to meet. These were the famous polar researcher Furoof Nansen and his companion Frederick Yar Johansen. With the legs to the head, they were covered with soot and mud, and with them they had two kayaks and narts. For three years, Nansen and its 12 satellites were planned to conquer the North Pole on the vessel's specially built for swimming in ice and wintering vessels.
In 1893, "Fram" in the island of the north of the archipelago Novosibirsk Islands. The vessel passed significantly south. After two years spent in the ice, "Fram" reached its most northern geographic location. 700 kilometers from the Nanous Pole Nansen and Johansen left the vessel and went to conquer the pole on dog sledding and kayaks. On April 8, they reached a record latitude of 86 degrees 14 minutes of northern latitude and were forced to turn to the south to the archipelago of the Franz Joseph. After wintering on the island of Jackson at Cape Norway, they moved to the south and reached the Cape Flora, where they met with the Jackson expedition. This meeting actually saved their lives. At one time, Nansen did not take Frederic Jackson on the "Fram", as it believed that the North Pole should be conquered by Norwegians. Jackson was from the UK.
Accidentally opening the archipelago-covered archipelago during research swimming in the Arctic Ocean, the Austro-Hungarian sailors called his land Franz Joseph, named his then monarch ...
After the Austrians there were English, Americans, Norwegians, Italians, from here the abundance of foreign names on the map of the archipelago - Islands Lamon, Champ, Tsigler, Rudolf, Heisa, Cape Brys, Rock Rubini Rock - just 192 islands with a total area of \u200b\u200bmore than 16 thousand km² and Countless capes, rocks, bays, not all of which have their own names.
Territory Russian Empire The land of Franz-Joseph officially became in 1914, after the polar expedition, under the command of Captain 1 rank, Ishac Isaamova, which was watered there by the Russian flag. Here, on the island of Rudolf, a little west Cape Flegelli, there is the northernmost point of Russia and the whole Eurasian mainland.
The natural zone, to which the Earth belongs to Franz Joseph, scientists call the polar desert. Over 85% of the islands are covered with glaciers, the thickness of the ice cover in some places reaches 500 meters. Flora is rather poor, short polar summer only about 5% of the islands surface are covered with vegetation: mshami, lichens, very rarely - arctic flowers. But many representatives of the animal world, on land, this is a polar bear, occasionally sands, in coastal waters - walruges, seals, dolphins, swim here and whales.
Detailed map of the archipelago Land Franz Joseph (click on the map to enlarge):
Administrative territory of Franz Joseph refers to the Primorsky district of the Arkhangelsk region, but there is no permanent population, and never. On the islands since the proclaiming of their Russian territory there were polar stations, military units, some are located there and now. Such a "temporary accommodation" left a negative trail on the archipelago - the ecology of the Land of Franz Joseph has suffered a lot over the years intensive study and development of the Arctic.
Only metal barrels abandoned on the islands from under petroleum products, environmentalists numbered about 50 thousand, and many of them are filled with fuel. Since 2012, within the framework of the Program of the Government of the Russian Federation, the territory of the archipelago from litter is being cleaned, but before the completion of the work is still far away.
Harsh, but in its picturesque northern nature, historical sights associated with the conquest of the Arctic attract fans of expedition tourism from the archipelago different countries. For them, with the onset of polar day, Russian travel agencies organize traveling to Franz Joseph in atomic icebreaker "50 years of victory" and diesel icebreaker "Captain Dranitsyn". Tourists fall ashore with the help of inflatable boats or helicopters.
Tourists have the opportunity to see unique natural objects: Famous cape Tegethoff on o-ve Gall palaisulican on the island of Tsigler, Atlantic rookers Morzha, surprisingly beautiful noncross the lakes.
On the island of Champs can be seen and photographed stones with a diameter of up to three meters Almost perfect spherical shape, their origin is unknown, although these balls are clearly created by nature.
The biggest impression leaves the largest bird Bazaar on Rubini Rock Rockwhere more than 50 thousand birds nest at the same time.
On the archipelago many residues and memorable places of winter camps of various polar expeditions, foreign and Russian. There are several burials of famous conquerors of the North, in particular, on the island of Rudolf is buried legendary Russian polarist Georgy Sedov. And at Cape Flora can be visited perfectly preserved ship cutting 1894Participants of several polar expeditions were used.
Recent changes: 04/20/2014Video of the Land Franz Joseph
Led him to the conclusion that:
"There is still no open land between Spitsbard and the New Earth, which extends north of Spitsbergen and keeps the ice for himself ... the possible existence of such an archipelago in its excellent, but a little well-known report on the flows in the Arctic Ocean of the Russian Fleet Officer Baron Schilling.
On May 20, 1874, Tegetgooff crew was forced to throw a ship and go on the ice to the shores of the new land, where he met with Russian fisosors who had assisted in the return of the expedition.
Research
In September 1927, the Soviet sail-motor vessel "Elding" of the Northern Scientific and Fishing Expedition of the Volnch, Soviet Sailing and Motor Ship, was approached, due to the large cluster broken ice The coast, the landing was not produced.
Since 1928, the situation around the archipelago began to exacerbate. After the successful flight of Umberto Nobile and Raul Amundsen on the Dirijhable "Norway", it began to prepare the following, purely national Arctic expedition on the Airship "Italy", in connection with this, in the Italian press, opinions were expressed about the possible upcoming annexation of the Franz Josef land in favor Italy. "Italy", departing from the base on Svalbard, passed over the northern tip of the archipelago from the west to the east in mid-May 1928, during his second Arctic flight, but a catastrophe occurred in the third flight on the pole. In subsequent search for airship, an active part accepted Soviet UnionUsing icebreakers and icebreaking ships.
On July 31, 1928, the decision of the SNK on the strengthening of research works in the Arctic possessions of the USSR. The first five-year plan of scientific research was developed, according to which Franz Joseph, as in other Arctic lands, was intended to build geophysical observatory. The financing of scientific works was conducted by the deduction of 1.5-2.25% from income from the Arctic fishery and trade. Expeditions aimed at consolidating the country of the most controversial territory ( New Earth And the land of Franz-Joseph) were equipped in ahead of manner, not expecting the final approval of the plan.
In August 1928, in the framework of the search for the crew "Italy", considerable space along southern Coast France-Joseph lands during the month examined icebreaking steamer "G. Sedov ", conducting extensive hydro and meteorlements.
In September 1928, the "Krasin" icebreaker approached the shore of the earth Alexandra and the lands of George. On earth George, an attempt was made to build a house in case of the emergence of the members of the actuator's crew member but, because of the approached ice, only part of food and building materials managed to the shore. At Cape Nile the crew of the icebreaker for the first time climbed over the USSR flag archipelago.
On December 19, 1928, the Norwegian government, confirming the receipt of notifications about the decree of the USSR CEC dated April 15, 1926, made a reservation against the Land of Franz Joseph: "The Royal Government is unknown to make any other interests on Earth Franz Joseph, In addition to the economic interests of Norway ... " In print, plans for the creation of a permanent Norwegian settlement in the archipelago in 1929 were discussed, the courts of Norwegian kitoboes were preparing the courts "Balleosen" and "Tornesse-1", Norway's marine officers participated on the expedition.
From the Soviet side, the accelerated preparation of the expedition began. The project was developed by the Polar Commission of the Academy of Sciences and approved by the Government Arctic Commission on March 5, 1929, SNK, after the project approval, allocated the necessary funds, the direct organization of the navigation. O. Yu. Schmidt, Deputy R. L. Samoilovich and V. Yu. Visa, Vesa - icebreaking steamer " Sedov "commanded Captain V. I. Voronin, the leadership of the expedition in Arkhangelsk at the Plenum of the City Council was awarded the flag of the USSR.
July 21, 1929 steamer "G. Sedov "came out of Arkhangelsk and July 29, passing through heavy ice, came to the Cape Flora, because of the inconvenience of the approach to Him, Cape reached the Sunny Party, who established the flag there, the Observatory was decided to build a quiet island of Gucker in the bay, on the site of the wintering of the expedition of the city of Ya. Sedov 1914. Until August 12, the bay quiet was the unloading of equipment and food, on the shores were built at home and radio station, then " Sedov "conducted hydrological studies in the British Canal, passing north to 82 ° 14 'p. sh. In the Bay of Greenhouses about. Rudolf was discovered three buildings of the Italian expedition "Stella Polar," attempts were made to find the grave of G. Ya. Sedov on about. Rudolph. August 29, the ship returned to the bay quiet.
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The land of Franz Joseph is the Archipelago of Islands in the Barents Sea in the very north of Russia. In total, the archipelago consists of 192 islands. I happened to visit this place during the expedition to the North Pole on board the atomic icebreaker "50 years of victory."
Land Franz Joseph, Russia
Despite the middle of the summer, after our departure from the port of Murmansk, we began to fall asleep.
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Very soon, individual ice floes changed with whole ice fields. Minor icebergs began to come across.
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It was in the area that we met first polar bears. No wonder. Such a combination of ice, sushi and water is an ideal habitat for this polar predator.
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The main mining of the polar bear is nervous. He tracks it mainly by smell. Very often, the nerver hides in the stretches in the thickness of the ice. Shooting on the surface too often it does not risk. The polar bear, having tripped the nerpair with all the strength on the front paws, breaks the ice and then tries to pull it out. This teddy bear was explicitly late. Someone more successful has already dealt with the seal.
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Trusting your nose, white bears are able to climb far to the north of the nearest land. They have no natural enemies. They are not social animals and prefer to live alone. The only exception is moms with small bearings. Mother not only feeds a bear at the beginning of his life but also protects against adult males. From time to time they attack the bear.
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Although they are able to overcome tens of kilometers on the ice desert, still a favorite habitat for them is the combination of land, ice fields and a water outdoor. Bears are perfectly swimming in the water, but once again prefer not to surprise. Small cracks in ice they can easily jump over.
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After successful hunting, the bear is not capable of weeks. Therefore, they are saturated. Just having enjoyed the bear can be easily recognized on a huge belly.
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Because of the fact that they do not have natural enemies, the bears are rather curious. Of course, most of them prefer to stay from the atomic icebreaker away. All the same difference in size is colossal. But some are suitable with interest straight to the board and try to see what is happening on the deck.
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Especially pleased with the bear with a very small bear. They circled around at least an hour. It was unusual, because most often, with the slightest danger, the female tries to lead the baby away.
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Here they themselves approached the ship and circled for a long time on the flames.
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We watched with great interest in their relationship.
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Trying to see what exactly is happening on board, the bear has even climbed on Iceberg.
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We practically were at the level of her eye. It was probably the most interesting acquaintance with bears for all the time of the expedition.
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In addition to white bears, we still came across walruses. They are less muggy than nerves. Although the adult bear is sometimes capable of going to cope with the walrus. In the water they feel quite safe. Often their rookers are located right on big ice floes.
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However, when the large ship is most often preferred to dive into water. There they are much more comfortable and the speed with which they float much more than awkward movement on land.
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Large males are all covered with scars from fights with their relatives. Each big walrus seeks to protect their harem and territory from annoying competitors. Therefore, they have to spend most of life in battles.
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Two days later, we approached the first islands of the archipelago of the Franz Joseph. Earth's existence Eastern Spitsberena predicted many scientists. Lomonosov spoke about it at one time. One of the most fundamental studies on this issue was made by Peter Alekseevich Kropotkin. He even calculated the coordinates of the islands. Unfortunately, they did not find funds for the expedition. Therefore, the opening of the islands was made absolutely by chance. The Austro-Hungarian expedition of Charles Weiprecht and Julius Payer tried to find the northeastern passage but was heated with ice close to the new land. Gradually, the drift made them sailing and steam schooner to the coast of the archipelago. It happened on August 30 in 1873. Therefore, the newly open land was named after the Austrian emperor of the Franz Joseph I.
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The expedition leader in our journey was the famous Canadian traveler Lorry Dexter. Based on the ice setting around the island, it was decided to disembark the helicopter as shore. Inflatable boats "Zodiac" could not come close enough to the place of landing. We had to go ashore in the area of \u200b\u200bCape Flora on the island of Yuri Kuchiev. Interestingly, this island is one of the youngest on the archipelago. It was opened in 2008 during the Yamal icebreaker expedition. Before that, there was experiencies between the islands and it was part of Northbrooke Island. But the atohydrate team discovered that the experienses blocked water. So a new island appeared on the map. He was called in the credit of the captain of the legendary icebreaker "Arctic". It was under his command for the first time in the history of mankind, the surface vessel reached the top of the world - the North Pole.
On board our icebreaker was the Mi-8 helicopter with the crew. Usually such large helicopters are not used for real work in the sea. For ice intelligence, more economical and smaller in size Mi-2. However, in our case, the landing of people and delivery of equipment was assumed, so the choice fell on this type of helicopter.
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Similar tasks for only experienced crews. It is necessary not only to sit down and take off from a small platform on the ship, but also competently choose a place to land and make sure that there is no danger to people around. While landing on the shore or ice, the main problem was white bears. First of all, it was necessary to make sure they were not nearby.
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A 300 meter mountain slope towers near the landing site. Thousands of birds nest on it. Basically, it is the Cayra and white seagulls. Black dots around the helicopter are just birds in the air.
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The first to the shore are sitting on people ensuring the safety of the rest of the group. The hunt for a polar bear is prohibited by law. And although they are armed, but the bullets are used to scare the beast. No one shoots on the defeat. In order to eliminate the ricochet used steel core. Thus, you can shoot the stones and remove the bear. In addition, there are light grenades.
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Place of our landing - Cape "Flora". In this place, arctic expeditions were raised. For the first time, the crew of the British yacht "Ayra" was overloid, under the command of Benjamin Lee Smith. His vessel was wicked in ice close to this place. Researchers have managed to build a hut from girlfriend and overwhelm on the island. With the onset of spring, they reached the new land on four sluts, where they were sent to the English ship sent to search.
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British polar explorer and geographer Frederick Jackson founded a stationary base here during an expedition to study the land of Franz Joseph. On June 17, 1896, the Norwegian researchers of Fercor Nansen and Yalmar Johansen, after its unsuccessful attempt to reach the North Pole, came out to this base.
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In this place of the Expedition of the American Walter Wellman on the steamer "Formoof", as well as the Duke of Arbutsi to Stella Polaserve.
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Many polar expeditions used the reserves of brown coal whose field is on the island. I wonder what Sedov during the wintering of the neighboring Island on the schooner "Holy Martyr Thoma" did not know anything about it. They desperately needed fuel and disassembled wooden buildings in the base.
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This is only a small part of the history of Arctic studies in this region. Officially, the archipelago was announced by the Russian territory during the Expedition of Isaak Ibrahimovich Islyamov in search of Sedov in 1914. It was then that the Russian flag was raised here.
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No less stories are affected in this place the beauty of Northern Nature. Summer here is a short but very bright. Everywhere under the legs, multicolored moss covered with flowers. It is worth only to come on this carpet and immediately fall into the water on the knee.
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Constantly heard is not a smaller bird gam. The surrounding cliffs were chosen by thousands of Cair and Chaws.
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They nest literally everywhere on these basalt cliffs. Only glaciers are free from bird settlements.
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White bears come here. On the islands also occurred sands, walrus, nervous, sea hare, Greenland seal, narrowing and beluga. A little south in the sea can be found by the taway. But in this visit we did not have the opportunity to see any animals. Only old bones.
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Back we flew one of the last helicopters. I wanted to walk on the island as long as possible and admire local beauties. And I must say that we managed to fully.
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Almost immediately after takeoff, we felt a strong vibration. The helicopter first lost his height and then with a set went to turn for the neighboring cape. I sat in the tail and heard how the tail beam strongly creaked.
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After some time, we sat on the site and it became clear that we had a bundle on one of the numerous Kair. Because of this, the propeller's ending was deformed.
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It was decided to transport everyone on rescue bots on the other side of the bay. There was a free from ice coastline. After the evacuation of all people from the island, the helicopter crew will independently try to fly onto the icebreaker.
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Thus, we have fallen a "wonderful" opportunity to enhance the beauty of the island during this disembarkation. However, the transition was not very long. Most of the path fell on the hill therefore it was relatively easy to go.
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The second time next to the islands of the land of Franz Joseph we visited the way back from the North Pole.
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First of all, we approached the basalt Rubini rock. It is named after the famous Italian tenor and is interested in its oval bird baza carrier.
Thanks to the volcanic origin, the coast around the cliff is very cool. Therefore, even such a huge ship as our atomic icebreaker can approach it almost closely. This is a very impressive spectacle. In order to lead such a delicate nose operation, one of the sailors with a portable walkie-talkie is located. He constantly reports the distance to the rock and the trend of movement.
Rock Rubini, Russia // Dmytrocherkasov.LiveJournal.com
The basalt slopes of the island are all quenched by birds. It is also interesting to observe the structure of the cliff that seems collected from individual even columns.
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But the main goal of our re-entering was the bay quiet on the island of Gucker. It was here that in 1929 the Soviet Research Station on the archipelago was opened.
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Unfortunately, by the time of our visit at the station for several years no one lived. All buildings on the territory were conserved and the only inhabitants here were unless the polar bears. On board our icebreaker were members of the first for all this time of the expedition to this island. They had to land ashore and appreciate the ability to restore this polar base. Before landing, they are most worried about the issue of the presence of uninvited guests from among the bears. Therefore, all the time before shipping ashore, they carefully studied the shore and build in binoculars. Because of the ice, it was not possible to approach the shore on the boats. Therefore, the landing was carried out again a helicopter. During the trip to the pole, ship mechanics managed to fix the ending and Mi-8 again ready for flights. The remaining passengers on the island did not land. Visibility on this day unfortunately was not very good. Therefore, as soon as a little bit, everyone immediately plunged into the helicopter and flew to the island.
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It turned out my visit to the Earth Franz Joseph during the expedition to the North Pole.
dmytrocherkasov.
30/11/2013
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