N.V. Mopov
candidate of Biological Sciences
senior Researcher, Moscow
New Earth - the largest and exotic archipelago in the north of Russia
Memory researchers of the new land L .. Grinevetsky, R.L.Shimalovich and M.M. Ermolaeva
Border and peripheral (distant) regions of the country for various reasons, for example, the inaccessibility and (or) extremity of the natural and climatic conditions, still remain little-known and create such a sort of mysteriousness, mysteriousness. One of the similar mysterious lands is the new land archipelago, located on the border of Europe and Asia and, together with the Vaigach Island, serving a geographical barrier between the two seas of the Western Arctic - Barents and Karsky. This 900-kilometer largest island arc is directed almost from the very coast of the mainland sushi in the direction North Pole. Like a mysterious magnet, she was a few centuries to manila to himself not one generation of travelers and navigators who were trying, despite the enormous risk of swimming in the ice and Numerous bird colony-bazaars are arranged by coastal cliffs; To visit the rivers literally clogged with delicious golts, with their own eyes to see the colonies of Latin Guses.
Here I was fortunate enough to spend four expeditionary seasons, and therefore my next story is dedicated to this archipelago.
History of opening and mastering the archipelago. Previously, others, from the beginning of the XVI century, the Islands of the Archipelago and the Seaquators around him began to attend Russian industrialists - Zverobyi from Pyrosa and from the lower Pechora. Alas, stories are not a single document directly speaking the brave discoverers of the archipelago, coming from ancient Russia. Only in the oral work of the Pomorov, the legends were preserved about the former commercial expeditions of the distant time on these northern islands. The present, strictly scientific, geographical discovery of the new land - already with cards, records of diaries and compiled later by colorful "pictures" confirming this event, occurred at the very end of the XVI century. In the 1590s. District Northern Path - through the Arctic seas - they sought to establish direct trading connections with China and other countries South-East Asia Dutch merchants. They intended to exchange for European manufactory to establish deliveries to this part of the old light of silk, tea, jewels, spices, porcelain, other exotic goods.
Three Dutch expeditions in 1594, 1595 and 1596-1597. They allowed the outline of the Western, Barentsomorsk coast of the New Earth to the geographical map, show main landmarks and objects on it. The Dutch opening of the new land in time coincided with the invention by humanity of the first geographical maps of modern type. So the New Earth's archipelago "is incredibly lucky": it was in them (albeit with distortions and inaccuracies caused by the disadvantage of reliable data) Already from the end of the XVI - early XVII century. Almost two and a half centuries, knowledge of the new land was limited to the information obtained by European navigators.
The second "opening" of the new land took place in the XIX century. This period brought the first scientifically reliable information about the archipelago - its geographical position, geology, natural resources, seas, washing the banks of the islands. The beginning of accurate instrumental studies was putting an expedition to the main hydrographic control, headed by F.P. Litter. In 1821-1824. He made four swims to the western shores of the archipelago, describing most of them - by latitude from the island of Kryov Earth (the most southern archipelago limit) to Cape Nassau (North Island). Multi-year expedition F.P. Litter were defined geographical coordinates All key capes, islands and bays, which could be navigated in the future during coastal swimming, the height of the coastal hills, composed of a map of the examined western part of the Southern and North Islands.
Started by F.P. Litch work on the description of the new land in 1832-1835. Continuing one of his associates on research in the mouth of the Pechora River Suborugurian P.K. Pakhtusov. Unfortunately, in November 1835, his heroic efforts to study the new land interrupted a sudden death. Headed by P.K. The foreign expedition of Russia is obliged by the fact that the map was applied to the South and Eastern areas of the South Island from the Caracan Gate, the southern shields of the Macoquincine Ball and almost 3/4 of the North Islands coastal region, to Cape Far, were referred to A number of the most interesting in the fishery value of the bays and lips.
At the turn of the 1860-1870s. Because of the ice-climatic conditions changed in this part of the Earth (one of the "small warming of the Arctic") navigation situation improved so much that for several years, the Norwegian Survival ships were able to penetrate into the Kara Sea. One of the captains of Norwegian fields - E.G. Johannessene - managed on the narrow strait of the Mashekkin Ball and in the Kara Sea, usually covered with ice cover, insurmountable for vessels of that time (for the first time along the Eastern shore of the new land, Savva Hoshkin was held in the 1760s.), Proceed along the Kara Coast of the Archipelago, reaching extreme southern The tip of the southern island. This navigator belongs to another record - in 1870, for the first time after Willem, the Barents, he came into a desire and visited the northern part of the North Island. Norwegian National Academy of Sciences found the results of swimming pools E.G. Johannessen is so significant for the knowledge of the Arctic, which even awarded his gold medal. In 1871, E.G. Johannessene followed other captains of the Norwegian ships: F.K. The poppy around the cape of desire also passed along the eastern shore of the archipelago, and E. Carlsen reached 77 degrees with. sh. and 60 degrees in. D. And then descended to the southern tip of the new land in the Kara Sea.
In the 1870s. On the archipelago, the permanent population appeared for the first time, and before that the island was uninhabited, although they were sometimes delayed victims wreck Seafashers or hormone-industrialists who for one or another could not have to get to the mainland before the autumn. These actions russian government He answered the increased danger of the actual Norwegian annexation of the new land, which then de facto was considered to Russian hold, although the jurisdiction of Russia over the Isles of the Western Arctic was not framed by any documents. In that historic period The Scandinavian authorities almost completely displaced Russian pomps with Novoemel crafts and even founded several of their baseline bases on the islands. According to the Arkhangelian provincial authorities, under whose authorities were the islands of the New Earth, Vaigach and a number of others, on the archipelago it was necessary to create a network of fishing becoming, settling them by themselves (nonsense), as the most adapted to life in such climatic conditions. Thus, the first noviemel becomes - small carmarkets (1877), Mastecin Ball (1894), Belushia Guba (1897) and Olginsky (1910).
Of the other historical events of the chronicle of the development of the new land, having universal importance, I note that it is here that the West Coast of the North Islands began, the world era of polar aviation began. In August, the Russian pilot Ya.I. has already become distant in 1914 Maurice Farman's Avietka firm, weighing only 450 kg, with the power of the Renault engine in 80 l / s and speed of 90 km / h, when any wind gust threatened to dump the car in the Arctic Barents Sea or on the New Earth Glacier , in the fog, "blindly", without knowledge of meteo conditions on the track, without a radio station and climate clothing, made several search flights above the land and sea. These flights are a true human feat.
They were ahead of almost ten years ahead of the next appearance of aircraft in the Arctic, when in 1923 the Swiss pilot Mittelgolzer committed successful raids over the shores of Spitsberena, and in 1924, the domestic pilot B.G. Chukhnovsky flew off for the first time on the Float Plan "Yu-20" New Earth.
All these foreign and domestic individual researchers and entire expeditions left peculiar traces on the map of the new land - the memory of themselves in the form of mass geographical names. Novozemel Archipelago - a real historical and geographical memorial, where thousands of toponyms associated with the activities of Austrian, Dutch, Russian and Norwegian expeditions are concentrated - Villema Barents, Yakova Gemuskerka and Cornelius Neiya, F. P. Rosquet, F.P. Lytka, PK Pakhtusova, A.K. Tsivols, officers under the command of K.N. Postech, A. Peterman, Yu. Payer and K. Weiprecht, many others. But the first here, apparently, they still received the "registration" ancient Pomeranian names, which were now donated by unreserved, brave fisosals of the pomexes, even before the Barents sent to the new land for the "fish tooth" (walrus), seals, walrows, golts; Here, in 1594, the official discovers of the archipelago were met in 1594 - the Dutch, driven by the triumvirate of European "captains", Branto Eysbranz, Villem Barents and the Admiral of the Fleet Cornelis. Among the Pomeranian toponyms, I will note the big and small razors of the island, the eye of the lip, the bay of small carmaculas, the lip of Machina, Cape Nikolsky nose, the lip of Sakhanyu, the lip of Stroganov, Yartseva Island, others.
Structure, sizes and geographic coordinates of the new land
Archipelago New Earth is the largest of the archipelago in the Eurasian part of the cycrupolar region of the northern hemisphere. The total area of \u200b\u200bthe new land islands is almost 83 thousand km2. Even if the archipelago is also included by the Vaigach Island, by origin and geology as a new land being organic continuation of the Ural Mountain Country, its area will increase only by 3.4 thousand km2. For comparison, I will indicate that the area of \u200b\u200bthe three other most significant archipelagments of this part of the Arctic Ocean is much less: the land of Franz Joseph is 16.1 thousand km2; Northern Earth, or Earth Emperor Nicholas II - 37.6 thousand km2; Svalbard is about 62 thousand km2. The new land is included in the list of the world's largest archipelago plants, occupying 10th place. Within the entire Arctic region of the Northern Hemisphere, the Novoemel Sushus is inferior only to the Canadian Arctic Archipelago with an area of \u200b\u200babout 1.3 million km2.
So, in fact, the new land consists of two large islands - the Northern, area of \u200b\u200b48.9 thousand km2, and the southern, with an area of \u200b\u200b33.3 thousand km2. From each other, they are separated by a narrow, width of 800 m to 3 km, the crankshaft-curved strait of the Mastecin ball. Strait so narrow, which was almost always clogged with ice impressed by the winds from the East, from the Kara Sea. Therefore, in the old days, and, interestingly, even in the 1920s, when there was a widely large mastering of the new land, in the literature and even official documents, a new land was called as a single island - the island of the New Earth.
The extreme borders of the archipelago islands: Northern Point - Cape Carlsen, 77 ° 01 "S.Sh., 67 ° 52" V.D., Although the north of it are located two groups of islands - small and large Orange (the very northern tip of the latter lies for three seconds north of Cape Karlsen); Southern Point - Cape Kuzov Nose on the island Kryova Earth - 70 ° 28 "S.Sh., 57 ° 07" V.D., Western point - Unnamed Cape on the Peninsula Guasin Earth, 71 ° 50 "S.Sh., 51 ° 27 "VD; The eastern limit of the archipelago is Cape Flissing, 76 ° 42 "S.Sh., 69 ° 02" V.D. Most high Point New Earth - Mac Maca on the North Island (1547 m at sea level), in the area of \u200b\u200bengaged in cover glaciers.
Both large islands of the archipelago are surrounded by a whole scolding of small islands, especially a lot of them along the Western, Barentsomorsky, the shore and in the south - on the border with Vaigach in the Cara Gate Strait. Such islands in the Strait of the Kara Gate, the south of the Peninsula goose land (the central part of the West Bank of the Southern Island) and the north of it, and in the Gulf of the Moller form the systems of Schochnaya Aquatorium. From the largest satellite islands, I will indicate the interruption (at the south-west shore of the South Island) and Kozova Earth (at the southern shore of the South Island).
The archipelago is washed by the water area of \u200b\u200bthe two seas: Barentsva - the most warm in the Eurasian Arctic - and Kara - one of the most ice-bearing in the Arctic. In the south, the border frontiers between them lie in the straits of the Kara Gate and the Ugra Ball, and in the north - about the longitude of the caution of desire. The central axis of the archipelago - the watershed of the two seas - shifted to the west. These are different. The Barents Sea is experiencing a pecaptive influence of the fusey branches of the Golf Stream, which rests in the Novoemel archipelago and do not penetrate the Kara Sea, which is the latter and is a kind of refrigerator on the border of the Western and Central Arctic.
Ecological and geographical features. Geology and origin
The new land archipelago is complicated mainly by the rocks of Paleozoic age, overlapped with quaternary sediments from above. In its geological history, the periods of slaughtering and relative rest were alternated. The most ancient rocks on the Cambrian age archipelago - black phyllitis, sandstones, clay shale and conglomerates with fauna trilobites. Seaside areas of sushi are covered with multi-meter strata of early-fascular covering glaciers. When the glaciers retreated, a gradual isostatic raising of the seabed began, which continues and now at a speed of about 5-6 mm per year. It is likely that modern seaside sites of Sushi were released from under the sea approximately 7600 years ago. One of the evidence of this process is characteristic of the former seabed landscape of modern territory. This is a low ridge (sobes) with shallow, but significant in the area of \u200b\u200bdepressions between them, small ones, smoothed by actions of the glacier and sea waves. absolute heights. The glacial processes and the actions of the sea waves led to the fact that solid indigenous breeds, alkalizing archipelago (granites, sandstones, shale, limestone and others), covered with a cover of loose glacier sediments with a thickness of 1.5-2.5 m. Therefore, there are found on the islands Sand-grabbed soils with boulders and the retailed by the Sea pebbles.
On the further development Natural complexes of New Earth have a significant impact of generallylanet (global) climate change processes. Such as, for example, the last period of climate warming is a holotourized climatic maximum, when the air temperature was a few degrees above the modern, the honest gap is longer, and winter is softer. In this era, plant communities have developed on the archipelago, close to the composition of modern groups of mainland subarctic tundras - more southern natural landscapes. Reducing the relief on the shores of the streams occupied sedious and cereal-dies, and extensive nizenas with saucers of small ponds borrowed hypinical moss; There were formed peculiar hypinate swamps with mass thickets of moss at the bottom and on the shores of the reservoirs. On the hypinous swamps they grew ordinary in more southern regions, mainly in the south of the Arctic and in Subarctic (as now on Vaigach Island, in Bolyzhemel and Malozhel Tundra), the thermal-loving marsh plants - for example, a sabelnik Bolotnaya, willow, blueberries, cloudberry, some laptops and Camery. Now they have been preserved on a new land in peculiar isolated habitats in the southern and partially northern islands - in refunctions (refuge). From the times of the Holocene climatic maximum, the active peat-accumulation is still continuing in the horror reductions of the relief and lakes of the archipelago, but in the ecological conditions changed since then, it is limited now only to the southern island, where the peatlands with a maximum capacity of 1.2 m are marked, for example, The lip, on the white peninsula and the southern tip of the island. In an evolutionary plan, this process leads, in the end, to the disappearance of lakes as a result of the full filling of lake bath peat.
Since the new land is located on the mainland, it is a typical shelf education. Modern relief is determined by the tectonic movement of sushi. Through the islands are characterized by end-to-end robrency valleys, embedded by large faults of sushi and having a latitudinal orientation in the overall direction. Such through valleys were discovered relatively recently, at the beginning of the 20th century, when the Russian researcher V.A. Rusanov made several cross-cutting routes across the North Island, between the lips of the Cross (on west coast) and (on Eastern). The same fault is the above-mentioned shedding of the Motokkin, having a maximum depth of 200 m.
The relief of the archipelago is predominated not elongated in some one direction, but scattered mountain arrays. In the coastal region, fjords, schkers, sea terraces, as well as many islands and straits between them. Some areas of sushi rose more intense other and now in the form of islands rise above the water, others, descended or very slowly rose, which led to the formation of many bays and straits. Sushi raises led to a young character of a modern river network with unreclaimed river valleys, thresholds, waterfalls, so-called hanging villages of the valleys. Past and modern glaciations are the causes of domination even at small altitudes of the relief of the high-lived features, where are common chairs, circus, nunatakas, moraine and glacial lakes that give the relief an alpinotype appearance. In height and formats of relief on the new land are the plains (heights up to 200 m above sea level), lowlands (heights up to 500 m), middle mountains (up to 900 m) and highlands (over 900 m).
In the most general form, the relief of each island of the archipelago looks like this. Central areas in the depths of sushi on the distance from the line of shores from several to two tens of kilometers are occupied by region with heights of more than 200 m - from lowland to highlighted, including glaciers, part of which breaks directly into the surrounding archipelago sea waters. According to the periphery, this area is protected by seaside plains, whose languages \u200b\u200baccording to river valleys and large slides are penetrated into the depths of the sublime part, sometimes 20-30 km, and in the southern and middle areas of the southern island it even takes solid all the space - "from the sea to the sea", From the line of the Barentsevo coast to the car of Kara.
The coastline of the archipelago is distinguished by large slices, abundantly, especially in the West, abundantly deeply smoking the bays - typical fjords. The largest of them is the Bay of Reinek, Luba Loginova and Sakhanich's Luba, with steep clouds. In the south of the island of the coast, a typical shatter character. But the most impressive fjords are on the northern island, where in their buttous parts (vertices), the languages \u200b\u200bof output glaciers are broken into the water.
Particularly interesting natural objects are cooking glaciers And in general, the phenomenon of glaciation. The new land is distinguished by intense glaciation, due to the specificity of the climate in the area of \u200b\u200bthe Arctic. It created all the conditions for the formation and existence of cover glaciers - a relatively large amount of solid precipitation, low average annual air temperatures, cold summer and a large albedo covered with snow and ice surface. Most of the northern island (for about 340 km, starting from the very north of the archipelago, and the greatest width of up to 70 km on latitudes between 75 ° and 76 ° C.Sh.) and the Syatkin Ball adjacent to the South Islands South Islands are located in the area , semi-cutting and mountain glaciation. The field of glaciation on the archipelago is more than 24 thousand km2. The archipelago is the only area of \u200b\u200bRussia, where all existing forms of glaciation are presented - cover, mesh, mining and valley, as well as a glacial shield. North of 75 ° C.Sh. There is the largest area of \u200b\u200ba solid glacial shield, where the thickness of the ice reaches 250-300 m. The ice cover here consists of their two parts - the actual Novoemel glacial shield with heights of up to 1000 m, located north of the Admiralty Peninsula to 66 ° E., and North Glacial hats with heights of 550-600 m, separated from the main ice shield of the Valley of St. Anne.
Along with the general tendency of the retreat of glaciers, which can be traced at least for the last four hundred and more years (their initial state was recorded in 1594-1597. Expeditions V. Barents), there are advancing glaciers on the new land. This, for example, Glaciers Petersen and Shokalsky. The archipelago meet both active and low-modular glaciers. From the observations on the Schocalsky glacier in the middle part, the speed of ice movement was determined - 100-150 m per year. IN central parts glacial cover, at altitudes 700 m or more, i.e. In the food area, the speed of movement of glaciers decreases to 10-20 m per year. The greatest values \u200b\u200bof the velocities of the movement of glaciers are marked on the passes through the barriers, where it comes to 300-600 m per year. Interestingly, in winter, the speed of movement of glaciers is reduced by about twice as compared to summer.
Being on a new land, it is interesting to observe such a phenomenon as the formation of icebergs. They are formed in the climbing areas of glacial languages \u200b\u200bdescending into the sea. A particularly picturesque picture represent the narrow fjords, in the tops of which constantly with a huge noise, similar to the gaps of powerful shells or bombs, under pressure from the weight of the ice romance of the Gletcher, the multi-meter mountains of greenish ice, raising small "tsunami". From here throughout the entire length of the bay, like flocks of white mysterious birds of bizarre form, "float" in the open sea Newly formed icebergs.
Climate. Archipelago is located in two climatic belts - Arctic and subarctic. On the new earth would be even much colder if not warm waters Golfustrum, the Nordskap branch of which, even if almost cooled, but still comes to the archipelago. She rests on his western, the Barents-Sea coast, where winter temperatures can be 5 or more degrees higher than on the eastern, kara.
The characteristic features of the climate of the Novoemel archipelago are the large humidity of the air, almost constantly the gloomy sky (the number of clear days per year does not exceed 29), frequent and fairly significant precipitation (from 190 mm at the cape of desire at the very northern point of the archipelago to 300 mm at Cape the output; The amount of precipitation in glaciers reaches 600 mm per year), fog and constant strong winds, accompanied by snowstorms, why and often new land is called the "country of winds".
In the Arctic belt is northern part The archipelago is the island of the northern and nearby small islands, the rest of the new land lies in the subarctic belt. In the northern part of the archipelago, the average temperatures of the coldest month fluctuate from -15 to -20 ° C on the west coast, and on the eastern-20 to -30 ° C. The average temperatures of the warmer month on the coast reach + 5 ° C, and at sea -0 - + 5 ° C. For the southern part of the new Earth, the average January temperature is -5 °, -10 ° C - in the west and -10 °, -25 ° C - in the east. July temperatures reach + 10 ° C on land and + 5 ° C at sea.
An extraordinary phenomenon of the local climate, especially on the island of North, is the famous Novoemel Bohr. It is most often observed in winter, but maybe in the summer. It was in such a summer bor that I had to get in August 1995 while staying on the shore of Ivanov's bay in the north-west of the North Island. During the bords, the wind for a few hours accelerates to the speed of hurricane (up to 30 m / s, with gusts up to 60 m / s). This wind stream as if the "courier" train fell suddenly with a heated part of glaciers down, to the sea; His stream carries small stones, pebbles and sand, causing an unusual phenomenon - in suddenly, the twilight of the twilight from the coast, the low waves with white crests are running to the plains of the twilight from the shore in the direction of the mourn. Bora can last 4-7 days. Usually, after Bora, the weather changes dramatically, as after a major thunderstorm in the middle lane of Russia.
Rivers and lakes. As it is not surprising, but even in the Arctic, on the new land, many rivers and lakes, although they are unevenly distributed over the archipelago. For example, on the island of the North, the most severe in natural conditions, rivers a little. This is the consequence climatic featuresand the presence of glaciation on land. Rivers of the island of northern short, not more than 10-15 km long. The largest of them are goose, Mityushiha, commercial and southern cross. A completely different picture is observed on the island of South, where the river network is more developed. The rivers are extended, several tens of kilometers long; Among the largest of them are the rivers Abrosimov, Savina, Sakhanin, Unnamed, Rogachev, Pooh.
The watershed between the rivers flowing into the Barents and Kara Sea, is expressed quite well. On the Southern Island It takes place along the rosters of the inland areas and shifted to the east, as a result of which the Waterborum Barents of the Barents Sea occupies 2/3 of its square on this island. For most rivers, non-unrecorded valleys are characterized by the journey of boulders, valleys of valleys with extended speech-thresholds, stony flocks and waterfalls. All of them have snow-glacial food. The temperature of the water in rivers in the summer period is cold - it exceeds 8-10 ° C; In glacial streams and rivers, it is also lower - no more than 0.1-0.2 - 1.5 ° C.
There is on the new land and the lake, which is generally uncharacteristic for similar high-tech islands, where these geographical objects It is rather an exception than the rule, and this circumstance will noticeably allocate the Novoemel archipelago among its Eurasian "fellow". Here the lakes are common and meet from the southernmost limits to the northern; There are even one of the most extreme points - at the cape of desire, where for a long time was supplier fresh water To supply it the polar station of the same name.
As in the internal, dedicated to the perigrist region (directly at the foot of the glaciers), and in the coastal areas of both islands of the archipelago there are many lakes from a few hundred meters to 1.5-3 km. The tundra plains of the southern island are characterized by a special wealth of standing reservoirs, where the lakes and 2nd lacks, Pakhtusov, Kashin, Sakharov, Zyssa, Ice and Gusino are the largest on the plaza. The archipelago knows several types of lakes: thermocartes (zonal for the distribution area of \u200b\u200bpermafrost), they can only be found on the southern island - on peatlands in the mushroom lip and in the southern part of the archipelago; Real coastal, formed when raising the coastal region and often located at altitudes up to 100-150 m above sea level; Ice Valleys and Mountains. Most water reservoirs are flowing. The depths of the lakes are very different. For example, thermokars and lying on the seaside plains in the southern polar deserts of the North Island shallow - 0.9-2.0 m deep. But on the archipelago a lot of lakes, minor in the area, but, but deep-water, as, for example, found by the author on the east coast of the Southern Island on the shore of Abrosimov's bay (6-10 m deep at the area of \u200b\u200bthe aqueous mirror of no more than 1 hectare). The most deep among the archipelago lakes described and the lakes studied are Lakes Derigina (maximum depth of 90 m) and lack (74 m). All small lakes in a depth of 2 m in winter are frozen to the bottom, and deep lakes in winter are covered with ice layer almost two meters. Such deep lakes differ from all sorts of small presence in the first of them populations of the Arctic Goltz.
Flora and vegetation (natural zones). Unlike all other high-tech archipelago of the circumpolar region, the New Earth lies in two natural zones. A little more than a third of the archipelago (southern island of about 72 ° C.Sh.) is occupied by the Arctic tundra, and the coastal sites there are equible options of the tundrov-arctic vegetation. And in internal, more elevated,
landscapes - mining and arctic tundra. In the seaside part of the island of southern plain versions of the Arctic TundR, the Masian Ball (approximately 73 ° S.Sh.) go, although its mountain area is already occupied by the mining and arctic variants of polar deserts.
The north of the main dividing line of the Islands of the Archipelago - Mushekin of the Bowl, the nature of the vegetation is radically changing. Even on the coast, there are practically no plain sites (they are represented by small fragments) and the lowlands dominate. Therefore, mountain tundra groups go to the very sea, and in the central, the most sublime, part of the mining and arctic versions of polar deserts are common, at all points also go directly to the sea.
The last sections of the mountain variants of the Arctic TundR go to the coastal area of \u200b\u200bthe North Island about about the latitude of Admiralty Peninsula (up to 75 ° C.Sh.), and the north the kingdom of polar deserts, represented by its southern option begins. In this part of the archipelago, where, along the periphery of the North Island, the land rose from the sea or freed from retreating glaciers relatively recently, the primary landscapes with similar to lunar landscapes and primitive, few structured soils are common in evolutionary terms. The polar deserts of a narrow strip (with a maximum width of no more than 2-6 km) go along the edge of the sea to the highest point of the archipelago, encircling it from the Barentian and Kara sides. The inner part of the island is the area of \u200b\u200blifeless covering glaciers.
The main feature of the natural zones of the archipelago is a significant variety of vegetation (more than 240 types of ground flora), which is associated with the extended latitudinal extension of the new land and the proximity of it to the mainland land. And the Arctic tundra, and the polar deserts by the variety of flora differ significantly from the same natural regions In other areas of the Arctic. This is due to the presence of a wide variety of habitat on the islands and microscone refugiii (shelters), predetermined during periods of climatic shift on Earth (climbing and warming of climate) Unhindered migration and penetration of thermal-loving plants, respectively, from the south, from the mainland tundras through the island of Vaigach, north ( During climate warming) or, on the contrary, promotion and lowering far to the south of cold-tech plants of the North (from the polar deserts and their analogues) to the south, fixing such migrants as part of plant complexes.
Certificates are more comfortable for the biota conditions on the high-forearctic islands in the history of this region of the Earth, the presence of hydrophilic species in the composition of the vegetation. For those of them, such as the RDEST comb, several types of Dupponia and FPPSION, ARTICHOFILE Yellow, Pallas Buttercipions, Hyperborean and Others, Tails Lancing and Ordinary, Sabelnik Bolotnaya, Mulberry Neuctating, Bolotnaya Slotchnik, New Earth - the only one among high-tech archipelago The area where these aquatic and voluminous plants are known, which gives the entire archipelago an exotic appearance. In the researcher, it turned out near the reservoirs suddenly the impression is that he is on the mainland, a few degrees in the latitude of south, in a different natural geographic area. Almost like Jules Verne in his "Captain Grand Captain" or Arthur Conan Doyle among expedition participants in " lost World" For part of such plants, Novoemel habitat is the most northern of now known in Europe.
Heat-loving relics, witnesses more favorable than modern conditions on the islands, on the archipelago are "land" cloudberry, blueberries, two types of ferns Cystopteris, a herub round-hearted, Ivan-tea is long-wave and broad-sized, Castile Lapland, dwarf birch, forgetcoming marsh, a number of other plants . These species have been preserved in micro-hobs - in shielding rains protected from strong northern winds, in the crevices of rocks, on the slopes of the southern exposition, where heated soils and stones create favorable temperature conditions, determine the flowering of plants and aging seeds, which is a prerequisite for existence in the time of their populations.
Exotic species have landscapes in the strip of southern versions of polar deserts. These are almost solid arrays of alert, boulders, primary, unstructured soils released from under the packing glaciers, or washed seasy waves deposit. As in the real desert of the roast belt of the Earth, there is no continuous cover from vascular plants, and even such primitive plant forms, like mosses and lichens, form small clusters only in hollows, in winds protected from wind, etc. Ecotopes. Primitive, almost completely devoid of vegetation The primary landscapes are experiencing a real moisture deficit; Lakes and rivers here are rather an exception than the rule. Separate vascular plants, their captory curtains together with moss and lichens are marked in very exotic loci, again the same deserts of hot south. The deficiency of organic and moisture, common for the southern and northern desert, causes the type of vegetation for such landscapes - these are peculiar oasis, sometimes there are squares of several tens of square centimeters or even the size of a tea saucer formed in the seaside terrace on emissions of dead marine animals ( whales, coushlots, walrles, seals) or fin. Such organic accumulations, slightly immersed in the pebbles or clay soil and decayed for decades, serve first with the pier MCHAM, on the layers of which lichens are settled, and then - vascular (higher, or flowering) plants. Another potential ecotope for the settlement of plants is narrow, literally a few centimeters width, a strip of shore along large and small streams, rivers and lakes. So harsh conditions of existence of plants here have also caused the poverty of flora of flowering plants, which marked just over 50 species (in 4 more than more than in the tundra adjacent to the arctic deserts). The settlement of polar-desert landscapes comes from the south, from the area of \u200b\u200bthe Arctic TundR. The first barrier on the path of such migrants is the transition region between these two natural zones. It comes to it more than 80 species, but, as can be seen, here and settles, stopping its spread to the north, almost about a third of migrants.
Fauna. As with any northern island, there are very few real land animals on the archipelago. On the new land now there are only four - sands, the Novoemel subspecies of the wild reindeer, hoofed and Siberian (Ob) lemming. In the historical past (before the beginning - the end of the XIX century), when there were many fishing animals on the archipelago and their intensive mining was carried out, there were still a wolf and a fox. Mammals of the greatest diversity reaches sea views.
Coastal sites of sushi and marine waters, like a magnet, attract the walker of the Atlantic, white bear, seals (sea hare, ringed nerve, lysun, or a Greenland seal). Narnal, Beluha and Greenland whale are ordinary from the shore. At the end of the 20th century, when a decrease in number has begun everywhere in the Arctic marine mammals, the water area and the land of the archipelago remained the only region where there is a relatively large number of a walrus, and in the north of the Northern Island - from the bay of the Russian harbor to the Ice Harbor - the author found several large fantasties of this gigid with a total number of several hundred, and possibly - and thousand heads. Some of these fantasies, an example, on large Orange Islands, are known since their discovery in 1594 by the expedition of the Dutch merchants.
In addition to amazing colonial seabirds, the new land is the nesting area of \u200b\u200bthe Gaga of ordinary, northern colonial marine duck, the bustle of the barrel, an exotic species, arranging colonies, like seagulls, on the cornices. From another "flying" exotic, there are graceful swans - a mannik, clikun, white, piskulka, tundra, several types of centers (black and red blood).
Of course, the new land is not only the habitat of large animals, mammals and birds. In the soil and on its surfaces, primitive animals live - insects (mosquitoes, midges, rare types of butterflies and beetles), worms, as well as nematodes living in lakes, provicrats, lower crustaceans. These animals are located at the very basis of the trophic pyramids of soil and water ecosystems, making the feed base with small species of birds and inhabiting in island rivers and lakes.
So the most extensive archipelago in the Eurasian Arctic looks like a new land.
"Geography for schoolchildren." - 2015. - Number 3 . - P. 3-14.
The new land archipelago is located in the Arctic Ocean between Kara and. It consists of two islands - northern and southern, - separated by the sheds of the Motokkin ball. North Island more than half is covered with glaciers.
History opening
Orange Islands - the northernmost in the archipelago - were opened in 1594 by the Expedition of the Barents, and their name was received in honor of the Dutch prince Moritz Orange. On the islands there is a major frying fry.
New Earth during the Great geographic discoveries There was a place for wintering expeditions, failing to break through the ice fields.
Back in the XII-XV centuries. In the new land there were temporary settlements of Pomorov, who were moved to the archipelago for fishing, hunting. They took with them everything you need to wintering on the islands - from wood to the building material for the His. Over time, the islands formed a peculiar culture of Pomeranian hunters.
Opening of a new land by Europeans in the XVI century. It was associated with the search for the northeastern sea route to India as an alternative to southern routes controlled by Spain and Portugal. The path was very difficult, the ice was blocked for the new land, so many seafarers had to winter in the harsh conditions of the archipelago; There were those who were never destined to return home.
One of the expeditions to the northeast passage was headed by the navigator Villem Barents, who went on the road in the summer of 1594. The first attempt to find a trading route was unsuccessful, and in 1596 a new expedition was equipped. During the next grueling journey, the team was forced to be overreed on the new land, since the Mercury ship turned out to be ice in the Bay of the Ice Harbor on the northeastern tip of the North Island as part of the archipelago. Only on June 14, 1957, the Barents team managed to continue the path, but the northwester himself died in the northwestern tip of the archipelago.
Later, already in 1608, the English navigator Henry Hudson visited the new land, which also tried to find the northeast passage. In the middle of the XVII century. With similar goals of the new land, the ships of the Danish expedition were reached.
At the same time, Russian expeditions began to be sent to the new land, as the Russian Empire was interested in exploration of new sources of silver and copper ore. However, at first they all ended the death of most of their participants. One of the first successful travels to the archipelago was performed by Savva Hoshkin in 1760-1761: Then he was able to overcome the way along the east coast of the New Earth.
The traveler, who posted the beginning of the scientific research of the new land, became Fedor Minks (mind. 1771). On July 10, 1768, he went with his team from Arkhangelsk to the new land and achieved a month later. Here I concerned about the search for mineral deposits, meteorological and geodesic studies.
In addition, he was an inventory of the Syatkin Ball Strait.
Until the XIX century The archipelago remained uninhabited, it was used as a transshipment point and a place for fishing and hunting. However, to minimize the risks of seizing low-underground lands, by the end of the century began the gradual population of the islands, the truth, mostly by the families of the Nenets.
At the beginning of the XX century. There were still many white spots on the map of the new land, so research expeditions constantly worked on the archipelago islands. In particular, the Novoemel Expedition of 1911 is known, as a result of which old abandoned Pomoros settlements were discovered.
Nuclear polygon
On the new land in Soviet times, a nuclear landfill was opened, and since then access to the archipelago is limited.
Currently, the new land is a closed administrative-territorial education as part of the Arkhangelsk region. In order to visit the archipelago, a special pass is required. This practice has been preserved since Soviet times, when the villages on the new land were closed for security reasons and were not known about their existence.
On September 17, 1954, the Soviet nuclear landfill was opened on the new land, which included three sites: "Black Lip", "Dry Nose" and "Motokkin Ball" (underground tests were held on the latter). Almost all the Nenets population was expelled from the archipelago, military and specialists who worked at the landfill were posted in the villages.
After in August 1963, the USSR and the United States signed an agreement on banning nuclear tests in the atmosphere, under water and in space, on the "Black Guba" sites and the "dry nose" experiments were discontinued. However, underground explosions in the "Motokin Shara" area were carried out until 1990.
Population
The main settlement of the archipelago - Belushya Guba - was founded in 1897 with the opening of a nuclear landfill in its history, a completely new page was opened, since he was appointed administrative center of this experimental complex. Nowadays, the village retains its status, as the polygon continues to operate. It holds experiments, including to ensure safe storage of nuclear weapons. In addition, the villager is located in the village.
However, the legacy of the Cold War is not limited to the nuclear landfill. In some bays of the new land there are burials of nuclear waste. In order to avoid leakage of hazardous substances, they are constantly monitored by both Russian services and European specialists.
The second most important and population point is the Point of New Earth - the village of Rogachevo on the peninsula of the goose land. On the archipelago there are other villages, but there are no permanent population. Among them - the village of Mutokkin The ball, which has a seasonal commercial value.
Nature
New Earth - the region of harsh nature. More than half of the territory of the archipelago is covered with glaciers, mostly it is a covert, and not a mountain glaciation.
On the new earth reigns natural for Arctic lands natural world With the diversity of species of birds and fish. First of all, the archipelago is famous for very large bird bazaars: here you can see the chaps, Kair, deadlock. On the shore of Lake Gusin on the peninsula, goose land, very rich in fish, a lot of geese is going to the molting period.
The archipelago preserved relatively thermal-loving plants, usually not found in conditions of such a harsh climate. Among them are cloudberry, blueberries, lingonberry, some kinds of sorrel, Ivan tea and other plants. In addition, there are vote plants on the islands, including several types of flames, clover. Seeds fell into local ground with expeditions, commercial ships.
A man on a new earth is constantly in contact with wildlife. A greater threat to the local population represents white bears, which with the onset of cold weather in search of food are sent to the villages. There are often cases of attacking these predators on people.
general information
Archipelago in the Arctic Ocean.Location: between the Barents and Kara Seas.
Administrative belonging: Russian Federation.
Administrative Center for New Earth: Belushye lip - 2308 people. (2015).
Status: Closed administrative and territorial education.
Russian language.
Ethnic composition: Russian.
Religion: Orthodoxy
Numbers
Area: 83 000 km 2.Population: 2429 people. (2010).
The highest point: 1547 m.
Length: length - 925 km, width - from 32 to 144 km.
Climate and weather
Arctic.The duration of the polar day: 90 days.
Polar Night Duration: 70 days.
average temperature January: -14.2 ° С.
The average temperature of July: + 6.9 ° C.
The average annual amount of precipitation: 419.3 mm.
Economy
Fishing, hunting.sights
Cult
It is assumed that the members of the Barents team became one of the first Europeans who saw the White Bear.
On October 30, 1961, on the nuclear polygon "Dry nose" in the south-west of the island of the North, the test of the most powerful explosive device passed in the entire history of mankind - thermonuclear aviation "tsar-bomb".
Cape of desire received its name for a curious reason: on the Barents map he was marked as desired, however, because of the inaccuracies in the translation of the Russian-speaking tradition, the cape of desire was called.
And Meridians 51 ° 30` and 69 ° 0` Oriental longitude from Greenwich. This land belongs to the Arkhangelsk region. Undoubtedly, it is counted by scientists to the islands of mainland.
The two main islands are separated by a narrow, winding strait of the Motokkin Ball. From a number of small islands, the island is the island of Mezar. New Earth serves as the Western border. From the south it is washed by the waters of the Cara Gate Strait, separating it from the island. From the West and the North-West, it is washes by the Murmansk and Ice Ocean. Under these limits, two islands are an arc, weakly curved and directed by convexity to the West. Since the northern part of the new land is far from being not yet surveyed, and even the position of its northern tip cannot be finally established, then the total length and area are still not possible to be given. Its length is about 1000 km. The greatest width is no more than 130 km. The area is approximately 80025 square kilometers. Of this number, South Island accounts for 35988 square kilometers, and north 44037 square kilometers. Mebeller - 282 square kilometers. All other about 290 square kilometers.
The length of the coastline of the new land is about 4,400 kilometers. The southernmost point - Cape Kosov nose on the island of Kryov Earth, separated from the new land by the Strait of Nikolsky Ball. From this point to the West there is an ocean coast, and to the east of the sea. The ocean coast is distinguished by the large richness of the shores that make a huge number of bays, peninsulas and islands here. SAMI south part The shore is cut into smaller bays. The first significant bay is the Sakhaniha lip (between 55 - 56 ° East longitude). One of the big new land of the Sakhaniha lip is falling into the Strait. Next to the West is the strait of the lip of black, walking far inside the island by 30 kilometers. The Western and North-West direction of the coast remains to the Black Cape, starting from here, the coast turns straight to the north, and then to the northwest. It forms a black and southern goose bay between capes. He has rugged shores. Here is the largest of the mains of the New Earth - Mezersky. It is separated from the shore of the new land to the Costin Ball, which flows one of the most significant rivers of New Earth. The length of the river is 80 kilometers. To the north of the Bestracial Island there are two large bays: Rogachev and Belushye Lip.
Starting from the southern goose nose Cape, the coastline goes almost in meridian, without forming any significant bays to the cape itself Northern goose nose. This part of the coast of 100 kilometers long constitutes the most western part of the new land. She is called goose land. Further to the north, between Cape is a goose nose and a razor nose, there is a bay of the Molana, in turn, cut off by many coastal deepends, which form good parking for ships together with the places lying near the islands. Here in the Gulf of Small Karmakul there has been a long time, where the winter and summer lives several families of Samoyedov. In the north, the Moller Bay ends deeply by the Bay of Pukhov, to the top of which the Pooh river flows. Next proceeds by the Ravorinskaya River. To the north of Cape, the browzin lie two big bays: South - Guba Unnamed and North - Mushroom's lip, split high with a mountain of primary. Next to the entrance to the Mushekin Bohr Shore is smooth and rocky. The entrance to the Mushekin ball represents some difficulty, as it can be easily taken for it lying a little north of the lip of silver. However, there are now signs that facilitate entry into this bay.
Following the western coast further to the north, we meet the lip of silver, surrounded by high mountains. Next are the lips of Mityushiha and Wolf. They are in deep excavation between the shore of the new land and Cape dry nose. From the dry nose to another outstanding place - the Admiralty Peninsula - the coast of the new land is again cut by the bays. The greatest of them, starting with the south, the lip of the Cross with several islands. Two sulmenhev bays are included here - North and South - and Machine's lip. There are many bays from the Admiralty peninsula to the islands of Gorbov. There are several islands: pancratyev, Wilhelm, Cross and others.
Next, the shore gradually evade the east - to Cape Nassau. The east coast does not have any amount of deep bays and in the sea of \u200b\u200bthe Peninsula, as West. Starting from the south from Kryov Nosa, the coast worst north. Here is the extreme southeastern part of the new land, Cape Menshikov. From here, the bank of the new land gradually retreats to the West, almost without bays to Abrosimov Bay, lying a little south of 72 ° parallels of northern latitude. The Abrosimov River flows into it. From the bay of Abrosimova, the New Earth coast takes the direction of Northern and North.-East. Here it becomes more rugged to the Mushekina of the ball. From here to the north the coastline becomes more rugged and forms quite significant bays, of which the greatest: Chekin, noticed, bearish. To the north of which is the Phashtusov Phakhtusov Phakhtusov peninsula (74 ° 25` North latitude). Next, the Pakhtusov was discovered a cape a distance, lying a little south of 75 ° northern latitude. Where to Cape Middendorf, the shore is almost unknown. Behind him, the Gulf of Ice Harbor is in 1598, where the Dutchman Barents was wintering. Next, the coast of the new land rises directly along the North Meridian to the cape. The new land was first discovered by Novgorod, probably in the XI century. But the first written data about it is found in the publication of the glytite: "The Principal Navigations, Voyages and Discoveries of the English Nation" (London, 1859). It describes the first journey of the British, under the authorities of the Villaubi, east of Nord Cap, to search for northeast passage to
The time of the name New Earth is not just known. It is possible that it was formed as a tracing with Nenets eating "New Earth". If so, then the name could occur at the very first visits to the Russians of the Russians in the XI-XII centuries. The use of the name New Earth at the end of the 15th century is fixed by foreign sources.
Pomor also consumed the name of the uterus, the meaning of which remains incomprehensible. Often understand him as "cormalitsa, rich Earth».
And the land there is really rich, but not by plants, but animals that hunter-fishermen were mined. Here, for example, as an artist A. Boris about the wealth of the Arctic at the end of the 18th century, having visited the Ugra Ball and Vaigach:
"Wow, as well as it would be possible to live here in rich areas of the edges! In our places (Vologda province), see how the man works all year round days a day, and only barely with all its modesty, can feed yourself and family. Not here! Sometimes, sometimes one week is enough to provide yourself for a whole year, if the merchants were not exploited so in Samoedov, if at least someone could save and manage this rich heritage ... "
Based on the Pomeranian Matter (Compass), the name is associated with the need to use a compass for navigating a new land. But, as V. I. Nemirovich-Danchenko wrote - "Svensk in his description of the new land, says that the name of the Strait of the Motokkin The ball happened from the Word - the Matchie (small compass). This is not true: Mushekin The ball is called Syotkirin, unlike other small noviemel balls, as he crosses the whole uterus, that is, the Material Earth of this archipelago. "
At Finnish, Karelian, Vepsky Matka - "Path, Road", on the Estonian MATK "Travel, Watch". The term is widely represented in the toponymy of the north (cf. uterom, Matkosero, Irdomatka, etc.), he was mastered by pomeps, and perhaps it is connected with the name of the uterus.
New Earth is located on the border of the two seas. In the West, it is washed by the Barents Sea, and in the East - Kara.
The archipelago consists of two big Islands and sets of small. In general, it can be said that the new earth is two islands: the southern and northern, separated by the narrow strap of the Mastecin ball.
The distance from the northernmost point of the New Earth (caution of desire) to the North Pole is only about one and a half thousand kilometers.
Cape Flissing North Island is the easternmost point of Europe.
The new land belongs to the Arkhangelsk region, as well as the other, adjacent to it the Arctic Archipelago, is the land of Franz Joseph. That is, the inhabitants of the Arkhangelsk region, having visited the new land, in fact they will not even leave their subject, despite the fact that from Arkhangelsk to the new land in a straight line - about 900 kilometers, almost as much as in Moscow, Estonia or Norway.
The Barents Sea, in which the Russian Pomarians have already walked until Named in honor of him. This name is saved to this day, despite the fact that in Russia this sea in the old days was called North, Siversky, Moscow, Russian, Arctic, Pechora and most often Murmansk.
Something about geology and climate of the archipelago
The new land in the West is washed with a relatively warm Barents sea (compared to Karo), and due to this, the weather can be quite warm there, and even, oddly enough, sometimes warmly than on the coast. The weather forecast on the new land is now (in the White Lip), as well as for comparison on the coast (in Amderma):
It is very interesting and noteworthy so-called "Novozemel Bora" is a strong cold gusty local wind, giving up to 35-40 m / s, and sometimes 40-55 m / s! Such winds off the coast often reach the strength of the hurricane and weaken with the removal from the shores.
The word Bora (Bora, βορέας, Borea) translates as a cold northern wind.
There is a boron in the case when the flow of cold air meets the hill in its path; Overcoming the obstacle, boron with a huge force falls on the coast. Vertical Bow Dimensions - a few hundred meters. Affects, as a rule, small areas where low mountains Directly borders with the sea.
The Novoemel boron is due to the presence of a mountain range stretched from the south to the north along the island. Therefore, it is celebrated on the western and east coasts of the southern island. The characteristic signs of "bors" on the west coast is a strong impusty and very cold wind, northeastern or southeast directions. On the east coast - the winds of the Western or North-West direction.
The greatest repeatability of Novoemel Bow is celebrated in November - April with a duration of not rare 10 days or more. During the bonds, all visible air filled with thick snow and reminds smoking smoke. Visibility in these cases often comes to its complete absence - 0 meters. Such storms are dangerous for people and techniques, they require foreigners and caution from residents in case of extreme necessity.
The Novoemel Ridge has an impact not only in the direction, but also on the speed of crossing its wind. The mountain range helps to increase wind speed on the leeward side. With the eastern wind on the windward side, air accumulation occurs, which when the ridge is turned through the ridge, leads to air collaps, accompanied by a strong impaired wind, the speed of which reaches 35-40 m / s, and sometimes 40-45 m / s (in the village of North 45-55 m / s).
New land in many places covered with "barns". If I am not mistaken - it is a slate and a writer (from Greek. Phýllon - leaf) - a metamorphic rock, which in structure and composition is a transitional between clay and mica shale. In general, almost everywhere in the south of the NC, where we visited the earth here. That is why the running dogs were constantly wounded their paws.
Previously, when Europeans had boots with a leather sole, they constantly risked to exist their shoes. On this topic there is a story told by Stepan Pisakhov in his diary: "In the first days I am going to go away from becoming. I saw Malania, slept, hurried, caught up. - Where are you going? - on the Chum-Mountain. I looked at Malania on my legs - I was in shoes - back how to go? Will you pump yourself? - Malania explained that on sharp stones the boots would soon be bored. - I'll bring Pima to you. Waited.
Malania brought new pimes from the nerve with a sole of a marine hare. - Dress. In these pimes and the pebbles are good, and water can be walking. And how much pima cost? - one and a half rubles. It seemed to me cheap. Surprise resulted in a question: - Both? Malania laughed long laugh, even sat on the ground. Hands up with his hands, swinging. And through the laughter said - no, one pim! One you dress, one pim, I'm dealt. You step in foot, and I shake down. So let's go. Malania laughed and told the ancient Nenets fairy tale about people with one foot, which can only go hugging - there are loved by each other. There is no malice. They do not deceive there, - graduated from Malania and silent, thought, stood in the distance told the fairy tale. Long silent Malanya. The dogs calmed down, curled the balls, sleep. Only the ears of dogs shudder at each new sound. "
Modern life on new land
First of all, the new land in many are associated with a nuclear landfill and the tesigns of a hydrogen bomb powerful in the history of humanity - a 58 megaton "Tsar Bomb". Therefore, there is a widespread myth, as if, after nuclear tests on a new land, it is impossible to live due to radiation. In fact, everything, to put it mildly, not at all.
On the new land there is for the military town - Belushi Lip and Rogachevo, as well as the village of North (without a permanent population). In Rogachevo is a military airfield - Amderma-2.
There is also a base of underground tests, mountain and construction and installation work. The new land found Pavlovskoye, northern and transferred ore field with deposits of polymetallic ores. Pavlovskoye deposit is still the only field on the new Earth, according to which balance reserves and which is planned to be developed.
2149 people live in the believes, in Rogachevo - 457 people. Of these, the servicemen are 1694 people; civil - 603 people; children - 302 people. Currently also lives and personal composition In the village of North, on the weather station, small carmarines, on the helicopter venues, Panka Earth, Chirakino.
On the new land there is a home of officers, the soldier's club, the sports complex "Arctic", secondary school, kindergarten "Punch", five canteens, a military hospital. There is also a Food Store Polyus, the Metselice Promotional Store, Spolihi Vegetable Store, Fregat Cafe, Fairy Tale Cafe, North Shop. Names just mi-mi :)
The new land is considered to be a separate municipality with the status of the urban district. The administrative center is the village of Belushya Guba. The new land is but (closed administrative and territorial education). This means that there is a skip to enter the urban district.
The site of the municipality "New Earth" - http://nov-zemlya.ru.
Before the early 1990s. The very existence of settlements on the new land was a state secret. The postal address of the Belushye Luba village was "Arkhangelsk-55", the village of Rogachevo and "Points" located in the south - "Arkhangelsk-56". Postal address "Points" located in the north - "Krasnoyarsk Territory, Dickson Island-2". Now this information is declassified.
Also on the new land there is a meteorological station of small carmarkets. And in the north of the new land (cape of desire) is a reference point National Park "Russian Arctic", where his staff live in the summer period.
How to get to new land
Flight planes fly to new land. From November 5, 2015, Aviastar Petersburg performs passenger and cargo flights along the route Arkhangelsk (Talagi) - Amderma-2 - Arkhangelsk (Talagi) on the An-24 and An-26 aircraft.
On the purchase of tickets, booking tickets, date and time departing for flights regular civil aviation On new land, you can contact representatives of Aviastar Petersburg LLC on working days from 9.30 to 19.00.
Representative of Aviastar Tel +7 812 777 06 58, Moscow Highway, 25, Corpus 1, Liter B. Representative in Arkhangelsk Tel. 8 921 488 00 44. Representative in P. Belushia Lip Tel. 8 911 597 69 08.
Also before the new land can be reached by sea - by boat. Personally, we visited this way.
History of New Earth
It is believed that the new land was opened by Russians already in 12-15th centuries. The first written evidence of the stay and commercial activity of Russians on the archipelago refers to the 16th century and belong to foreigners. The undisputed material evidence of the long-time stay of Russians on the archipelago was recorded in 1594 and 1596-1597. In the diaries of De Fera - a member of the Dutch expeditions under the leadership of Villem Barents.
The first coming to the new land of Europeans here has already developed unique spiritual and commercial traditions of Russian pomps. New Earth was attended by commercials seasonally for mining there of marine beast (walrus, seals, polar bears), fur beast, birds, as well as the collection of eggs and fishing. The hunters mined a walrous fangs, sands, bearish, walrus, seals and deer skins, walrus, seal, belly and bear "fat" (burst), Omul and Goltsi, geese and other birds, as well as the Gagachi Pooh.
Pomorov had fishing horses on the new earth, but they were not solved to stay there. And not so much due to the harsh climate, as because of the terrible polar disease - Qingi.
Industrialists for the construction of the Lord brought the forest themselves, brick. Housing housing with firewood, bringing with them on the vessel. According to polls conducted among industrialists in 1819, "no natural residents have not been heard from the beginning of centuries", i.e. Any indigenous inhabitants of the new Earth are unknown.
Opening of a new land by foreign seafarers
Due to the fact that Spain and Portugal dominated the southern sea routes, in the 16th century, the English navigators were forced to look for the northeast passage to the countries of the East (in particular, to India). So they fell to the new land.
First unsuccessful expedition:
In 1533, X. Willoughubi came out of England and, apparently, reached the southern coast of the New Earth. Turning back, the two expeditions ships were forced to zoomed at the mouth of the Warcin River on East Murman. Next year, Pomra accidentally stumbled upon these ships with corpses of 63 English participants in wintering.
The following unfinished expeditions, but without victims:
In 1556, the English vessel under the team of S. Kero reached the shores of the new land, where he met the team of Russian lives. The cluster of ice in the Strait of the Ugra Ball forced an expedition to return to England. In 1580, the English expedition of A.P. Jekjeman reached the new land, but solid ice in the Kara Sea also made them sail to their homeland.
Expeditions with victims, but also achieved goals:
In 1594, 1595 and 1596, three trade maritime expeditions to India and China were headed from Holland to Northeast Pass. One of the leaders of all three expeditions was dutch navigator Villem Barents. In 1594, he passed along the north-west coast of the new land and reached her northern tip. On the way, the Dutch repeatedly met material evidence of Russian stay on the new land.
On August 26, 1596, the Barents Ship was lost at the northeast coast of the Archipelago, in the Ice Harbor. The Dutch people had to be built on the shore housing from the fin and shipboards. During the wintering, two people of the team died. On June 14, 1597, throwing the ship, the Dutch sailed on two boats from the ice harbor. At the north-west coast of the new land, V. Barents and his servant died in the area of \u200b\u200bIvanov's bay, a little later, another member of the expedition.
The southern coast of the archipelago, in the area of \u200b\u200bthe Costin Bowl, the Dutch met two Russians and received rye bread and punched birds from them. On boats, the survivors of 12 Dutch reached the cola, where they met with the second vessel of the expedition and on it on October 30, 1597 arrived in Holland.
Subsequent expeditions:
Then in New Earth in 1608 visited the English navigator.
Next, the new land until 1725-1730 was visited by Danes, the Dutch, the British and on this swimming of foreign courts to the archipelago ceased to the XIX century. The most outstanding expeditions were two Dutch expeditions V. Barents. The main merit of the Barents and De Fera is the compilation of the first map of the Western and Northern coast of the New Earth.
Study of new land by Russian
It all started with two unsuccessful expeditions.
In 1652, by the decree of the king, Alexei Mikhailovich, the expedition of novels Nelphaev for the search for silver and copper ores went to a new land. precious stones and pearls. Most of the 83 participants and Nepnev himself died during the wintering of the south of the island of the Long.
In 1671, in search of silver ore and for the construction of a wooden fortress on the archipelago, an expedition under the leadership of Ivan Neklyudova was directed to the new land. In 1672, all participants in the expedition were killed.
Finally, relative luck:
In 1760-1761 Savva Hoshkin first passed on the Lodder from the south to the north along the eastern shore of the new land, spending two years for it. One of his wintering, apparently, was built at the mouth of the Savina River. Hoshkin coiled the northern coast and along the western shore went south.
In 1766, the driver of Yakov Chirakin joined the vessel of the Arkhangelsk merchant A. Barmina from the Barents Sea to Karskaya Strait Mushekin Ball. Having learned about this, Arkhangelsk Governor A.E. Headzhan agreed with the Barmines about sending a vessel with an expedition.
In July 1768, the expedition under the head of F.F. Rossoshskova went on a three-volume coach to the western mouth of the Syatkin ball, to make a strait card and measure its depth. The tasks of the expedition included: to pass, if it is possible, through the Mushekin Ball and Kara Sea to the mouth of the Ob River and explore the possibility of opening the way from the Kara Sea to North America. From August 15, 1768, the expedition conducted promresses and research of the Mastery of the Bowl. In the eastern mouth of the Strait - the bay of seals and at Cape Woods were built two horses, where, divided into two groups, the expedition winterized. During the wintering, Yakov Chirakin died. Of the 14 people of the expedition died 7.
Returning to the western mouth of the Motokin of the ball, the expedition met a Pomeranian fishing vessel. The rotting Kochmar had to leave at the mouth of the River Chirakina and return on September 9, 1769 in Arkhangelsk on the vessel of Pomorro.
Of course, the name of Rake shares should take one of the first places in a number of outstanding Russian sailors and the Arctic researchers. He not only measured for the first time and put a semi-permount shed on the map. The chances gave the first description of the natural environment: surrounding mountains, lakes, some representatives of the plant and animal world. Moreover, he conducted regular weather observations, recorded the time of freezing and opening ice in the strait. Performing the instructions given to him, the Mounts built the first wintering in the eastern part of the shedron ball. This winterier was further used by industrialists and researchers in the archipelago.
In 1806, Chancellor N.P. Grumyantsev allocated funds for the search for silver ore on the new land. Under the leadership of the Mining official of V. Ludlov in June 1807, two mountain craftsmen and eleven members of the vessel team went to the archipelago to the archipelago. The expedition visited the island of Mezarovsky, visiting the famous Pomeranian becoming Valkovo. Looking for the islands in the Costin Ball, Ludlov discovered the gypsum deposits.
In 1821-1824. Lieutenant F.P. Lytka was headed by four expeditions at the Military Brig "New Earth". Expeditions under the leadership of Litke made an inventory of the western coast of the new land from the Caraca Gate Strait to Cape Nassau. Move further north did not give cohesive ice. For the first time a whole range of scientific observations was carried out: meteorological, geomagnetic and astronomicals.
In 1832, the complex ice conditions in the Kara gate forced the expedition to P.K. Pakhtusov to deliver a single-way uninterrupted large carbas "New Earth" to wintering at the southern shores of the archipelago, in the Kamenka Lip. For the construction of housing, the remains of Pomeranian horses and fins detected here. As soon as all the participants of the expedition moved to the rebuilt winterier, from the second decade of September began to conduct a meteorological magazine, introducing a barometer, thermometer and state of the atmosphere in it every two hours. With the end of the winter, many days hiking began with the aim of inventory and shooting the southern coast of the archipelago. The results of the expedition - the compilation of the first card of the entire east coast of the southern island of the archipelago. Thanks to its next expeditions, outstanding results were achieved. Pakhtusov described the southern coast of Motokin Bowl, east Coast Archipelago from Karian gate to Cape Far.
Further were in 1837 on the schooner "Moles" and a small yard "St. Elisha "Expedition of the Imperial Academy of Sciences under the leadership of Academician K. Baer. Commanded by the ship's ensign A.K. Centriank.
In 1838, an expedition on Schunov "New Earth" and "Spitsbergen" was sent under the head of the ensign worker A.K.Sivolki. The second schoony commanded the ensign of S.A. M. Moiseev. As a result, a number of important studies were made, a well-known domestic and Wester-European scientists have repeatedly appealed to the diverse scientific results of the expedition of the Sivolca-Moiseyev's expedition.
In subsequent years, the Pomra, continuing to lead crafts on the new land, at the request of the famous Siberian industrialist M.K. Sidorov planted in the places mentioned to them, collected samples of rocks and put the bidders. In 1870, Sidorov printed the project "On the benefits of the settlement on the new land for the development of marine and other fishers".
Fishery
The history of the creation of commercial settlements on the new land has a purely "political roots". This region has long been "Russian", but there was not a single permanent settlement on trouble here. Here the first Russian settlers in the north and their descendants, Pomra went to the fishers. But for some reason, "rusty Rusaki" believed that their Arctic paradise would always be unavailable to "Nechur", "Germans" - foreigners ("Germans", i.e. dumb, not speaking in Russian, dirro called all foreigners). And clearly mistaken.
It is known that in the XVI century, shortly after visiting the region, the Villam Barenz and his associates, Europe interested in this "the corner of the Russian Arctic". And in confirmation of this, "in 1611, a society established in Amsterdam, established a hunt for seas near Spitsbergen and the New Earth," and in 1701 the Dutch was equipped with up to 2,000 vessels to Spitsbergen and the new land "beat whales". According to the famous Siberian merchant and patron M.K. Sidorov, who spent his whole life and a state just to prove that the strength of Russia in the development of Siberia and the North, "before Peter the Great Dutch was freely fisified by whales in the Russian territory."
At the end of the 18th - the first third of the XIX century, when the north-Atlantic whale and fish stocks were already dried, and the beaches and the beaches of Jan Maya and Bear, Svalbard and other islands were lost once the usual species - hence the walruses and seals were disappeared, white bears, our Eternal competitors on the development of the North, Norwegians, turned their eyes on anyone who did not master the eastern expanses of the Barents Sea - the island of the Kolguev, Vaigach and the new land, the Ice Kara Sea, another "theounds" of the Arctic life. The main period of operation by them of Novoemel fishery covers an approximately 60-year period - since the end of the second third of the XIX century until the end of the 1920s.
Although the Norwegian industrialists appeared on Novoemel fisheries for several centuries later than Russian hunters on the marine animals and nonsense, the presence of Scandinavians in the region was very large-scale, and the nature of operation natural resources - predatory, poaching. For several years, they have mastered the entire area of \u200b\u200bRussian crafts on the Barents side of both the islands of the new land, penetrated the Kara Sea through the cape of desire, the Strait of the Ugra Ball and the Karsian Gate and the Eastern Coast of the Archipelago. Well-equipped and financially secured Norwegian industrialists on the marine animals, which have long been hunted on whales and seals in North Atlantic and Svalberena, skillfully took advantage of the experience of Arkhangelian poms.
In waters along the coast of the archipelago, the Norwegians were focused on the navigation and noticeable signs (Guria, Crosses), used as the support items, the old Russians or their remains as the support items. These becoming served for Norwegians also a signal that the crafts are somewhere nearby, as usually the Pomra built becoming both overlooking them from them. By the beginning of the XX century. They organized even a few wintering in the archipelago.
In Russian fishers, a whole branch of the Norwegian economy was quickly matured, and the small villages of the Northern region of our Scandinavian neighbor, from where commercial expeditions were equipped in the Arctic, in a matter of years they turned into prosperous cities, creating a good financial thing on the entire twentieth century.
"The development of the Norwegians in the Barents and Karsky seas, on Vaigach and Kolguev, contributed to the development of the outbound cities of Norway. So, small city Gammerfest, one of the northernmost cities in the world in the middle of the XIX century, in 1820 had no more than 100 inhabitants. After 40 years, 1750 people have lived in it. Gammerfest developed its fisheries on Svalbard and New Earth, sent 27 ships with displacement of 814 tons and 268 people crew for fishers in 1869.
Knowing the existence of the laws of "coastal law prohibiting foreigners to settle the shores of the islands without the permitting government" the Norwegians quite deftly accounted for this legal obstacle. In particular, according to the famous Arkhangelsk Pomper F.I. Voronina, 30 years old on the new earth, he was known when "the agents of Norwegian merchants, having their native colonists in the Murmansk coast, shifted their ideas not only to the island of New Earth, but also to Kalkum and Vaigach.
And so, in order to somehow defend itself from the Norwegian expansion in the Russian North, in the 1870s in the depths of the Arkhangelsk provincial administration, the plan was entitled - to create a settlement on the new land, denoting the national interest in the area of \u200b\u200bthe Arctic. Naturally, the good idea was supported in the capital. From St. Petersburg to Arkhangelsk comes "Good" to the beginning of the colonization of the Arctic Island. The beginning of the existence of the Novoemel island hunting economy should be considered the second half of the 1870s, when the first permanent settlement was laid on the archipelago of the Arkhangelsk provincial administration under state support - becoming small carmaculas.
From the very beginning of the creation on the Arctic archipelago of settlements and the state, and the provincial authorities believed that fishery would be the main occupation of the Nenets on the new Earth. The provincial administration was even developed and implemented a number of measures stimulating the attraction of nonsense to the resettlement to new land and support their field activities.
In the initial period of the colonization of the new land on the highest royal decree, every first-silent male industrial sector from the state treasury was supposed to be 350 rubles as "lifting" or compensation. At the same time, the settlers were exempted for 10 years from all state-owned and farmers, who wishes in five years to move back to the mainland could return to the previous place of residence without prior permission.
In 1892, by order of the Minister of Internal Affairs, 10% of the gross revenue from the sale of products were subject to "enrollment in a special spare colonization capital, and the net profit of individual colonists was supposed to be included in the savings cashier on special registered books." Each Samoode-hunter had a special book by signing the governor, in which the amount owned by the owner is denoted. " Spare capital was used to assist the first-settlements - for the delivery of them from the tundra to Arkhangelsk, accommodation in it for several months, providing clothing and guns of crafts, delivery to a new land, issuing a free cash benefit, etc.
Settlement of new land (its inhabitants)
The accommodation of indigenous self-seeds on the new earth is up to the 19th century, unlike Vaigach (islands located between the new land and the mainland) - not confirmed.
Nevertheless, when in 1653 (already after the Barents and other foreign predecessors), three Denish vessels reached a new land, the ship doctor of this expedition de Lamartiner in the description of the navigation to the archipelago pointed to a meeting with local residents - Novozemel. Like Samoyed (Nenets), they worshiped the sun and wooden idols, but they differed from the self-called clothes, decorations and coloring faces. Lamartiner indicates that they used boats resembling a light canoe, and the tips of copies and arrows, like their other tools, were made of fish bones.
The literature also meets mention of the attempts of Russian families to settle in the archipelago in the XVI-XVIII centuries. There is a legend that Guba Stroganova, located in the southwestern part of the new land, is named after the Stroganov family, fled from Novgorod during the persecution of John Grozny. After two hundred years, in 1763, on the coast of the lips of the Black (southern part of the archipelago), 12 people of the Old Believer family of Pakacheva settled. They were forced to escape from Kemi, refusing to renounce their faith. Both families died, apparently, from Qingi.
Nevertheless, it is reliably known that the new land has become dwelling only at the end of the 19th century. In 1867 on two carbas southern coast New Earth sailed Nenets Thomas Claw with his wife Arina and Children. The nenets accompanying them went in the fall back, and the catch with his family and Nensel left for the wintering. At the end of winter, he died. The flap was the first famous permanent resident of the archipelago. He lived on goose land, in small carmarkets and on the coast of Motokin Bowl.
In 1869 or in 1870, one industrialist drove into the wintering of several Nenets (Samoyloov) and they lived on a new land for several years. In 1872, the second Nenets family was arrived at the new land - Pyrherki Maxim Danilovich. Nenets proved that a person can live on a new land.
"In 1877, a rescue station was arranged in becoming small carmarkets in order to deliver secure refuge to industrials both for the time of fishery and in case of unforeseen wintering, and at the same time for the help of assistance crews of ships in the event of a crash of them near this island.
In addition, for the protection of the erected buildings and to occupy there, the fisheries were then delivered to new land and several self-named families from the Mezen County were taken to a new land in Malokarmakulsky; They were equipped with heat clothing, shoes, guns, powder, lead, food reserves and other tools for hunting and crafts.
Commanded to a new land for the rescue station device Lieutenant of the body of the naval navigator Tyodin met there the very two self-named families, consisting of 11 people who noded near the Gulf of Moller for eight years.
These Samoymen were sent here with one Pechora industrialist, and were supplied with good funds for fishers, but they were excited and, without risking to return home, they completely died with the new earth. Once in a complete economic dependence in one of the industrialists-Pomorov, which supplied them with the necessary supplies, in return - of this - it is reasonable, in the most affordable cheap prices - by selecting the items of the fisheries, Samoyed asked Tyagin to include them in the rescue artel's brought on the waters. . A. P. Engelgardt. English North: Travel Notes. St. Petersburg, ed, A.S. Svorin, 1897
Expedition E.A. Ttyagin. Built the rescue station in small carmaculas and conducted hydrometeorological observations during wintering. The wife of Tyagina gave birth to a child who became one of the first children who appeared on the world on the new land.
The colonists-Nenets who settled in small carmaculas chose a volunteer foma, as the first inhabitant of the island, an old-age. It was concerned about the conservation of people-colonists, the obligation to protect order, as well as the organization of unloading and loading of ships. In the performance of their official duties, Thomas put on top of the paid and disturbed burst of Malitsa White round tin badge, which meant a decompress. After pulling out the pull, all control of the rescue station passed into the hands of the thomas. He conscientiously performed this duty for many years.
First Famous New Earth Resident - Thomas Culfice
Thomas Valka - an interesting person. He was born on the shore of the hungry lip at the mouth of the Pechora River, in the very poor family. At seven years, having remained round orphans, went to the bars to a rich reindeer and worked only for fed.
The owner had a son whom a diploma was taught, forced to read and write. Thomas saw all this. He asked the young owner they were one year old - to teach his literacy. They went away in the tundra or in the forest, where no one had seen them, they dragged the letters on the snow or on the sand, folded the words, read in the syllables. So Thomas knew the Russian diploma. And one day, when the owner beat a foma very much, he ran away from the house, taking a master's psalrty with him ...
Turning from pasture to the pasture where many reindeer herders gathered, Thomas looked at her beautiful girl and decided to marry. Having disturbed the ancient rites of the matchmaker, asked the girl himself, whether she wishes his wife. And only when he received her consent, seated the matchmaker. Several years have passed. Thomas came to the ancient capital of European Nentes emptyersk at the Fair. Here, he was persuading to take Christianity, marriage with his wife in the Christian rite, to paint the daughter. Foma himself was supposed to take confession in the church. Here it happened something unexpected. The priest asked her confession "Didn't you steal?" Thomas wanted, upset, wanted to even escape, but finally admitted that he took a psalrty at the owner as a child ...
The new owner, to whom Thomas hired to this work, suggested that he to go to the island of Vaigach at the head of the commercial Arteel of the host to industrial animals. So three years walked Thomas on the carbas on the sea on Vaigach and always brought good prey to the owner. The foma strengthened the reputation of a lucky hunter, skillful pilots and a good old-fashioned fishing artel. After some time, he began to ask the owner to send him with the artel on the fishery of the marine beast on a new land. The owner approved this plan, assembled the artel, equipped two sailing carbasses. On the way to new land met them heavy storm, threw the steering wheel from one carbas, foma washed into the sea. Miraculum assistant dragged him on board the hair. One carbas turned back, the second, who led Thoma Culk, safely reached the shores of the new land. So Thomas Claw with his wife and daughter first fell to a new land. A year later, they were born there the second daughter.
Once, Thomas returned from the fishery and saw around the hut, where there were a wife and children, a big white bear. The polar bear at the Nenets was considered a sacred beast. The hunt for him was not forbidden, but the hunter, before killing this beast, should mentally advise the bear to leave the winner. If the bear does not leave, it means that he wants death himself. Thomas killed a polar bear, approached him, apologized, bowed as the owner of a new land and the sea. Meat bear, according to ancient Nenets custom, was allowed to eat only men. The carcass of the sacred beast could be made in the Chum not through the door, which was considered an unclean place, but only from the front of the plague, raising it covered. Women could eat bear meat if they draw themselves coal mustache and beard. Such a "tricky move" with the retreat from the ancient rites, apparently, helped to escape from the hungry death by many nonsense women.Many difficulties had to go through the Foma Foma Foma on New Earth. Harsh, infinitely long winter, loneliness. Food mined with great difficulty, clothes and shoes sewed from animal skins. The firewood was not enough to warm up and illuminate the Chum, Zhgli Vorvan - Salo of the Marine Beast.
Once, when the family of another Nanza, Pyrrhki Maxim Danilovich, already lived next to the camps on the island, was already living, "such an event happened. In the last fall to the plague of the Nenets came Norwegian sailors from a broken vessel. The kind of them was terrible: exacerbated to an hour, in heated clothes and shoes. Thomas and Pyrhell gladly accepted them in their chum, fed, warmed, provided them with the best places in the plague. The wives sewed them warm fur and shoes. Norwegians did not eat seal meat, and the Nenets had to specially ride a hunt to the mountains, kill wild deer there and feed the guest of fresh boiled meat. When one of Norwegians fell ill quiet, Thomas and Pyrhell forced him to drink the warm blood of the beasts and there is a raw meat delay, triturated his legs, the body, forced to walk, did not give a lot to sleep, and so saved him from death.
In the spring, Nenets gave the Norwegian sailors boat, and they left home. Parting was very touching: we were crying, kissed, embraced, the sailors thanked the Nenets for salvation from the inevitable death. Exchanged gifts. The pet was presented with a pipe, and he was a walrus fang.
Several years have passed since sailors left. Once in small carmarkets came the sea steamer. All the colonists-Nenets invited him. The Swedish Messenger read and presented a diploma-gratitude signed by the Swedish king. Then they began to distribute gifts. The first gift of the fome of the reel - a gun-fitting and cartridges. Showed how to use it. Thomas with joy could not resist and immediately shot the head of the floating Gagara, which violated the order of the solemn ceremony ...
Mastering a new land
In 1880, M.K.Sidorov, together with shipowners, Kononov, Voronov and SEEVovikov, gives the Minister of Internal Affairs a report on improving the situation of the Northern Territory. It proves the need for the right organization of resettlement of Russian industrialists to a new land. By the summer of 1880, the armed armed armed lands were transferred from the Baltic sailing schooner "Bakan". From this year, regular shipping flights from Arkhangelsk to Small Karmakula are established.
In 1881, the Regulations on the colonization of the new land was approved. From September 1, 1882 to September 3, 1883, under the program of the First International Polar Year, continuous observations on meteorology and earthmognetism are conducted in small carmaculas.
The works of the polar station led the hydrograph, Lieutenant K.P. Inderev. At the end of April - early May 1882, an employee of the station doctor L.F. Grinevitsky, accompanied by Nenets Khanets Culfice and the proclux for the first research crossing of the Southern Island of the New Earth from the Small Karmakul to the eastern shore in 14 days (back and forth).
In 1887 in the lip of Pomorskaya, the sheds of the Motokkin Bowl is based on a new becoming. Here, a member of the Russian geographical society K.D.Nosylov, who conducted regular meteorological observations. In small carmarkets arrived by Hieromona Father Ion with a psaller. Prior to this, the diocesal spiritual authorities sent annually in summer to the new land of the priest for the departure of the demand and worship services in a small chapel.
In 1888, the Arkhangelsk Governor Prince N.D. Golitsyn arrived at the new land. In Arkhangelsk, a wooden church was built specifically for a new land, which the governor delivered along with the iconostasis into small carmaculas. In the same year, the father of Ion made two trips. One in the Mushekin ball for the baptism of the two inhabitants. The second is to the eastern coast of the Southern Island, to the Kara Sea. Here he found and destroyed the Nenets wooden idol, who personified the deer of the deer of the hunt. Idolas were father ionized and destroyed in other places of the southern island. The father of Ion began to teach the Nenets Children of a diploma, and their parents - prayers.
On September 18, 1888, the new church was consecrated. The church was supplied with magnificent icons, valuable church utensils and bells. In 1889, Nikolo-Karelian monastery was established in small carmaculas, with the permission of St. Synod, Monastic Skit. The task of the monks was not only the preaching among the Nenets, but also assistance in changing the arguing life during the transition from nomadic life to the settled. Perennial activity of the ion father gave their fruits. Colonists The Germans willingly attended the temple, and their children read and sang in the church during worship services.
In 1893, the Russian industrialists of Yakov stocks and Vasily Kirillov with families moved from the mouth of Pechora to a new land for permanent residence.
By 1894, the permanent population of the new land was 10 families of nonsense in the amount of 50 people. This year, the new land visited the Arkhangelsk Governor A.P. Engelgard, which, on a ship "Lomonosov", brought more than 8 families among the 37 people who expressed the desire to settle in the archipelago.
On the vessel was delivered in a disassembled form a six-room house for school and residence of the father of ions and a psaller. This house was collected in small carmaculas. Another house was brought for becoming in a mockey ball. So, in small carmarquulas in 1894, the building of the Church, a school, two houses in which the Nenets lived, the building in which the Feldsher lived and there was a warehouse of supplies, the barn, where spare construction materials were kept, and in the winter there was a rescue bot. There were three small houses in the Mikekin Bowl in which Nenets lived.
.Geographical position
New Earth - Archipelago in the Arctic Ocean between the Barents and Kara Seas; It is included in the Arkhangelsk region of Russia in the rank of the municipality "New Earth".
The archipelago consists of two large islands - the northern and southern, separated by a narrow strait (2-3 km) Mushekin Ball and a plurality of relatively small islands, the largest of which is the interruption. The northeastern tip of the North Island - Cape Flissing - is the easiest point of Europe.
It stretches from southwest to the northeast by 925 km. The northernmost point of the new land is the eastern island of large orange islands, the southernmost islands of Pintukhovsky Archipelago, Western - Unnamed Cape on the Peninsula Guas Earth South Island, East - Cape Flissing Islands North.
Area of \u200b\u200ball islands more than 83 thousand km²; The width of the North Island to 123 km, South - up to 143 km.
In the south, the Car Gate (50 km width) is separated from Vaigach Island.
About half of the area of \u200b\u200bthe North Island occupy glaciers. On the territory of about 20,000 km² - solid ice cover, stretching by almost 400 km long and up to 70-75 km in width. Ice power Over 300 m. In some places, the ice is descended into fjords or breaks into the open sea, forming ice barriers and giving the beginning of iceberg. The total area of \u200b\u200bthe glaciation of the new land is 29,767 km², of which about 92% of the coating glaciation and 7.9% mountain glaciers. On the South Island - the sections of the Arctic Tundra.
Climate
The climate is arctic, harsh. Winter is long and cold, with strong winds (the speed of the catabathic (stock winds) reaches 40-50 m / s) and snowstorms, in connection with which the new land in the literature is sometimes taken to call the "country of winds". Frosts reach -40 ° C. The average temperature of the warm month is August - from 2.5 ° C in the north to 6.5 ° C in the south. In winter, the difference reaches 4.6 °. The difference in temperature conditions between the coasts of Barents and Kara Seas exceeds 5 °. Such temperature asymmetry is due to the difference in ice mode specified seas. On the archipelago itself, many small lakes, under the rays of the sun, the temperature of the water in the southern regions can reach 18 ° C.
Population
In the administrative plan of the archipelago is a separate municipal formation of the Arkhangelsk region. It has status but (closed administrative-territorial education). To enter a new land, you need a special pass. Before the beginning of the 90s. The very existence of settlements on the new land was a state secret. The postal address of the village of Beluchea Guba was "Arkhangelsk-55", the village of Rogachevo and "Points" located on the South Island and the south of the North Island - "Arkhangelsk-56", "Points" located in the north of the North Island and the land of Franz Joseph - " Krasnoyarsk Territory, Dikson-2 Island "(a message with them through Dixon and maintained). In the administrative center - the village of urban-type Belushya Luba, located on the South Island - 2149 people (2013) live. The second settlement on the new land currently existing - the village of Rogachevo (457 people), 12 km from the Belouchie lips. Here is a military airfield - Amderma-2. 350 km north south Bank Strait Mushekkin Shar - the village of North (without a permanent population), the base of underground tests, mountain and construction and installation work. There are currently no settlements on the North Island.
Indigenous population - Nenets were completely evicted from the islands in the 1950s, when a military polygon was created. The population of the villages mainly make up military and builders.
According to the results of the All-Russian Census 2010, the population of the new land is 2429 people and focused only in two settlements - Belushi lip and horror.
Nature
The ecosystems of the new land are customary to attribute to biomams of the Arctic desert (North Island) and Arctic Tundra.
The main role in the formation of phytocenoses belongs to MCHM and lichens. The latter are represented by the types of complain, the height of which does not exceed 3-4 cm.
A significant role is also played by arctic herbaceous annuals. Characteristic of the scanty flora of the islands plants are peeling species, such as Iva Creeps (SALIX Polaris), SAXIFRAGA Oppositifolia (SaxiFraga Oppositifolia), Mountain Lichen and others. The vegetation in the southern part is in most dwarf birch, moss and low grass, in areas near rivers, lakes and bays are growing many mushrooms: freight, lump, etc.
Most big Lake - goose. It contains freshwater fish, in particular the Arctic Caulfur. Springs, lemming, white partridges, as well as reindeer are common from animals. White bears come to the southern areas with the onset of cold weather, being a threat local residents. From marine animals there are Greenland seal, nerpe, sea hare, walru, whales.
On the Islands of the Archipelago, you can find the largest bird bars in the Russian area of \u200b\u200bthe Arctic. Here will be treated Cayra, deadlocks, seagulls.
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