We are going to Morocco: Imperial cities, sugar and atlas mountains. Hike to Africa! Trekking in Morocco "High Satin Mountains and Climbing Tubkal"

Morocco.
Insha Alla

When in the tight time on the question of the question: "How many hours to go from had a tube to the hut?" We heard from the guide fatalistic "Insha Alla" (* God is not a franger, he sees everything (well, very free translation)), I had to hold an explanatory work with him about the presence in the Russian language of the proverb "on God Nading, and I myself am not a root."

Hussein's guide (now easily remembered name), as well as everything in Morocco knows French and weakly understanding our English, it seems to be imbued with the essence of the proverbs and henceforth I tried to answer more precisely.

Man walks - God leads

This time we started in the Atlas Mountains, where the highest peak of Northern Africa is located - Tubkal (4167 m). On many maps, the top is marked as Jebel Pubcal, but Jebel is translated as "Mountain", so the combination of Mount Jabel Pubcal is not entirely true. Jebel Tubkal is located in Morocco, in Maghreb, the region where there is no black population, as there are no elephants, giraffes, rhinos and other African exotic.

Everything, as always, began with an idea to be angry with an exotic vertex, where he has not yet stepped (according to our information) the foot of the Ukrainian extremal. He chased the beginning of the negotiations with the staff of Moroccan travel agencies, which reported that in May on the tube there is still snow. We answered that it did not scare it. Then the company inspired himself to explain to us that snow is such a white, cold and, sometimes, in the mornings, slippery substance and better wait until July, when this substance from the heat evaporates. We continued to insist on climbing during the holiday of all workers, and the firm was forced to agree, for himself deciding that we were going to ski. Subsequently, it turned out that none of the representatives of the firm in Casablanc never had a snow in the mountains - hence the fear of the mountains.

The route was developed on scant information from the Internet and guide to Morocco, from here and some annoying lining. Initially, we wanted to pass a three-day track in the Atlask Mountains - for acclimatization and warm-up, then climb the tube and ride in Morocco. The coordination of the route in the mountains was very hard, the company could not answer many questions, and we decided to fly on the Canadian hockey principle: "Puck in the zone", then you mean the body in the highlands, and

God loves, will not destroy

I had to fly through Amsterdam, as there were no other options from Odessa. In Amsterdam, they were not released to the city, I had to walk on the airport for a couple of hours. I am often asked: "How do you choose objects for traveling?" I answer: "Go to Amsterdam Airport On the second floor and see the cards that columns are placed there. This Handbook of Extremal. Both Mac-Kinley, and Rassed, and Mauna Kea, and Kilimanjaro - the most interesting tops of the Earth. "

By evening, flew to Casablanca - the economic capital of Morocco. Rabat, respectively, - political capital, and Marrakesh is historical. Casablanca, "How much in this word!" In the brain there are stories about smugglers and spies. We were asked on the border where we are going to spend the night. I put the invitation from the company under the nose, the guys in the form shrugged and stated that only the point of night, such as the village of Porietnikovo, but the hotel is not specified, and there is no hotels in this hole. The main border guard held me to the exit, where, fortunately, was the representative of the meeting part, who explained to the referee that Ukrainian climbers in hotels do not need.

Mosque Khasan II.

We spent over the country villa (I suspect a dacha of one of the employees of the company, and the money for the night at the hotel guys seem to save), where they began to take the "Moroccan whiskey" - very sweet tea with mint and Tajina, this name and ceramic dishes with a conical lid, and a way to cook in it. This time, tajin with a whole chicken and couscous (porridge from crushed wheat) were offended.

In the garden, the villas are bred by a snails, which are exported to France, although Moroccans also eat them with pleasure.

In the morning we went to Casablanca, to the main attraction: Khasan II Mosque. Capacity - 100,000 believers.

The Grand Construction built on the artificial peninsula, the height of the minaret - 176 m. With a minaret of 50 km. Beats a laser beam, and the roof shifts, giving access to light.

Since Orthodoxes before prayer should have a bluntness, it strikes 100,000 people's thoughtful wallf system.

Casablanca - a relatively modern city and fans of exotic here are not very interesting.

In the morning, the minibus was moved to Marrakech, from where, taking a mountain guide, equipment and having listed, drove up to Ilila (1740 m). I had a village where the road ends and from where all the travels in the mountains of the High Atlas begins. Atlas Mountains are divided into the middle atlas in the north, high satin and antiats in the south. More south is located West SaharaNow controlled by Morocco.

In Hyl, we were waiting for a caravan of mules, and after 40 minutes we were in the village of Armud (1920 m), where we were placed in the shelter.

The shelter in Berber villages is a space, an open wall, inside the courtyard and several buildings: 2-3-storey house with rooms for overnight stay, kitchen, dining room, toilets, shower (with hot water from the balloral gas column), the house of the shelter. In the rooms carpets, mattresses, blankets and pillows. There are no furniture, quite clean. The owners are welcome welcome, show their home.

Trapeza

The weather was excellent, and we were covered by Dastarkhan on the roof of the house, from which the magnificent view of the massif of the tube was opened. Because the menu again prevailed Couscous, we, after busy trading, bought a lamb, and dinner succeeded. When they brought the broken lamb, I defiantly recalculated the legs of the animal: one clearly lacked. The hosts raised the missing fragment, but we could not master it and asked to warm up to the morning. Strategic error! In the morning, we were with innocent faces and quite seriously proved that the leg was spoiled for the night, and it had to be thrown out. When we started laughing, the owners were joyful and smoke together in their teeth.

They managed to get red wine to the lamb, and this is not a lung in the country with an almost dry law.

Do not drink, and with good people knew

From 1912 to 1956 for the most part Morocco owned France and Spain. By the way, and still the city of Seut and Melilla on the Mediterranean coast of Morocco belong to Spain. Colonialists landed vineyards, and still in Morocco produce good wines. In the shops of large cities, a large selection of alcohol, but only foreigners can acquire it. Hussein categorically refused to buy us even beer because of possible troubles. In small villages, the alcohol do not sell at all, but to the lamb, we were parted to bring a bottle of wine, wrapped with several layers of newspaper and packed in a black polyethylene package. How did we have fun when, opening the package, they discovered a bottle of kosher wines made by one of the numerous Morocco Jewish communities.

On the way, the village of Chamhar (2310 m), holy place, which are attended by women going to conceive a child. Hussein tells us the legend of a huge stone, having spilled in this place of the rider on a white horse.The stone, the size of the 2-storey house, painted with white paint, has the place to be that the truth of the legend must confirm.

Hut (like many others in Morocco) is built by the Club climbers of France at an altitude of 3600 m. Very good stone constructions, A person is 100, with Diesel (there is light), cutlery, kitchens and a beautiful lounge with upholstered furniture and fireplace.

Hut

There is even a shower, but it works only during the day, from solar heaters.In the rooms - 2-storey naras, clean, warm.

Several climbers brought skis and ride snowfish from the hut. Talked with climbers of the Polish group, descended from the mountain. Cats are needed, ice axes can not take, the ropes are not needed.

I start torture Hussein, why we immediately go to the mountain, and not in the track. It turns out that the firm hosting us in Morocco has never organized tracks and climbing and smalked at this plot of Hussein, who did not even know that we first want to go to the track.

Well, on the mountain, so on the mountain. Given that in Ecuador, we started from the hut at an altitude of 5100 m, for 4137 somehow we will choose.

God for us, no one is

According to the habit, they wanted to go out in 3-4 in the morning, Hussein recommended to go out in 7, was stripped to go out in 6.

Snow Most

Apparently, it is not customary to meet dawn on top. Right on the bench at the huts we had cats and, while moving the snowy bridge over the river, they went to the passage along the fibium slope. I am often asked not to write climbing descriptions, but to serve events with more artistic drama.

For enthusiastic readers, it would be necessary to write: "I'm plenty of the canyon on a treacherously crawling, unreliable snow bridge, and through the slim, translucent in the rays of the rising sun of the firma layer, saw on the bottom of the river a frantic stream of water grumbled huge stones, like a millstone of the Devil Mill. .. ".

But Potalyaeva Style titled "Uznozhnaya Ice Court" I am better as-Norudou Sochind for KVN.

In addition to Hussein, Mehdi, the "Emergency", adopting the experience of the organization of the tracks from Hussein, was on Mount. An hour through three snow ended, we left cats under the stone and on the fartheart trails went to the pass and, then on the ridge, to a flat top, tearing into the east and north walls.

Here is the top

At the top - the metal pyramid, written by the Arabic knitting of the type "Kis and the axis was here." We are above the clouds, but the gaps are visible green oasis had it.

Very cold wind, and the first Alexey Tymoshenko was clicked down, and we were inilt (Alexander Grebennikov, Timofey Datsyuk, Vladimir Musarsky, Alla and Vitaly Tomchik) deploy the flag of Ukraine on the highest top of North Africa.

Descent down. Screeless, hard and slippery: Rasky snow, in which periodically failed.

Hut. Hussein does not give to relax, and we immediately go down in Ilil.

At 6 pm in Armudude. 12 hours of work. The legs are buzzing, the stairs want to descend back forward.

Grabbed how the mountain rolled

Self-immolation

Surprise from Hussein. Tomorrow we go out in a three-day track through 4 pass. "Why do we need a track?" - I ask Hussein, because we do not need acclimatization."But you ordered," he is logical.Do not obey, ordered. It's like after kebabs in a restaurant brings for coffee forgotten tkemali.

We decided to go to the Berbers.

From Armuda at 7 am came to Pass MZIC (2489 m). Picturesque screaming, arched forests, lunch in very cold nature. According to the example of the chapels, the fire was burned, warmed up.

For hours to 14 came to the village of Oyusssem (1850 m). The hut is good, but the guides are not allowed to wander around the village of the village.

Berberca

Berbers are by no means located to invite us to tea and talk for life. When we move through the villages, Hussein goes ahead, and Mehdi closes a group that distinguishes annoying boys, which can and stamps the film to the non-crude photographer.

In the morning in the picturesque, yellow-color road, curly on red fuses, we pass a few villages, sometimes look like a strengthening. Terraced fields treated with a plow in two horsepower, gardens, irrigation systems, herds of rams and goats in the courtyards - everything is very picturesque.

Length

We go in Africa

Strevilion

Terraces

Fraternization

After the next pass, we go to the football field in the Arch Forest. In Morocco, the mass of football fans, and there are fields in any village. On the beaches playing hours from 5 am and to night.

After Lunch, it was raining, and the next pass is passing on a spacious clay, a narrow path above the cliff, which is quite unpleasant.

In the village of the streets of muddy and cold water streams, but local boys are happily fused down on the fifth point.

A big hut, a lot of tourists, mostly French (the French are used by Morocco as a venue for the weekend, many have villas on the coast, feel like at home), I would even say the Frenchwoman.

Tamatert

Trying to sing us "near Moscow evenings", but burned by the wind high mountains The guys are not amenable to playing the preference to the noise of rain and mint tea.

In the morning you die on the way to Ikissa.

Taki yes - Mountains

A very beautiful gorge, because of the rain river rose, itch is impossible, we go on a steep bypass trail. And here is the last pass - Tamatert (2279 m.).

Mouli came out earlier and on the passage we will be waiting for a great lunch overlooking the mountains covered with fresh snow. We come to the opinion that it is very good that we first went to the mountain. Going to the top in a blizzard is not very nice.

Hammam

We are again in Armud. Extreme meters from our habitat is a rural bakery. In the morning, little girls from all over the village carry raw baked cakes on the head. This is undoubtedly more economical than the oven in every home.

So that the heat from the furnace does not disappear, the bath is attached to the bakery (hammam), the floor in which and the water is basked from the bakery furnace. Let's go swimming. It is necessary to wash in smelting, helped us in the process two gilt. One silent our bodies with liquid soap, similar to solidol, and categorically did not agree on our soap and shampoos. Then ter us a tight mitten. The second, apparently, the specialist of the highest category, turned her hands and legs, fented in different directions, obviously trying to injure. His Exercises could only be interrupted with a loud cry, so our screams had fun all the village.

In the evening, hospitable hosts arranged to the evening of amateur in the evening, with songs and dances, had to avoid international scandal, to participate. In the morning, finally, to the bus and Marrakesh. Actually, thanks to this city, the country is called Morocco. The city center, as in all old towns, lies with the fortress wall and is called "Medina". Wall in Marrakesh is notable - 20 km. The city is all of the red clay, noisy, dusty and sloppy. In the medina, a huge bazaar with streets of jewelers, weales, medical, shoemakers and other artisans. Goods are coarse and primitive; The shopkeepers, who were revealed from the influx of tourists, request unthinkable prices and offended that we laugh and do not want to bargain. The label "handmade" they want to justify laziness and the inability of artisans. But we went to museums and saw what wonderful products of local masters can be. It is better expensive to buy a product of excellent dressing than the mountain of gross robberies. But no: whether the skill was painted, or all the good goes to export.

It was cold, caught rain, and this all spoiled impressions from Marrakesh. Of course, the main square is very fun - Jema El Fna. Songs of local clatters have fun tourists and the local population. Snake caster, fortune-tales, singers and dancers, narrator, thickens and water suits, pockets and sellers of fresh juice, dozens of chharcene in the open air, Sellers of snails and even a dentist with hundreds of extended teeth on the tray, ready to take pictures of their prey for Dirham.

Interesting the tomb of Saidids is not so much with its magnificence (the tomb of Timur in Samarkand is not a luxurious example), but by the fact that it is generally preserved. The dynasty of Idrisides in Morocco was replaced by almoravids, then almohara, merinids, Saadidi and Alawitites. All the dynasties had a general trait - a desire to destroy everything that the previous dynasty created. Sultan Mulai Ismail Sultan Milay Tomb did not dare to destroy, but surrounded by the carved wall. Now in the wall made a narrow passage, which you can get to this architectural ensemble. A palace of Bahia with 150 rooms with magnificent painted ceilings, fountains and stained glass windows, Menara Palace with a huge garden and a pond, water in which comes from the mountains in the pipelines.

From Marrakesh moved to the main Moroccan resort on the Atlantic - Agadir. Boring modern tourist city with huge fishport. In 1960, Agadir was destroyed by an earthquake, and only the Portuguese fortress of Santa Cruz Cap Guer on Mount was from the old days.

Rent a Phantom yacht and went to the ocean to portray Hemingway.

The tuna could not be caught, but they put the bucket of different little things, which Kok immediately made on a galley. Lunch in the open ocean has a beneficial to our tired and movements of organisms.

Further, according to the plan, Casablanca was again, but we whispered about the beautiful Es-Savier, and we entered the planning plan. On the way to Es-Savirui, they drove to waterfalls, where the local population extends diving into ice water. Our team, violating the local monopoly, to the enthusiasm of the French, the whole task began to the cold font, leading to the despondency of Berber.

And so Es-sowwira (Essaouira) - the wonderful completion of our journey.

Lovely Es Sewwira

Ancient medina with such narrow streets that the backpacks were brought to the cart on the cart.

Even in the ears in. BC. The Phoenicians founded a trading factor here; In 650 BC. There was a settlement of Carthaginian; in 1 c. BC e. - This is the Western tip of the Roman Empire, where the purple paint for the tunic was mined.

Many times, this land has changed the name and rulers, and now this is a wonderful resort town, who retained the manners once chose the hippie place.

Farewell to Es Suveira

Old port with zucchi on the shore of the ocean crabs, lobsters, shrimps, muren the most first freshness; fruits and vegetables, restaurants in narrow streets, where you can sit in your favorite chair Jimmy Hendrix, lit here in the 60s, the market with non-raid sellers and Shops, C, Imagine, designated prices.

Many art galleries with works of French and Italian artists. This is the town where we decided if you return to the week and without fuss to get around all his streets.

The text used proverbs of the Russian people from the collection of V. Daly

PR, Andrei Sidorov, shares his observations about this african country. This time it will be discussed about the three ancient capitals of Morocco - Fes, Meknes and Marrakesh. It is here that the bulk of tourists flow into search of Arab and Berber authentics. From here, the majority of popular routes are sent: to the Atlas Mountains, on the Western Dunes of Sahara in Merzuga or to the film Varzazat. If in Casablanca or Tangier constantly hear from the local, that you are not in the real Morocco, then here it is.

FES.

Fez is once prosperous, and now the beggar Moroccan city. Argue with Marrakesh for the third place in the number of residents. From the point of view of authentic North African culture, the most juicy place in Morocco.

Road

I got into the feges from Shaven (Shiffohana) directly through the mountains. Transport by this route almost does not go, so I traveled on the travelers. To overcome 200 kilometers it was necessary to change three cars. Highway in Morocco is very comfortable. Roads are good and varied. You can always find an alternative to the speed-free highway (and they also have) to get up with hand elongated. And Moroccans, and Europeans on rented cars stop often and ready to offer assistance on the road.

The first car picked me up 10 minutes after the exit from the "blue city" Shaven. The car was an Arab family with two young children. This symbolically displays the level of security in the country and the degree of trust between people. During the stop, the driver Khalid dragged for a walk in the mountains, olive groves and sickness of the forest of local poachers, and his wife fed and drank tea.

The next driver did not know the word in English, but told everything about his work and family, at the same time showed photos of his wife and native excavator. In gesture language discussed the advantages of BELARUS tractors. The topic is relevant - in May around the road, the harvest has already been actively. Mature brown fields with neatly removed stacks against the background of mountain ranges create some kind of good and warm views.
And the driver of the third car was Anas - in the recent past, a student of the Kharkov Medical University. A huge number of Moroccans go to Ukraine. Why it was there - no one could not explain to me.

Medina ( old city) Fes.

The first thing that Anas did, arriving in the city - went to buy a local hashish. In general, in Morocco it smokes everywhere, but in Fez - almost more often cigarettes. In poor and rich districts, in the old medina and in modern city - Smoke stands everywhere. I heard the opinion that employers try to hide migrants and refugees from Central Africa - those, in contrast to local, are not so dependent on the "Gasha".

And the whole Fes in this. The city is both sleepy, and excited, in smoke from hundreds of mangals and firemen, confusing and poor, dirty and beautiful. Life in Medina is very stuffy, dense and measured - because of this, the city resembles a piece of plasticine.

Medina Fez is the most confusing place of all I wandered in Morocco. Each opposite pride tells about 6,000 streets of the Old Town. But the problem is not even in their quantity. Most of them do not lead anywhere. Streets simply scatter on a few wicked alleys and well, if at least one of them leads to a lively place, and not to the entrances of the local poverty.

"Streets simply run up for a few wicked alleys and well, if at least one of them leads to a lively place, and not to the entrances of the local poverty"

Houses tightly converge and hang each other. They are so dilapidated that they are supported by the web of the beams, through which the sunlight is hardly made. Below, on the streets, cool enough, but stuffy. On the roofs terraces - baked and views of thousands of terracotta houses and mosques.

Separately, you need to tell about "helpers". IN tourist places Morocco is always a lot of them. As soon as you show confusion on the streets, the local, ready to take you, where you do not need or where it is necessary. Payment will require in any case, and the amount of remuneration will never satisfy it. One way out is just to pretend that you do not notice anyone and how the locomotive is smoothly and adamantly moving on your affairs. But in Fez it does not always work. First, smoothly and inexperienced can go to some completely forgotten streets on Allah. In order not to look like a donkey, stubbornly watched a deadlock, you have to succumb to the offer of help. True, you still look like a donkey, only already driven. Secondly, many very poor people live in Medina and such an earnings for them are the only possible. So just from you will not retain. It is important to clearly understand one thing - nothing really bad happened there can not happen there. There are a lot of police in the city and everyone knows each other. If you yourself do not give money, no one will take them. Typically, the conversation about money begins on more or less open spaces, so you can just leave. The road is better to ask for older sellers.

I caught, perhaps the most crazy guy. Looks like an evil twin Jamel Debybuza. After three hours of exhausting wandering on the medina forces, I had no reason for sure. Warning that there is no dirhams, I had to agree on his excursion. So I plunged on the most bottom poverty of the old city. Houses without interior decoration, Women in rags mnouted cottage cheese directly on the earthen floors, from the furniture headset in the rooms - the mattress, an old little TV and an ashtray with the remnants of the court from Ketama. In "apartments" it is cold and raw, despite the +40 s on the street.

After 20 minutes of the walk, I still convinced him that I really don't really have money, and anger and rage began. He screamed on the whole medina. It was impossible that it cannot be done with him - he heads down the head alone, he has a "Sword" and he will kill me. Find the hotel and kill. It is difficult to seriously perceive such threats in the middle of a busy street. The role of "killers" finally collapsed when he tried to explain to me in English that he had a Kalashnikov machine. The situation is the maximum comical - you yourself suggest and guess which threats send a person. I left.

"As soon as you show confusion on the streets, a local, ready to take you, where you do not need or where you need"

In order not to fall into such situations, it is better to abandon the plans to just be allawing around the city. My advice is to choose one attraction, outline in advance direction and go firmly to it. Most of the attention of the attention are located next to the lively market straight streets, so you will not get lost. As your conditional goal, I chose leather dyeing (tannerie). To get to them, you need to go through almost the entire medina, bypassing the main markets, the areas of artisans of different sense, fortresses and mosque. Those. To be too inquisitive and padded before purchases, then you can never get the day.

Males themselves look a lotro and pretty. The smell around fruit, but tolerant. We look at them from the terraces of leather shops. Right here and hang out the skin of any color and shape. Jacket or a good bag - from € 100 to € 300, depending on your talents in bargaining.

Having descended from the terrace, I came across my killer-spent, with whom I was dulling on Medina per day before. Another lazy attempt to get money from me. Then they satted, they talked for life and divided into their affairs.

Fez is a new city

After a couple of hours after a walk along the slums of Medina, I was visiting the quarter of the private cottages of the new city. Tea, almond sweets and french news on the plasma screen size with the dwelling of that poor man. The living room itself is huge so much that it is divided into several parts - traditional Moroccan mosaic and carpets, European style, fountain (tile posted a picture of storks in the reeds - as many as memories of the homeland grated the heart), twisted-carved staircase.

The young people of the new city spends their time, disappearing in days in these living rooms, riding cars or walking around Assan II Avenue. Everything is just chatting, as in Fez is bored, as you need to go to try to tangier or take a walk in Es-Savirui, as people leave Casablanca, Rabat or Europe.

We ride aimlessly in a smaller car, my player gives on columns of the "Mushrooms" tracks and Max of Korzh. Fez finally finishes contrasts and surrealism of what is happening. The conversation in Renault is poured on the mixture of Arabic and French, Tryska and Surb. Mounted Understanding Breaking Song Psycho Killer Group Talking Heads:

QU "EST-CE QUE C" EST ("What is it") - sings the ensemble.
- QU "EST-CE QUE C" EST. What it is? - Asks Anas.
"I don't know, it's probably in French," answer.
- No, what is it? This is French.
"But I don't know French, you know."
- FA-FA-FA-FA-FA-FA, - Speakers say.
"Kes, Ces Kese - what it is ..." - argues anas.
- What is it Kes Kes Kese? - I clarify the question.
- Yes, Ces Ces Kese is "what it is."
- But this is French, I do not know what it is.
- I know, I know French. This is "what it is."
- …

In the dialogue, only Louis de Funes is missing.

Meknes

The road between Fes and Meknes takes half an hour by train. Cost - € 2. After Fez in Meknes, you get like a hot home bath. All people in Medina helped unobtrusively and disinterestedly. Streets are clearer and calmer. Sellers in the shops are not paying attention to you until you are interested in the product.

Of the attractions - again massive fortress walls, again abundant markets and the next luxurious ancient city gates. There are ruins of giant stables and royal gardens.

Meknes is a beautiful and calm city. I spent a couple of days in it to just take a break from Fez. And in general to relax. The terraces here are already cooler, much less people hunt for tourists and their dirhams, prices are not more expensive. At the same time, he is not as saturated with a kip of Maghreb life. It is unlikely that it makes sense to unite both of these cities in one short trip.

Marrakesh

"Watch, you see how many towns and villages are spread around? If the local does not want to work or did not get along with the community, he goes to look for any earnings in Marrakesh. There is nothing to do there with a tourist "- Half the road to Marrakesh, Jorgen is lucky from Denmark. Jorgen first arrived in Morocco in 1972 to smash Gasishe in Tangier. Since then, he is dulling between two countries. First, it took up leather shoes, then argan oil. Now obsessed with the best raw materials and recipe for rose oil. "Belarus? Hmm ... And this ... Country or tractor? A ha ha, "Yorgen laughs in Starikovski.

"Marrakesh is the most promoted tourist brand Morocco - and the most overwhelmed"

Regarding Marrakesh, he was absolutely right. The most promoted tourist brand Morocco - and the most overvalued. The only thing that I truly liked in Marrakesh is that it is easy to leave it - around a lot of interesting places.

The city is huge (just amazingly huge) the number of hostels, hotels in any cost, riad and guest houses. The hotels open bars and clubs, a lot of casinos. But why in this city - for me it remains a mystery. Medina Marrakesh is very simple and inconspicuous. Plus the fact that the market streets are wide, but there are few flavoring in them. At the same time, helpers, sellers of the Chinese hoist, closed in restaurants, snake camp, artists, henna and other people perceive tourists like cattle. Your personal space evaporates.

"Dozens of the most diverse and divorce musicians on the background of Special Forces and a mixture with a bunch of boiled snails create a truly mystical atmosphere"

The main attraction of the city is the area of \u200b\u200bJamaa El Fna. I was lucky to get on her on the day of political protests. In addition to riot police, the government caught up to the square maximum street artists to drown out protests. Dozens of the most volatilibrous and split musicians on the background of Special Forces and a mixture with a lot of boiled snails, create a truly mystical atmosphere.

In the next evenings, nothing happened on a huge area. There were only street restaurants with national food of mediocre quality and unbearable climbing.

Ramadan

Perhaps I saw the wrong Marrakech, which usually opens for tourists. I got into it during Ramadan. The holy month of Muslims completely changes the life of local even in such a relatively secular country as Morocco. A citizen Morocco may be in prison for a period of half a year for a serious violation of the post in Ramadan. For example, for alcohol consumption.

Among other rules - in the daytime it is impossible to eat, drink (including water), smoke (including Gasisch). Taking into account the heat is a difficult test for a person. Someone just becomes sluggish and calm, but someone is nervous and breeding. On the roads day it becomes even more unsafe. In order not to seem to be unacceptable and not to cause extra irritation, it is better to behave more modest at this time.
On the other hand, for a foreigner, in fact, little changes. Especially in tourist sites. Contrary to what they told me local on the eve, alcoholic shops and bars still work in cities. I did not notice the day the restaurants were closed.

On the night of Ramadan in the cities reigns a special atmosphere of the holiday. Everyone goes to the streets of families and with friends, shall be divided by dates and sweets. All unwailed smoke per day fills the city.

Ramadan is perhaps best timeTo go to Moroccan shopping markets. This month, Muslims try to be the most honest and avoid lies and bad thoughts. It is unlikely that this rule is for all iron, but nevertheless. Turning to bargain from the proven prices sometimes too lazy to the hungry stomach, so the sellers are more inclined to immediately say the price approximate to the real one. Due to the fact that Moroccans are very serious about this tradition, you yourself penetrate a special spirit that reign in the country at this time.

Merzuga, Varzazat and Other

A huge number of travelers come to Morocco for the sake of mountains, small colorful towns and villages. All this dusty movement will certainly pull you up, even if you flew to drink tea for a couple of days.

I did not have time to take a shower after settling in the Fesse hostel, but I have already studied the map of East Morocco with Catalan Zhordi and Local Berber. Even the picture itself of three multicolored heads who hung over the map in the light of yellow lanterns and under the singing of Muzzyov's nearest mosques - movies.
Places between Fez and Marrakesh and East are full of authentic villages and natural attractions. What exactly you visit, depends on the road good luck, if you travel yourself, or from a guide, if you go through easier. In any city, you can find a local earning on tourist routeswhich will offer a saltwater from mountains, deserts, jeeps and camels - the set depends on how much you are willing to pay and spend time. In Marrakesh, small tourist bureau and at all are copied at every step.

The most common option is to leave Fez and come to Marrakech, or vice versa, on the arc and with zigzags, which depend on the saturation of Trip. There are airports in both cities.

Most tourists are torn to Merzuga - the most east of Morocco and the west of the Sahara. A photogenic dune begins on the outskirts of the town. Be ready that this is not a fatal and mystical journey through sugar, but an organized trip for photos in instagram. An alternative approach to the desert is in Zagor. Here canyons and gorge.

Right under the marrakem is the Mountain Tubkal - the highest point of atlas. Known as a vertex, convenient to climb an inexperienced team.

Warzazat attracts tourists by what is essentially a puller Pavilion Hollywood.

IFRAN - the mountain resort is very close to the feather. According to the familiar Belarusians, the tradition calls "Moroccan Switzerland".

A hundred kilometers from Marrakesh there are cascades of waterfalls cord.

The common trouble of the routes of Central and East Morocco is their excavation tourism. The pristine nature is commercialized and finding secluded places may not be so simple. Local surround tourist groups intrusive as mosquitoes. As a result, you disappear from everything, even if they offer good goods / services.

Lifehaki

Do not forget that most Moroccans will help you free -
Pay attention to the appearance and do not be afraid to ask. Once I was not just brought out of the Maznina Fez from the labyrinth, but also taken the place in the center of the new city.

Discharged carriages with horses are not just entertainment for tourists, but a common and popular urban transport. The price is lower than in a taxi, bargaining is more than appropriate. Stenha is present. In Marrakesh, the carriage with the Connectors are knocked into traffic jams, fall into an accident - with all the consequences. Horses hurts to watch.

The price of a glass of orange Freasha - 4-5 Dirham (€ 0.5). If they are expensive, you can shoot down without a special bargaining.

Ryanair flies in Marrakesh and Fez. Between large cities Often go comfortable and inexpensive trains. Tickets can be. The train can be seriously late, this is the norm.

At least in one city it is worthwhile in Riyadh - a traditional house-yard. Often, hostels are placed in them (€ 6-10 for bed), but also a good separate room is not much more expensive.

Often, the price of the hostel when booking does not include urban tax - € 1-3, depending on the place. On the other hand, even in a hostel for € 6, general breakfast is included. In general, unlike discount, Casablanca and a tanger, housing there is cheap and diverse. Paying a little more, you can find yourself in the real Arab luxury.

Photo - Karen, Andreas, Alexander Omarsson

Route Tura: Marrakesh - Warzazat - Papa-Dudeza - Canyons Todra and Dudez - Tingir - Zagora - M'Hamid - Sahara Desert - Erg Scheghaga - M'Hamid - Erg Schegha - Iriki - Fuma Zgid - Ait Bin Huddu - Marrakesh - Ilil - Tazagart - Mouflon - Climbing the Tubkal - Iliel - Essuaire - Marrakesh.

Standing at the highest point of North Africa and the Great Atlas Mountains you can see the natural beauty of the African continent to the horizon itself. The vanity opens the endless valleys and steep slopes, and numbays are roaming good-natured mountain laces, which, with ease of storming atlaste peaks. We invite B. big Adventure According to Morocco, which includes excursions to colorful marrakech, Safari on camels on the dunes of the Great Sugar, archaeological excavations in the mountains M "Doar, Trekking on a high satin and climbing the top of the tube, as well as rest Atlantic Ocean At the resort of Essuaire. In just 13 days you will discover all the paints of Morocco, appreciating the beauty of bright stars in the night desert, having tried the delicious Berber dishes, plunging into the life of the ancient Kasba Ait Bin Haddu and having acquainted with the traditional music of these places in the lively performance.

If you did not come up with this route, we suggest you to create his individual journey Together with our experts.
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Expedition on Morocco with climbing to the tube

Duration of the tour: 13 days / 12 nights.

Tour dates in 2019: on request.

The cost of the tour per person with double placement: from 2100 €. *

Tour program

Day 1. Marrakesh

Arrival in Marrakesh, group collection. Accommodation at the Atlas Asni 4 * Hotel.

On this day, go to the busiest place of the city - jemaa El Fna Square or "the place of severed heads." The attraction has received his harsh name yet X century, when criminals were executed on it. Now in the square you can see merchants souvenirs and spices, water suits in colorful outfits and even snake tamers.

In the evening she reminds a giant restaurant under open sky. Street traders offer to try even the most unusual delicious dishes, on the shelves, baked brains and brains will smoke, boiled snails are laid everywhere and the famous drink-aphrodisiac Hundjal is waiting for their turn.

Meals: independent.

Day 2. Marrakesh

On this day, you will go on a tour of the luxurious Gardens of Marrakesh. Visiting the famous Majorel - Garden of the French artist Jacques Majorel, who later acquired the famous fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent. On its territory was dispelled by the aspiration of the legendary couturier and there was a small monument.

In addition, you inspect the largest in Marrakesh mosque Kutubia, The 69-meter Ancient Minaret of which became the prototype of Seville Hiralda and the Khasan Tower in Rabat. Inspection of exquisite palace Bahia and famous tomb of the Dynasty of Saaditov, as well as residence of the Great Vizier Marrakesh Si Ahmederected at the end of the XIX century. Walk by jemaa El Fna Square.

Food: breakfast and welcome dinner.

Day 3. Marrakesh - Varzazat - Paper Du Dudez

Traveling to the "Gate of the Great South" - in Varzazat, where you are waiting for an excursion to the Atlas film studio. Moving to the city of Paper Du Dudez, accommodation at the hotel Xaluca Dades 4 *. Transfers on this day will be held on the 4x4 SUV.

Food: breakfast and dinner.

Marrakesh, Morocco

Day 4. Paper Du Dades - Canyons Todra and Dudez - Tingir - Zagora

Moving to Tingir in the picturesque mountain road between the canyons of Dadec and Todra. Rate panoramic views on the mountain river and gorge Todra. You will see impressive cliffs with a height of 250 meters, hanging over the river bed.

Minova palm grove tingiryou will storm the pass from which it simply captures the Spirit, it is located between canyon Dudez. and Todra. Moving to plot and on the way draa valleys. As you move forward, dry and lifeless landscapes of rocky desert will be outstretched by a freshness of palm trees sparkling in the sun. This emerald tape of lush vegetation appeared here thanks Dara - Samoa long river Morocco carrying his waters to Zagora.

Accommodation at the hotel Riad Lamane 4 *. Transfers on this day will be held on the all-wheel drive SUV.

Food: breakfast and dinner.

Day 5. Zagora - M'hemid - Sugar Desert - Erg Schegog

A small excursion in Zagora, after - moving to Tamagrut. This is the last oasis that meets the caravans before the beless desert. Following the riverbed of the river drara you will cross one of the most beautiful oasis countries - Palmeria Morocco.

Continued path, arrival M'hemid, where lunch will be organized in local restaurant at 13:00. At this stage of the journey, you will see the first dunes of the Great Sugar - Erg Shomega. Part of the transfers on this day will be held on a all-wheel drive SUV. When you pick up closer to the camp, you can transfer to camels. In the evening you will stop at Bivouac Standard, where you will find a traditional Berber dinner with live music from the local group. Here you will fully feel the unique flavor of life near the largest desert in the world. Do not forget to admire the beautiful night sky, because in Sugar, the stars seem much brighter and closer.

Food: breakfast and dinner.

Day 6. Sugar Desert -M'Hamid - Erg Scheghaga - Iriki - Fuma Zgid - AIT BIN HADDU

In the morning you will go on a trip to the camels on sand dunes to enjoy the beautiful sunrise in the desert. Breakfast in the camp.

One of the brightest and unforgettable moments of your trip will be the intersection of a mildery whitish bottom of a huge dried lake Iriks. You will independently spend archaeological excavations in the Mountains M "Doar in search of fossil fossils of chasongogencies and marine mollusks whose age consists of more than 90 million years.

After a small stop in Iriks, the tour will travel around the picturesque mountain road to the city in Fuma Zgid. This section of the path is one of the parts of Rally Paris - Dakar, where the complex sites of the track alternate with simpler and more calm. Lunch at the local restaurant in the city of Fuma Zgid.

Booking excursion to kasbe Ait Bin Haddu. It is located in one of the most fortified and well-protected villages in the south of Morocco. This KSAR is a bright example of traditional Berber architecture. At the end of the 20th century, it was listed world Heritage UNESCO. The movies "Pearl Nile" and Lawrence Arabian filmed. Transfers on this day will be held on the all-wheel drive SUV. Patches in Riad Ksar Ighnda 4 *.

Food: breakfast.

Traveling on Sahara, Morocco

Day 7.AIT BIN HADDU - Marrakesh - Iliel

On this day, you will be waiting for the move to Ilil on an SUV 4x4. Lunch in Marrakesh, Arrival in Iliel and accommodation at the Dar Assarou Hotel.

Food: breakfast and dinner.

Day 8.Iliel - Tazagart.

The beginning of the track and the transition to the tazagart shelter (time on the way - 5-7 hours). Overnight at an altitude of 2600 meters above sea level.

Day 9.Tazagart - Muflon

Transition to the shelter mouflon, overnight stay.

Food: breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Day 10.Mouflon - Climbing to the Tupkal - Iliel

Early outlet of the camp. On this day you are waiting for climbing - the highest point of the Atlas Mountains. Its height reaches 4167 meters above sea level. Climbing will take about 3-5 hours. After - the descent to Imille and accommodation at the Dar Assarou hotel.

Food: breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Day 11.Iliel - Essuaire

Moving to the Atlantic Ocean, to the resort of Essuaire. Introductional tour of the city and accommodation at the Maison Du Sud Hotel.

Food: breakfast.

Day 12.Essuaire

Free day at the resort, you will be accompanied by the guide.

Food: breakfast.

Day 13. Essuaire - Marrakesh

Transfer to Marrakesh, International Flight.

Food: breakfast.

Mount Tupkal, Morocco

The tour price includes:

• meeting at the airport;
• transfers by bus and SUV 4x4 (5 days);
• welcome dinner (2 day);
• high-class guide services for the time of the entire tour;
• accommodation in hotels category 4 * with breakfasts;
• accommodation in hotels Xaluca, Riad Lamane, Bivouac Chegaga, Dar Asissar with half board (breakfast and dinner);
• dinner in Sugar, accompanied by live music of traditional musicians;
• entry tickets to all the sights of the program;
• two walks on the camels in the desert;
• Orchester Musique in Chegaga;
• accompaniment to the english-speaking guide on the track;
• breakfast, lunch and dinner on the track;

Morocco is one of the most picturesque countries in Africa .

Until the first century, our era, the territory of the state occupied an infinite savanna. However, gradually from the north was off the sugar. She displaced part of the savanna. However, Morocco is the greatest state of North Africa. The country landscape is very diverse. In the south there is sugar. In the north and west, the Mediterranean Coast and the Atlantic Ocean is located. From the southwest to the north-east, the majestic atlas mountains are drawn.

the photo took here:http://album.foto.ru/photo/741587/

The Atlantic Coast has a plain relief. There are many wonderful beaches that are separated by rocks from each other. On the mediterranean coast Mountains prevail.

In these areas there are a large number of arrays of rocks that end near the sea. The strip of the beaches here is clearly already. Between the Mestea (Central Moroccan Plateau) and the Reef Arc is located Plain Garb. Through it proceeds by the Cebu River. In the northeast, Morocco houses the Muluha River Valley. In the West of the country there are coastal fertile plains, such as Abda, Shay and fooling.

Four mountain ranges, including: high satin, anti-cavice, reef and medium atlas, occupy the third part of Morocco. The convex arc formed by them is drawn to the Sahara. In the vicinity of Reef is the end of the arc - the rock of Jebel-Mu-Sa. It is one of the legendary "Hercules Pilots". The second - can be considered in clear weather.

Mountains are relatively young. They appeared about 40 million years ago, when the African slab moved to the north. Then the European Alps and African Atlas rose after the bilateral compression of continental plates. Although earthquakes rarely happen to MoroccoMountains make a seismic situation quite unstable.

On high and medium satin, tourists can do the tracking. For this there are all the conditions.

The rheiff mountain range stretches from the Muluha River Valley to Gibraltar. Wpadina West Cebu (pelvic gate) separates reef from average atlas. Geologists believe that the message of the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea took place earlier on the gate. To date, they connect the northern territory of Morocco with Algeria.

Middle Atlas is also called Moroccan Switzerland. The reason for this is the wonderful ski resorts, forests, lakes, meadows and waterfalls. In the southwestern part of the middle atlas is Marrakesh.

High Atlas is the highest, branched and long mountain chain countries. The highest point of the chain is a jabel-tube - height reaches 4165 meters. She is covered by eternal snow. Jebel-Tubkal is the highest peak of the northern part of the African continent. High satin, like sugar, is a low-holled part of Morocco.

Volcano Jebel-Sirva and Wpadina Uest Sousse separated the high Atlas from Antiats. Jebel-Sirva height is 3304 meters.

Antiatlas is a mountain range. It is characterized by a dry climate and the presence of a large number of oasis. Gradually, the fusion of the southern slopes of the array with the plateau of the DRA. Plateau itself - goes into sugar. The landscape of the desert consists of sand dunes, plains and stony areas. The desert territories extended to Mauritania.

Who would have thought that in Africa you can go to the altitude 3270 meters, do ski sports Or ride on a snowboard. It turns out, B. winter fairy tale, with snow, ski slopes, you can plunge at the top of the Atlas Mountains, which are located near Marrakesh. On the slopes of the mountains are magnificently shacking their paws, ate, and the tops are shrouded in a dazzling beauty with white snow fur coats.

The amazing country of Morocco is the mixture of Eastern traditions, the mosques of Sultanov, the sounds of Islamic Africa and the aroma of spices with the cathedrals and palaces built in European styles.

The borders of the endless hot desert sugar pass almost next to the tops of the Atlas Mountains, which focus on the northwestern part of Africa. And the coastal area of \u200b\u200bthe Atlantic and Mediterranean Seas. - It is great sand beaches and luxurious fashionable hotels, as well as the exotic Middle of the Middle Ages.

The Kingdom of Morocco has become independent in 1956. Since, at one time, the country was the colony of France, it was the French that came with pleasure to Morocco to ride with snowy ath grades.

Here is one of the highest points of the North Africa - Jebel-Tubkal (its height is 4167 m). Therefore, ski resorts of Ifran, dawn and Mishlifan spread in the Atlas Mountains.

Ifran.

Ski resort IFRAN is called Moroccan Switzerland. The resort is located at an altitude of 1665 m. The skiing base and the mountain peak of Hebri with luxurious slopes are located 20 km from Iphrane with luxurious slopes from which you can ride. Unique place, more similar to Scandinavia, with cozy hotels Next to ski slopes, small European houses, with well-kept gearboxes and pure streets.

The city of IFRAN causes delight. You will not stay indifferent if you see blue Lakes And the waterfalls shrouded with rainbow spools that hid among cedar forests.

If we translate from the Berber Languages, "IFRAN", then this means "cave". It turns out that among the Atlas Mountainside, people began to settle from the 16th century. They arrange dugouts and lived there. Many have found a normal dwelling only at the beginning of the 20th century, and the dugouts are used today as a cellar. In 1913, the French made Morocco with their colonies, and the locals were sweating, leaving the mountains.

In the 20th century, Europe was fascinated by the concept of building low-rise cities surrounded by parks. From the beginning of the 30s, IFRAN began to be equipped and gradually turn into the "City -sad". There are no distinctions in it, the buildings were surrounded by squares and parks. Buildings in the city built engineers and architects who participated in the creation of new quarters in Rabat and Casablanca. All buildings of Iphrane are a classic European style. At the same time, such atypical buildings were built in Iphrane, as the Palace of Sultan Mohammedin Ben Yusuf, the building of the Catholic Cathedral and the post office.

The French noted for themselves that while all Morocco extends from the heat, in the mountains of Atlas there is snow, which makes it easy to rest, rushing from the mountains and translate the breath after the scorching sun.

Over time, Ifran turned into a ski resort with houses built in the style of chalets. Cozy, surrounded by parks and flower beds, the Moroccan king chose as a residence. And in 1995, Moroccan University was founded in Iphrane. Business card Iphran is a lion carved from stone.

Climate Iphran

IFRAN is located at an altitude of 1665 m, in the mountains. Therefore, from January to March there is a lot of snow. Winter temperatures can reach -10 * p. IN summer time There are often rains, and the temperature is up to + 28 * s. The entire Atlas Mountain Array extended 800 km. Because from the ocean duli wet wind, snow in the mountains grained.

In addition to skiing, tourists can excellently spend time riding horseback riding, walking on foot and admiring magnificent scenery, or go fishing, to lakes.

In the vicinity of Iphran, a magnificent national park spread out, in which whole colonies of monkeys are freely inhabited. In the valleys of the Atlas Mountains you can see the luxurious, covered with floral rugs meadows. There are volcanic plateau here.

In Iphrane, infrastructure with good ski slopes is perfectly organized. On the slopes of the mountains and in the valleys, many hotels (for every taste and wallet). The resort is included in the list of environmentally friendly cities around the world.

There are many shops, craft shops and boutiques. And, of course - the bazaar, where the fish and vegetables, fruits and spices lie with smooth slides. On the thing market you can purchase everything your soul, including souvenirs.

Pinkyeden

The highest ski resort of Africa is considered to be specified. The city is located at an altitude of 2600 m. Peak Jebel Attar is located at an altitude of 3258 m. There you can get on the lift.

The ski resort of Paramyeden is the largest resort of Morocco. According to rock paintings, with images of hunting scenes, fights and various figures, it can be seen that the first villages here appeared in the 1st century BC.

The resort is specimized - it is five magnificent trails for skiers - professionals. The length of the tracks from 600 to 1000 m. But, there are also tracks for children. Seven lifts are in services. And tourists can live not only in hotels, but also in small houses, such as chalets. They are beautifully accommodated right on the slopes of the mountain massif.

If you descend from the mountains, you can go to the beach or surfing. Fortunately, there is an ocean nearby. Tourists can rent sports equipment and contact instructors that will help master the Ase skiing.

In the sports and wellness center you can visit gym, Massage Salon or Hamam. There is a pool with heated water and solarium. A huge fireplace is located in the cabin. In the evening you can relax in one of the restaurants.

Runs run between the tracks, on which tourists are happy to ride. If you want to do climbing, or it is interesting for you to shoot out onions, go to the mountains on foot, or make a safari on jeeps throughout the mountain range, then you will be happy to be provided with pleasure at the resort.

Weather in Paramyeden

In the foothills of the resort is very hot weather, as it is located in the tropical zone. But, the higher you climb the slopes of the mountains, the more cool. And already at an altitude of 2500 m, the temperature lasts - below 0 * p. Since the end of November, snow cover is installed in the mountains.

In the lower yarus of the slopes you can see a lot of greens, and in the valleys - many colors. On the slopes of the mountains rise cedar and testic forests. At an altitude of 3000 m can be observed covered with luxurious floral carpets, alpine meadows. In oases, located inside the desert, local residents grow doves.

The south of the ski resort of Ukeyeden spread the chic park of the tube and the most high top Atlas - Tubkal (its height is 4100 m).

Mishlifan.

Mishlifan is another resort of Morocco, where you can go on riding on alpine skiing. It is located near the city of Fez, right in the mountains. The resort stretches at an altitude of 2000 m.

To the services of guests - all kinds of winter sports. Here - 5 beautifully equipped tracks, and on the top of the mountains can be climbed on the lift.

In the vicinity of Mislifan is a national park with the most large cedar forests. It is here that the oldest cedar Morocco Guro is growing, it has been about 1000 years old.

What food is served in ski resorts

Moroccan cuisine is the synthesis of various cuisines: Arab, Moorish, Eastern, European. Therefore, many consider Morocco kitchen - one of the most unusual.

The basis of Morocco kitchens, mostly make up vegetable and fruit dishes, seafood and meat dishes. And, of course, a lot of spices. The local markets of the country are willing to provide every greens, vegetables, fish and fruits. Locals are engaged in growing olives whose oil is so high-quality and tasty, which is sent to export.

The pride of Morocco is all sorts of citrus (mandarins, lemons, grapefruits). Moroccan tangerines are considered the most delicious in the world. High in Morocco mountains you will definitely offer them!

Moroccan dishes that serve in the mountains is mainly legumes (lentils, peas of nuts, soybean and beans). And as hot dishes, you can try the meat of the ram, cows, goats or birds.

Everywhere, where possible, barley, wheat and millet grown in Morocco. The entire coast of the ocean is a storehouse of fish products. It is there that the conservative industry of industry is well developed. Therefore, if you, after active day Skiing, wanted to taste the fish - there will be no problems with this.

You certainly should be visited Morocco, on one of ski resorts. In addition to outdoor activities, you will be able to visit the lot of historical places, get unforgettable impressions And perfectly spend each minute of your holiday. We assure you, you will get true pleasure and want to visit Morocco more than once again!