This is the second part of my report on the trip to Georgia by car, talking about traveling by car on the Military Georgian Road with a visit to all of its attractions, and with the first part of the recall.
I woke up exactly on the alarm clock, i.e. in half the fifth morning third dayI joy noting that over the past three days I slept exactly 10.5 hours, and the serpentine in front and in general, the road to Tbilisi is unusual for the plain resident. In the rays of dawn, the upper Lars looked quite differently, unexpectedly from two sides turned out to be quite high, almost sheer cliffs with rare vegetation. River Terek, which thwarts so loudly, was not so terrible for verification as fastened in the dark.
By putting yourself in order, I began to enjoy the alien to my eyes with the views of the surrounding nature. Then he looked at the cars, arguing with each other and noted that I knew perfectly the beginning of the queue, but her tail was lost sight, although I myself was closing another 3.5 hours ago. Thus, it turns out that the distance from me and until the end of the queue turned out to be more than before it. In this regard, the obvious conclusion suggests itself.
It is best to come to the border until midnight - it will allow you to sleep and relax after a long road, and at the same time, you will be not far from the beginning of the congestion.
Passing the border between Russia and Georgia
While I wake up 1.5 hours and enjoyed the surrounding species, my navigator peacefully nozzles in 2 holes in the backseat. Exactly at 6:00 turn came the line, and at 6:05 pm, they hit the "hurry" - they went straight as a column in the opposite, the 40 passed cars went forward. I saw them gradually started sweeping into any gap between the automothes, so he spoiled onto a personal space, I cluttered as close as possible to the standing Mondeo. Part of the "Speastunov" not finding the referees returned back, the part found the cherished shaver, and the part began to hit the gases at any time if someone shall be shared.
My position was quite decent, because I was not so far from the checkpoint, and meters in a hundred from it broke the road Military zill with automatants and a patrol car with a plafone turned on - then they could not drive on them. True, there were pretty persistent drivers, they told them their "respectful" reasons with tears in their eyes, because of which they need to be able to pass forward in urgency, but the entrances were weakly interested. But nevertheless, some stuck them themselves in the flow. Would you like to mind a person with a gun in your hands?
The closer you find yourself to the military truck - the less in front of the illegal immigrants in front of you, and the further - the longer you will listen to the measuring ruine of Terek.
We pretty quickly passed the armed keepers of the border, and I was able to relax - you no longer need to go to the car.
From the moment of the start of the movement before the passage of the Russian PPC passed an hour with a penny, then there was an expectation on a neutral strip, because tourist buses blocked the road, and customs officers needed to check all their clothes. The Georgian border passed with a whistle - literally minutes for 7-10. Everything about everything about everything we left about 2.5 hours, apart from the fact that I for some reason woke up for an hour and a half before the discovery. But everything is empty, all the obstacles are overcome and left behind - incredible discoveries are waiting ahead, new impressions and a fascinating trip!
The first impressions of Georgia
Ohwoo, I just had impressed from the ears, we drove the entire mountainous terrain on the dark, and then the mountains. We decided to stop on the first sighting site after the border guard to translate the spirit, to absorb the first widescreen landscape of Georgia with the mountains and drink energy, because my lack of sleep has already started to give a voice.
At the very beginning, an extremely bad road on which there is no coating at all and apply it, due to frequent villages, do not plan the campaign. Therefore, they will have to suffer and shake at a minimum speed of about 5 km.
Quickly reach Stepanminda, having met along the path of the first roadside cows that walk on themselves and are going to visit the first attraction list - the Church of the Holy Trinity in Gergeneti. I will not repeat and write about how I tried it to storm on my car - all this, and even more, you can read by clicking on the link above. There, as much as possible, I painted all the information known to me about this temple.
Again sowing in his car, we tried to get to another church, but on the other hand Stepanminda, called Ioane Natlismcemeli. However, our attempts were in vain - well, how I could not get out of the desired road, which, in turn, laid out with big stones and jump on them on the sedan, never Ice.
Time was nearing dinner and it was necessary to eat somewhere. We decided to ride the Council of a man who drove us on the top to the temple and went to dine in the restaurant Tsanareti, which is located in the neighboring village, called Arsha.
There we first tried the national Georgian cuisine: I ordered the biggest Khachapuri in Imeretinsky, in which there was so much cheese that at least you put it in my pocket, Lavash, Kupaat, Hinki, Sacebel Sauce and Red Wine Saperavi.
I wanted to try a bit of wine (Georgian traffic rules permiss the level of alcohol in the blood of 0.3), but only I understood it, as I began to lose touch with reality and fall into sleep at the moment when Morgal.
As a result, everything was filled with a wife from food, we ate almost half, and the rest was wrapped with a waitress with me. All this feast cost 55 lari or $ 22 at that time. At first glance, it seems not to cheap, but considering that we have eaten only half half, and in the evening and for tomorrow we worked the second - it turns out quite modestly. I liked the restaurant myself, it's nice, the courtyard offers a beautiful view of the surrounding mountains, a little even visible Kazbek.
Inspection of attractions on the Military Georgian Road
While we enjoyed national Kitchen - A small waterfall was seen on the neighboring mountain (coordinates: 42.630252, 44.597117 or N42 ° 37 "49", E44 ° 35 "50"). We are new here and we want to feel everything and dug, we went to look for a road to him. 30 minutes killed, driving around around the surrounding fields and overlooking small streams, until they did not do that the entrance to it goes straight from our restaurant's threshold. On the car it will not work right there - you will have to go through goat trail on foot of 500, under a very small bias up.
At the waterfall, we found an Englishman who was sitting on the stone and painted the picture. There was still a shepherd, peacefully sleeping in a pose of the embryo, while his impressive herd of mountain goats and cows was walled by a watchdog dog, and those as if they would have dreamed of cigrand from a waterfall.
Oking the surrounding area, go down from the slope and continue our trip by car in Georgia towards Tbilisi. While I rushed between the stones, Aki Mountain Kozlik, my dream dispelled, and I again became a beancocructal one.
Immediately begins a winding road with steep 180 degrees - it becomes better to live, it becomes more fun! It's rather interesting and not scary there, but you begin to face such a phenomenon as a loss of thrust. With each meter, we climb everything higher and higher into the mountains and have to adapt to new rules for switching gear. For example, if in ordinary life I stick 4-mk / h, then, here, at this speed, you will not do it, because The car begins to shake, and it generally ceases to pull, so the upwards and 4th, I stuck already at ~ 70-75 km / h.
Soon we come across another interesting place - the yield of mineral water to the surface (coordinates: 42.531698, 44.471960 or N42 ° 31 "54", E44 ° 28 "19"). As a result of certain chemical processes, the soil, on the path of the laying of mineral water, was covered with a thick layer of absolutely solid yellowish-pinkish.
It's hard to drive past this place, because It is right at the road, there are constantly there are many cars of tourists, and the local population leads a prominent trade, on several small lathes, national heads and other souvenir accessories. If you rise slightly higher, you can detect the source of this phenomenon and even drink it. Going there at all is not slippery, but wet.
Entering a little more mountain serpentine, we get to the sightseeing platform on which the monument "Arch Friendship" is installed. Again, this attraction is described with a photo and a bunch. useful information In a separate article, on the link above.
On the this moment We are at an altitude of more than 2 thousand meters above sea level - surrounding landscapes, with majestic Mountains And the microscopic villages have their footsteps, beautiful. The road begins to twist more and more cool turns On serpentines become the norm. My navigator caught the strongest attack of migraine due to the height difference and is in a half-conscious state, leaving me alone. I swallow caffeine tablet, which helps my eyes open, and the mouth is finally closed.
The Military Georgian road is unrealistic and it is clearly clear when you enter it in Georgia for the first time, the main thing is that with the weather is lucky. During the trip from the upper Lars to Tbilisi, will definitely not be boring.
For me, alpine serpentines are not new - I overcame the Alps at night in almost zero visibility because of the strongest shower with a deafening thunderstorm and most Italy on its iron horse. In general, I go on them absolutely calmly and without pages, but as I did not try to catch up at least one minibus - nothing turned out, the maximum to file the tail on the tail. On, a very big adrenaline injection will receive and remember the prayer forgotten in childhood.
Gradually decrease and approach the Zhinvalian reservoir, on the shore of which is ancient, but well preserved, the Fortress of Ananuri. This is a very interesting place in which it is necessary to stop and wander a bit, and detailed description You can read the link above.
After a walk along the walls of the castle, the action of the tablet begins to gradually weaken. I decided not to drink them more than one day, so we began to pay attention to the shovels of roadside hotels. Time was already the evening - the sun is about to hide behind the mountains, and the Tbilisi remained some hurt 20 minutes drive. But what can you do, we find not the most fade sign with houses without claims on chic and glitter, but looking new and well-groomed, and stop there for the night, making it the last point of our car trip to Georgia on this day. Have you forgotten what for 3 nights I slept only 10.5 hours?
We were allocated a fairly large room with one double bed, a fireplace, a TV, a bathroom and a separate entrance, worth $ 20. We did not have a lari, and we took dollars without any problems. On the territory there was free Wi-Fi and the manager, which practically did not speak Russian, although the woman was already in the years. But the language barrier for us is never a barrier for us, so we joined her for a table in a small cafe on the territory of the hotel. At first she was drinking coffee, which in Georgia is very tasty and served in tiny cups for hobbits.
In parallel with this she told us the story of his life: how she married she was for her husband, how many daughters were born, as their names, who are married and where they live now. Naturally, all this was in the Georgian language, though she tried to insert, those few, Russian words who knew, so the essence of the monologue was caught, but no more. We also told something, I specifically selected the most simple words, as if we were talking to the child, and she, like we, nodded and smiled. Then he offered me a glass of cold-made homemade beer, and the wife of a glass of wine - we did not resist) After a couple, sips seemed to be clearer. But do not think that the Georgian language is at least like Slavic - no. Georgian writing is considered one of the few continued unique writing of the world. Therefore, having missed the glass-other with the Montenegrins - we communicated almost without problems, and with Georgians such a trick will not pass - even 100 grams will not make clarity in their words.
Using the hottest, loosely unseasoned in the restaurant at lunch and talking to the elderly Georgian for life, we went to the side. For the drinks provided to us, it categorically refused to take any fee, arguing that we were the same guests, how can I use it?
Still at the stage of preparation for a trip to Georgia, I met in tourists reviews some curious nuances of local mentality, which are alien to our people, so I was somehow ready for them, but my wife initially looking for a catch everywhere. After all, where it is seen that alcohol is treated in a commercial institution and at the same time they are offended when you suggest it to pay? "This is Georgia", you will have to get used to it, that the guest here is not an empty word and not a dairy cow that should be paid and release the evoids to recruit currency alone. I myself, in the depths of the soul, I hope that this poor period will last as much time as possible and it is time to come soon when everything will come to commercial rails, as it can be observed in the absolute majority tourist countries, especially this is noticeable on black Sea resorts neighboring countries.
I slept hard, like a brown bear in winter, and woke up only hours after 10 on fourth day Our travel to Georgia. Quickly assembled - started in the capital.
Arrival in Tbilisi
Curiosity was examined from the windows of the car Mtzhetu, but not stopping the fly in the outlined point. Already in Tbilisi, we remember that we absolutely do not have local money, so they began to look for the shock with the eyes of the exchanger. Found, arrived, we read the running line, in which it is indicated that they take 2% of the commission - it did not triple us and we went straight to the place of our potential stop in a warm city.
Potential - because I did not book anything and did not negotiate with anyone, only the addresses and contacts interested me. The main selection criterion was:
- Positive reviews.
- Availability of hosts Georgian, i.e. Apartments, hotels and other accommodation, in which you will not intersect with the Georgian owners I was originally not interested.
In Tbilisi, we hoped to settle in the guest house "Tamar" - I read a lot about it for warm words, so I wanted to live there.
We are incredibly lucky, because This morning, just a guest was evicted from the best guesthouse of Guesthouse, which, moreover, was the only free. In addition, we found the hostess literally on the threshold, because She left for business for the whole day. When glading, we are so lucky, we glittered the room in which we all arranged and began to listen that here yes, how. Tamara, which is the name of Tamuna in Georgian, told and showed us on the map where, which is, where it is better to go on the first day, I gave us one plastic card for travel in public transport And one to visit the amusement park. The concept of Guesthouse was for us in a novelty, so we quickly talked the principle of residence in such a place. During the conversation in our old yard, a special decade was entered and announced to all residents that brought homemade Maceni - something average between yoghurt, kefir and prostruck, which costs 1 Lari. Tamuna explained that it was tasty and asked if we had money or she could buy it for her (!) - Too fucking in his pockets, I won and gave my only lari, because my navigator loves every sour milk - let him test for himself, And I need quietly. More Tamuna sold homemade wine from the village and we decided on the occasion of arrival, buy a liter of white and red.
The introductory briefing ended, and she was going to leave, and we are such a "second, but what about money, passports?" But she looked at us, as in the stupid aliens who fell from the Moon, and said that passports are in principle no need to present, but pay for living and wine to align !!! It has already happened to me a template break. How so, our brain categorically denies the possibility of the existence of the reverse sequence of saying "in the morning money - in the evening chairs"! To the question, and what to do, if everyone leaves the gesto, we answered "just cover the door."
In general, here are such things, we were left to stand alone in the hall with twisted to the earth. Tourists from the Russian Federation were sitting on the balcony, who settled yesterday, and somewhere in the city of Tusyli Franzurzhiki, who occupied the remaining room.
Signing in the exchanger without a commission, which we advised us, and buying on the road from street traders of all sorts of fruits, we sat down to celebrate a happy arrival and a successful settlement in a beautiful guest house in Tbilisi.
After everything was eaten and drunk, we pulled a little under the warm sun on the Balcony of Guesthouse, met the guests from Russia, discussed the road to Georgia, thoroughly shook all the bones of the Ossetian traffic police, gathered guts and rushed to stare at Evening Tbilisi.
The rest of my report on independent journey For Georgia by car and reviews about travel, and rest in different parts of the country, read in the following stories:
- Rest in Tbilisi and inspection of various attractions.
- A trip to the Rachu to the village of GEBI - Description of the slave in the mountain river and the climbing to the soda mountain to an abandoned alpine village.
- Journey through Svaneti with a visit to Ushguli.
Some time ago, visited Sunny Georgia. Now, I will try to briefly tell about the trip and impressions, entertainment of the most accurate public for the sake of and the benefits of going to Georgia for. Given the particularly friendly relationship between our countries and the developed tourist exchange, my writing can come in handy to anyone.
(Asobiy Thanks, my life, footagraphyry, Paka ya toured the car).
Entry to Georgia for Russians is currently visa-free, according to a passport of not less than three months on the day of departure from Georgia. To fly by plane from Moscow to Tbilisi costs about 7,000 rubles one way, less than 3 hours in time. We went to Georgia by car, because it was necessary on the way to deliver our own child and a cat to grandmother on historical Motherland. You can enter the Georgia from Russia through the checkpoint " Upper Lars»Located south of Vladikavkaz, about 15 minutes by car. 
(drive up to the border)
Hiking border crossing on this PPC is not provided, and in order to drive to Georgia, a passport and certificate of registration of the car are needed. No inspection coupons are required. On the Russian customs we stood in line about 2.5 hours, opened, closed the trunk, stood in line in the window passport control. Then they drove the road to the Georgian checkpoint on the trash. We spent about 10-15 minutes on it. It was the first blow to the Saakashvili regime in my consciousness. The trunk was not opened and did not go out of the car. With you, just in case, they took a 20-liter full canister with fuel. On the Russian gearbox we were warned that Georgians could before ... to fuck. Due to the lack of inspection, Kanister safely reached Tbilisi. On the Georgian side there is an arrangement of a customs post, something continues to build, weld and dig. In this regard, the road near the post is quite divided, but then it becomes better and remains such before the entrance to the cross paste. The route from Vladika in Tbilisi is called the Military Georgian Dear and passes through the main Caucasian Ridge Through the Cross Pass at an altitude of about 2400 meters. On the pass, it is expensive specifically broken and, almost does not have an asphalt coating - one stones. I was worried about snow and ice on the pass, I crawled my autocorate in winter studded rubber and did it in vain. Despite the end of November, there was no snow on the carriageway. The road, of course, gady, but quite passable. The main thing is not to stick. In the pass, there were cars there and frowned, and often with lises tires. Many Armenian trucks and vases with Ossetian numbers. Actually, the road to the pass, on the pass and after the pass.
(from the border to lift to the pass)
(road on the pass, in fog)
(Road after Gudauri)
Attractions, by the way, begin almost immediately from the border.
Not yet to reach the pass, who wanted can inspect the Grateti monastery, located on the mountain on the right of the road. 
Although ... desires may not coincide with the possibilities. The road to the monastery is the only p ... Zdets. Stony primer, which comes to the monument of Georgian architecture periodically has a bias under 35-40 degrees, passes along the edge of the cliff and has a pit on its entirety and ditches only for a jeep. But we still got there. On the way, the young guy was picked up for the ballast - a Czech tourist in the Peruvian Cap, with a huge backpacker behind his back. He is a pain in this mountain on foot. Maybe in the evening I would have gotten. 
(that very Czech)
The monastery is valid. After 15 minutes, after us, the local Holy Father was drunk on the mountain on the mountain on a super superpowerment SUV, repaying us for the wrong parking. A little about Georgian pops. After 60-70 years, the gray-haired holy fathers have a very aristocratic and affected look. But if the ass is 30-40, it looks like a uniform Mujacheh. Sullen view, black beard from eyes, black row. Rezhaning such a father to camouflage, put on Pokol (shpach-dormant) and give Kalashnikov - Usama Ben Laden next to him will look like a teddy dedmose.
View from the monastery is amazing. 
(Kazbek)
During the descent from Gratets, the next import tourists were selected from the Netherlands. He is a hefty horsepower Fritz, she is a narrow-eyed Japanese. Traveling hitchhiking for the second month. 
A few words about the orientation in the sights of Georgia. The stump is clear, Georgian stokers for an ordinary tourist are not informative. However, the overwhelming majority of road signs, even in remote places are duplicated on Latin. Especially delivers the fact that the path to sights is indicated by very convenient pointers. They are brown-orange, unlike others, with a certain icon corresponding to the type of object (church, source, etc.) and I wish to inform such pointers to complete. That is, the sights in Georgia really at every step. If at first, we turned on all brown pointers, then at the end just tired of doing it.
After the pass, the normal road to Tbilisi itself begins in the Gudauri area. In Gudauri, the words of knowledgeable people continue to develop a unrest ski resort. If the Georgians do a normal road from the border through the pass, I am sure that many Russians will go to ride exactly there, having spoiled on all the "tourist north-caucasian clusters", which will cause the influx of dough on the enemy territory and the outflow of dough from the Russian Federation.
On the way to Tbilisi, in the village of Ananuri, before the impressive bridge through some river 
you can see another historical landmark - the Fortress of Ananuri. 
Next, not reaching Tbilisi, the right of the main route is the ancient capital of Georgia - Mtskheta. On the first day, we did not drive it into it, as it was already dark, but I recommend to go there. We went there on the third day, but I will tell about it now. The following significant attractions are located in Mtskheta: Church of Svetitzhoveli and Samtavro, the ruins of the Bearrsiche fortress, the Shiomghvim monastery. A little closer to Tbilisi, but the Garbarian Monster is located on the mountain on the mountain. 
The territory around Svetitskhoveli is enhanced in tourist purposes - tourist pedestrian walkways, many shops with souvenirs, parking, toilets are paved. By tracks, the omnipresent Japanese with fotics, Bundes and local pilgrims are risen. 
The temple is applied with an impressive fortress wall with all options.
The last Georgian kings, representatives of noble childbirth (such as Bagrations) and other unidentified people, are buried in the temple itself. At the half of the gravestone inscriptions, the labels are made in Russian, native Cyrillic. Next to the temple is the Department of Georgian police, as always glass.
For some fuck we traveled to watch the shio-Mercian monastery. It is 12-15 km. From Mtskheta. The twist of him is at the Samtavro church.
First, the road is more or less decent, but then the asphalt ends and the rag in the crushes begins. 
Twice we were mistaken with an expensive and, at first, rested on the sign, in the biggest road along the abyss on some mountain from a chapel on top, 
then I arrived in military unit And only then found a monastery. 
He is famous for the fact that in him, in the pit like Zindan, voluntarily sat on some holy shio.
If you leave the church of the Samtavro on the left, then you can get to the ruins of the Bibrisikh fortress. 
Inside the fortress there is absolutely nothing to look, but outside the ruins are quite picturesque. On the way to the fortress, you can visit the excavations of some kind of ancient grainbird, paying whether 1 or 2 lari. There is nothing to watch there.
If you leave Mtskheta towards Tbilisi, then a few kilometers there will be a pointer to the Javar Monastery. To him kilometers 6 in the mountain. The road is tolerable, the view of the monastery and from the monastery is awesome. 
A little about orientation.
On the first day it was quite difficult. Georgian swirls we did not understand at all, there were no cards, hemet. When trying to ask the way, the locals were discharged, the locals were discharged with their hands, although they tried to help. As a result, I was paid to the taxi driver, who hesized the way to the hotel, which he knew. Naturally, the hotel was more expensive and worse than we expected.
Taxi in the city in Tbilisi costs 5-7 lari. Taxi drivers have a tendency to sell, as elsewhere. You can spend the night in a hotel for 60 lari for two. If you do not look for anything, then an inexpensive hotel or hostel is very simple. You need to walk through the streets near the fortress of Norikals, sulfur baths, i.e. in the center. There they are full. Clearly on the street leading to the Fortress of Norikala has a hostel "Envoy" - everything you need to throw bones after the day of the hut around the city with a camera. The price for Coycometo is about 15 lari, a block for two 60 lari. Wi-Fi and breakfast are attached.
What to look in Tbilisi. We drove around the city center, visited sulfur baths, Norikal fortresses, walked through Rustaveli Avenue, looked at the city from Mtatsminda Mountain and visited the main temples of the city and, of course, the Georgian cuisine was given in local restaurants.
As for sulfur baths, here they are, by the way, 
then they are in historical centerwhere sulfur hot springs beat out of the ground. These sources and gave the name of the city (Tbili - warm in Georgian). In the 5th century, a specific smell, and even more hot water was delighted by the king of Iberia Vakhtang Gorgasali, whipped in local dense forests, that allegedly ordered to build a city here. Bath, where we were, is a room such as a sauna, but without a steam room, with a swimming pool filled with hot (45 degrees.) Water slightly smelling rotten eggs. Visitors are invited to sit in it before receiving some pleasure, or until you write. An hour seems to cost 30 lari. Instead, the towels were given sheets, but maybe we just did not understand each other.
From Norikals, almost the entire city is clearly visible, including the Saakashvili Palace, the Temple of the Trinity, the Glass Bridge, as well as the construction that I called "the loaning". Local call it also "gaskets". 
(Mustache or gaskets)
In fact, a very useful house. In it in 15 minutes you can get a passport, any help, sell, buy, take off and register anything. Summary antibyurocratic center. No queues, bribes and mudism officials. Very useful building. For children who came for certificates there are organized leisure rooms and many other wise chips, facilitating the life of a simple person.
I think if in Moscow to build a similar center, the economy of the nonresin can collapse. The huge army of lawyers, decals, officials, lawyers, intermediaries, steering, the office on filling and maintaining pieces of paper in instances will die from hunger or comes to rob the people with violence. We do not need such happiness. We have our own Russian path and we stood on it and we will stand.
To be continued.
Now I ask everything about Georgia two iron questions. The first of them - what did rest cost, how much is it worth? That's right, the right question.
In general, it is very easy to calculate the trip to Georgia. It is perfectly represented in the interference by the efforts of enthusiasts from the CIS countries. Lady Google will give a page like:
After examining the Internet, we arrived quite prepared. Made prints with information, routes for walking. It turned out to be even a surprise: we were asked to bring the Svan Caps, I wrote to Svaneti, how much they cost - "35-40 Lari" was the answer, and they are 5 Lari in Tbilisi. Souvenirs in Tbilisi - twice as cheaper than in the resort and the "iconic" attractions like Svetitskhoveli.
A little my impressions.
Trud budget:
1000 rubles - souvenirs that need to take with them, how without it.
213 hryvnia - train Kharkov-Kiev-Kharkov.
150 hryvnia - expenses in Ukraine.
310 dollars - Flight Kiev-Tbilisi-Kiev.
10-15 euros - Duty and Beer at the airport of the city of Mukhin.
20 dollars - transfer to Gudauri one way (back came out for free).
$ 20 - an excursion in Mtskheta-Tbilisi in the middle of the banking (neglect should not be neglected).
$ 30x8 days \u003d 240 dollars - housing with two meals.
197 Lari - ski lifts.
$ 150-200 - costs and souvenirs.
In the picture - Lari. One lari is 18 rubles with a tail. In each lary 100 Tetri. Circle solid lari, lari. Tetri, Tetri. The most difficult thing was to get used to the fact that Lari is not hryvnia. If 10 hryvnia on Russian standards PSHIK, then the same lari is already the amount. And these papers fly apart exactly equally.
Lari course at Tbilisi Airport. 100 rubles - 5.2 lari. In the city a little better, changed 5.35. The difference is at all small.
How much is what? If you eat, then the cheapest and Georgian version - of course, Hinki. By the way, seeing Khinkali and Pelmeni in the English Georgian Georgian menu, I realized that dumplings are a Georgian word! But it is not necessary for the dumplings to go there, but one Hinkalina costs 60 Georgian Tetri - 10 Russian rubles. If you eat 5-7 pieces, you do not want to eat until the morning. In the internet they write: I can eat 10, and for me and 15 is not a question. Damn, yes, at least you eat them twenty. Bush and do not try other Georgian dishes. Here is the menu in one cafe:
Another menu. Illustrated - better. Imagine yourself the character and size of the dish. The latter is important. In doubtful cases, it is better to resort to the help of waiters, although not a panacea. I expected the Adjara Khachapuri- "Boat" will be the size of the palm. In exchange, the product of the format A4 was brought ... Further food was meaningless. But it helps if you drink with a boozer. The cost of kebab is indicated not for 100 grams, but for a portion (grams 300). In general, reboot there - as Nefig do. Twice "burned". I think even those who are going to gastronomic tourism, it is difficult to leave more than 500 rubles in the restaurant for food. It is simply impossible so much.
At the sight of the invoice, fall into a stupor ...
... especially when the total amount of 6 lari is less than it comes out. Honestly, I just then noticed it, already on the photo. We do not need someone else ... In any case, they were compensated by tea. The score is on three. Running, groaned the balls.
What else? Homemade Wine - 10 Lari per liter (bought from the cut, but it poured it more often), Chacha in a cafe - too. Chaqi doses are less than half a liter, in my opinion, do not measure in money at all. I ordered 200 grams - heard in response: "Take half a liter, the money will be the same." The factory, bottle of wine begins from 5 Lari - so-so by the standards of local, according to our standards - normal, wine as wine. Guaranteed wonderful - from 20 lari. Best Georgian Cognac "Saradzhishvili" - 22 Lari for half a liter. Travel around the city on the subway and public transport - 50 Tetri. Mobile Georgian Beeline costs 10 Lari for Sims, 3 on the account, enough for a long time. Products in stores - like us. Dear restaurants in Georgia, probably, there is no, all the same "medium", as in the color menu above, and delicious. Even in Tbilisi on the main Prospect named after Shota Rustaveli, come in any, do not fear.
Everything is in the internet, in one word. I do not know what I wrote all this. It's just one of the two Iron questions. Once you ask - you need to answer. I do not argue, we saw while a little, but what they saw - the same share. In the next post I will answer the second iron question about Georgia.
This part of the report was written online, so there are many fresh emotions here. For example, about how we watched the duel of bulls, how Keshu bit the dogs, about our impressions from Vladikavkaz, the borders of Ossetia and Georgia and from the military-Georgian road. And about how in local guest houses it is customary to lock numbers. Actually, how our trip to Georgia began on the car.
Continuation of the day 6, July 23
After leaving Vladikavkaz, 30 kilometers passed in an hour - it was as much as a tetushkaya house to the border of Russia and Georgia (the most famous autoinage of the Upper Lars). On the border, the tail from cars in length in a kilometer. Found out that: "Yes, not long, we will pass for two hours." Without turn, the border of Russia and Georgia is allowed to passWho in the car sits either a child up to the year (the age is determined by visually strict Ossetian police), or a disabled. The child, the disabled and the car number is photographed and passed to the customs terminal. The terminal in the queue will still have to still - there are no benefits here, they only apply to the "tail" on the entrance.
The border has hours of work - from 5 am and up to 20 pm in Moscow. From the side of Ossetia, the transition is closed at 19 o'clock, but from the Georgian side, the border works around the clock to enter Russia.
We stood in line from those who wish to go to Georgia at 14 o'clock, and the control was held at 16:25. By local standards, they were quickly, usually cost about 4-5 hours.
Between the Ossetian and Georgian checkpoint, the complete chaos is going on - a narrow road, according to which everyone goes, who is so far. Corks that are angry to nervous tick are formed.
But the stamps in Georgian customs get instantly, faster than Finns. But here, in contrast to the Finnish border, the driver and passengers are controlled separately, in different booths.
And finally, we are in Georgia by car. Hamjoba! We are going through the Military Guard and we are going to the first sights - the Church of the Gratet Samebe.
You can travel through the village of Stepantsminda, known as Kazbegi. To the church, most tourists raised on foot (5 km). Local residents They offer to bring to the top (height 2,200 km) on SUVs, but we relatively calmly reached the daster. The church has a tent, graze cows and is already very felt local coloringAlthough Georgians are not so much here. Persons of tourists are internationally smiling by European smiles. It is a pity that clouds run through the sky, and Kazbek is completely hidden by them.
We put the camp right here - already 19 hours and will slow down soon. Dinner, go to bed early and sleep under the upwards of the wind. I must say that there are a lot of "tulatics". Someone starts or completing a trip to Georgia by car in this place, someone is going to rise to the sky ...
In the camp to visit, the exactly in front of our selection, there are two young half-green bull come and suit something like a duel. We observe.
Day 7, July 24
In the morning, the sky is absolutely clean, and Kesha, leaving me to print these lines, runs away to the nearest slide. It has opened itching in all places, and without climbing, even the most primitive, he cannot. Go down - have breakfast and go further. Yesterday's plans to get to Tbilisi on the day of intersection of the border we crossed out - I really do not want to hurry. We will drive as it is eating, because we have no armor, as there is no clear route.
Kesha is returned at 8:00, all those who were visited to those who go to Kazbek. He climbed a slide of 2500 height and did not want to descend. He told about what he said hello to a certain group of tourists in Russian. He was not answered. Greeted in English. Heard in response "Hellow". I. When he moved away from them for three meters, heard purely Hoklyatsky talk. Who does not love anyone? .. We leave this sad topic and go cook breakfast. If today is Wi-Fi, these lines will be published.
Continuation of the day 7.
We are going through the military-Georgian road. You can stop here everywhere, because around the mountain, along the road the mass of the villages, colorful to such an extent that breathing in the goiter intercepts. The promised "periodic road repairs" in fact turns simply by the filmed asphalt, according to which it is very terrible to go. Although everyone goes - both jeeps and puzoterki. Right, diligently circling herds from the heat of cows and small herds of horses. These animals absolutely do not react to any cars, nor on screams or on the piercing "BBB."
Stop do a lot - the churches, monasteries, we visit the village.
At one of these attractions, the Arch of Friendship, the Keshu attack the wild dogs and bite. Almost torn the shirt and the attacker fifth point. Somehow it is not very pleasant to start a trip from such incidents.
You can learn more about the attractions of the Military Georgian Road here:
Unlike dogs, the local population is very friendly. All instantly go into Russian, explain, show and just in the car do not sit down to us.
Lunch we arrange aside from the track on the shore of the Zhinvalsk reservoir opposite the Annauri fortress. AND! If the roads and villages in Georgia are surprised by purity, then there is such a dirt that the hair stands not only on the head, but also on all other parts of the body. Aside with the roads, on organized parking, the "cultural" sights of garbage a lot. It's a shame and sad - after all, the hands of the scattered bottles and packages put their hands all passing by the nation.
We enter the Mtskhetu, settling in the first guest house and go to walk around the city. At the request to issue the key from the room, the hostess takes the chair, sticks it to the door, and she assures with outrage:
- know the problems! NOU !!!
In Mtskhete, all restaurants are closed - strange. But we buy Borjomi for 1.20 lari. And wine bought in advance for 9 lari. At such prices, by the end of the trip, we are coating and mineralized on the ears.
We arrange dinner on the balcony in guest House - Melon, wine and mineral water. And surprised the darkness. Kesha descends to the owners:
- Why not light?
- Listen, Daragoy, Hazda BEZ Light!
But by night, the light gives, and the ability to connect to Wi Fay appears. Neither a local SIM card, nor a paper map of Georgia, we do not yet have - they simply have nowhere to buy. Let's see what will be in Tbilisi. In the meantime ... while the seventh day of travel is finished. What will happen tomorrow? Traveling in Georgia by car just started ...
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All report on days and track trip on Georgia and Armenia
The idea of \u200b\u200ba trip to Georgia was born in our company on simple, in essence, reason: one of us is ethnic Georgians with a bunch of relatives living in Tbilisi and the surrounding area. When a person born and grown in Moscow and on a stereotypical Caucasian, not even distant, so passionately advertises this direction, it is simply impossible to refuse.
Georgia. Alazan Valley
Another question that can motivate the average russian tourist To such a trip? In my opinion, only some echoes of Soviet stories about hospitality and all-Union resistant. Weak arguments, right? Already after visiting Georgia, I am ready to strengthen them with dry facts: it is the most calm and Europeanized country of the Caucasus and Transcaucasus. The most civilized if you want.
Here are very tasty fed. And here is very very inexpensive. I forgot something? Oh yeah, beauty and exotic in Georgia abuse! By the way, watching Mimino's film before making a solution is extremely recommended.
I am writing a separate paragraph for the attentive audience of federal TV channels. Russians are not taken here with the same rejoicing as Finns or Germans, but with a much bigger! I, if that, warned?
Attractive places and routes
What to look in Georgia? Our intuitive installation was like this: Tbilisi, mountain monasteries and sea. If this is formulated more scientificly, there is an interesting nature and culture equally. This is the birthplace of winemaking, one of the most ancient alphabets, one of the cradle of Christianity (the first temples here are dated to the fourth century!), Located on incredible beautiful landswhere almost all attractive relief forms and natural zones. And an important detail - the country is very small, there is no problem to look at a relatively short time.
As the main points of attraction, I would call:
- Tbilisi, the capital and the most colorful city of Georgia;
- Kutaisi with his mountain view and legendary history;
- Batumi with the cool sea and the achievements of modern civilization;
- Alazan Valley with her species and tastings ;
- Mtskheti - ancient capital countries recently renovated ;
- Mountains with interesting surroundings and a house of Comrade Stalin... Well, all that between these wonderful places.
Monasteries, fortresses, churches, caves, all sorts of old stories and legends in Georgia you will find exactly as much as it will be forces to search.
Exist in the country and ski resortsFor example, Gudauri. Here I will not dwell on them in detail, this is a separate topic, requiring in a general story, in my opinion, only the most superficial mention.
The second moment for sophisticated tourists - alpine Georgia, Svanetia. Consider that this is a separate journey that requires capital time and financial costs. Of course, these investments will pay off a hundredfold, but I would like to pour a visit to the Soban Earth to a review trip to Georgia if you plan to spend on it in general less than three weeks.
And third. Ecotourism. Well, that is, the fact that the USSR was called just tourism. Backpacks, tents, cauldrons, stew. In Georgia, this phenomenon is now on the rise, and the dicarce go here, as a rule, foreigners. Places for disembarking and routes themselves are just darkness. Small local travel companies often engaged in the help of ecotourists.
Separate article - "Wine Routes". In Kakheti (especially around the Alazan Valley), it is possible with enviable regularity to see pointers like "Wine Route?", Transparently hinting on the tasting room of a private winery or a wineglass. Any tour suit in Tbilisi will offer you a lot of wine tours.
A common practice among tourists who managed to organize a long-term (over 3 weeks) trip to the Transcaucasia, is the inclusion of Armenia and / or Azerbaijan to its route.
How to get?
I recommend not to wise in this matter, but to use the airport, the only one at today is an adequate way to get into Georgia. In the country, in addition to Tbilisi, two international Airports, in Kutaisi and Batumi. Back in 2013, the number of direct flights from Moscow was disappearing small. Most flights were carried out with a transfer in Kiev or Minsk. Now the situation has become significantly better, therefore, if you take care of the purchase of tickets in advance, you can count on a compact Three-hour flight at a price of no more than twenty thousand rubles in both directions.
Of course, there are enthusiasts who come here to their cars in the only active highway (military-Georgian road) through the North and South Ossetia, but advise this version of the average traveler "Hand does not rise."
Direct railway communication with Russian Federation There is no current, there is a theoretical opportunity to get there by train through Azerbaijan. I doubt the truth that she will interest you.
There is a romantic version of the marine message - a comet velocity boat that runs on the route Sochi-Batumi.
Extremely important moment! If you have been to the territory of Abkhazia or South Ossetia and have a mark on this passport, but they went to these lands, not through Georgia, you may have serious problems with the local border guard (and with the law as a whole). Be careful.
Transportation within the country
Planning a trip to Georgia, we gave our report in what is a medium-sized company consisting of sufficiently lazy, but quite curious city inhabitants, most of which have a driver's license. Yes, and we wanted the trip to not be too expensive.
So, such conditions of the task, as it seemed to us, encourage two main solutions. Car rental or minibus order with driver. We chose the second and never regretted the second. I'll try to clarify. First, it turned out to be more than available at the price (actually, the car rental here is also inexpensive, but the break in price with the machine with the guide is simply negligible). Secondly, in Georgia very specific and in some places dangerous road traffic. On the mountain serpentine, people joyfully go to overtake before the closed turn, in the opposite drive, what is called, "it is necessary and not necessary." Even an experienced driver, accustomed to Russian road realities, will not adapt immediately and will be very tense at first. There are few accidents on the roads in Georgia, but they are usually quite serious. Thirdly, you or your company will be able to drink quietly.
And most importantly - your driver will most likely not only actually drivers, but also a guide that knows the country and sensitive to the wishes of the client. In our case, he took over the reservation of apartments and hostels, and also brought to his father's house in the Kakhetian village, where he demonstrated that there is a real Georgian feast.
In short, individual tourism is the optimal choice for a trip to Georgia. Guides-drivers can help in developing a route, and not only within the country, but also with races in Armenia, Azerbaijan, Turkey. Now private tourockers and individual entrepreneurs engaged in such a matter are very common in Georgia. And everything is very civilized, no "Kidalova" in this area is not.
On the roads of all directions that had to master, fully hitchhiking, both domestic and foreign ones. Apparently, this method of moving in Georgia is quite safe. For comparison, in the Russian North Caucasus I have not seen a single stopper.
Public transport is fully concerned here it is unlikely to succeed. Railways Developed quite badly, and frequent buses are delivered from Tbilisi to Kutaisi and Batumi.
Comfort and issue price
Georgia - inexpensive country with rapidly developing tourist industries. It's nice that this industry is growing here "from below", i.e. from the level of small entrepreneurs, often inventing the original set of services and do not dispake dumping in the very best sense of this word. Moreover, today it is unprofitable to deceive their customers. Business is carried out in Europe transparent, and the attitude towards guests in Caucasian welcome.
The trip will cost very inexpensively, given that the satisfying dinner in a decent institution is unlikely to cost more than 10 euros, and the night in an advantageously located modern guesthouse (with one-time or double placement) will facilitate a wallet for about 20-30 euros per day. By the way, in most guest houses are fed a very dense breakfast. Minivan services Mercedes-Benz Sprinter with an incredible guide-driver cost us 150 euros per day. Make the findings yourself, gentlemen travelers.
useful links
View hotels in different regions Georgia
Hotel selection in Tbilisi
Hotel selection in Batum
Choosing a hotel in Gudauri
Hotel selection in Kazbegi
Choosing a hotel in Kutaisi
Gleisher Bay National Park - Kingdom of glaciers and mountain ranges in Alaska
Jijujigau National Park, China Zzyuchago National Park
International Airport Denver
Devil's symbolism of the Denver
Heidelberg Castle and the biggest wine barrel in the world Heidelberg Castle