Not lazy, especially for those who still do not believe in the dead on the mountain, I found some memories of climbers and documentary evidence of conquest of just one vertex - Everest.
Everest is a modern Calvary. The one who goes there knows - he has a chance not to return. Roulette with mountain. Lucky - not lucky. Not everything depends on you. Hurricane wind, frozen valve on the oxygen balon, improper time calculation, avalanche, exhaustion, etc.
Everest often proves to people that they are mortal. At least the fact that when you climb you see the bodies of those who are already no longer destined to descend.
According to statistics, about 1,500 people rose on the mountain.
Stay there (on different sources) from 120 to 200. Can you imagine?
Here are very indicative statistics until 2002 about died people On the grief (name, nationality, date of death, the place of death, the cause of death, was reached to the top).
Among these 200 people there are those who will always meet new conquerors. On different sources on the northern route there are eight open lying tel.
Among them are two Russians. From the south there is about ten. And if you move left or right ...
I will tell only about the most famous losses:
"Yes, in the mountains there are hundreds of corpses of frozen from the cold and depletion that fell into the abyss." Valery Kuzin.
"Why do you go to Everest?" asked George Mallory.
"Because it is!"
I treat those who believe that Mellory was the first to conquer the top and killed already on the descent. In 1924, the bunch of Mallory-Irving began the assault. The last time they were seen in the binoculars in the cloud break only 150 meters from the vertex. Then the clouds agreed and climbers disappeared.
The riddle of their disappearance, the first Europeans remaining in Sagarmatha, worried many. But to find out what happened to the climber, they took many years.
In 1975, one of the conquerors assured that he saw some body aside from the main path, but did not approach not to lose his strength. It took another twenty years so that in 1999, in the end of the slope from 6 high-rise camp (8290 m) to the West, the expedition came across many bodies who died in the last 5-10 years. Among them found Mallory.
He lay on his stomach, prostrate, as if hugging the mountain, head and hands were enforced into the slope.
On video perfectly can be seen that the climber is broken large and small ber bones. With such a trauma, he could no longer continue the path.
"Turned over - the eyes are closed. So, he died not suddenly: when they are broken, many of them remain open. I did not get down - they burned there."
Irving did not find it, although the binding on the body Mallory suggests that the couple was with each other until the end. The rope was cut with a knife and, perhaps, Irving could move and leaving the comrade, died somewhere below the slope.
In 1934, in 1934, the Tibetan monk was rejected to Everest, the Englishman Wilson, who solved prayers to raise the power of will, sufficient to climb to the top. After unsuccessful attempts to reach the northern saddle, abandoned by the accompanying sherpami, Wilson died from cold and exhaustion. His body, as well as the diary written by him was found by the 1935 expedition.
The famous tragedy, shocking many, occurred in May 1998. Then a married couple died - Sergey Arsenty and Francis Di-Hell.
Sergey Arsentev and Francis DiTefano Arsentev, spending 8,200 m three nights (!), We went to climb and rose to the top 05/22/2008 at 18:15. Climbing is made without the use of oxygen. Thus, Francis became the first American woman and the second in the entire history of a woman who climbed without oxygen.
During the descent, the spouse lost each other. He went down to the camp. She is no.
The next day, five Uzbek climbers went to the top of Francis - she was still alive. Uzbeks could help, but for this refuse to climb. Although one comrade has already ascended, and in this case the expedition is already considered successful.
Sergey met on the descent. They said they saw Francis. He took oxygen balloons and went. But disappeared. Probably blown into a strong wind into a two-kilometer abyss.
The next day there are three other Uzbeks, three sherpa and two of South Africa - 8 people! Suitable for her - she spent the second cold night spent, but still alive! Again everyone pass by - to the top.
"My heart froze when I realized that this man in a red and black suit was alive, but absolutely one at an altitude of 8.5 km, just 350 meters from the top," recalls the British climber. "I'm with Katie, without reflecting, Cooked off the route and tried to do everything possible to save the dying. So ended our expedition, which we prepared for years, missing money from the sponsors ... We didn't immediately manage to get to her, although she lay and close. Move at such a height is the same What to run under water ...
We discovered her, tried to wear a woman, but her muscles were atrophy, she looked like a rag doll and drove all the time: "I am an American. Please do not leave me" ...
We dressed her two hours. My concentration of attention was lost due to the rattling sound permeating to the bones, who ruined the sinister silence, continues his story Woodhall. - I understood: Katie is about and herself will freeze to death. It was necessary to get out from there as soon as possible. I tried to raise Francis and carry it, but it was useless. My vain attempts to save her at risk of Katie. We could not do anything. "
It did not go through the day that I would have thought about Francis. A year later, in 1999, I decided to repeat the attempt to get to the top. We succeeded, but on the way back we were horrified by Francis's body, she lay exactly as we left it, ideally preserved under the influence of low temperatures. No one is overworthy of this end. Cathi and I promised each other to return to Everest again to bury Francis. For the preparation of a new expedition took 8 years. I wrapped Francis in the American flag and put a note from my son. We encountered her body into a break, away from the eye of other climbers. Now she rests with the world. Finally, I was able to do something for her. "
Ian Woodhall.
A year later, Sergei Arsenyev's body was found: "I apologize for the delay in Sergei's photos. We have seen it definitely - I remember the purple fluffy costume. He was in a position as if bows, lying immediately for the Johenovsky" implicitly expressed edge "in the Mallory area of \u200b\u200bapproximateness 27150 feet. I think it is - he. " Jake Norton, participant in the 1999 expedition.
But in the same year there was a case when people remained humans. In the Ukrainian expedition, the guy spent almost there, where the American, a cold night. Its lowered it to the base camp, and then more than 40 people from other expeditions helped. Easy to get rid - four fingers deleted.
"In such extreme situations, everyone has the right to decide: to save or not save a partner ... Above 8000 meters you are fully engaged in yourself and it is quite natural that you do not help another, since you do not have extra strength." Miko Imaai
"It is impossible to afford the luxury of morality at an altitude of more than 8000 meters"
In 1996, a group of climbers from the Japanese University of Fukuoka rose to Everest. Quite nearby their route was three of the disaster of climbers from India - exhausted, styling people got into a high-altitude storm. The Japanese went past. A few hours later, all three died.
Irrenestly recommend reading the article of the Expedition Participant to Everest from the GEO magazine "alone with death." On the greatest catastrophe of the decade on the mountain. About how from the heap of circumstances, 8 people died, including two team commander. Later on the book of the author, the film "Death on Everest" was shot.
The terrible frames of the channel "Discovery" in the TV series "Everest - for the Break of Possible". When the group finds a freezing person, removes it to the camera, but only interested in the name, leaving die alone in an ice cave.
"Trup on the route - good example And a reminder that you need to be more careful on the mountain. But every year the waters are more and more, and according to the statistics of the corpses, it will be added every year. The fact that in normal life is unacceptable on large altitudes Considered as a norm. "Alexander Abramov.
Bodies on the way to the top:
On the trail:
"It is impossible to continue to make ascent, having launched between the corpses, and pretend that it is in the order of things." Alexander Abramov.
Mountains manit man, challenge him. Some of the people call are accepted. But not everyone is returned. There are among the climbers and the rating of the Mountains of the murderers, to conquer which is extremely dangerous.
Annapurna
Location: Nepal. Himalayas.
Height: 8091 m.
Annapurna was conquered first of all 14 eighties. This happened, however, by chance. The group of French climber Maurice Erzog went to conquer another peak - Dhaulagiri, but after the reconnaissance, decided that you could conquer another mountain. She was Annapurna, the northernmost peak of Himalayas. The ascent took place on June 3, 1950. The conquered vertex "took its own" and from the French group. All members of the expedition were frostbite, Mauris Erzogu throughout the descent had to amputate fingers on their hands and legs.
The French group is still lucky. To date, one and a half hundreds of ascents were committed to Annapurna. In the history of the peak conquest, the mortality rate of climbers amounted to 41%, which is extremely much. For comparison - in Everest, this coefficient is only 7.4%. It should be borne in mind that only experienced climbers go to Annapurna, while Everest is trying to conquer everything, who has enough money in the wallet.
The American Extra-Class Ed Vitus climber, who conquered all 14 eight-thousanders, left Annapurnu "for dessert". His impressions of this mountain are interesting: "Annapurna is one greater danger, it is covered with ice. One big piece of ice with ice growths on it. And the whole question is, in which direction the next growth, forward or backwards will be rejected.
Location: Pakistan and China, Karakorum.
Height: 8614 m.
K2, Chochi, or the Dopshang is considered the second difficulty of climbing the vertex on Earth, it is inferior to only the already mentioned Annapurna. Moreover - Choiri is also the second top of height (after Everest), but in terms of the difficulty of conquest, much superior to Jomolungma.
K2 was discovered in 1856, but it was able to conquer it almost across the century, in 1954, the Italian expedition under the leadership of Ardito Dezio. Interestingly, in 1902, the famous occultist and climber Alister Crowley, but the top did not give him the attempt to conquer the mountain
As of mid-2008, 284 people visited the top of this mountain, 66 were killed while trying to climb. A large number of climbers died on the way back. The death rating of this terrible peak is 25%, that is, every fourth of those who tried to conquer K2, died.
In the history of climbing on the Choir, the Russians left a marked track. The route that our climbers managed to overcome August 21, 2007 is considered the most difficult. The Russian group rose on the impaired Western Western Wall before this time. In winter, K2 failed to conquer anyone.
Nangarbat.
Location: Pakistan, Himalayas.
Height: 8125 m.
Nangarbat is called the "mongo killer" and "the absorber of people." This is the most western peak of Himalayas. Nangarbat began to collect his mournful statistics on the first attempt to conquer her - in 1895 she "swallowed" the best climbers of his time British Albert Mammery. Since then, according to statistics for 2011, Nangarbat took the lives of 64 climbers. In total, Nangarbat was able to conquer 263 people. The mortality rate of this vertex is almost 23%. Each fifth climber who daring to challenge the mountain, died.
The reason for such high mortality, people pragmatic are embraced by an extremely unfavorable amount of climatic factors in the area of \u200b\u200bthe mountain - the arid climate at the foot causes a huge difference in temperature. The weather is from this very unpredictable, and deadly avalanches are also frequent.
Recently, unpleasant fame strengthens more human factor"In June last year, the Mountain Mountains, the Taliban militants, were attacked by the Mountaine Mountains. As a result, 10 people died.
Nangarbat, however, magnetically attractive - this mountain has the highest absolute height. Going close to the grief can be seen on a wall of 4, 5 kilometers high.
Kanchenjanga
Location: India, Himalayas.
Height: 8586 m.
The third highest eight-thousandth of the world, the most east of them. The first in 1905, the mountain tried to conquer the already mentioned Alistair Crowley. Did not work out. We conquered Kanchenjangu only after 50 years. In the entire history of the climbing, only 187 people were safely reached. Of these, only 5 were women.
It is believed that Kanchenzhanga is a mountain-woman, so she kills the climbers who daring her to conquer.
The mortality rate of this peak is 22%. Contrary to statistics, which, in the case of all other mounts, seeks to reduce, with Kanchenjanga, on the contrary. Year of the year Mountain takes new lives. By the way, this mountain was remarkably portrayed Nikolai Roerich in the picture with the same name. Thug.
Location: Switzerland, Alps.
Height: 3970 m.
The only Western pinx in our ranking. Despite his seemingly insignificant height, Eyar is considered one of the most deadly peaks of the world. For the first time, Eyar will conquered a person on August 11, 1858. Multiple routes lead to the top of the mountain. The most difficult is the route on the northern wall of Aigar. For the first time it was passed on July 24, 1938. The complexity of the route in an incredibly large height difference and in very unstable weather on the northern slope. During the years of climbing, the peak claimed 64 people.
After graduating from the sevenlet, the tour in the fall of 1928 went to the eighth grade. For him, as for most of us, the transition to the second step was difficult. New teachers in introductory conversations essentially read a departure childhood. The children's years ended, from now on we must learn to think, speak and behave like adults. We were advised to read newspapers and good booksAnd in the newspapers the most boring is the most important thing. Reading will help us become independently thoughtful personalities and "useful members of society." And we wanted to stay a little more children, we dreamed of sports, about adventures. I remember, I was not happy with the idea of \u200b\u200bbecoming an adult.
And the less was in a hurry to say goodbye tour of the tour. The younger in age, he did not heighte the rest in development. Immediately felt that he was alone. At this time, our friendship has developed. I introduced us to the toy boat from a pine chock, and truly brought the common dreams and views, similar impressions. The tour is his Lord's pond. I have a whole barrel with water. But what kind of unmatched barrel! My father was a gardener. In one of his greenhouses stood a huge barrel, where he filled with water canoe. Sometimes there were pink bushes or other plants cooked for landing, but most often only twisted twigs and rods were floating in dark water, and on the bottom she was shaking the mysterious forest of some nameless sprouts. By the baby, I, reaching my nose to the edge of the barrel, often considered the unknown world in the thickness of the water, promptly coming forward whenever the oblique rays of the sun peeling the greenhouse glasses. By forming bizarre combinations, the paints were bludge, at the bottom - as if dark red velvet, along the edges - a poisonous green edge. Between the stems, the blizzard and Tina again again every small one; At the time, the brilliant bubbles rose to the top, as if someone muttered there, deep. And the sun will go, and I see myself in the barrel of myself - blond hair and nose in the freckles, which I was trying to sink the nail.
Becoming a high school student, I also found the road to the forest ponds and was fascinated by their inhabitants. Tritons are like miniature lizards ... There are no time for their ancient parents on the ground, leaving the trace of the car's wider. They lived, fought for existence, but mighty natural disasters They were killed. We and I saw it in a cinecomer " lost World" And we interpreted about dinosaurs, brontosaurs, plesiosaurus and other doping giants. There was no disadvantage in the topics for the conversation, only about themselves we avoided to speak, fearing to issue some kind of weakness. Then youth problems were not discussed on the pages of newspapers and magazines, everyone kept her concerns with him and tried to cope with them.
At school, the tour still remained middle aged. Better than other items was given mathematics. He liked the pure logic of equations, and geometric constructions were reminded by the game. Gradually, he revealed with grammar.
But the passion for natural scaling has cooled. Having met with plants in textbooks for the second stage, he was disappointed. In them, the flowers were not a miracle of creation, but with dull exhibits, grouped in the form of petals and the number of stamens. Plants were cut, analyzed and discarded. The aroma and beauty of the role did not play. It turned out almost the same with zoology, although we still learned about the life of animals. Here the tour was still able to shut up for the belt, hitting the class with his knowledge. But there was no victim. Why? After all, the animals were his skate. And there was no lack in promotion, he quickly became a pet teacher's favorite. He was set as an example, and the tour preferred not to stand out. Often he was made by the cross-partings he did not want. And the class was surprised at the tour in surprise when he began to come to the lessons of natural science, unprepared. But when he began to refuse to respond even to simple questions, we finally realized what was the matter. Only the teacher did not understand anything. However, he all taught the tour and continued to consider it his most capable student for all the years.
But the law of God turned out to be a real stumbling block. The subject was a priest who knew the Bible perfectly, but did not know how to touch the soul of the student. Know to memorize long psalms with all sorts of difficult words and the small catechosis of Luther. For a tour, it was infinitely far from what his father was told. And extremely intricate near the views of the mother to life and evolution.
In general, during these years the school seemed to the tour completely torn off from life. It was hard to force themselves to focus on the lessons; Thoughts just worn far away. Pencil without tired painted on the covers of palm textbooks, straw huts, amazing animals.
Perhaps, physical culture brought more disturbances. Here he is hopelessly behind others. He had no abilities to football, and he did not love him. And when the guys shared on the team, he was remembered for finally.
When we walked to swim on the sea, the tour was sitting on the shore and looked. True, there could be few people with him to compare in the cross, but this sport was not in honor.
It can be seen, the tour was then decided to take on myself, because in secretly a solid preparation began. Houses in the corner of the courtyard Father voked two high collars with a crossbar at the top. He soused the rope for climbing, strengthened the horizontal bar, rings. And soon the tour making such tricks that we were impossible. Tighten on one hand and hanging. What is there on one hand - he could pull up on one finger! At the same time he developed an excerpt. I will hit the knuckles of the fingers about the edge of the table - and at least that, not even wrinkle. We did not really pull repeat this test for him, and when I had to, then we did it much more careful.
At this time, two brothers were settled in one of the neighboring houses, obsessed with sports. In the summer they were engaged in athletics, in winter - skiing. Both were sociable guys, and the tour found their support. They called him in cross and skiing, persuaded even participate in competitions with other guys. But the victory did not worry the tour, it was important for him to exercise to become strong and hardy. If he was tired during a cross, he sat down to stay onto a stone or stump, then fond. And in the footsteps of the beast, he could even leave the distance. The protocol is preserved with the results of two crossings. In one of them, the tour came last. In another, he was the fourth of five participants. And then thanks to the fact that one of the runners got lost on the track.
Parents also noticed that something happens to the guy. And the mother understood: it's time to give him more freedom, it would not have to be tight in the world of adults. She was agreed with the Father that only the benefits of physical exercises.
Heyerdal-senior bought and inherited several estates and "shelters". He loved the house in stress, where many have built a dacha and you could always meet familiar, having fun. Mrs. Alison preferred another house, on the shore of Lake Khurnsho, in the mountains behind Lillehammer. Nature here answered her taste: a lot of air, a huge sky, leaving the distance of long crests with heath and dwarf birch, flickering lakes and a wide plateau, in the blue Dali - wild arrays Yoodunheimen and Rondan with the caps of eternal snow and ice.
Tour was only five years old when he first got to hell. This corner in the mountain wilderness played a big role for him. From year to year, he came there for the summer. Once he was allowed to spend the night with a comrade in a tent near the house. It was a real event for boys. From excitement, they could not sleep. From the distant forest at the bottom came the voices of night birds and animals. The wind shake a tent, and it seemed that someone wakes nearby.
Unforgettable was the first night that the guys spent under her tent without a tent. How well in the forest! People clearly lost something important: they live in boxes, breathe smoke and dust instead of forest and mountain air ...
Once in the summer, a man came to the mountains with a kick behind his shoulders, and he had more read what nothing was. His name was Bjernby. This tanned, tempered resident of the mountains was surprisingly cheerful, despite the transferred adversity. Recently, he lived in the house of a rich timber industry in one of Estenna cities. It turned out that the family broke. Taking the most needed, the ul went to the mountains to do hunting fishery. In the Valley east of Khrunsho, he settled in the old shepherd with an earthy floor. Along the wall between the lower log and the floor was a laz for sheep. In the corner of Shepherny on the stones stood an iron boiler. Here Ula Stranapal. Homemade table and two stools - that's the whole setting. Slept ula round year On a high shelf, covering with sheepskins and blankets.
Here tour and his mother came during one of her long walks. Both were immediately fascinated by this unusual person. For the tour, he was the personification of Tarzan, for Mrs. Alison - a fun fan of adventure with an inexhaustible margin of stories from the life of animals. Ula told about his hunting life - to be, showed how beautiful bugged bugged buggy and cups cut out of the fancy.
And something completely unexpected happened: the fourteen tour was allowed to spend the summer with a dying and help him. The tour saw with his own eyes, as the city man from the cultural family managed to live with nature so much that the forest and mountains became for him the same house as for a hare and moose.
For the first time in the life of the tour truly worked. He went a lot, dragged the cargo, but did not show the mind that he was hard, even when the legs were drowned from fatigue. If they caught the night in the night, then the day was squeezed right there on a flat stone.
Ula Bjerneby taught him to read his traces in the grass, explained that he means a piece of wool sticking to the crust, how to hide from bad weather. Later, the tour has repeatedly said that the science he was held at Björneby, was hardly the most important for his upbringing.
Mountains steel for tour symbol of freedom. Here he spent summer vacation, best time of the year. Highlands was a huge platform for games where neither turn - waiting for adventures. Mountain plateau with their meager soil, where the groves of the White Birosis are inferior to the juniper and spinning to the slope of the dwarf birch, modest flowers and stones with wigs from gray, green, yellow lichen, - it was genuine Norway, His Norway. The sharp peaks in the fleece gave, the forest valleys and the sparkling strip of the river far below, as if in the underground world ... And here it is jumping on the rocks of the goat, they ring the bells of the cow, twist the pichugs and the wind bursts into the fragrance of the colors warmed by the sun. Here it was his kingdom - a secluded mountain farm with surfing walls and turf roofs.
From the Mountain Kingdom, he returned to his city on the banks of Oslofjord every year. Larvik personified autumn and winter, gray days and school strap. Did it be compared with the Nagorem - the world of light, attribution, adventure. I never climbed so high in the mountains, and my city seemed to me differently: Sunny streets are saving, looping, on Kosobor; beech, spruce and pine approach homes; sun-football white beach. And the port is the gate to the big, unknown world. The tour agreed: the latter is really a considerable plus. And he ever uses it - when it starts his journeys, it will go to other people uncharted edges. But everything was already open, I objected. Africa has ceased to be a black continent. Australia has long been applied to the card. Only in the Amazon basin there are still unstasted places, but also you will not call this area completely unknown.
Opening can be not only geographical, "answered the tour. - There are many more riddles in the world, for example, the mystery of Easter Island.
Honestly! He said, I still hear these words to this day.
Of course, we talked about girls. Cinema and illustrated magazines then have not yet taken to dig profits from youth problems and sex issues. The girls were attracted by us, but we were terribly embarrassed, the tour especially, he was afraid, whatever who would not make his interest in them.
Undoubtedly, his mother played here, although she probably did not suspect about it.
What you, a tour is indifferent to the girls, "she said. - It takes only zoology.
I hear it again and again, the tour and in the end decided that it was inconvenient to confess how much more girls occupy than zoology. They were essential creatures from another world. Here is his ideal then: the girl should be beautiful, cardiac and fair. Moreover, natural and simple: it should not paint the lips, make a manicure. It is ridiculous to try to embellish what the nature itself is given.
In matters of faith on him greatly influenced the views of the mother. He allowed that there are things incomprehensible for mind, but priests, rituals, psalms and church services - all this is contrived, artificially. Only in the communion there was something original, though with a shade of sacrifice and cannibals, which he seemed disgusting. He stubbornly, stubbornly spoke about it.
From religion was only one step to the question, which Quietly occupied the thoughts of the tour and prompted him to take a very important decision. The charm of the mountain attorney, half a religious worship of nature and animals of the world, small chagrins that will not be afraid of us, the feeling of loneliness, complex home circumstances - all this made him doubt this that civilization is good for humanity. What is valuable in it? Over time, this problem has become one of the main.
During these years, the tour was often granted to himself. The mother was engaged in their affairs, the father constantly drove, comrades in school were fond of the fact that he was not interested. At this time, he opened my soul. We were convinced that we look at a lot in the same way, while remaining sufficiently unrest for us to make it, about how to argue. I was fond of music. Tour also loved her, but I did not want to study. He was important to the music of the feelings, not an appliances and theory. It was even indifferent to the literature. The poems did not reach him, he considered the novels to the surrogate of life. When the mother advised him to read Gamsun or Undset, he with an applub of his youth objected that he did not want to be influenced by someone else's fiction. It is better to know life yourself, and learn, tightly communicating with nature.
In the ninth grade of the thought of the tour about the contrast between nature and civilization began to develop into the worldview. He constantly spoke of "Return to Nature". The brain of modern people is stuffed to failure not so much by their own observations, how many are the fact that books, newspapers, magazines, radio and cinema are presented. And in the end - the brain overload and limited ability To perception. The man of the uncivilized world loads the brain only by everyday observations, knows only what draws from his own experience and oral legends. Therefore, the mind of such a person is always Oster and is open to the new, his instincts are not muffled, all feelings are alive in it.
Of course, this problem is complex and multifaceted. To understand the shortcomings and vices of civilization, they must be seen from the side. Members of our society themselves can not judge, good or bad what they have been created, for this you need to have something to compare. Civilization is the same as the full house of people who never went out of the door. None of them do not even know what the house looks like in which they live. Someone must decide and get out of the house to tell others what he is. Someone must be first.
For the first time I noticed an indecision in Tour when he spoke about his plans for the future. Maybe he will not stop in natural science. Maybe he is destined to go out of the door and see what no one has seen.
The older the tour became, the clearer it was that something is wrong between her parents. Father was less and less shown at home and finally left Larvik at all. It was said that he was going to relax in stress, but actually came out otherwise. While Ms. Alison lived in the old house, he did not return there anymore. Without the knowledge of Tour, parents agreed to disperse. Both tried to keep it in secret, and did not come to legal divorce, they spared the Son. Of course, the tour was distressed, but everything developed so slowly, so gradually that this outcome was not a blow to him. And after all, he got used to drive around his father all the time. I realized that my father would not return, the tour tried to use every opportunity to see him.
In the year of the end of the school tour in the rooms of the house was quiet, sad and dresses. But just this year was rich in bright and interesting events that helped the tour to cope with loneliness and sadness. We all independently of the performance pretended to celebrate the celebration of the school, this time is short, but stormy flowering, when we turn into red flowers in a pretty colorless city. We had a bunch of affairs. It was necessary to prepare a graduation newspaper, put a school revision. As always, in such cases, the main severity lay on the shoulders of several enthusiasts. Among them were a tour and me, and, of course, this was reflected on our certificate. All academic year we are in a dream and reveal, at the table and in the classroom thought and spoke only about the root. Almost every day gathered at important meetings and I spent almost all the evening in the room of the tour, cozy "Berorog" with bright furniture, next to which a bright red upholstery of the couch was distinguished. In this room, I am the longest in the class - under the influence of temporary breathtaking, it was perpetrators to execute the "dying swan". And here the tour one evening will overcome his timidity and suggested playing a major role - the role of the famous professor of Pickare, who hesitated to heaven in the beer barrel, in the play that he wrote himself. Tour on the stage! Tour in front of a thousand eyes! Incredible.
The world
How many words and hopes, how many songs and those
Mountains will be with us and your name is to stay! -
But we descend, who for a year, who is at all
Because we always have to return.
So leave unnecessary disputes -
I have already proven everything to myself:
Better the mountains can only be mountains,
On which no one has been!
Vladimir Vysotsky "Farewell to Mountains"
What mountains are the highest on earth and what are the most dangerous for ascent?
Let's start our journey with the fact that we will get acquainted with the highest mountain peaks in all parts of the world, which climbers are called as "seven vertices":
1. SAMI high top Peace I. Asia - Mountain (8848 m.)
2. Highest top South America - Mount Akonkagua (6959 m.)
3. The highest mountain North America - Mountain (6194 m.)
4. Highest top Africa - Mountain (5895 m.)
5. Highest top Europe (and Russia) - Mountain (5642 m.)
6. Highest top Antarctica - Massive Vince (4892 m.)
7. Highest top Australia and Oceania - Mount Punchak Jaya (4884 m.)
* To view the illustrations, Mouse over the image and click the left key.
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In total, there are 14 eight-thousandnesses on Earth. It all managed to conquer them only 30 climbers. But attempts do not stop, and annually, rising to the tops, dozens of people die.
Read more with the highest mountain peaks of the world, in addition to these can be found.
1. Mountain ( Jomolungma)
Location:in areas of Mahalangur Himal in Himalayas.
Height: 8848 meters.
E. vest - The highest mountain on earth. At the top of the mountain, the border goes between China and Nepal. The Mountain Array Everest includes the neighboring vertices of Lhotse (8516 m), Nuppze (7861 m) and Changzea (7543 m).
The highest mountain in the world attracts many experienced climbers from around the world. From a technical point of view, the climbing on the standard route does not represent large problems, the most great difficulties in conquering Everest are the lack of oxygen, wind, bad weather and illness.
Mount Everest (Jomolungma) from Tibetan is translated as "Divine Mother of Snow", and from Nepalese as "Mother of the Universe". Mount Everest annually rises by 3-6 mm and shifted to the northeast by 7 cm.
1993 was the safest year on Everest, when 129 people got to the top, and died 8. The most tragious year became 1996, when 98 people conquered the top, and 15 people died (8 of them died on May 11).
Nepalese Sherpa App is a man who rose most often to Everest. He set a record, rising 21 times since 1990 to 2011.
2. Mountain Akonkagua
Location:in the province of Mendoza in Argentina.
Height: 6959 meters.
BUT concagua - the highest peak of South America, located in mining system Andes. Aconcagua consists of a number of glaciers, the most famous of which is the Polish glacier.
The name "Akonkagua" probably means from the Arakan language "On the other side of the Akonkagua River" or from the Language of Kechua "Stone Guard".
From the point of view of the mountaineering, Mount Akonkagua is quite an easy mountain for climbing. It is best to climb along the northern route that does not require additional equipment (ropes, hooks and other things).
Matthew Moniz (Matthew Moniz) was becoming the most young climber who had reached the tops of Akonkagua (Matthew Moniz) on December 16, 2008. The most elderly - 87-year-old Scott Lewis in 2007.
3. Mountain
Location:on Alaska B. National Park Denali.
Height: 6194 meters.
M Ak-Kinley -is the highest vertex in the USA and North America. Previously, McKornley was the highest peak of Russia, before the sale of Alaska USA.
By the ratio of the base to peak, it is the highest mountain on Earth. Local residents call the Mount Denali, which means "great" translated, and the Russians who inhabited Alaska in their time - just " Big Mount" Mountain was renamed "Mac-Kinley" in honor of US President William McKornley.
It is believed that the best period for climbing Mac-Kinley is the period from May to July. At this time, there is a lower atmospheric pressure, less oxygen on top.
4. Mountain
Location:in Tanzania.
Height: 5895 meters.
To Imandjaro -The highest peak of the African continent. Kilimanjaro has volcanic origin and consists of three volcanic cones: Kibiba, Maventi and Shira. Kilimanjaro is a huge stratovalcan, whose age already exceeds a million years. The mountain was formed during the eruption of the volcano, when Lava was erupted in the area of \u200b\u200bthe rift valley.
In the period from 1912 to our days, Kilimanjaro lost more than 85% of his snow. According to the analysis of scientists about 20 years, all the snow Kilimanjaro may melt.
Interesting fact: Every year about 40,000 people are trying to conquer Mount Kilimanjaro. In the whole story, the most young climber rising at Kilimanjaro is the seven-year-old Kitts Boyd (rose to the top 01/21/2008).
5. Mountain
Location:in western Caucasian Gor. On the border of Kabardino-Balkaria and Karachay-Cherkessia.
Height: 5642 meters.
E Plizrus -The highest peak of Europe (and in all of Russia). Is an extluous volcano, and deeply under it is molten magma.
The name "Elbrus" comes from the Iranian word "albour", which means "High Mountain". Elbrus has several titles: Ming Tau ("Eternal Mountain"), Yalbuz ("Mane Snow") and Oshhamakho ("Mount of Happiness").
Elbrus is covered with permanent glacial cover, which is maintained by 22 glaciers. These glaciers feed the Baksan rivers, Kuban and Malka.
Every year, about 15-30 people die for climbing on Elbrus, the main cause of misfortunes are the poor organization of attempts to conquer the vertex, the lack of experience in tourists.
In 1997, the Land Rover Defender SUV rose to the top of Elbrus, thereby establishing the world record Guinness.
6. Mountain - Massif Vince
Location: on the Sentinel Ridge in the mountains Elsuort.
Height: 4892 meters.
M Assistance Vison -The highest peak of Antarctica. Its length is almost 21 km and width 13 km. The array is located at a distance of 1200 km from the southern pole.
The highest peak is Peak Winson, named after Karl Vyson - a member of the US Congress. The first information about Vyson's array appeared in 1958. The first ascent was committed in 1966. And in 2001, the first expedition climbed to the top through Eastern routeThen the vertex height measurements were made using GPS.
7. Mountain Punchak Jaya
Location: in the western part of Papua Province in Indonesia.
Height: 4884 meters.
N Unchak jaya -The highest peak of Australia and Oceania. Punch-jaya (or Pyramid Carsten) is the highest peak of the Krastens Mountain. This vertex is the highest point between Himalayas and Andes.
The vertex of Punchk-Jay was first conquered in 1962 by Austrian climbers, the expedition headed Henrich Garrer (Heinrich Harrer).
Access to the top of the Punch-Jay requires government permission. Since 2006, access to the top is possible only through various travel agencies.
The rise on Punchk-Jay is one of the most difficult rates, since it has the highest technical rating, but not the greatest physical requirements for climbers.
W. To know how difficulty and what victims were conquered by the tops of the mountains, we can, just looking at the statistics. Each peak can tell about his victims, but among the most of the highest mountains The world, is 7 Most dangerous . These are mainly the so-called, "eight-thousandnesses" - peaks of more than 8 thousand meters above sea level, but there are vertices and lower, which collect no less death harvest. Here they are.
1. Mountain Annapurna
Location: Western area of \u200b\u200bNepal. Himalayas.
Height: 8091 meters.
BUT narnapurna I -the highest point of the Alpurna mountain range, its length is 55 km through the main territory Himalayan ridge. Local Mountain names: Cali ("Black", or "terrible"), Durga ("impregnable"), Parvati ("Mountains Daughter"). Annapurna I is the first "eight-year-old", conquered by man and one of the most difficult to climb.
June 3, 1950. French climbers Maurice Erzog and Louis Lashenal conquered this vertex. This ascent is assumed to be the most outstanding achievement in the history of mountaineering.
Preparation and climb have been committed in a very short time - in just one season, and what is most amazing, without the use of oxygen. It should be noted that at an altitude of over 8000 m, the oxygen content in the air is only 30% of the norm, in such conditions a person can be extremely limited time. The descent from the top of Annapurna continued for almost two weeks.
By the end of the expedition, due to the strongest frostbite, both climbers lost all fingers on the legs, and Erzog also almost all her fingers on their hands.
This mountain is the most dangerous vertex, mortality rate among those who daring to conquer it equal to almost 40% .
For comparison - in Everest, this coefficient is only 7.4%. It should be borne in mind that only experienced climbers go to Annapurna, while Everest is trying to conquer everything, who has enough money in the wallet.
The American Extra-class Ed Vitus climber, who conquered all 14 eight-thousandnesses, left Annapurnu "for dessert". His impressions of this mountain are interesting: "Annapurna is one big danger, it is covered with ice. One big piece of ice with ice floors on it. And the whole question is, in which direction the next thigh, forward or backward, will be rejected.
2. Vertex K2 (she is choir or apsert)
Location: Pakistan and China, Karakorum.
Height: 8614 meters.
In Yershina K2 -it has height above sea level 8611 meters and among climbers it is known as one of the most technically complex peaks in the world.
The complexity of the climb of Chochi is inferior in this only Annapurna. Moreover - Choiri is also the second top of height (after Everest), but in terms of the difficulty of conquest, much superior to Jomolungma.
K2 was discovered in 1856, but it was able to conquer it almost across the century, in 1954, the Italian expedition under the leadership of Ardito Dezio. Interestingly, in 1902, an attempt to conquer the mountain, the famous occultist and climber Alistair Crowley, but the peak was not given to him as of mid-2008 at the top of this mountain, there were 284 people, 66 died when he was attempted. A large number of climbers died on the way back.
In the history of climbing on the Choir, the Russians left a marked track. The route that our climbers managed to overcome August 21, 2007 is considered the most difficult. The Russian group rose on the impaired Western Western Wall before this time. In winter, K2 failed to conquer anyone.
Ascension Even on the easiest route requires the intersection of complex glaciers, overcoming steep areas of rocks, overcoming the hinds of icy pillars and blocks, so-called serakov, which are very dangerous and at any time can collapse or collapse. The technical difficulty for climbing this mountain makes it one of the most dangerous in the world.
Mortality travelers trying to conquer the vertex of Choiri is approximately 24%.
3. Mountain Nang Parbat
Location:in the north-west of Himalayas, is their highest northwestern ending. Pakistan.
Height: 8125 meters.
Nang Parbat (Sanskr. "Naked Mountain"), or Diamir (SanskR. "King of Mountains") - the ninth in height of the eight-thousandth of the world. Included in the top of the most dangerous for the ascent of eight-thousanders. For its technical complexity, it is inferior only to the peak K2.
Nanga Parbat is called the "migrant-killer" and "the absorber of people." This is the most western peak of Himalayas. The mountain began to collect his sorrowful statistics on the first attempt to conquer her - in 1895, she "swallowed" the best climbers of his time British Albert Mammery. Since then, according to statistics for 2011, Nangarbat took the lives of 64 climbers. Total Nanga Parbat was able to conquer 263 people. The mortality rate of this vertex is almost 23%.
The reason for such high mortality, people pragmatic explain the extremely unfavorable sum of climatic factors in the area of \u200b\u200bthe mountain - the arid climate at the foot causes a huge difference in temperatures. The weather is from this very unpredictable, and deadly avalanches are also frequent.
On the top of the Nang. Parbat can be hit only along a very narrow mountain range. The southern side of the ridge, the height of which is 4600 m, is the largest mountainside on Earth. This mountain has the highest absolute height. Going close to the grief can be seen on a wall of 4, 5 kilometers high.
4. Mountain Kanchenjanga (Kanchinjung)
Location: India, Himalayas.
Height: 8586 m.
To Anchenjang - The third height of the eight-thousandth of the world. It is also called the "Mount of Five Treasures".
The first in 1905, the mountain tried to conquer Alisheister Crowley. Did not work out. We conquered Kanchenjangu only after 50 years. In the entire history of the climbing, only 187 people were safely reached. Of these, only 5 were women. It is believed that Kanchenzhanga is a mountain-woman, so she kills the climbers who daring her to conquer.
The world practice of mountaineering shows that over time, in many vertices, the mortality rate is reduced, but not in the case of Kanchenjung.
In recent years, accidents accounted for 22% of the number of ascents. The main causes of hazards are avalanche and dangerous meteorological conditions, technical difficulties on the path to the top.
5. Mountain Eyar.
Location: Switzerland, Alps.
Height: 3970 meters.
N. Despite his seemingly minor height, Eyar is considered one of the most deadly peaks of the world. For the first time, Eyar will conquered a person on August 11, 1858. Multiple routes lead to the top of the mountain. The most difficult is the route on the northern wall of Aigar. For the first time it was passed on July 24, 1938. The complexity of the route in an incredibly large height difference and in very unstable weather on the northern slope. During the years of climbing, the peak claimed 64 people.
6. Mountain
Location: in western Europe, Alps
Height: 4810 meters.
M Onblan -the highest peak in Western Europe and in the Alps. The vertex is located on the array of the same name, the length of which is 50 km.
More than 200 square meters. Km Mont Blanc massif is hidden under the ice. Translated Mont Blanc means "White Mountain". Nearby ski resorts Chamonix (France) and Kurchayor (Italy). The first mention of climbing Mont Blanc, Jacques Balma and Dr. Michel Pakkar, dated August 8, 1786.
The path to Mont Blanc, and in all. Mountaineering as a view of sports leisure, the first two Englishman Richard Pisch (researcher Egypt and Turkey) and William Windham (military) were first opened. In 1741, despite the sincere warnings local residents, which is called Mont Blanc "Damned Mountains", they made climbing one of the vertices of the massif - Montutenvier (1913 meters).
Technically, the rise to Mont Blanc does not represent much difficulties, nevertheless, misfortunes occur every year, which is mainly due to the poor organization of expeditions, harsh weather conditions, avalanches.
7. Mountain
Location:on the border between Switzerland and Italy.
Height: 4478 meters.
W. Matterhorn nitality gives his shape in the form of a horns, which as if grows from the surrounding valleys. This vertex has one of the highest mortality rates in the Alps.
The main reasons for this are: difficult technical conditions, a large number of avalanches and stonepads in this area, also complicates the path overcrowding along the routes at the peak hours during the climb season.
- So they say all who visited this country. But it really is that it can still stroke the whole range of sensations, oddly fascinating scenery of the mountains, the purest air and an endless road among the trees and mountain vertices. So I, in order to penetrate the soul of Abkhazia, chose the highest point To visit - Lake Mza. The path is not easy, but completely satisfy the need for natural beauty.
Mountain Forest Path
The trail is clearly visible and only one, therefore it is difficult to get lost. In addition, in some places in the trees, red arrows indicating direction to Lake MZ. Although our dear Joe is insistently convinced to take the conductor for 1000-2000r, for it can be easily lost, and horses for 1000r from the tail, for the path is difficult. On our happiness, we did not find the conductors and went on the route themselves. I will note that from these excursions from organized groups.
Another view of the glacier
The tag of travelers
While you go, it becomes hot. Sometimes it rains, sometimes it looks out the sun. We overcome the fir and sewage forest. The air is incredibly tasty!
By the way, we completely forgot about our expensive friend, he finally found himself in an incredibly wild nature for him. And now his eyes were burning from the splashes of adrenaline, and the legs did not sleep beyond the body seeking. And Aki is a real mountain goat, he poured off the stone on the stone, admiring from the species around and swearing from the endlessness of the trail. And the trail really seemed endless.
It would seem that the next pass is already it, the long-awaited mountain Lake Mza, but climbing on the hill, see the continuation of the trails and meadows, meadows ...
Lord-tourists))
Alpine meadows pleased with the eye in colors
And again the halt
Emerald greens of mountain peaks
The flock of buffaloes peacefully sunbathing under the touches
We now go for more than 3 hours. Forces on the outcome. Glaciers approach quite close. Ahead of the wall of the mountains, somewhere here it. There is no further road. And here's another hillside ... And, oh, miracle! Lake spreaded behind him!
A little more and the lake will appear in front of us)
In that cup there should be a lake
On the approach to the cherished water))
Still a couple of steps!
Lake MZ.
Surrounded by the Crown Mountains, at height 2000m. Above sea level is the mirror of Lake Mza. The snow descends straight to his stroits with the opposite party from us. On the meadow is walking the only cow, linking a buckler. The lake itself is small, about 100 m long and 45 m wide, water temperature is +4. But the depth is worthy - 40 meters.
The wildlife of the Caucasus radiates something magical. You seem to be in another space, untouched by man, cold, calm, emerald green, majestic. This is not a world of people the world of power sources. There is no words to describe the entire gamut of the feelings that you experience, looking around. And even looking at the photos, I understand that we were somewhere not on earth. This is a space of land.
We came first, no one at the path, except for local hunters. And now they could fully enjoy the silence and harmony of the world.
And here is the long-awaited lake MZ
The cow, initially dismisitively running away, feeling something delicious, showed frank arrogance, and thoroughly slipped by the tongue, everything was bad. Here Lavash her very much liked. Burenki had fluffy ears and a large wet nose.
Cow :)
Hare Pipus also photographed in this amazing place
Acquaintance with cow :)
Pipus is very interested in a horned face :)
Having cooled after the rise, we felt that it was not even hot here. And sit and disequorate, but the cold forced to go back to the way back. Even the glacier did not begin to fit, frozen.
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